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outrun86

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  1. Outrun doesn’t have a suicide chip, it pre dates SEGA using them. Turbo OutRun PCB did have a Toshiba suicide chip though. You should be able to find my LAI Outrun restore within these pages somewhere that might help. Mine was in much worse condition and now looks factory (or better) The Aussie cab didn’t have a stripe but I added one. ArcadeArtShop in the UK does some of the art you can purchase. I bought a new CP from Giz10p, I don’t think anywhere else does them. Shipping was much cheaper back then. Google SmartPi or find the site on Facebook. You can buy a replacement plug and play PCB that will run OutRun l, Turbo OutRun, OutRunners, Chase HQ and a few other sprite scaler games. It’s very reliable too. Unfortunately the OutRun PCB is prone to failing so it’s something worth looking into if you like. Good luck with the restore, it’s a wonderful machine!
  2. Hi all, looking for a gear that’s got 90 degree movement and also the plate if available. Probably used on other Sega cabs. thanks for any help / leads. sean.
  3. Thanks for the kind words and support and education with the chassis, I’ve learnt a few things along the way which is great. Thanks very much. I will post a final picture when the seat is finished 🙂
  4. Thanks dude. That’s great reassurance 👍
  5. I have a Japanese cab and there is an Earth label at the back. The green mains AC wire is connected to this inside the cab. Should I also put a wire from this thread stud to the FG on the power supply? Currently the power supply has nothing to FG and it was changed by a previous owner. thanks for any clarification.
  6. Exciting update!! I did my first ever chassis swap as the flyback on the original chassis had a crack. There were no service part flybacks so @Jomacsaved the day and sent me a universal replacement so the CRT tubes lives to see another day. Really impressed with the picture I’ve got out of it and the game is looking great. here’s some pics and a movie. IMG_4078.MOV IMG_4082.MOV
  7. Lots of activity over the last few weeks. Here’s some pictures to show progress. The steering and coin mech were fitted. (Coin mech had to be re-wired after being hacked with a universal coin counter). Current status. Topper was recreated and then Noodle Shirt printed it for me. Monitor is currently ready for a chassis swap. I picked up a chassis replacement from @Jomac and I am installing it this weekend.
  8. BastichB put a lot of time into it. I’ve started to watch it and it looks really well put together. Yes! I did make a quick video clip for it too Based on growing up in the UK arcade scene. Great that people are enjoying it!
  9. @Pinballer I was of about 5 who did the QA testing on pre production boards so it was cheaper I think. $400 including the board and Pi. I think due to shortages he will be just selling the PCB and you supply the Pi4b. if you are on UKVAC or the OutRun enthusiast Facebook page Marty will soon be adding the price and first batch. You need to register your name with him to get on the list. Thank you, much appreciated
  10. I don’t think I shared final finished photos of my OutRun restore. Here it is fully complete. It’s now running a PCB called SMARTIPI that plugs into the OutRun harness and plays OutRun, Canonball, Power Drift and Turbo OutRun. It took a couple of years to fully finish this restore but it was worth it in the end.
  11. Cabinet - By far the worst area with this machine was the bottom of the cabinet woodwork. It looks to of been sitting in water at some point and the ply was just crumbling away. Lower area metal parts like the castors (only 2 of 4 were still present) were also suffering from water damage and had deep rust issues. Many of the fixing bolts and screw just snapped off when it started disassembly. The base looked to have housed mice or rats at one stage as there was a bed of chewed timber, several holes with teeth marks and a nasty smell of what I can only guess as rodent p*ss. I decided it would be best to totally remove and replace these panels instead of chopping off bad areas. Man, SEGA really fix these things together well. Staples, Screws, hidden dowels and strong wood glue took some serious battling with a mallet, screwdriver and chisel at times. The first panel to come off was the base and eventually both sides. Key here was to not damage the front 3 panels and keep them intact. I went with an MDF base and laminated boards for the sides and used what was left of the original parts for templates. The side panels had to have a groove cut so it butted up to the angled front panels. I reinforced the front as some of the ply had fallen off. The base will sit within a groove with these three panels. Cutting the angled grooves. I screwed in a temporary piece of timber to keep the circular saw accurate. Several days of gluing and assembly then took place and the cabinet was finally rot free!! The whole lower cab area was sanded down, filled and primed. All lower black area is now painted. I’ll be back with further updates in the future.
  12. Here’s the after progress of the Steering handle work. All parts were striped down, degreased and cleaned. Parts were repainted and then reassembled and greased. Some wiring had exposed metal so these were cut, soldered and heat shrinked. The bumpers that had melted were replaced with rubber blocks that were drilled and then cut to size. The plastic cover was cleaned, polished and the start button striped and cleaned too. Handles were scrubbed with a toothbrush and warm soapy water. The brake lever was missing and the only place I could find a dedicated one was in the USA. I managed to pick up an identical looking lever from an Aussie online motorbike shop (MX Store). Just a little work left to connect it to the brake pot. Lastly I added a ‘Turbo’ button as the plan will be to run a multi board in the cab that plays Racing Hero, Super Hang On, Hang On and Hang On Jr.
  13. I would of thought it was similar but looking at the Hang On manual I’m not so sure.
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