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Replaced the Exceleena 2 (gutted) with this Exceleena 1 (original). Replacement Joysticks and buttons to be sourced! Need my MiSTercade already so I can run some vertical games! Until then I'm just glad it's siting there.

Hey all, just a quick share from me. I’ve got a board with a TDA2002 amp. The sound output (volume) was very low. The sound was clear just very quiet, the volume pot worked. I checked all the earths and voltage test points and all ok. I initially changed out the amp but that didn’t fix anything, I then changed all the “big” caps in the amp circuit and that still didn’t change anything. I quickly checked the audio output wave using a mini cheap oscilloscope and it was very low but the form was ok. I checked the volume pot and that was ok, so I started on the smaller caps…. Turns out the 0.1uF and similar caps in the preamp mixer we’re the culprits, I changed two and got immediate results. Now I’ve just got to get a smaller cap kit and change them all out. Bite your tongue on my flux and solder. I tested the caps in circuit using my multimeter on cap test setting. That’s all really, just a lessons learned.

This is one AWESOME Stern Title and only gets better " In Lyman We Trust " Sweet Sweet Shooter best Stern LE in my stable 😊

The current draw from 5101's can vary a lot depending on the brand - the Philips PCD5101 is the most economical in terms of current draw out of all the 5101's made (& the fastest too) I have these in all the Bally games I have. I can get about 4 or 6 months memory backup from a 1.5 farad supercap with a PCD5101.

I have been wanting to do this mod for ages and could quite possibly be the first ball interactive game changing mod (could be wrong there) but finally put those holes near the apron to good use. This is using home printed parts and currently having professionally made parts made so will look better and it will light up.

Better than BM66LE? Surely a tie 🤣🤣

812,800 Only a million to go......

I see the vessel has just docked in Sydney.

649,280 finally full cleared thru the trapeze section. happy with this one

Pessimeister: 113, 750

27920 Incremental increase only. Haven't quite managed to defeat the second boss yet. Have a new puppy which is taking away the fun. Can't get in the zone

get a plastic straw, cut it up into 2 inch bits, from underneath slide one on each of the bits that are stopping the star falling out ..then gently push it up.. you can get complete inserts here, https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=c-900 you can get stars here - https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-miscellaneous/nylon-rollover-stars/ now you know how to get them out hopefully you can clean and reuse the ones you have?

So consider this an assembly rather than a full restore. The goal is to get what is here looking as good as it can without going "full resto" and spending a lot - as I don't have much. What I do have is some time, so let's use that... Simple things first I guess. 1st round of clean-up, just tried a slightly damp cloth to get all the junk off as it was stored without glass (prior to me getting it!) Lots of swirl to deal with. Almost all the paint is in good nick, just yellowed and swirly in heavy traffic areas. There is a tiny bit of planking and 2 worn spots from the left flipper, but otherwise quite OK looking. I must say I really like the bare timber integrated into some of the art... very cool. Tonight I tried some windex and magic eraser, as well as IPA and eraser. Still not really making any progress with the swirl. I have a feeling the magic erasers I have are off brand and junk. Cleaner yes, but still swirly: I also removed 2 broken bulbs that proved to be annoying to remove. Most of the lamp sockets actually look ok, but until I try and use them... I won't know.. Also found the knocker solenoid is burnt out, and a few other solenoids still have metal sleeves. Is it still a thing to replace these or just do it when replacing worn stops too? Underneath looks rather clean which is good. Also looks pretty complete (the flipper assemblies are somewhere in the cab I am sure) I'll keep chipping away...

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I have made up some Fluke 9010a Pod Protection Modules for my Marian Z80 and 6502/6800 reproduction pods. They will fit any pod unit if the correct resister values are fitted. Here is one of them assembled. And here is a set loaded into my Z80 pod. If you are assembling a repro or repairing a pod with faulty modules I have these available as a set of 5 bare boards, a kit of 5 board and parts or 5 assembled and tested modules.

