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c_mario

Aussie Arcade Member
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Everything posted by c_mario

  1. Yes its Broken. The roll pin should hold it in firmly. Should be like the attached photo.
  2. You could use a resistor voltage divider to get whatever voltage you want. The pulses as the cpu drives the matrix would have to be accounted for in software on the Arduino.
  3. Do you have a schematic of the cpu board. The drive outputs are pulled low via the 2n3904 transistors. When a switch is closed the return on connector 10 for the switch row will go low. You can program an arduino to respond to a low or a high. The switch matrix should be the same.
  4. Why can't you detect switch drive from connector 8 and the switch return from connector 10 of the CPU board. If you know the row and column the switch you want to trigger from you have the I/o pins of the arduino respond to the low level on the appropriate row and column. If your really worried you can simply copy the circuit on the cpu board attached to the switch return lines , just a cmos 4011 nand gate and feed the I/o pin of the arduino from that. I have fed a mod board directly from the cpu data bus via a ls374 flip flop to decode the address lines to I/o pins of an arduino before without a problem. The Arduino I/o pins when configured as inputs are high impedance so draw in the order of micro amps, the 2n3904 transistors driving the switch matrix are 200milliamp transistors. I take it the output of the arduino will then drive a mosfet to power whatever your mod is.
  5. Cost wise, less than $200. I have three sets. Its not a commercial product, the programmers ask for a donation to a charity in exchange for a license key. Skill? Well Its hard to say. Its not plug and play, you need some computer skills to be able to upload the firmware to the Controller card. Some ability to fit boards into a machine and wire it up. Personally I had no trouble but I like that sort of stuff. I designed my own shield board ( basically the connector board) but a couple of guys are selling kits out of the US and Europe. The instructions are a little scattered on the VPuniverse web site. Probably the hardest part to understand is the palette switching, i.e. having the colour palette change when certain image frames are displayed. Bally/Williams machines only put out 4 levels of brightness and black to the DMD, so you get 4 colours and black. When you have the palette switching working it selects another set of 4 colours so you can have the display changing colours during play. That's what is in both the you tube videos above. Even without that its cheaper to make one of these than to buy a new standard DMD All in all for the price I think its worth it.
  6. I guess none of you guys have seen this. I have been following a project called Pin2DMD for the last few months which uses RGB led panels to create Colour DMD's for Virtual Pinballs and Real pinballs. I have built two of them and have a third one ready for my WH20. Can do three for less than the price of one LCD color DMD. One of Mine is this link.
  7. These are called Molex KK series connectors. RS components has them. This is a link. .1" is 2.54mm .156" is 3.96mm. They use the truficon crimp connectors, far better than the insulation displacement connectors originally used. http://au.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/pcb-connectors/pcb-connector-housings/?searchTerm=kk+connectors#esid=4294958385&applied-dimensions=4294841899,4294882088&sort-by=Pitch&sort-order=asc I have purchased 100's from there.
  8. Started fixing the hacks before I do the full restore. Picture of new backbox insert. Its not exact i.e. the wire colours are not as manufactured, the catches are aluminium, the hinges are slightly different dimensions and different material than stock. Brazed the heatsink back together. Removed the GI lamp connectors and fitted the correct new ones. Various other plugs and sockets replaced on Power driver board.
  9. Thought I's show some hack jobs I found in a machine I just bought. GI lighting hack. Bridge rectifier Hack, why would you cut the heatsink in half? Sling shots, why would you put these screws in and damage a playfield? Anyone have a clue what they would be for? This machine is riddled with stuff like this. Underneath is full of patched cableing. Someone only had green and white 20Amp wire and patched up connections to switches and eddy sensors with it instead of the doing a proper job with the right wire. And the entire back box lighting insert was missing , replaced with a fluro. Why why why? I am manufacturing that at the moment, not so hard but annoying. Serves me right for buying from photographs. None of this is unrepairable of course, I will bring it back to an acceptable level, in my eyes at least.
  10. There should be as close to Zero Ohms between the LM323K case and ground as your meter will read. Clearly at 12 Ohms its not grounded. So the ground floats high and the output floats high.
  11. Yes that kit from jaycar is what you need. The mica washer is for both heat transfer and insulation. The bushes are for insulation. The point is you want a good earth on the body of the LM323K and you may not have that at the moment. Just a thought.
  12. Hi, You can trim the output of an LM323K Steel by adding some bias voltage to pin 3 i.e. the case. On the Power driver board the case of the LM323K should be ground. If its floating a little high then the output will be high by that amount. The max output of the LM323K should not go above 5.25V according to the manufacturers data sheets. Maybe the case is not grounded properly. The Mica washer should insulate the case from the heat sink and the nylon bushes on the mounting screws should insulate the screws from the heat sink.
  13. Hi, Looking to buy a Tales of the Arabian Nights or a Theatre of Magic or a Pirates of the Caribbean or a Roadshow or a Terminator 2. Don't have to be in good condition. Will consider any condition.
