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Kaizen

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Kaizen last won the day on May 21 2021

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  • State
    Brisbane, QLD
  • Machines in your collection
    LAI Space Invaders x 2
    NZ Taito Space Invaders Part II
    US Taito Space Invaders Trimline
    Williams Defender Cocktail
    Taito Cocktail w/ Galaxian Board
    LAI Cocktail w/ Phoenix Board
    Generic Woodgrain Lowboy w/ Gallag Board
    Score Pong Cocktail Cabinet
    World Rally Driving Cabinet
    Silver Strike Bowling Cabinet (MAME)
    Vision Cocktail w/ 19"LCD (MAME)

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  1. PCB assembled , tested and working (need to wait for Altronics to get more S-Video sockets in stock). I made mods to the PCB and case so I don't need to reorder another PCB
  2. PCB arrived and I populated one row which tested fine. I stuffed up some hole sizes and centres that are needed to mount it to the case I have for it so I'll tweak the PCB and do another order when I order some other PCB's.
  3. Hi all, been a while since my last post. I'm currently working on a 16 into 2 S-Video switcher for the next Kong Off. Basically it'll take the video output from 16 DK cabinets (Converted into S-Video format) from a board similar to a MrVideo (RGBS to S-Video converter) and be switched from a mobile phone or tablet via a Wi-Fi Arduino. Put simply I can choose from any 2 cabinets out of 16 and stream them on a twitch feed showing two cabinets. I found a project on GitHub that switches 8 relays in this manner, have setup and tested it on the 8 relay board available from Jaycar. I've also tested it on a prototype board I made that switches 4 S-Video inputs into 2. I've modified the html page that is used for the switching interface on the phone/tablet to two sets of 16 switches (left side channel 'A' and right for channel 'B') but that's the limit of my coding abilities. One of the biggest issues I need to tackle to get the 16 to 2 version working is that the Arduino has limited output pins and I need to switch 32 relays (I plan to use four Shift Register IC's which only require three output pins) but will need to get the code written for both Uno and ESP (wifi part of the Uno). The switching PCB has 16 rows of 2 relays, the first relay turns an input ON and the second switches it between output 'A' or 'B'. There's also other things that need to be written into the code e.g.: 1 - Starting up with cab 1 to output 'A' and cab 2 to output 'B'. 2 - Nulling an input to channel 'B' if it's already switched to channel 'A' and vice versa. Any thoughts on how to go about this? The bare 16 into 2 PCB will arrive in a couple of days and I'll build and confirm it works before moving ahead.
  4. I had a local sheetmetal company fabricate ten sets of the two brackets that hold the marquee. I picked them up today and did a test fit and they fit perfectly. I could get them powder coated but it's easier to just paint them in satin black enamel.
  5. A little more progress today. Started with the base, fitted levelers and rear wheels. Assembled most of the cab.
  6. I think Jimmy has enough cabs for AKO IV. This build is for someone else so it's up to them if they want to offer it for use. I'm building a second one for myself though but not sure if they'll be finished before the end of July. I got the second coat on today, two more to go.
  7. I have a couple of Donkey Kong cabinets to build and thought I'd document the process. This is the artwork package I've put together, still a work in progress. Donkey Kong UP Artwork I already had a template from previous builds so I used that to make the side panels, the paint is water based enamel from Bunnings. I got the first coat on today, there will be 3-4 coats applied with each panel sanded between coats. The paint is applied with a spray gun and the paint is thinned with a 1:1 ratio of paint to water. All the other panels have been CNC cut to save time and effort, the plans were based on the ones on classicarcadecabinets.com I've done a run of 10 of the marquee brackets that have been reproduced by a local sheetmetal company. I'm also currently waiting for a quote to come back to reproduce the original Nintendo Coin door.
  8. I've been through various cabinet maker supplier/supplies (T moulding) search term but no luck.
  9. Just seeing if anyone knows of a source for brown T-moulding here in Australia. There's some in the US on Ebay but shipping is 4x the cost for 20' of T-moulding. There's a caravan supply company that has some to suit 16mm board but it's lipped which is not suitable for the DK Cabaret cabinet which I need it for. Edit: On second thought I suppose I can just trim the edges off.
  10. I took the .dxf file from classicarcadecabinets.com and tweaked it using Corel Draw. I already had a template for the sides.
  11. That's be awesome mate, I'm home most weekends if that works or can pick up from you if easier.
  12. This was done by Al's Plastics in Moorooka, He asked for $60 for a 2400 x 1200 sheet but I paid him $100 per sheet as I felt it was worth it and he's always looking after me with perspex. I supplied the wood and cut file.
  13. CNC cut panels were picked up today, one set for standard DK and one set for DK Cabaret. When I did the last DK builds the speaker panels took the most time and were a right pain in the arse to get right, these came out perfectly. CNC saves so much time and effort (and MDF dust).
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