This project is the one I enjoy working on the most at the moment. It's a modern take on a sit down cocktail cabinet. Curvy and without T-Molding but also featuring a big CRT screen. Here is the design I did for it and from which full scale cutting plans were created: This cabinet will run a small selection of games including variations of Pac-Man and few other games suited to a cocktail machine. It will run the latest GroovyMAME using CRT Emudriver and output video to the CRT (taken from a 27" flat screen TV) via a GreenAntz VGA-Component Transcoder. Most joinery in this design is by using threaded inserts and bolts, the cabinet can be dismantled as needed. I'm mostly using thick 32mm MDF for this (and some marine ply) so threaded insert/bolts make strong joins. The build is nearing completion but I'll share some of the initial construction details here first: The next steps will be to fit and adjust for the CRT and complete the base of the cabinet. Cheers Ond

Hi guys, As new machine, HUO only. Many mods included. - Playfield protector installed, complete cliffy set, red pinball leg bots, Medisinyl Mods Mech Gargoyle/Casket set with custom wording, Gonk's Dog House (with grass flasher piece), 2-piece grass set for the front flashers, Elvira's House of Horrors Shooter Knob, Topper, coin door sticker, red plastic protector set, purple titan rubbers. I am located in Adelaide and am happy to work with your preferred shipper. $24,950 Thanks for looking. - Con

as per photos. they are from pinball rescue. no longer needed. asking $40 for all, posted in a cardboard cylinder to anywhere in australia any questions ask away.

Nice work Jady, really like the idea. Do they work all the time or only during certain conditions. Love your work mate.

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Hi all, still repairing Asteroids PCBs, so I won't start a new thread on each fault. Symptom: all sounds work fine but "thump" only make clicks instead of the usual sound. Quickly checked the databus latches UN7, the chip is correctly clocked when the thump sound is supposed to be made and the latch outputs correctly change as the thump frequency is toggled. I have then checked the thump analog circuit that's built around uA555 at UN8 and Q2 transistor. All resistors and the capacitors tested ok (they can be tested in circuit without removing them), also Q2 junctions tested fine with a multimeter in diode mode. So I decided it must be UN8 and then removed and socketed it. Replacing UN8 did restore the thump sound BUT the actual sound was more "quack" than thump. Sound volume was somewhat higher than on other Asteroids board and sounded not so smoothed. Now the important thing is that this PCB was a -02 revision (I have previously worked on other boards that were all -04 revisions). The thump sound is low-pass filtered by R74 and C64 before being mixed to the other sounds. R74 and C64 tested fine (again, the test can be done in-circuit in this case). A close inspection to this part of the circuit however showed that C64 is connected between pin 3 of UN8 and ground! On the -04 revision instead C64 is connected between the other end of R74 (one end goes to pin 3 of UN8) and GND. This fact means two things: 1) there's no low pass effect 2) UN8 will eventually fail as it's directly driving a 100nF capacitor to ground without any current limit. So, I cut the trace between R74 (the pin 3, UN8 side) to C64, added a small jumper to the other end of R74 and C64. This restored the "normal" thump sound and will also ensure that UN8 won't fail again. HTH Frank IZ8DWF

Says a CE owner 🙂

Ha hah, yeah that's pretty much it some techie looking whizzo to intrigue (hopefully) 😁 Yep, I'm an Aussie who sold his soul to BYOAC. This forum will get the best build updates from now on though. I'll still post on Arcade Controls but less detail more summary than anything for that forum. That's a builder's view of the hobby isn't it. I'm not a gamer (though I love playing arcade games) I'm more of an artist-builder. I love the art of arcade machines and just spending blissful hours building them. I still do want to see my dream realized though, that's pretty important! OK, lets spend some time looking at the coin plate build and function. Like I said, really fun and challenging to build! Cutting a pattern in an acrylic disc: The result, a notch cut disc and in the background the 'eye' backlit with LEDs and a tiny LED array to light the acrylic disc. Red and yellow acrylic disks sandwiched with a semi opaque pearl white disc to diffuse lighting Making the "Core" - just PVC tubing and MDF This is the back of the spinning disc that goes in the core. Crude printed circuit board. See my (fictitious) company logo on therer? VMG which stands for Voorniscan Machina Group. The board on the other side populated with LEDS Making the cog out of MDF. Glue and screw each tooth on. Check it against the plan for eveness Tracing a pattern on to the rocket plate to be rebated Cog set into rebate. Chromed coin slot in place. First few coats of red go onto the rocket The Core, painted with decals added. This will be visible when the rear hatch of the cab is opened... Cut and form the tri-leg metal plate and populate with LEDs. The LEDs will be powered by a small chaser circuit I designed. The result is FLUX Capacitor joy. 😁 Build a vacuum press and form the acrylic dome for the Core Tri-plate in place covered by Acrylic dome Core set into cog with chrome bezel. To see the finished result working you can check out this video on my YouTube channel. Thanks for looking! Cheers Ond

1,011,120 Plunging to the left lanes up top seems to be the key to not getting house balls......

