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Saftey Switch Flicking


opm881

Question

Ok, so I have been speaking to joey and have gotten most of this monitor sorted out. Only problem is when I try to put the video part of the harness onto the video input part of the chassis, it flips the house saftey switch. Now i know the board works as I got it tested, but the harness is just what came with the cabinet. I wired it up to run off pc power and it worked fine from what i could tell, but then when i tried to plug it into the video input on the chassis is flipped the house saftey.

 

Editing in, Its a 110v monitor, not 240v

 

So, any ideas where to start looking?

Edited by opm881
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I have heard that some arcade monitors need an isolation transformer (240V : 240V) despite them being 240V. ie. The video input is not fully isolated from the mains.

 

I'm sure someone that knows more (or less!) about this will chime in.

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crap, forgot to mention its 110v. The ampage on the transformer i am using isnt the amount it needs but joey says that shouldnt be a problem and seeing as I can power her up without the video input being there from the monitor i dont see how its the problem either
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step down transformer shouldnt be the problem. The saftey is fine when the board is seperate from the monitor and both are running. Its when the video input goes into the chassis the saftey flips. I am only presuming the board is working, no reason to believe it aint as it was working when i got it tested
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That's what I'm saying. If the step-down is leaky (faulty), it will bleed voltage from input to output. Whilst the chassis is not connected to anything else, that leakage has nowhere to return to. Once you plug that video input in to the game board, you complete the return path. Your safety switch then sees the leakage as an imbalance and trips out.
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hmmmmmmmmm. Never thought of it that way. Would the monitor still light up and crap even with the leaky step down?

Yes it would seem fine.

 

Good point about being an autotransformer AskJocob.

Can you disconnect the transformer easily and do you have a multimeter?

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Dont think there is a mutlimeter some where o_O These times I wish i was still in cairns. My dad was an electrician. I have no idea how to tell if its an isolating or w/e but its called a steed grounded step down transformer. its label number is ST-65GD.

 

I didnt buy it, im just borrowing it from a friend because i have no access to a step down besides buying and I dont wanna buy one

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Will get a picture when i can. This is all the info on it.

 

Model Numer: ST-65GD

Input Rating: 220/230/240V~ 65W (with Power Cord)

Output Raing: 110/115/120V~ 0.5A 60VA(with outlet)

Frequency Range: 50-60 Hertz

Operation Current: Sine Wave

 

Protective Ground

Fuse Protected

Dielectric Tested

 

It looks like the one that was linked

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Hello there

 

There is a good way to find this problem.

 

Get an electrician to megger test (insulation tester needed) the machine.

 

It is capable of generating 500 VDC and will find the problem by elimination.

 

One of the testers leads ALWAYS stays on the earth pin. The other lead is placed on either the Active OR Neutral pin of the plug.

 

NEVER test between the Active and neutral pins (Generally speaking) as this will place a huge surge through your electronics.

 

 

Last time I megger tested an arcade machine, the problem was in the filter box, some of the wires were a bit overheated and the green has melted to the brown wires.

 

Keep up the posts and I will help you.

 

But you need a Megger,

 

AND THE POWER NEEDS TO BE OFF (UNPLUGGED) Naturally

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I understood...... none of what you were talking about. The only thing i am trying to get working 100% is the monitor, the machine is no longer an arcade machine as such. Its been mame'd cause the powersupply was already busted and i bought the cab with the intention to mame it
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You can grab a functional Digital meter for $10, and it will be handy for other jobs...

 

e.g. like this one:

 

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/486a0c910012e6502742c0a87f9c06dc/Product/View/Q1469

 

would tandy have sumfin like that? if so i can pick one up on my way home from uni 2moro from down the road.

 

Just checked the site and they should. What would i need to test?

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would tandy have sumfin like that? if so i can pick one up on my way home from uni 2moro from down the road

 

Tandy pretty much is DSE - so you can ask them. If they don't have them there, I'm sure they could order one in...

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Just checked the site and they should. What would i need to test?

Any multimeter should have resistance (Ohms) and voltage (AC & DC) ranges. If you have the budget, spend $20 - $30. If $10 is all you have then that would be better than nothing I guess. Pity you don't get down my way. I probably have a used one you can have cheap. (just bought 3 new ones last week)

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I agree on the spending a little more if you can. I picked the bottom end because I got the impression you weren't keen on spending too much. It will be a valuable tool for a long time. Thanks for pointing it out David :)
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