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Everything posted by spacies

  1. As per Furball, your machine is faded. Decals are correct.
  2. Been a bit busy but I have completed the suitcase power supply. You probably wouldn't want a kick from these! Ha ha. Replacing the four diodes on top: All sorted! Now for the linear supply 🤙
  3. Cheers @Arcade King Couple of options @Potostew42 : add some kerf cuts to the back of the timber. This will allow you to bend it to shape and veneer it. You can fill the kerfing with resin/glue. It'll be strong as! next option (as probably easy) would be to make it double thickness and add the bevel with a roundover bit using a router. This is how many control panels on USA machines are made ie Robotron etc. Because your internal corner can be straight you can add a blocking strip to the inside for extra strength. Use a good quality glue such as Titebond II. Hope this helps 🤙
  4. No, no. if there is one thing straya thrives on, that is a good drama. You could literally make a spin off of Coronation St just about the straya Pinball scene alone 🤣
  5. I was going to put it in the dish washer but man I don't want any headaches when it rusts or something😂 Re the battery...
  6. Been cleaning up all the electrical stuff the last couple of days. I made a new base for the transformers, fuses, suitcase etc. Cleaned and painted the transformers and it is now in the cabinet. I am waiting on my package so I can rebuild the suitcase and power supply. I fitted the brackets and stuff in the meantime. There are three looms in this machine, one for the AC, one for the game PCB (pictured below) and one for the speakers. And they were all disgusting! Ha ha. I ended up unpicking, cleaning and new cable ties to get them looking like new. Well worth it. In my pics ,and all the others I have seen, they just put the negative or the positive connections for the speakers at the front. I guess it depended on who was on the day? So that meant one of the speakers was out of phase. Both the terminals are the same size and there are no coloured dots. I did notice those two little holes which prob mean something. A quick with a battery confirmed that was the positive terminal. Easy way to check it use a 9v battery and run some wires to the speaker leaving one not connected. The tap the wire on the battery. If the cone moves inwards you are out of phase. If the cone moves outwards you have it connected correctly. Both speakers back in and the earth soldered back on from the AC loom. That's a big mission done!
  7. Nothing will be replaced. It's all staying original 👌
  8. Boards and power supply parts have been shipped ex USA. I'll still continue on with this in the meantime. Still plenty to do! Cleaning, reassembly and.... sorting that wiring! Ack. What a blimmin' mess! Ha ha
  9. Cheers! BlackBerry gin.
  10. Well that sucks. Would've been great to catch up with everyone again and talk some shit but alas... Lets hope things improve for everyone and make this event happen again. I know Leigh and Edy were already working hard behind the scenes, ok, more Edy 🤣, but the wheels were in motion a long time ago. So thanks. Until then... That's for the Bro's 💓
  11. Cheers! Paint was still wet in the pics but will dull down to a nice satin when it is dry 🤙
  12. The key word was 'resourceful'. This means cheap! Ha ha. But thank you 💓
  13. I put the first coat of black on then I went over the whole edge of the cabinet rubbing and brushing glue all the way round where the t-molding fits in. Top to bottom, both sides. Two coats. This will stop it crumbling ever again. I waited for the first coat of black to do this because If I needed to sand anything I wouldn't cut through the primer. It would just wipe off the top coat, and it did 🤙 When it was dry and super hard I recut the slot for the t-molding. This whole project is about the restoration and trying to preserve the history. It was never about the bling of new decals and fancy powder coating. I wanted to do it justice and also not be too precious with new set of glow-in-the-dark prints. Those prints are $1000NZD. With shipping, import duty, GST, probably $1500. I want to be able to move it, don't care who plays it and not have to keep it covered so that it doesn't fade. So....I masked up the side art with some delicate tape and its BLACK again!!!! 🤣
  14. It sure has been fighting me the whole way but I am a pretty resourceful chap with a sweet workshop so I can fight back! Ha ha. I have total faith in the way I have done it and the products I use. I have been doing this stuff a long time. I wouldn't dare mix products. That sounds like a recipe for a headache! Like I mentioned above, I could have cut a foot off the bottom off this thing but it was an odd thickness (probably swollen) so I chose to do it this way and result is very good. Thanks!
  15. Yeah no probs with it keying to wood. I sanded that area with a 40 grit disc so plenty for it to hold on to. It's good stuff for sure.
  16. Very cool! I love that ashtray, ha ha. I want one. Not that I smoke, it's just cool! Good work so far. I know all about that particle board Following.
  17. Morning 'straya! Broke out the big boy Rupes sander and smashed down that glass filler. Added a couple of small bits and blocked it down super flat and rolled on a couple of coats of high fill primer with a small 4" roller. I really love the automotive primers because they go on easy, dry super quick and sand really, really nice! Also a couple of coats of black on the base. Oh, forgot to mention that all the ply I have been using is H3.2 treated so if it ever sits somewhere damp again it'll be all good. But lets hope that doesn't happen 🤙
  18. While this has been happening I sent the board to the USA for repairs. It has been fixed and on the way back. I also purchased parts to rebuild the power supply and the Bally suitcase. Hopefully it should arrive in a week or two. Meanwhile...the epoxy was good enough to scratch down and I gave it a layer of glass filler over top. It has come up real well 🤙 That'll sand down real nice and almost ready for some primer!
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