  14. Probably too early to say, I want to test its reliability first see how it goes.
  15. After restoring a few Williams DMD era pinballs I was keen to replace all the Incandecant bulbs with LEDS. The problem with LED's in these machines is widely discussed in many forums. I overcame the Controlled lamps ghosting and flickering issue by changeing the lamp matrix code in the game roms. I have done that on 2 machines STTNG, and Wh20. However the problem with LED's in the GI remained. The way these Williams DMD machines dim the lamps is via phase shifted triac control. Basically the computer sends a trigger pulse to fire each GI strings control Triac. The later in the cycle the trigger occurs the dimmer the lamp. This is fine for slow responding filaments in incandecant lamps but the fast response of an LED and its low current draw make this method unsuitable. Typically in Lamp test mode you see fast flickering of the LED's and depending on the Brightness level set the flickering can be incredibly drastic. Partly because of the fast response and partly because at certain setting's eg Brightness level 6 the Triac trigger pulses occur very early in the 50hz cycle where the current drawn from the LED's is insufficient to maintain the Triac in an on state. Also the inconsistanat nature of the trigger pulses themselves means that any one setting can vary by approximately 1ms , an incandecant lamp wont respond to this, but an LED will. So how to fix this. I was thinking about monitoring the trigger pulses and creating a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) output to control the dimming of the GI LED's. while thinking about this I saw a product a guy produced in the USA. Basically he was doing this method of control. I believe at the time he would not sell outside the USA and from memory it was very expensive. Anyway I decided to build one myself. I designed a PCB, had the bare PCB manufactured and mounted the components. The hardware design and build was the easy part. Getting the software to run correctly on the MicroController was very frustrating, due to problems I mentiond above with the original control circuitry. Anyway I belive I have it working, its installed in my STTNG and I have attached a photo to this post.
  16. Hi, Reset problems are extremely common on WPC era machines. 2 out of 3 machines I have owned have had the problem and I eliminated the issue in both machines. Basically the +5v supply is monitored on the CPU board and causes a power on reset when it drops below a set level, I think maybe 4.7 or so volts. There are many threads on this talking about replacing Capacitors and bridge rectifiers but I tend to agree with boots, Bridges general work or short out. I believe the cure in both my cases was repining the power connectors around the Power driver board and CPU board. Replacing both the header and the associated plug. I always use truficon connectors not the IDC connectors. Its a bit of a fiddly job and if you don't have a solder sucker it will get real messy. Having said that, taking out the power drive board and replacing the connectors is a time consuming job, so you may as well replace the filter caps at the same time, its probably overkill but you you do it once and its done.
  17. Hi, I just had some prototype PCB's done by this place http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/jacohk?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754. You design the pcb in a program like Design spark from RS then send the manufacturing plot files and they produce the board. They were excellent the boards are superb. Mind you this is the first time I have done this so there are probably many such places but this was easy for me.
  18. My first guess would be ball trough switches open circuit. Wire broken off? Check they operate using the switch test menu.
  19. Indiana Jones Main Playfield Protector. This is the product that Precision Gas Springs is selling in Australia. Purchased this protector for a restoration but ended up clear coating the playfield so didn't use it. Don't have the mini playfield one as I did use that piece. It still has the protective backings on it. The two of them cost me $155 last year. So for the main only, I am asking $90.
  20. White Water Upper and main playfields for sale. These are the ones I have shown in the DMD restoration Forum section. Have been airbrushed and clear coated 3 coats 2K automotive clear. Buffed and waxed. No decals used. $500 [ATTACH=CONFIG]84772[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]84768[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]85390[/ATTACH]
  21. Paintmask http://www.gamart.com.au/Products/Item/tabid/100/MASKP79.aspx Actually I used the Avery Blue Sign Mask, I just called the supplier and they said its discontinued. The equivalent is the Aslan 85G spray mask http://www.gamart.com.au/Products/Item/tabid/100/MASKP85.aspx I have a Cameo Silhoutte cutter plotter. I am not convinced its a good machine ,not ever having a machine of this type I bought a cheap one to see what it can do. I got very frustrated trying to get things set up, its finicky getting the blade cutting depth and speed correct for the material you are using. I found the paintmask I got from the link above worked well. However I though mine was 3M mask, I don't see that on there website anymore. - - - Updated - - - Oh bugger, yes. It was late at night.
  22. I don't know, I just clicked the donate link and sent money. - - - Updated - - - Hi Lazarus, I have done a few car repairs before so have some decent spray equipment and Protective gear. I got the airbrushes maybe a year ago, watched some videos, read some articles, practiced on pieces of cardboard etc. Got a plotter cutter and make stencil masks with it and use signwriters painters mask , artists use frisket but I found that left a glue residue. I use Wicked Auto Air Colours, some semi opaques but most solid colours. Use a colour wheel to try to get a starting point. have about 20 Different colours to mix with, then start by counting drops into the Airbrush cup and writing down the formula till I get it right. Dab a bit on the playfield area your trying to match to see how close you are, it wipes right off when you get it straight away. It's taken me hours sometime to match colours. For some reason on the first white water I did I just could not get a yellow match for the mountains. Spent hours mixing but this one maybe 20 minutes and I had a much closer match, in fact with a small fade out I can now not see where in the mountains I have sprayed. Of course before all this I completely scuffed the playfield to get off the shiney finish so the paint can stick, scuff with grey scotchbright and scuffing paste. If there is exposed wood I used the appropriate primer sealer. You can heat cure the Airbrush colours so you can stick down more painters mask virtually straight away to do the next line or small section. The 2 K clear I apply with a gravity feed Auto Spray Gun with a 1.4mm tip. 3 Coats with enough flash off time, I found I don't trust the flash off recommended on the can, I have had solvent pop not waiting long enough, so to be safe now I wait between 20 to 40 minutes between coats depending on the weather. After clear coat I wait a week or two to flat sand and then buff with three stages of compound and buffing wheels, oh yeah I have a Random orbit buffer. Then wax it. Feels like glass and has nice reflections, I try to reflect a fluro on the surface, the straighter reflection the better the finish. Hope that helps.
  23. I have 2 iwata's. Hp-cn and HP-BCn. I prefer the HP-CN. I didn't realise you just had to respond to posts, I thought you had to create 30. - - - Updated - - - Ok just made a donation via paypal.
  24. I want to sell this, I've been a member for 2 years but don't have 30 posts so I cannot put it in for sale section.
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