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JUKEBOX SPEAKER SET UP??


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Hi all,

I have GEFORCE TOUHSCREEN Jukebox Project and am running Partytime Jukebox Software.

 

I have installed the motherboard, HDD, PSU and the machine is running brilliant, although I only have a standard sound / audio card with the jacks in it (pink, blue and green).

 

I want to wire 2 x tweeter speakers and 2 x 1000 Watt speakers (with LEDS) that are sound activated (I already have the sound activation device).

 

My question is this:

What is the best setup for wiring four speakers (as above) when I only have the standard jacks on the sound / audio card ??. Do I need to run an amp or is there a simpler way??

 

Looking for advice on the what people think is the best option.

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Be careful with that setup, if you want two 1000 Watt drivers, I assume they are going to be very large woofers (sub woofers). With woofers and tweeters you will kiss your sweet vocal and guitar mid-range goodbye.

 

If you want big drivers, you'll need some 4"/6" drivers in the middle there, and probably make crossovers to match based on their freq. response curves. Easy solution would be to find some decent tower speakers (ie: 3 ways) where the drivers are good but perhaps the cabinets are rooted/scratched/water damaged. You could pay nothing for them and rip out the drivers and crossovers.

 

...and of course you will need an amp... a big one if you want 1000W (1000WRMS is an absolute ridiculous shitload of power....you better be building this thing fucking strong...)

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I want to wire 2 x tweeter speakers and 2 x 1000 Watt speakers (with LEDS) that are sound activated (I already have the sound activation device).

 

I'd take that 1000W figure with a grain of salt. Maybe 100W - 200W RMS. Maybe...

 

Yes, you'll need an amplifier. What sort of crossover you'll need will depend on the tweeters. Are they really light plastic (piezo) or heavier with a magnet?

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Yeah as always with cheap audio stuff I guess. 1000W peak at 5% THD maintained for 2 seconds lol

 

Those PMPO figures are just ridiculous in some cases. I always say "peak power with a tail wind just before they explode"! :lol

Seriously, 50W per channel of real (RMS) power should be more than enough for any home juke although allow twice that much for the sub channel.

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Those PMPO figures are just ridiculous in some cases. I always say "peak power with a tail wind just before they explode"! :lol

Seriously, 50W per channel of real (RMS) power should be more than enough for any home juke although allow twice that much for the sub channel.

 

PMPO = Peak Marketing Power Output

 

Lets assume a 80% efficent amp (damn unlikely) then you'd need to run those speakers on 3 phase :D, so yeah, the 1kW ratiung may be a little bit tweaked by the marking people...

 

Do the speakers have their own amps built in?

 

Cheers

Jacob

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PMPO = Peak Marketing Power Output

 

Lets assume a 80% efficent amp (damn unlikely) then you'd need to run those speakers on 3 phase :D, so yeah, the 1kW ratiung may be a little bit tweaked by the marking people...

Do the speakers have their own amps built in?

Cheers

Jacob

 

The speakers I bought off ebay in a boombox car audio setup. I stripped them out and installed them. They have a PCB wired to them for sound activations and that is all. They are 12" diameter.

 

I will check the wattage written on them later today and repost. Will send a couple of photos too so you can have a look.

Cheers

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Oh OK, then it sounds like you most definately will need an amp, I wouldn't think a PC port would be rated any more than 2W tops...

 

Car amp sounds like a good match if the speakers were from a car setup (I assume then the speakers would be 4ohm, whereas most home audio gear is setup for 8ohm speakers).

 

As long as your 12v power supply has enough grunt, you will be ok to run a car amp - but remember it will be a little low on its badged output as they really run on 13.8v in a car, not 12v...

 

Cheers

JAcob

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As long as your 12v power supply has enough grunt, you will be ok to run a car amp - but remember it will be a little low on its badged output as they really run on 13.8v in a car, not 12v...

 

Cheers

JAcob

 

It will have to be a BIG power supply as well, the Arcade/PC power supplys will not be able to supply the juice for a car amp. Plus you will probably get hum through the system because you will be using AC power. I think the best solution would be to purchase a home audio amp of Ebay, it will work out a LOT cheaper.

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Dealing with alot of current here if you go 12 volt car gear... The amp I am about to rip out of my car drew 50 amps, running through garden hose cable (2 guage). That calls for more than a casual 12v desktop supply...

 

I would also buy a decent home amp

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It will have to be a BIG power supply as well, the Arcade/PC power supplys will not be able to supply the juice for a car amp. Plus you will probably get hum through the system because you will be using AC power. I think the best solution would be to purchase a home audio amp of Ebay, it will work out a LOT cheaper.

 

Yeah, I thought about it overnight. Arcade PSUs have stuff all 12v current to spare... I have a PC one that has 20A at 12v (:o) but yeah, all sorts of grounding issues can pop up using car gear on a mains supply...

 

Cheers

Jacob

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The the speaker setup that has made my Jukebox project grind to a halt - I am completely at a loss of what to do :unsure I want something simple like a Logitec or Altec Lansing 2.1 system, but reading reviews etc, they're all made to be put on your computer desktop - not a jukebox cab.

I've got eyes on ebay for something special, but until that turns up, my project is on ice :confused:

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The easy way to put car stereo gear into a cabinet is to hook it up using a big-assed 12v battery as a capacitor. It smooths out the AC power supply noise, it takes all the LARGE peak power requirements and smooths them out, and they work brilliantly.

I did it using only a PC power supply.

