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Seeburg 222 restoration


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Guys

 

New project, I have just imported a 1958 Seeburg 222 jukebox to restore.

This jukebox plays 160 selections and I believe was the first stereo jukebox.

It arrived yesterday and I hooked in today tearing it down.

I have new sideglasses as well as a new 50Hz gear .

I am on a big learning curve here as this machine needs a lot of work Amp and selector need rebuilding and god knows what else.

All help is appreciated

A few photos attached.

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  • 2 weeks later...

image.jpg.9f6904359591c9d4c9124f3ee556c3cc.jpgimage.jpg.972d107b71fc265f91682c7df5d4577a.jpgimage.jpg.1e63f27d9e705b03e98e6e5d8ef91248.jpgimage.jpg.0e7970f775e8acf6e057a63f9ae392b2.jpgA quick update frame has been patched with fiberglass filler and sanded smooth ready for painting.

Anyone have any good scans of the interior paperwork?

Removing the anti theft screw from the cash box was a bitch but got there with the use of a dremel

I have purchased a as new 500W stepdown isolation transformer and still compiling a list of parts required.

Slow and steady but getting there.

Hopefully have the box painted in the next few weeks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update on what progress has been made, selector has been dismantled cleaned and reassembled after the case had been primed/painted.

Keyboard has been dismantled and keys polished, I'm yet to decide whether to bleach/whiten the keys.

I kinda like the vintage look.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

A few more pics

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update

 

Quick update the correct rubber castor wheels have been installed, broken stainless trim around kick plate has been extended tig welded and polished came up a treat.

All of the aluminium extrusion framing has been disassembled polished and reassembled.

All of the sheet metal has been Hammertone painted decals installed and clear coated.

a few pics below.

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  • 1 month later...

Haven't updated the thread for a while, progressing well on the jukebox all aluminium extrusions have had scratches removed and polished out.

Back and top cover plates panel beated and re sprayed then reinstalled very happy with the results.

New speaker cloth has been installed and new side glasses installed it's really starting to come together and once again look like a jukebox.

There was a time when you could purchase wireless remote volume and record reject add on control boxes from the USA.

I tracked down the guy who made them and he had no plans to make more of them, when all else fails ask google.

Found a site where a guy made exactly what I wanted using Arduino, bought all the parts only to find that as parts had been superseded since the original build the code he wrote was no longer suitable.

So I then spent two days learning how to code, it uses a stepper motor turning a remote pot, this will connect in the remote volume control input.

Original build had one digital output to a relay for the record reject, I used a dual relay so I could use one relay to switch to an iPod input at a later date.

Has a software clutch so the torque generated is not enough to damage the pot at either end of travel.

Mounted on a piece of Perspex it looks the goods.

Should recieve parts back from chromers soon so should be able to push forward with the restoration.

Two Perspex channel signs have had scratches polished out using 800 and the 1200 wet paper then polished.

Faded paint was removed ready for airbrushing.

A few pics attached

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys i need a bit of advice i purchased new picture classification inserts from the USA but the quality of the reproduction is crap (picture on far right).

i have scanned and cleaned up the originals using photoshop but i am having trouble finding where or how to have them printed.

They are on translucent white plastic about the same thickness as a business card.

There is a flourescent light behind which lights them up.

Any advice appreciated

Example of one picture showing what i mean, the colour is washed out as i did not copy all the layers on the middle picture.

Untitled-11.thumb.jpg.c58ff5d722102ecabd2e5b6f421435ec.jpg

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Ok no one can help with ideas on printing the plastic classifications so I'll move along, I started receiving the re chromed parts back from chroming started reassembling the buttons into the control panel really glad I block sanded the buttons as they really pop up against the new chrome.

One of the pics shows the button before and after being block sanded and polished.

Hope you enjoy the update

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Guys i need a bit of advice i purchased new picture classification inserts from the USA but the quality of the reproduction is crap (picture on far right).

i have scanned and cleaned up the originals using photoshop but i am having trouble finding where or how to have them printed.

They are on translucent white plastic about the same thickness as a business card.

There is a flourescent light behind which lights them up.

Any advice appreciated

Example of one picture showing what i mean, the colour is washed out as i did not copy all the layers on the middle picture.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]85262[/ATTACH]

 

Would having them printed on translite plastic, like a pinball backglass work?

I had one of these made up for me for a home made pokie I made. Looked good.

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Would having them printed on translite plastic, like a pinball backglass work?

I had one of these made up for me for a home made pokie I made. Looked good.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]85430[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]85432[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks mate yes I have thought about the translite route but this is more like a plastic business card no glass or Perspex cover , I may contact a few printers who print the plastic cards and see if they can do it.

Cheers

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  • 5 months later...

I had to pick the worst Amp/TSU for my first recap, the amp alone has about 80 capacitors.

All the selenium rectifiers have also been replaced I was advised to replace the 6x4 rectifier with a couple of diodes and a resistor on the TSU as this seems to be a common failure that takes out the expensive power transformer.

I know it's expensive as I had to replace mine.:x

The TSU transformer primary and secondaries have had inline fuses added for extra protection.

Powered unit up using a dim bulb Tester with no faults evident.

I have not tested the amp yet but it is looking surprisingly promising so far.

Man this was a bitch to recap never again:x

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  • 4 weeks later...

Any airbrush artists out there??

I need to have the two channel plastis signs painted and I am definitely not an artist:)

I had an airbrush artist have a go but he had a lot of trouble obtaining a crisp line between the white and red/green and in the end he gave up.

The white writing is in an engraved channel.

I also have a spare plastic that can be used to practice on.

I'm willing to pay a fair price for the work.

It's pretty much right in your face on the jukebox so must be a good job.

The photos show a black background which is behind the plastics.

First picture is the plastics cleaned ready to go, the rest are of an overseas restoration just for ideas.

More than happy to answer any questions or take any advice.

Thanks

John

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I've spent the last few days swapping the 60hz gear and worm drive to a new 50 hz set.

Absolute bitch of a job but done now, I couldnt find any information on the Internet so will add a few pictures, will hopefully help others.

The brake cam needs to be removed to allow the gear shaft to move enough to allow the old gear (pins removed)to be removed and new gear and worm drive to be installed.

When removing the roll pin from the brake cam the shaft needs to be rotated at the end or the roll pin will bottom out on the casing.

The rest is pretty straight forward.

Cheers

 

- - - Updated - - -

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Edited by faza01
Doubled up
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I remember this job on my Seeburg C. Not an easy task.

 

I bend the shaft slightly while removing the roller pins. It took days of gently tapping the shaft to get it straight.

 

Well done.

 

Gordo

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