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buttersoft

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  1. The red wire from the H-Stat will push in and then release. Or push and then twist and release. The white wire with the anode cap on it is fixed to the H-stat, do not attempt to push, twist or remove it. Interesting that it was the H-stat after all. If it's causing the expansion, and if you say so then it probably is, the horizontal static convergence drift must be too small/fast to see? Sadly the H-stat's are unobtainum now. Your best bet is to find someone with a broken and non-repairable set who is willing to sell you the part. Before that though, run the set with the back off, in the dark. As dark as you can get it, so you can observe any corona glow around the H-stat and the anode cap both before, during and after the problem occurs. Also, the H-stat has four wires coming out the back, which come through the voltage dividers and are used for HV sensing. These feed to the D-10 connector on the bottom edge of the main D board. There are two wires and two screens which last are at ground potential, i think, but be safe and don't presume this is correct. You should measure the voltage between the two main wires on pins 1 and 3 of that connector. It should be stable (mine sits at about 4.6VDC). You can do this from the back, no need to fold the D board out. Make sure you have the lights on for this bit, as there are really dangerous voltages all over the D-board. Typically, when the H-stat's fail, you can either see corona, or that voltage between the two wires isn't stable. It would be nice to know if you find anything for future reference 🙂 but also, if there is corona, you might be able to coat the block in silcone sealant and stop it. If there is corona around the anode cap, then the cap needs cleaning and some dielectric grease like spark-plug grease. Just be careful removing the anode cap, as it is a coaxial connection with a tiny spring inside the very center (which should be attached to the anode, but if you break it off you will be in trouble). EDIT: As far a broken H-stat's go, this one is as mild as i've ever heard about. The set still seems pretty useable.
  2. Hi Moulder, in your PM you talk about vertical expansion - I assume you mean horizontal like above? The Hstat should not really affect vertical size, and especially not without the horizontal convergence exploding. It does horizontal static convergence, which i was thinking might look like horizontal expansion. But with there being no problem with convergence i would look elsewhere first. Unless @soyl can weigh in, I would again recommend hitting the horizontal deflection circuit with some freeze spray. Wait until the set warms up, just when the problem starts occurring, and see what happens when you spray different components in the circuit (probably not the caps, if you just changed them). This will need to be done while the set is live, with the D-board folded out as far as it can go. Make sure to be very careful as there are dangerous voltages on the back of that board, and inside the set as well. And remember that you're not trying to freeze anything solid, you don't want the insulation to flake off any windings or the plastic caps to start cracking. One or two second bursts should do it. And no, i haven't seen this particular issue before.
  3. Sorry for the late reply, this is a pretty slow board most of the time. The phenomenon you describe is not intended behaviour. I'm not 100% certain what would be causing it. I want to guess and say it's the h-stat, but that would normally affect the convergence and not just the screen size. If you put up a grid pattern when the problem occurs, is the convergence along the left and right edges ok, or are Red and Blue moving relative to each other or to Green? If the convergence is stable, and it's just the whole image moving in and out, i would warm the set up and then try some electronics freeze spray on the horizontal circuit, see if you can hit whatever is causing the issue and make it do something. Make sure to be super careful inside a running CRT, if you go that far! EDIT: if freezing bits of the horizontal circuit doesn't work, i would try the power supply. EDIT 2: you say one problem left. So this problem was happening before the recap, right?
  4. the beam current limit on new universal chassis is a balancing act, too. For example, if you dial the red gain as high as it can go, it will sap energy from the blue and green.
  5. I would not have pegged that as vertical collapse, but shows what i know. I'd be keen to hear what jomac says the issue was, if he gives you any idea 🙂
  6. Personally i wouldn't use jaycar electrolytics if you paid me. Jaycar are fine for some stuff, but for this to last you want good quality caps. Remember to mark every single electrolytic cap on the board, like with red marker, so that you know what you've replaced. You should really recap the lot, but no harm in doing things in batches either. Just remember to desolder and resolder one cap at a time, check polarity before removing, make sure the silkscreen matches the orientation, then replace. A few photos can help too. No guarantee this will fix things, of course, but that's how it goes.
  7. I have a friend with a 25" tube reading 1.2 Ohms horizontal. Is that a normal/possible reading for a 25" tube? It's in a world rally cabinet, but not sure if it's original chassis and tube. Model of the tube is A59KPR84X02
  8. More love required 😁 I totally agree with one of the top comments on this vid; Crosscode is the gold standard for puzzles in games, while itself not even being a puzzle game.
