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Roxbury

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  1. Yeah Sean is a great guy and very helpful. I will attempt a full strip and rebuild for the steering mech which will no doubt need some new gears purchased from one of the sellers of the repro gears.
  2. I will use these files available from Taggsta https://outrun86.wordpress.com/1-91-outrun-cabinet-art/
  3. Have been slowly doing work on cabinet. Hoping that in the next month or so I might be ready to order new sideart before starting to rebuild the internals.
  4. Ok I know I am resurrecting a very old thread here. I bought some of this thick black chalkboard vinyl way back, and until recently have been able to buy from a local supplier. My usual supplier no longer sells vinyls, and another place I have purchased from thinks that the thick chalkboard vinyl with high tack adhesive is not available any more? Can anybody who has recently purchased thick blackboard vinyl please let me know where you got it from? I can easily find thin (more like a film) vinyl, not much thicker than cheap contact. If I need to I will try some thin stuff, but really want the thick stuff - it is great to use! Hopefully someone out there knows of a source!
  5. Interesting as I have seen that before. In this sort of case, what is the best thing to do prevent loss of horizontal pulses?
  6. The AC wires were joined, and one of them had no other connections on it so I assume it was the dead one. For a cab like this I might even put a brand new supply in, even if the other one appears to be working. Any thoughts on sweet spot for quality/ cost? I have looked before and find conflicting opinions on whats is good and what isn't, also confusing to me which branded supplies are fake. *Edit* So after having a look, it seems the best quality option would be a Meanwell from https://www.power-supplies-australia.com.au/ Although I have noticed Meanwell supplies seem to be cheaper at Mouser eg https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...OnI5FJmg%3D%3D I would assume Mouser supplies would not be fake?
  7. Time to start restoration of my upright Outrun cabinet! First up we have the teardown, the next thing to concentrate on will be cabinet repairs. The good news is I have a working PCB set with thanks to Womble. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1961-768x1024.jpg So here it is, in its current state from the front. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1960-768x1024.jpg I haven’t cleaned it up at all since I got it, but it was stored outside but undercover by previous owner. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1963-1024x768.jpg Lots of dirt and cobwebs in here http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1964-1024x768.jpg Coin box covered in rust. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1965-1024x768.jpg Coinbox removed. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1966-1024x768.jpg Front coin mech plate removed. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1967-1024x768.jpg Steering & force feedback. Needs a complete clean, with some parts needing replacement. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1968-768x1024.jpg Removed front bezel and steering unit http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1969-768x1024.jpg Removed glass and bezel http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1970-1024x768.jpg The screws holding the accelerator pedal in are rusted. Couldn’t get them to budge using WD40 or giving them a good knock. I managed to fit a hacksaw blade under the pedal so I could saw through the bolts. Later I will remove the remainder of the bolts. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1971-768x1024.jpg Tada! rusted bolts removed. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1973-1024x768.jpg Lots of dirt. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1974-1024x768.jpg In the rear panel, terminal block connecting some mains voltages. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1975-768x1024.jpg Removed the mains lead cage. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1978-1024x768.jpg Next up the 2 power supplies will be removed. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1979-1024x768.jpg Not sure why there were 2, unless one died and it was left in. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1980-1024x768.jpg See the transformer blocks. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1982-1024x768.jpg Power distributor in front section. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1983-1024x768.jpg Lots of spider webs http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1984-1024x768.jpg Found $2.20 and a cigarette butt under the transformer mount.See the wooden panel that the wheels are mounted on has bent badly. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1985-1024x768.jpg Wooden bezel mount. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1986-1024x768.jpg Fan. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1987-1024x768.jpg Fan removed. Very dirty, probably not going to work well even if it was cleaned thoroughly. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1988-1024x768.jpg Removed the tube & frame. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1989-1024x768.jpg Fluro tube and speakers http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1990-1024x768.jpg Speakers removed http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1991-1024x768.jpg Amp PCB. http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1992-1024x768.jpg Amp PCB removed http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1993-1024x768.jpg Rear panel external showing how filthy it is. Looks like the black laminate was painted black at some stage http://www.tehkella.net/retro/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_1994-1024x768.jpg More lovely spiderwebs on the back of the rear panel. Now everything is apart, I can start cleaning up the cab. After I have removed the filth, I will make some repairs to the cab before working on it bit by bit to have a good looking cab one day!
  8. Took a punt on a gumtree ad for what was described as a Sony Pro Feel 27 monitor. Pictures were terrible, but it was in actual fact a Sony 2730QM I was expecting maybe a thrashed ex studio monitor with many thousands of hours of use, which I would still probably buy anyway. To my surprise, the PVM looked brand new. The seller said they bought it brand new back in the day, as his father did a little bit of video editing back in the day. He reckons it did about 100 hours of work, was used for watching dvds for a little bit and sat in storage for a long time. So I picked it up, complete with speakers and Sony stand. Really happy with this one!
  9. I have recently set up a Jomac serviced Orion 12Pin chassis with a Mitsubuishi tube. The picture output is so good I am going to put it into my Neo 4 slot MVS cab. Before I swap too many things around I wanted to confirm what the AC voltage input range is for the Orion chassis. Will it cope with anything between 100V - 120V? Or does it need to be a bit more precise? I have included a pic of the chassis below. While we are at it I am curious about these three pins on the chassis. Seems you can select one of the three. What do they do?
  10. Just sharing pics of my completed LAI Space Invaders restore. Restore logs are on my blog at http://www.tehkella.net/retro/?cat=27 What may be of interest is that I used a Jamma adapter for the Midway L Shape board which converts the B+W signal to RGB and has several options to simulate the colour overlay. Also has built in POR circuit. http://pcbjunkie.net/index.php/jamma...jamma-adapter/
  11. Well have now finished most things I want to do with this Archimedes project. Only other thing I want to do is make a joystick adapter, although this will require a bit more research and planning. It's not so simple! I have to say, as a long term Amiga lover the Acorn 3000 is a very nice computer, with some really good capabilities. I was really shocked to find the soundtrack in Lemmings (one of my favourite Amiga games ever) is noticeably better on the A3000. There are some great games out there for it, so I am really happy to have this up and running nicely now. Last pic is of Pacmania running - a very nice arcade conversion. If the A3000 had become more mainstream for games, there could be some real quality conversions on it.
  12. The floppy drive that came withe this Archimedes doesn't work properly. When inserting disks, they don't really click into place. It feels like something in the mechanism isn't working fully. Rather than trying to fix this, I have gone for a Gotek USB floppy emulator solution. I have opted to use the HXC firmware which costs 12 euro to purchase. However I understand that the FlashFloppy firware will also work on the A3000 if you want a free option. To use a Gotek you will need a longer floppy drive ribbon cable, and to extend the floppy drive power cable to reach. As far as I know there isn't a floppy image manager program available for the A3000. The HXC firmware has an OSD option where it will overlay the screen using one of the RGB outputs to display the selected file name and list of files on the USB stick. This requires a couple of wires to be soldered to the goteck for sync and video signal, recommend using the green signal. it is best to use probe hooks to clip onto a leg or IC to pick up the signal rather than soldering directly to the computer motherboard. I chose to pull the green signal from D14, just behind the RGB connector. I pulled the C sync from L24 pin 1 or 2. There is a jumper over pin 1 & 2 of LK 24. I removed the jumper, hooked onto the base of one of the pins then placed the jumper back on. When pressing one of the Gotek buttons the screen overlay comes on, allowing you to see what files you are cycling through. When you stop pressing the buttons, the image goes away after a few seconds. Good thing about the Gotek and the A3000 is that it fits in perfectly, and even the screw holes line up.
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