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Posts posted by spacies

  1. Cheers @Arcade King


    Couple of options @Potostew42 :


    1. add some kerf cuts to the back of the timber. This will allow you to bend it to shape and veneer it. You can fill the kerfing with resin/glue. It'll be strong as! 
    2. next option (as probably easy) would be to make it double thickness and add the bevel with a roundover bit using a router. This is how many control panels on USA machines are made ie Robotron etc. Because your internal corner can be straight you can add a blocking strip to the inside for extra strength. Use a good quality glue such as Titebond II. 


    Hope this helps 🤙


  2. Been cleaning up all the electrical stuff the last couple of days. I made a new base for the transformers, fuses, suitcase etc.  Cleaned and painted the transformers and it is now in the cabinet.



    I am waiting on my package so I can rebuild the suitcase and power supply. I fitted the brackets and stuff in the meantime.

    There are three looms in this machine, one for the AC, one for the game PCB (pictured below) and one for the speakers. And they were all disgusting! Ha ha. I ended up unpicking, cleaning and new cable ties to get them looking like new. Well worth it.







    In my pics ,and all the others I have seen, they just put the negative or the positive connections for the speakers at the front. I guess it depended on who was on the day? So that meant one of the speakers was out of phase. Both the terminals are the same size and there are no coloured dots. I did notice those two little holes which prob mean something. A quick with a battery confirmed that was the positive terminal. Easy way to check it use a 9v battery and run some wires to the speaker leaving one not connected. The tap the wire on  the battery. If the cone moves inwards you are out of phase. If the cone moves outwards you have it connected correctly. 






    Both speakers back in and the earth soldered back on from the AC loom.

    That's a big mission done!





    • Like 7
  3. 1 hour ago, Brad said:

    Awesome job on that paintwork! This will end up looking fantastic and will also retain that old arcade patina in spots which I think in some cases is essential


    Cheers! Paint was still wet in the pics but will dull down to a nice satin when it is dry 🤙

  4. I put the first coat of black on then I went over the whole edge of the cabinet rubbing and brushing glue all the way round where the t-molding fits in. Top to bottom, both sides. Two coats. This will stop it crumbling ever again. I waited for the first coat of black to do this because If I needed to sand anything I wouldn't cut through the primer. It would just wipe off the top coat, and it did 🤙

    When it was dry and super hard I recut the slot for the t-molding. 




    This whole project is about the restoration and trying to preserve the history. It was never about the bling of new decals and fancy powder coating. I wanted to do it justice and also not be too precious with new set of glow-in-the-dark prints. Those prints are $1000NZD. With shipping, import duty, GST, probably $1500.  I want to be able to move it, don't care who plays it and not have to keep it covered so that it doesn't fade.


    So....I masked up the side art with some delicate tape and its BLACK again!!!!









    sacha baron cohen party hard GIF







    • Like 9
  5. 5 hours ago, CandyLand said:

    That cab is one of the most challenging complex cabs to build I have ever seen, and don't think I would ever attempt it again, I can see why you took that approach as a restoration. Epoxy and glass is an acceptable fix IMO and leaves a nice stable base that is strong as hell, although not cheap or fast,...I saw on that other site they were mixing up some unholy mess of "Rondo" aparently made up of resin and bondo and that really shattered my faith in the future of restoration (Doesn't matter now I guess, they banned me anyway) But it would be nice to know the hobby is not whitewashed down to such a point and just left for dead...Anyway, Awesome work, that should be really nice when finished.

    It sure has been fighting me the whole way but I am a pretty resourceful chap with a sweet workshop so I can fight back! Ha ha. I have total faith in the way I have done it and the products I use. I have been doing this stuff a long time. I wouldn't dare mix products. That sounds like a recipe for a headache!

    Like I mentioned above, I could have cut a foot off the bottom off this thing but it was an odd thickness (probably swollen) so I chose to do it this way and result is very good. 


    • Like 1
  6. 10 hours ago, Jason_roberts13 said:

    Well done! I’ve never seen anyone use fibreglass filler on a timber cabinet before but it’s come up really well. I agree it’s easy to mold and hardens tough as a rock 

    Yeah no probs with it keying to wood. I sanded that area with a 40 grit disc so plenty for it to hold on to. It's good stuff for sure.

    • Like 2
  7. Morning 'straya!

    Broke out the big boy Rupes sander and smashed down that glass filler. Added a couple of small bits and blocked it down super flat and rolled on a couple of coats of high fill primer with a small 4" roller. I really love the automotive primers because they go on easy, dry super quick and sand really, really nice!





    Also a couple of coats of black on the base. Oh, forgot to mention that all the ply I have been using is H3.2 treated so if it ever sits somewhere damp again it'll be all good. But lets hope that doesn't happen 🤙


    rad movie GIF








    • Like 9
  8. While this has been happening I sent the board to the USA for repairs. It has been fixed and on the way back. I also purchased parts to rebuild the power supply and the Bally suitcase.





    Hopefully it should arrive in a week or two.


    Meanwhile...the epoxy was good enough to scratch down and I gave it a layer of glass filler over top. It has come up real well 🤙






    That'll sand down real nice and almost ready for some primer! 


    • Like 5
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