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STTNG advice wanted (please)


ANT68

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Great choice. My first Pin and still my favourite.

 

(Give us an idea of your location and someone may have a local deal for you)

 

Borg ship can be melted/cracked, a bit of wear around the holes is usual.

 

Check that the cannons work (rotate) and fire.

 

Playfield on ST:TNG is usually not one that wears badly.

 

Very complex game though... there will probably be a few tething problems, but that's half the joy of owning a pinball... fixing it!

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will 9/10 have some slight cracking accross the blue inserts, it just varies in severity.

will usualy be cracked left ramp and also wear on the decal on the right ramp where the pop bumper hits it.

melted borg ship

little bit of wear in neutral zone

check cannons work

check wear where the ball is launched onto playfield from wireform

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Great choice. My first Pin and still my favourite.

 

(Give us an idea of your location and someone may have a local deal for you)

 

Borg ship can be melted/cracked, a bit of wear around the holes is usual.

 

Check that the cannons work (rotate) and fire.

 

Playfield on ST:TNG is usually not one that wears badly.

 

Very complex game though... there will probably be a few tething problems, but that's half the joy of owning a pinball... fixing it!

 

I'm in Brizzy,not sure what the boys up here have ???

(Very complex ) I thought TZ was complex

Seen a couple of pic's of some for sale but they have a bad case of insert wear etc ,and wear around flipper buttons .:unsure

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check with tony (pinball shed), he may have one or know where one is. check the ball trough optos work, to be honest and its faster, just learn how to do a full switch matrix test. check em off as you go (print out the matrix from the manual http://www.Ipdb.org) (at work so you don't waste your own paper). do the solenoid test and while your at it check each GI string from the test menu (there are 5), and to finalise a feature lamp test run through. it will take about 20 mins and you'll know eactly what sort of condition it's in switch, solenoid and lamp wise.

 

then i would test the power driver board test points, especially the 5 volts at test point 2 (over 5 volts then great, under 4.90 then you are most likely gonna need a bridge and cap rebuild). if you then test pin 32 on the rom against ground (cpu board) and compare to TP2 above, if the connectors are in good nick then they should be nearly the same. if there is a big diff (say .2 volts) then you are also gonna need to rebuild the PDB connectors.

 

while you've got your multi meter out test the voltages on the DMD, test the 2 right most pins (before the key) against ground, they should be 12 volts diff (say -120 and -108). if not then HV rebuild on the DMD controller board is gonna be needed. the last pin should be 62 volts, if not or 70+ it may have been tweaked with a higher rated zener because the display is outgassing.

 

test the power of the flippers, check the playfield in great detail and most importantly make sure all the ships are there, romulan, borg, shuttle, ? check against ipdb pics. check the plastics in detail and for rust on the metal ramps. the cab and backglass should be in good condition otherwise mark the price down.

 

if this all comes up and its just dirty then expect to pay around 3k, bottom end 2500 for 'shitty' and top end 4K for really nice condition. 5k for fully shopped/mint.

 

good luck. and may the force be with you (wrong movie, sorry, this is the crystal one right?) :)

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check with tony (pinball shed), he may have one or know where one is. check the ball trough optos work, to be honest and its faster, just learn how to do a full switch matrix test. check em off as you go (print out the matrix from the manual http://www.Ipdb.org) (at work so you don't waste your own paper). do the solenoid test and while your at it check each GI string from the test menu (there are 5), and to finalise a feature lamp test run through. it will take about 20 mins and you'll know eactly what sort of condition it's in switch, solenoid and lamp wise.

 

then i would test the power driver board test points, especially the 5 volts at test point 2 (over 5 volts then great, under 4.90 then you are most likely gonna need a bridge and cap rebuild). if you then test pin 32 on the rom against ground (cpu board) and compare to TP2 above, if the connectors are in good nick then they should be nearly the same. if there is a big diff (say .2 volts) then you are also gonna need to rebuild the PDB connectors.

 

while you've got your multi meter out test the voltages on the DMD, test the 2 right most pins (before the key) against ground, they should be 12 volts diff (say -120 and -108). if not then HV rebuild on the DMD controller board is gonna be needed. the last pin should be 62 volts, if not or 70+ it may have been tweaked with a higher rated zener because the display is outgassing.

 

test the power of the flippers, check the playfield in great detail and most importantly make sure all the ships are there, romulan, borg, shuttle, ? check against ipdb pics. check the plastics in detail and for rust on the metal ramps. the cab and backglass should be in good condition otherwise mark the price down.

 

if this all comes up and its just dirty then expect to pay around 3k, bottom end 2500 for 'shitty' and top end 4K for really nice condition. 5k for fully shopped/mint.