 

When the PC is on, it is charging the battery.

 

A car battery can take anywhere from 350amp shock loads up to 600amp. CCA rating is the Cold Cranking Amps. For starting your engine. So if you were to crank the thing RIGHT UP for a few seconds it will handle it, when your ears begin bleeding you will turn it back down to sensible levels and the battery will begin charging again.

 

I used a battery from a UPS in my project. Worked great.

Hooked up 2 car stereo amps, one for the 6x9's and the other for the sub which was bridged.

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How bout a couple of pics george to see how you did this.....

 

This is my speaker set up I have for the jukebox that I will require an amp of some sort to run. Any suggestions would be appreciated.....

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/PC260001.jpg?t=1230270416

Two speakers connected by a sound activated PCD for the LED's

 

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/PC260004.jpg?t=1230270509

Speaker with the LED surround

 

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/PC260002.jpg?t=1230270582

PCB with the LED connectors

 

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/PC260003.jpg?t=1230270651

Close up of sound activation PCB

 

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/PC260005.jpg?t=1230270727

Pic of the connector box

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Gawd, it was 3 years ago when I did it and the machine is now in tasmania.

If I remember correctly I parallelled the battery into the amps from the PC power supply.

 

 

From the amps onwards, it's basic standard car stereo wiring, using one amp in bridged mode for the sub, and the other to drive the main speakers, crossovers, etc..

 

I also took a 12v supply from the power supply and fed it into the 12v switch on the amps to fire them up with the PC.

 

There's a few ways to do this if you wanna play around with relays and diodes, and i'm sorry to be vague about it but whatever I did worked nicely.

The point is that the battery took all the bumps out of the sound, no lights went dim or anything stupid when you would crank the thing right up.

 

I will ask the owner if he can send me some pics to refresh my memory. I remember I racked my brains over it for weeks and then one day a lightbulb came on in my head, I did it and it worked great.

 

I have a few spares of these batteries if anybody wants them, I will never use them. They are bloody heavy tho, too heavy to post.

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People like to think that with a Jukebox you need to go the most powerful speakers money can buy. Wrong.. I use my jukebox at parties and people want music but still want to be able to talk to each other. I have a Creative 5.1 speaker setup in mine and it's got a built-in amp in the sub. It's been loud enough for any occasion that I can think of and you can pickup a set of these speakers cheap as. Runs an external volume knob that I have attached to the back of the unit for volume adjustment as some of my music is OGG and loud and some is lower bitrate mp3.. I'm running a Creative Labs 5300 setup minus a center speaker. I might add that later on but yeah, you don't always need the biggest speakers to get good impact.
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People like to think that with a Jukebox you need to go the most powerful speakers money can buy. Wrong.. I use my jukebox at parties and people want music but still want to be able to talk to each other. I have a Creative 5.1 speaker setup in mine and it's got a built-in amp in the sub. It's been loud enough for any occasion that I can think of and you can pickup a set of these speakers cheap as. Runs an external volume knob that I have attached to the back of the unit for volume adjustment as some of my music is OGG and loud and some is lower bitrate mp3.. I'm running a Creative Labs 5300 setup minus a center speaker. I might add that later on but yeah, you don't always need the biggest speakers to get good impact.

 

Thank NIZ,

I only bought these speakers for the LED's that are sound activated. I got em for $50.00 (set of 2) so thought what is the best way to do this.......

 

I have now scored a 5.1 Home theatre set up that I will put in and see what happens. Once done I will advise and post pics / vids............

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Thank NIZ,

I only bought these speakers for the LED's that are sound activated. I got em for $50.00 (set of 2) so thought what is the best way to do this.......

 

I have now scored a 5.1 Home theatre set up that I will put in and see what happens. Once done I will advise and post pics / vids............

 

Installed the Phillips 5.1 Home theatre set up and shazzzzzaaaaammmmmm its all good................... Subwoofer, Centre balance, 2 front and 2 rear speakers all workin a treat.... Now just need to wire the LED's to the power supply and or find a 240 - 12 Volt adaptor and its time for a PARTAY....................:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

 

So much easier than what I was tryin to do..... Now just need the attract lights board from David (:unsure) and all complete.......................

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Installed the Phillips 5.1 Home theatre set up and shazzzzzaaaaammmmmm its all good................... Subwoofer, Centre balance, 2 front and 2 rear speakers all workin a treat.... Now just need to wire the LED's to the power supply and or find a 240 - 12 Volt adaptor and its time for a PARTAY....................:D:D:D:D:D:D:D...........So much easier than what I was tryin to do..... Now just need the attract lights board from David (:unsure) and all complete.......................

 

Here is the JB working with the touchscreen.....

Sorry about the sound level but I thought I had it loud enough but obviously not!!!!!!!!!!! :unsure

 

[ame=http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/?action=view&current=30122008002.flv]http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/oo104/daics3522/?action=view&current=30122008002.flv[/ame]

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Dick smith jobbie do it there Daics?

 

Similar product but my brother works for Phillips and had an old style 5.1 Home Theatre surround sound setup. I thought WTF give it a go and it works sweet.

 

Had to but a stereo jack to Audio (Red/White) adaptor like yours and now its PARTYTIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I always thought the rule of thumb was PMPO= divide by 10 for 'real' wattage (RMS).

 

Ie, 1000 watt PMPO = 100 watt RMS (roughly).

 

My other rule of thumb is that if they advertise using PMPO, they're not trying to appeal to the 'audiophile' market, thus don't expect much.

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