Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×
  • 0
IGNORED

Stern Hot Hand with problems


pieces

Question

Hi there.

This is my first machine so its a learning curve . I bought this off some some who said it just stopped . A bit of hacking has happened which I tidied up .

 

I ve progressed from the LED being stuck on to 7 flashes now . It has a Bally MPU board.

When booting up I get flash No7 then the centre and right thumper fire and the display cycles the high score. At this stage it wont coin up .

 

The sound card is a sb-100 which moans and is noisy so its disconnected.

 

I have done test 1-4 and every thing works.

 

 

 

I just pulled out U8 ram while power was off and reinserted . Now a I can coin in and play a ball but the playfield solenoids are not working except the right thumper when the centre one trigers it .

1 - 4 test still ok

 

Im stumped some forums say the Ram or Eproms can still be a problem after flash 7 .

 

Thank you for your time .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 0

On old machines it is often the connectors rather than the components that give you grief. Try reseating all of the connectors, particularly the bottom left on the MPU and the short right hand one in the middle on the Solenoid Driver. Do you have a manual? If so go into the solenoid test and make sure the correct solenoids are firing at the right time. Report back with your findings...

 

cheers

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Hi there.

This is my first machine so its a learning curve . I bought this off some some who said it just stopped . A bit of hacking has happened which I tidied up .

 

I ve progressed from the LED being stuck on to 7 flashes now . It has a Bally MPU board.

When booting up I get flash No7 then the centre and right thumper fire and the display cycles the high score. At this stage it wont coin up .

 

The sound card is a sb-100 which moans and is noisy so its disconnected.

 

I have done test 1-4 and every thing works.

 

 

 

I just pulled out U8 ram while power was off and reinserted . Now a I can coin in and play a ball but the playfield solenoids are not working except the right thumper when the centre one trigers it .

1 - 4 test still ok

 

Im stumped some forums say the Ram or Eproms can still be a problem after flash 7 .

 

Thank you for your time .

 

Gday and welcome. I have 2 sterns from that era, and they are a great generation of games.

 

Where are you based? You may have someone nearby who can lend a hand.

 

There are a few things that could be your problem - start with the simple stuff as mentioned - unplug and replug the connectors a few times to clean them and see if it improves at all.

 

From there, there are a few directions to go. Was there any damage from battery corrosion on the MPU?

 

The moaning SB-100 is kind-of common, there are a few possible culprits there too. How happy are you to swing an iron and repair PCBs?

 

Cheers

Jacob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks guys for your fast reply .

 

When I do test 4 all the solenoids work as per the card in the cabinet.

 

But in game mode eg when it gives me the ball several other solenoids fire at the same time and others dont fire at all seems as tho the CPU is crazy.

 

The Battery has been upgraded by some one else there is mild corrosion on the board.

 

As for the the sound card I have repaired a few electronic things . Done the displays yesterday .

Any ideas where to start with the SB-100 noise. Its noisy with the 2 mpu cables removed.

 

Thank you in advance

Edited by pieces
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

 

As for the the sound card I have repaired a few electronic things . Done the displays yesterday .

Any ideas where to start with the SB-100 noise.

 

Thank you in advance

 

As Jacob suggested, could be a number of things. However, i'd start by verifying that the J5 cable between the sound board and MPU is good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If there is any corrosion on the board you need to clean these first as this can cause some weird faults. The bally boards are also known for their bad IC sockets and need replacing in the long term. Is there any chance that the Roms are for a different game?

When you do the a switch test are any switches showing as being stuck?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Here is one of my past adventures with an SB-100:

 

If it is noisy with j5 disconnected, then it is the soundboard that has the fault...

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=16582&highlight=sb-100

 

If you have a spare 5101 ram, try swapping it if your machine is acting weird like you describe. If you don't have a spare yet, maybe it's time to grab one.

 

Cheers

Jacob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
If there is any corrosion on the board you need to clean these first as this can cause some weird faults. The bally boards are also known for their bad IC sockets and need replacing in the long term. Is there any chance that the Roms are for a different game?

When you do the a switch test are any switches showing as being stuck?

 

What do you clean with it looks as tho someone has already cleaned do you coat with something to protect the copper afterwards??

 

The PIA chip sockets have already been replaced

 

Roms Dont know about them Im tempted to replace them and the ram ics anyway. Any one do burning . The ones in there are erasable they have a sticker with HH u2 and u6.

 

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
What do you clean with it looks as tho someone has already cleaned do you coat with something to protect the copper afterwards??

 

The PIA chip sockets have already been replaced

 

Roms Dont know about them Im tempted to replace them and the ram ics anyway. Any one do burning . The ones in there are erasable they have a sticker with HH u2 and u6.