 

good luck. and may the force be with you (wrong movie, sorry, this is the crystal one right?) :)

 

Thanks for all the info ,I'm still trying to work out how to use a hammer let along a multi meter (LOL),anyway I'll take it all on board ,if and when I find one locally I 'll swing you a carton so that you can check it out with me ( if you don't mind)

I'd want a pretty smick (mint collectors)unit but I have been informed by a leading parts supplier that there's

"No such thing on the STNG games"

 

I'd reckon there be (mint collectors) out there some where ??

Anyway thanks again .

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yes changing the 906 flasher will help but im having trouble using LED's to substitute the 2 555's. Problem is they use AC and I made a full bridge as per David AVD's post but the LED just doesnt dim properly and when you go into GI test its gets to about PWR level 5 its starts doing funny shit and blinking :unsure bit of a corker. If it doesnt dim properly then its really looks shit.
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yes changing the 906 flasher will help but im having trouble using LED's to substitute the 2 555's. Problem is they use AC and I made a full bridge as per David AVD's post but the LED just doesnt dim properly and when you go into GI test its gets to about PWR level 5 its starts doing funny shit and blinking :unsure bit of a corker. If it doesnt dim properly then its really looks shit.

 

ah, thats where you were implementing that circuit. so the 555's are on one of the GI loops, does that mean they are on all the time? what else is on that loop? if its blinking maybe the cap spec needs changing :unsure

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ah, thats where you were implementing that circuit. so the 555's are on one of the GI loops, does that mean they are on all the time? what else is on that loop? if its blinking maybe the cap spec needs changing :unsure

 

The problem is that the GI is AC - which on it's own is not that big of a deal.

 

The Problem is that the WPC games have dimming for the GI lighting, and that throws a spanner in the works.

 

The dimming method is crude but effective for normal lamps. The LEDs show up the crudeness of the method, by flickering and carrying on pretty weirdly. The waveform that is presented to the LED is all over the place, and seems difficult to filter without using a rather large capacitor. Using several large capacitors then leads to another problem - the peak charge current for the caps could damage the GI lighting controller......

 

I have some playing I need to do for another project around the GI dimmed outputs and LEDs, so I'll see what I find.

 

Cheers

Jacob

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thats why i was trying to work out how often/when they are on. ironically i have a STNG but haven't turned it on for a while (needs rebuild). if its a three lamp set up then i'm guessing the 555's provide general illumination, hence being on the GI string (:-)) and the 906's provide the feature 'shield on' effect. if the glow from the 555's is static/stable you could highjack a 12vdc feature light power feed for the LED's and then wouldn't have to mess with the GI AC...
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in home use the heat is not an issue (ak you know im oem !) but leds would probably be blinding so to speak as far as game play. (2 cents)

 

stuba.. thats the best guide to "check a pinball in a post" ive seen! really good.

readers best to dump that to notepad !!!...place in wallet! :D

 

i love sttng pin :D

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stuba.. thats the best guide to "check a pinball in a post" ive seen! really good.

readers best to dump that to notepad !!!...place in wallet! :D

 

 

thanks christian, i'll sign one for you for your wallet, do you want a pic as well ? :lol

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in home use the heat is not an issue (ak you know im oem !) but leds would probably be blinding so to speak as far as game play. (2 cents)

 

stuba.. thats the best guide to "check a pinball in a post" ive seen! really good.

readers best to dump that to notepad !!!...place in wallet! :D

 

i love sttng pin :D

+1

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thats why i was trying to work out how often/when they are on. ironically i have a STNG but haven't turned it on for a while (needs rebuild). if its a three lamp set up then i'm guessing the 555's provide general illumination, hence being on the GI string (:-)) and the 906's provide the feature 'shield on' effect. if the glow from the 555's is static/stable you could highjack a 12vdc feature light power feed for the LED's and then wouldn't have to mess with the GI AC...

 

The shields have their own dedicated GI string used as a dimming effect in the borg mode. when the enterprise takes damage the shields dim which can be regenerated by hitting the spinner. The 906's flash when the enterprise gets hit.

 

I dunno nug, after what I've been though think I'll stick with LED's in the feature lamps, plus I think they just looks brighter and better.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found a STTNG but it's $$$$

 

Found this STTNG from a private collector ,can you guys give it a quick check over and let me know your thoughts ?

He's getting back to me with a firm price ,I'm guesing way way over $5000:unsure:unsure

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looks pretty nice

has a speaker upgrade which is cool

 

need to get pics of the neutral zone for a start

would also be nice to have pics of the 3 big green inserts with full lights under em

sides are really good, what about the head box?

 

Nothing about this game makes it a 5k game bud, infact It would be extremely hard to find a 5k sttng in the priv market.

 

more of a 4-4.5k game (and it would be hard to sell for 4.5k in the current market)

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