A long time member celebrating today @nmercury! Happy Birthday Nick, I hope you have a wonderful day 🙂

Final update. Marquee has arrived fresh from noodleshirt and looks fantastic backlit. Thanks for the result @MamePatrol Cheers, Brad

I don't think I would ever be able to keep up with the maintenance schedule!

try atlas steel, i bought 12m of 3.2mm stainless for about $20 cash. they even cut it into 4m lengths for me for free. i have a stainless tig welder at work. the hardest parts was getting neat consistent bends

A bit of isopropyl and a stiff brush will clean that flux right up. Well done, posts like these are guaranteed to help someone else in the future.

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ok changed direction again, just bought one of the first ps1 analoge controllers, the scph-1110 also called a ps1 flightstick. if all works as planned it should work with ps2 convertors for the 360 and the wii (gamecube)

We are finally back at our 'spiritual' home tonight for the BPC. Back to our regular format with qualifying open from 3pm at Netherworld. 10 game qualifying at your own leisure, all done by 9pm. Top 16 through to Best of 3 game elimination finals. $15 entry, see me to register before you begin. Cash payments only please. Don't forget to check in to the venue with the app on arrival and masks will still need to be worn, except when eating/drinking. IFPA WPPRs + QLD championship points up for grabs.

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Great to see you choose one way or the other. Better to let it start now than go back into storage not working for another 5 years. I fear the amount of machines out there in people's garages that have spent more time not working in there life than working. Would go a long way to explaining the shortage of working machines and therefore the current pricing. Either get them working or sell them on to someone that will do it now is what I preach. I don't suggest stripping but I hate nearly as much them sitting in a collection of gunners collecting dust completely out of circulation.

Pessimeister: 129, 550 A small humble PB.

Bump for great game and great seller 👍

That is a SWEET looking bartop cabinet

Machine now sold for 2.2k and headed to NSW. Donation made to AA. Keep an eye out for another 80B up for sale soon by me.

Happy Birthday! 😁

No, no. if there is one thing straya thrives on, that is a good drama. You could literally make a spin off of Coronation St just about the straya Pinball scene alone 🤣

See mate even when you NZers try to stay low you are still in it. 😂😂🤦‍♂️

I got mine last week. This is the most addictive game I’ve come across. It is so good. Aside from it being a beautiful machine to look at I think it shoots really well. Loving the rules so far. Got a lot to work out with scoring though. My playfield has washers on the slings but that’s it. No pooling at the moment with about 100 games on it. I did make up some bushes for the troublesome posts that seem to pool/chip. Had a little tweaking of the right ramp gate to do as the ball kept getting caught between the ramp and the drum stick. All sorted now and not one Hang up since. The rubbers are absolute garbage. Sling rubbers broke after 30 games. I’d be getting some others now ready to change them over if you have one coming. I did have some creasing in the decal where the backbox hinge pivots. I’ve been in touch with Paul and this is all sorted and I’m happy. So as far as my first NiB purchase has gone I really couldn’t be happier. The game is amazing and I can’t see this ever leaving my possession. I will add I blew a 150mil song jackpot during November rain yesterday and could have cried. I reckon I was a few seconds away from applause jackpot but too far away from the level increase when I drained.

Hiya friends, Hope you're all keeping safe and well. Outside of filtering through this thread and others on AA, I'm wondering if there are any recommended learning resources you can point me to (E.g. articles, blogs, videos etc.). I'm looking at dipping my toe into the world of Candy Cabs and am hoping for an overview of the basic system hardware and what each part does. Not every specific component, just those specific to CCs. I might have the opportunity to purchase a Naomi or Net City and would like to know what I need to start playing games. As a preface, I'm really into 'fighters' and would love to start with some SF Alpha 2 or Alpha 3 if possible. Many thanks and apologies if I am rehashing old conversations/discussions. Happy to be redirected elsewhere!

Another Lindbergh in the house (left). This time with a RE2 Multi. Looking forward to cleaning this up, getting some artwork and learning about the Ring Edge.

Completed restoring the marquee. I'm VERY amateur on image manipulation but am fortunate to have a Creative Cloud subscription through work. Those of you who waded through my EM Pinball restore would recognise what I've done but for a recap. Scanned the original marquee in 2 pieces as the scanner bed isn't big enough. Used Photoshop to merge to two images automatically and seamlessly into one Tidied up cracks and holes by copy/pasting from good areas Vectorised it using Vector Magic Made all like colours the same using Adobe Illustrator Exported to JPG, PNG, AI as options ready for printing Result below. I just need to send it off for printing onto a new Marquee so I can then see it in all it's backlit goodness 🙂 Edited to include original Original Restored

Got our refund in May