  9. So this one will work in-circuit no matter what? What problems are there with one like the old Silicon Chip/Dick Smith kit-build ones? Or even any of those $6 generic component testers from Aliexpress that report ESR and Capacitance? Are they not accurate enough? Or just don't work in-circuit?
  10. It really does just work out of the box. PLA prints fast and flawlessly, but i've mostly moved to ABS, which i was never brave enough to try with the Ender. I was getting a little warping with the stock profiles for ABS on the X1-C, so went to 270 hotend 105 bed temps. I also have a blanket over the top. Well, a queen bed sheet folded up so it's over the left/right sides and top with the AMS on top of that. I can then use the chamber fan to regulate the temp and keep the chamber anywhere from about 50-65 degrees. Not quite ideal for ABS but very close. I haven't had a single first layer failure, and only some extreme overhangs, basically printing on air, that would sometimes spaghetti out. The machine has recovered an ABS print from a blackout lasting 90minutes, and i can only just tell which layer the problem was. Yeah, i hear you about the bed size tho. And it gets encroached upon further by the calibration markers and the filament purge for the lidar. But the X1-C was working so well i tried a few longer ABS prints diagonally across the bed and they all came out flawlessly. TBQH i'd be happy to try things angled off the bed to get a top-corner to bottom-corner length of, what, 43cm? I was looking at the Creality K1 and K1 Max but the reviews came back kinda wishy washy at best. I really wanted a machine to move up from PLA, and i'm loving the results so far - just like the reviews say. I need to try some PA for sure. Shame that Nylon-CF only comes in black though. And that i'm not a millionaire so i can actually buy it, but hey 🙂 And OMG Orca-slicer! Amazing, I love it. Powerful, easy to use, connects to the printer wirelessly from your PC so you can just send prints. And you can monitor the camera and change all the settings remotely. And from the Bambu phone app too. Jesus, this is turning into a commercial, but i really am happy with the purchase so far 🙂 I know all that can be done with Klipper and Octoprint etc., but like i said, i wanted a machine to make stuff, not to keep tinkering with and spending money on. My only gripe is that the chamber lighting is a bit dim, but that's a $20 fix...
  11. late to the party but wanted to say nice build 🙂 I was looking at a Voron, but i was kinda sick of the fact that about 50% of my time was tinkering with my Ender 3 to get it to run right, keep the bed level, actually get a first layer down, etc. The vorons are awesome, but I wasn't after another printer that was a hobby in itself, I'm weak and just wanted a tool to make things. I went the X1-C +AMS route about a month ago and it's awesome. The damn thing just prints, though it still needs a little TLC and cleaning but it's night and day compared to the Ender. And my wireless extender arrived today so I can finally ditch the SD cards altogether 🙂
  12. I would suggest following Howard's tutorial to the letter to see if you can get the outputs up to begin with. Use the game he does, because it's known working. Make sure you have the outputs set to windows (is it?) under OSD_Outputs in mame,ini or whichever ini is relevant. If that fails, try running MAME as admin as well as MH - that was one thing i had to do. Or even the reverse.
  13. Ok, if lowering the contrast/brightness doesn't change anything, it won't be the same issue i had with R702. I haven't used composite much on these sets, but from memory they're not amazing that way. There was a bit of bleed and dot-crawl. I don't think i've used S-video at all with these - the PVM-2730 has revisions with and without it, and i have both, but haven't needed to use it.
  14. Hey, Fritomaster, welcome to the forum! I saw your post, bookmarked it so i wouldn't forget to reply, forgot, and rediscovered it now 🙂 To me that issue you're having with your 2530 looks slightly different, though it may be related. Are you connecting to the set via composite video? Does the issue get a little better when you turn the brightness/contrast down? I would still check R702 on the neckboard. With the set powered down, remove connector C-7 from the neckboard, then meter R702. It should read as 470k. Be careful inside the CRT! Any CRT can be dangerous. This set has a bleeder cap, i believe, that draws down the HV after the power is off, but it may not be in good condition. And i can tell you from experience that the capacitors on the neckboard will hold charge either way. So either wait a few hours after powering down, or run your discharge tool or screwdriver over the electrolyitc caps on there.
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