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Timbo last won the day on June 20

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    Black Knight SoR Pro; Iron Maiden LE; Iron Man VE; Rush LE; The Walking Dead LE

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  1. You'd embrace the drop in noise pollution too when it comes to bikes. Not sure what the hog riders will do. But I can't see the silent bike being a thing because of the Walking Dead. Zombies looking at their phones rather than their surroundings. But hey, I'm all for culling the stupid. 🙂
  2. Yeah you're right. Cars will probably spread the web of connection and end up being roaming wifi hotspots. Sitting at traffic lights data mining/target advertising. Add some dash cams and facial recognition capability. Ugh!
  3. Imagine how much data shifting will be needed if all EV's do this stuff. Mind boggling.
  4. Condolences to all that are affected by this sad news. Very sad. 😞
  5. Was the Heighway version wide body? I remember having a few games when it was in Adelaide for the AC but it was so long ago.
  6. The video link at the bottom showing the police pulling it over is a laugh. They don't seem to have a clue.
  7. It sounds like you are just needing to pull the free end of the wire that creates the contact, out further towards the side edges of the socket. I don't think I've met a wedge LED that doesn't need some manipulation.
  8. And yes, AMD are sending me one as well. 🙂
  9. Hmmmm. I might check in with them. And a tip in the meantime is of course that once into the menu, you can navigate with flipper buttons and start button. Still need the menu button to go back though.
  10. I thought my new Stern pin had non functioning menu buttons. Turns out they needed a ridiculous amount of pressure to work. They are getting better but still crap. A thread on Pinside about new Sterns confirmed it was happening to a lot of Rush and Godzilla pins. Someone posted a fix. Haven't tried it yet but will give it a crack at some point. For everyone with bad service buttons: Three screws (ground strap, and two tiny black metal screws). Take the unit off, unplug. (Plug is on tighter than you think, but it pulls off). Use two small flatblade screwdrivers on the clips of the back side, gently pry the green circuit board up a little without deforming the black plastic clips. Lift the green circuit board up a tiny bit at the connector end by prying with one of your screwdrivers, then insert your screwdriver to the side of the wedge at the end furthest from the connector. Pry the whole circuit board forward until the end clears the black wedge ramp at the end of the circuit board. Continue to gently work the circuit board upward over the various black plastic clips with the screwdrivers and you'll get the green circuit board out. Then the four buttons (Green, Red, Red, Black) will fall onto the floor. Pick them up. Hehe. The circuit board has a translucent button rubber on top of it, gently pull this off, pulling the tiny pegs of translucent rubber out of the circuit board. Clean the circuit board metal contacts that were under the buttons with 99% alcohol. Don't leave any lint or residue on the circuit board when you are done wiping it off. Place the translucent button rubber piece back on the board, aligning the tiny rubber pegs. One by one, gently pull the pegs through the board until it the translucent button rubber rests flat on the circuit board. I plugged the board back into the game at this point, and was amazed at how well the translucent button and green circuit board worked. I didn't have to clean the black surface of the inside of the translucent button cover with alcohol, but if you didn't get good results, now is a good time to pull it apart and clean the circuit board and maybe the black pads again with 99% alcohol. After verifying that the button circuit board was working perfectly, I unplugged it from the pinball, and it was just a matter of loading the colored plastic buttons (Green, Red, Red, Black) back in the holder and popping the circuit board into the holder. Plug the button unit back in. Put the assembled button unit back on the front door with the screws. You now have perfectly working buttons.
  11. Put 1.3 bill up yesterday. What a great game. Huge fun. My bias is showing. I'm DEEPLY in love with this thing. 🙂
  12. For anyone who likes to protect their lane switch area when it involves a ball drop on to it, there's an alternative to Cliffy's (love Cliff's stuff and Mantis for that matter) metal protectors that I've just fitted to my new game. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/06754-lane-rollover-switch-protectors-42mm Made from TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) material similar to a phone case, it's going to have some slightly forgiving qualities with impacts. It's also available in various colours, and they are simple interference fit to stay in place so no adhesive required. I guess that means at some point you can flip them around if they do show signs of wear. I'm really impressed with their scoop protectors and other bits they've built for Rush. It all needs the test of time I guess but they are looking good so far. Go NinjaCamp!
  13. Matthew, can you please add Black Knight SoR Pro and also Rush LE please. TIA. 🙂
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