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Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/05/22 in all areas

  1. Howdy all. I'm very new to this forum chat, but I did just want to introduce myself and say hi to the community that I hope to be an active member of. I have recently purchased a NeoGeo MVS 4 Slot LAI Lowboy cabinet and plan on bringing it back to its former glory. I'm from Brisbane and enjoyed the scene all the way back to when Mana Bar tried to make barcades a thing in the Valley. Biggups to Netherworld and Pincadia keeping the scene alive in Brissy.
    6 points
  2. Welcome to the forum... and stop doing that, you will go blind!
    4 points
  3. We are pleased to announce our 2nd course for 2022 EM Pinball Basic Repair Course Saturday June 25th 2022 first 5 to confirm by commenting below will be coming. Covering Intro and basic understanding of relays etc Start up procedures Score reel rebuild and switch adjustment Stepper unit rebuild and adjustment Demystifying score motors carousel and horizontal F S relays rebuilding and adjustment A X relays rebuilding and adjustment Player unit explanation and rebuild Fault finding Free play settings Common problems etc Cost of course $130 payable on the day commencing 8am finishing 1pm a 1/2 hour morning tea break at 10.30 we will provide refreshments. LUNCH will also be provided 5 people maximum. 8AM START Spanky looks forward to welcoming you to his Chapel.
    3 points
  4. I scored this great Bally EM pokie to add to the collection. It will operate and clean up nicely I am still looking for more Bally EM Pokies
    3 points
  5. I recond that's how I felt and looked after carrying one of those things up the two flights of stairs at the old Mayfield Bowl, NSW.
    3 points
  6. I am 90% sure those sticks are MCA like you said. Once you remove them they will likely have "MCA Australia" stamped on the top. Again, if you dont like the MCA's you will easily sell them. I was wondering if the Ultimarc MagStik Plus might suit as a replacement. Short throw distance, very solid construction and bat top as default. It does appear as though all the marquee lighting is missing. This place does very good repros when the time comes to hook it all up to your 4 slot - http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info/shop/ The first couple of buttons in the arcade cabinet you preferred, what brand were they? It is unfortunate that mixing parts on arcade cabinets was a common scheme back in the day, but makes our lives difficult now when we repair 🙂 The cab looks solid, so you have a good base to start thankfully!
    1 point
  7. Why do you think I'm wearing glasses? Always wear protection friend.
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. pm's sent out now after remembering how to send to multiple people 😛 please let me know if you havent received yours. see you all saturday
    1 point
  10. If you read above. I have come to terms with it. Sell me anything but a NIB..... Older games for me anyway.
    1 point
  11. Love this game ….without Russ 10.7 wouldn’t have happened for me and I would have missed this game… still no idea really what’s going on I just listen and watch what lights up…multi ball is the winner but the quick 2ball is always there if your accuracy is good enough as it can drain down the guts quiet easily….have both versions of deadpool but find jp original the best for me that’s my opinion 😁😁 had a couple of games then a ripper with heaps of quick multi balls so that help’s with the score 668,453,680 and I think there’s a bit more in me still the misses just shock her head and I think a soft swear work come out of her …haha she’s pissed
    1 point
  12. Hi Franky, I agree the purpose of this part of the circuit seeems obscure at first. It may help to note that the connection at pin 3 of the flyback transformer is not an additional winding added to power another part of the circuit, it is the negative end of the series of windings and diodes which provide the high Voltage to the anode and the grid Voltages. That means it is the 'return path' for any current which flows in the h.v. windings. In a simplified circuit this would be connected to ground, i.e. 0Volts. It isn't connected directly to ground, though. There is a small capacitor to ground C525 which would help to absorb high frequency transients and 'spikes' but the main current flow is via some resistors, with a capacitor C529 to smooth out the pulses. Why connect this end of the h.v. coils via resistors instead of just grounding the pin? To create a Voltage drop which can be used to control a transistor which will regulate the drive to the CRT cathodes. It is a current sensing circuit. As it's the negative end of the h.v. windings and diodes, current will flow into this point via the resistors. The greater the current 'load' on the high Voltage the more negative the Voltage at pin 3 will tend to become as the Voltage drop across the resistors increases. R512 which is connected to pin3 and C529 form a low pass filter, smoothing out the pulses from the h.v. coils. From this point the current flowing through R528 and R529 is a d.c. 'average' of the current flowing in the h.v. coils. As far as D.C is concerned, C529 is an 'open circuit' which is why R528 and R529 are in series, not parallel. The value of R529 determines the current which would begin to turn on Q501 and regulate the drive to the CRT cathodes. Assuming this occurs at about 0.6V between Emitter and Base of Q501, using Ohms Law I = V/R that current would be approx. 0.6 / 390 or about 1.5 mA. It doesn't seem like much but bear in mind 1.5mA at 24000 Volts or so represents about 36 Watts of power. The purpose of R528 in the 'middle' of the series of resistors would be to limit the current flowing from the base of Q501, preventing damage as well as allowing it to turn on more gradually in the case of a moderate h.v. current overload, regulating the drive to the CRT cathodes rather than suddenly cutting them off altogether. Hope that helps, regards John.
    1 point
  13. Welcome to AA, Brissie has the best arcade scene in Aus. Go and check out 1up Arcade at Morningside if you want to be in Neo Geo heaven.
    1 point
  14. Thanks mate …. I didn’t mean to be picky but everything was a 21 know that there’s 22 this old brickie can see the difference comp 😂😁
    1 point
  15. Tasfunkia 😂the Tassie Radelaide. Not too late, crack away.
    1 point
  16. “Hours of Acid Splashing Joy in the Mancave tonight !” I’d expect no less from you mate, very descriptive… ha!
    1 point
  17. too late for an old gamer to have a crack?
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. Yeah it's happened a lot of times, people generally say well I have changed all the caps so the problem can't be much now !! , in nearly every case caps had nothing to do with the issues they were trying to resolve anyway, then I have to spend more time repairing the crappy install of new caps, more time than if I had to replace them myself. As most people know I charge a flat rate for most chassis repairs, if that includes me having to change every cap on the chassis it doesn't extra, so trust me if a cap needs changing it's going to be changed, I do everything possible to not have to get chassis back and of course I want you to get back a chassis you are happy with. There is nothing techs hate hearing more from a customer than " It can't be much " , I usually reply with well you should be able to fix it yourself then! Cap Kits really are ridiculous, there are heaps of industries that use CRT monitors but it's only the arcade industry where people seem to think a cap kit is something normal or necessary.
    1 point
  20. Hi again, yes if you've already tried the Wii component cable into a HDTV which worked fine as well as a different source into the Palsonic TV component input with the exact same issues as pictured then I'd agree it really must be a problem within the TV itself - though I'm not sure if there would be a service menu setting to correct it or if it would be a hardware problem. I can't help with a service manual or service menu info for that model, sorry - anyone? Regards, John
    1 point
  21. 16.5k Fair dinkum thats a fair whack of the folding to fork out for a machine that you would expect being a brand new pin you should be able to assemble out of the box plug in switch on and play ive never had a new a pin n would find it extremely disheartning if i ever did buy a new pin only to find that i couldnt just play it straight up without having to fanny about with it first especially when if like me anything to techo is a struggle to understand these days
    1 point
  22. yep 1" and if you want to put 2 of them on each
    1 point
  23. If you were to use grease I would use silicon grease as it won't degrade rubber.
    1 point
  24. you need to fiddle with t hem when you put them back together. Bend the arms a little and get them back to working order. I do not think I have ever put one back together and had it work first time. without adjustment. Dave
    1 point
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