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My New Cab


Womble

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I picked this fella up on ebay at the end of last year, cost me $80 delivered, was a bit of a wreck and utterly filthy but had potential.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab1-2.jpg

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab2-2.jpg

 

It was originally a horizontal cab, the black paint mask on the cover glass is horizontal, but the internal screen mounts were set for vertical, which is what I wanted anyway. Will have to scrape the paint off the glass and re-do it, it has a few scuff marks in it anyway.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab3-2.jpg

 

The wiring was an absolute shit fight, yards and yards of badly joined, gaffer taped, gloopy soldered fire hazard. The mains noise filter was bypassed with the thinnest gauge wire possible because the neutral tag had broken off, the switch was in the neutral path not the live and the fuse was bypassed because the contacts were so gummed up with solder and bent that they were touching.

 

The wiring on the DC side of the PSU was in good nick, there was just far too much of it, no idea why but someone in the past had added more wire to the RGB, sync and video ground wires, 4 meters of it in fact, then they had joined the chassis connector onto the end of it and that was a mere 4 cm of wire then the connector.

 

Anyway, we bought a nice new telly recently so the old 68cm CRT was looking for a new home, bought a universal chassis from Joey and set to work.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab4-2.jpg

 

Had to replace the deflection coil wiring as the connector used by the TV chassis didn't suit the connector on the universal one, I think the original one was non-standard. Thankfully the universal chassis came with a new harness for the deflection coils, as well as a new degaussing strap, ground wiring and a new RGB lead. The chassis itself is a flippin work of art, I have never seen one that looks so well made, its almost a shame to lock it away in a dark cabinet. Anyway, soldering iron out, old harness off, new harness on.

 

I decided to totally rewire the mains side of the cabs wiring system, firstly to fix up any safety issues but mainly so I knew how it was all connected up before I plugged it in. Pretty much everything from the original was re-used once cleaned up and resoldered neatly.. The noise filter was toast so that got binned. I did remove the mains wiring to another switch hacked into the rear of the cabinet, took out the wiring for a light bulb holder that was well past its best and of no use to me.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab6.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab10.jpg

 

I suppose I could have used a new piece of wood as the base board but decided the old one would do, in retrospect I wish I had though. Still, at least everything is screwed down and cable tied properly now.

 

Nearly put my bloody back out lowering the tube into the cabinet, damn those things are heavy.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab5-1.jpg

 

Very relieved when the first two bolts were in, without the bolts there is nothing holding it in and it was keen to slide off and plunge into the cab.

 

Connected everything up, routed the high voltage cables so they choose to hang in free space away from all other wiring and each other.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab11.jpg

 

Mounted the chassis control panel behind the coin door for easy access, the wiring was just long enough :)

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab7.jpg

 

Double checked the mains wiring and flipped the power switch, checked the voltages were good and attached the first game board this cab has probably seen in years.

 

Mild panic when nothing happened, I could hear the tube high voltage kick in but the screen was blank, I just needed to turn the brightness up :lol

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab12.jpg

 

Still some cosmetic work to do, the marquee is still a gaping hole, the old fluoro holders are wrecked, but I have never connected the light in my other cab as it was too bright. Needs some artwork on it at the least.

 

Also the old CP looks a bit tatty now it has nice shiny buttons and joysticks fitted, may get it plastic coated in the near future.. Need to tidy (actually replace) the control wiring as its a mess of knackered crimp connectors and about 3 different types/lengths of wire. It works as it stands though so have already had a good blast on it.

 

And when the lights are out it looks awesome already... :D

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab13.jpg

 

It struck me that I already have a bezel for this very tube, the front of the TV case, may well take a saw to it, cut out enough of the old front to surround the tube, spray it black and then mount the cover glass over the top.

 

A couple of questions tho, does anyone know of / or have a coin mech that would fit this hole?

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/Cab14.jpg

 

Its the 3 mounting screw layout that is the important bit, doesn't matter if the coin mech works, I am not keen on buying a new one as it will never take any coins, I just need this space filled up in an authentic manner.

 

Also - locks, anyone know if its possible to get 3 locks that all take the same key easily? I need one for the coin door, one for the game board flap and one for the rear panel of the cab, would be cool if they all took the same key.

 

Also there was a thread on here a while ago about the 1st lowboys that broke the trend of the fake wood grain being made in yellow. The thread said you could tell them from the generic ones as they were made from chipboard not MDF, I didn't think much of it thinking mine was mdf, but round the back where the edges are not painted its clear this is chipboard, it's certainly yellow, in parts anyway.

Edited by Womble
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Whats the measurements of the holes for the coinmech as I have a box full of different sorts.

 

The bottom 2 holes are 4cm apart and if you draw a line through the middle point of the two lower holes, the top hole middle point is 14.5cm from that line.

 

You can also see the witness marks on the red paint that the original coin mech had a curved top, would be interested if you have one to fit this beast.

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Great stuff Womble. Another cab saved with an old TV and a Jomac chassis, satisfying project isn't it:) I know what you mean about locking away such a neat chassis, but its good to know its all minty inside.

The picture with these setups has to be seen to be believed especially when its BombJack ;)

If you find out where to get cam locks with the same keys give me a holler or post it here, I need about 6 or 7 myself.

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Great job mate !! didn't realise a 68cm would even fit in those cabs , that is going to give hope for a lot of those out there with dead 26" monitors .

 

That cab was made by AMD , the coin door is setup for a MARS Mech ME111 series.

 

http://highway.net.au/parts/coin_mechs/978_5.html

 

One day someone is going to setup a cab with one of these nice new chassis and a clear side so you can see it :) you know just like computers now with neons etc hehe

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A small amount of progress but a big leap in appearance, looks much more complete all of a sudden.

 

I done got me a coin slot fascia (nice one Coolspot, the link you found was just the job), and some locks too. Now the board door doesn't fall open every time I fart near it.

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/coindoor.jpg

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e230/Womble76/coindoor2.jpg

 

If I am feeling brave I will tackle the bezel this weekend. Now that I think about it I am not that many more steps away from this being complete.

 

Off to make a JAMMA adaptor for my Galaxians board now, it was the 1st game PCB I ever fixed, and I have actually yet to play a game on it. Shameful I know!

Edited by Womble
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