 

cheers

 

I think member pinrepairs may be worth PM'ing, not too sure if he does these old eproms, but if not he will point you in the right direction.

 

As it passes the 7 flash, it is possible the eprom is stuffed, but rather unlikely. The fact that the solenoid test works means the PIAs seem OK. My money is on the 5101, but I'd only bet $2 at this stage :D

 

Cheers

Jacob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
I think member pinrepairs may be worth PM'ing, not too sure if he does these old eproms, but if not he will point you in the right direction.

 

As it passes the 7 flash, it is possible the eprom is stuffed, but rather unlikely. The fact that the solenoid test works means the PIAs seem OK. My money is on the 5101, but I'd only bet $2 at this stage :D

 

Cheers

Jacob

 

Thanks Jacob ,i changed my name back to Skybeaux......too many people were having trouble finding me:lol

 

I do the old eproms for these games and also have new 5101 rams ,PIA's and processors.

 

Send me a PM, Pieces ,if you need any of these

 

The 5101 socket sounds like it needs replacing ,for a start

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Thanks Jacob ,i changed my name back to Skybeaux......too many people were having trouble finding me:lol

 

I do the old eproms for these games and also have new 5101 rams ,PIA's and processors.

 

Send me a PM, Pieces ,if you need any of these

 

The 5101 socket sounds like it needs replacing ,for a start

 

I just noticed mate, and was searching to correct the thread - and you beat me to it!

 

Cheers

Jacob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Did some testing with a logic probe last night before the new E proms and ram turns up .

 

When I close the centre thumper switch (in game) I get 2 logic lows which activate the right thumper . Should only get 1 according to chip data sheet.

The 4 data lines from the PIA are in tact . Backed up by the solenoid test

 

Im leaning towards the wrong or dodgy E proms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If you bought the machine not working the previous owner could have done all sorts of things! I had a Big Game once where the wires in the switch matrix inputs to the CPU had been swapped around - took me a while to work that one out. It will be interesting to see what you nail it down to.

 

cheers

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

The new E- Proms have sorted my problem . Looks like the old ones were for another game but were marked HH thanks Ken

 

Having problems locking the glass down seems too long on one side . Im not game to force it .

 

Can it be ground to fit ???? It needs 2-3 mm off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Do NOT try and grind the glass - it should fit. Check the machine is sitting 'square - if the ground is not flat or the levellers on each side are out of kilter the whole box goes out of square (remember how old she is and the hammering it would have had over 30 years) and the glass will not fit. Square it up and it should be all good.

 

Sometimes the glass has trouble sliding under the guide at the top near the headbox, so check that as well.

 

cheers

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Grind was probably the wrong word . I should have said sander I think glass people have a belt sander that attacks glass .

 

Wasnt locked down when I got her and had trouble opening the door because the leaver was in the way.

 

I turned the glass 180 and the tight edge moved to the other side I will check with a tape tomorrow .

 

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Checked the glass its square im thinking its off another machine. theirs no way its going to lock down . How much force do you guys use to push down the lock bar.

One side gets very close. Is it meant to be very snug

 

Also whats recommended to clean the play surface with out damaging it ???

Theres a lot of grime where the ball rolls .Seen some CP-100 at RTBB

 

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Also whats recommended to clean the play surface with out damaging it ???

Theres a lot of grime where the ball rolls .Seen some CP-100 at RTBB

 

cheers

 

Try some Mr Sheen, and then novus.

I have used CP-100 and IMO is nothing special for playfields, but great for plastics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

The glass should be 'standard' size - 21" * 43" *3/16" thick.

 

If it is the correct size, again I suggest making sure the machine is 'square' on its feet (if the sides are uneven) and make sure it is sliding into the right place at the top under the headbox (can't remember for Hot Hand, either under a piece of wood or into a guide.

 

cheers

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Personally I hate mr sheen, but I know a few guys who use it on their playfields.

 

Keep it away from any plastics though. It will yellow them and cause stress cracking.

 

The smell of mr sheen and the warnings on the can (plus the MSDS) let me know it is full of volatile contents and bugger all wax. That means it it may be ok to clean the PF but won't leave a wax layer to protect it - you will still need to put a wax polish on the PF.

 

There are quite a few "whats a good cleaner" threads - my connection is painfully slow at the moment so searching for them is out of the question, but there is all sorts of good advice and ideas.

 

Cheers

Jacob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Glass fits like a glove now its to specification :D

 

Some one drilled a 16mm hole and install a push switch to coin in. The switch is in bits and be blowed if I can find a replacment one with that size hole plenty of 12mm and some 18mm .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...