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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/20 in all areas

  1. Sold Please view this ad: Pinball Machine Howzat, https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/glen..._PostAdSuccess Price: $3,500 Download the application from the Google Play Store. https://tinyurl.com/n4b7djy
    4 points
  2. GoPro mounted inside a car tyre, it looks and acts like a heart. tle
    2 points
  3. Not all stainless grades will become dented as flaps is what I was saying, most are much harder than the common cheaper grades more widely used (316 is close to the softest most malleable, 304 better but still not it, the 2 most common, both inappropriate for flaps). There are hundreds of grades x hardnesses for stainless, many Are perfect for ramp flaps and Won't suffer like the old school flap material (corrode from atomosphere/contamination). Stainless of the right grades will also cold work harden, providing the grade starts off correct to prevent deformity. Cutting easily vs hardness is the conundrum for layman use. This is where "half hard" (half tempered) 301 gives a fair balance between not denting and workability. 301/302 is used for making Springs, it can be quite hard (depending on level of tempering), resists cracking, and wont dent on your flaps. :)
    2 points
  4. Pessmeister: 6, 780 Tiny improvement but I'll take every point I can get on this one.
    2 points
  5. I've had both actually, unfortunately you can't keep them all and these two are ones I'd like back especially T2. I want to have Fish Tales, Getaway and T2 side by side in the line up.
    2 points
  6. 1095 Tempered Blue Spring 0.20mm would be best for retaining shape. The stainless grades will dent like you said. Get 1095 Polished if you want the stainless look. Have it all written down somewhere. Rolls from US or locally sheets can be cut to size, but forget where.
    2 points
  7. Found these on the Arcade shop web site. But you'll have to wait until Covy is done as they're not delivering to us right now. Seams I missed the glaring red letters saying they're suspending all international deliveries until further notice. :lol ATM, my machine is making do with plane old push buttons. Maybe a treat for my next birthday. Originals were mega $$$$ and non existent... so though I'd share this find. From this site: Reproduction Atari lighted LED start button. Button includes a 6.8k resistor. If using this button on a custom build, a 29/64" hole is needed. Reference Atari part number: 62-039. http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1539/ata...ush-button.htm
    1 point
  8. we had to replace Hobbit stainless ramp flaps with Blue spring steel as they curl up and dent I do RFM flaps big enough for most peoples needs, of you you dont need much i have rolls of different sizes we use to make ramp flaps for games we reco
    1 point
  9. Here's some info: https://www.engineersedge.com/materi...ring-steel.htm There you can see the Brinell Hardness of Metal Spring Materials is considered to fall around 350-415 Brinell Hardness. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinel...#Common_values Here you can see some general typical Brinell hardness values. http://ess-steel.com/docs/301-stainl...data-sheet.pdf Here is an interesting data sheet for 301 that actually contains Typo's in the Table. This is one of the downfalls of the "Rockwell Hardness" standard that is ironically also a benefit, they use a letter prefix for Separate Scales (types of test) not really comparable to each other. "C" for hard metals, "B" for softer metals. It can lead to confusion. All of the RH numbers except the top one there are supposed to have a "C" prefix because Now they are Hard metal. That is why the numbers do not add up, not linear direction. Look at the Brinell value instead for relationship. 316 and 304 both come under Rockwell "B" scale generally, they are considered soft metals. 301 comes (usually) under the Rockwell "C" scale because it is considered hard metal. The roll (half hard) in the Ebay link is "HR C32" which is "HB 297" . Mild steel is "BH 120", with low yield. Brinell is easier for comparing. Full hard 301 has twice the Brinell value as treated 304. Half Hard 301 is still 50% greater Brinell value than treated 304. Then there is "yield". 301 is alot higher yield than 304, meaning it will take more deformity before changing shape, springier :) Metals are complicated man! :blink: Moral of the story is, No, you can't effectively use common garden variety stainless "shim stock" for ramp flaps. You do really want to get the right s#it if you're going to do it. You know what they say ... "Oils ain't Oils!!" ;)
    1 point
  10. All reserves were included in the PM's i sent out as i knew there will be some people pulling out of the day. All good to come along guys
    1 point
  11. I think I've come to terms that it may possibly be dead lol Regarding super glue and Bi carb.. I watched this video and I've been doing it on everything plastic
    1 point
  12. Wanted to buy SW premium. looking for a low plays HUO example in sydney preferably. PM if you are considering moving one on. cheers J
    1 point
  13. also if you have a Snackbar Mod a fellow aussie that lives in the UK has modded the mod with a cool rgb lighting upgrade This mod will suit the Snackbar Mod neon light blade versions v2,3,4 and 5 (not v1 as el wire) This mod will suit the sign which is on v3,4 and 5 and there is a backward compatible sign kit for the v1 and 2
    1 point
  14. I believe Bill does go up there
    1 point
  15. Nice jump in score and picked up a place when you got it.
    1 point
  16. not sure what happened there mate, can see it this end all posts cleaned gobble hole metal plates painted and cleared
    1 point
  17. Thanks for the reply.. The unit underneath the glass doesn't appear to be broken.. There was definitely no continuity from the severed wire to the two points (yellow and blue) The yellow and blue wires were so fragile everytime I used the wire stripper, it would rip off the cable clean.. I eventually got wires stripped and soldered and then there was another point that got severed which I hoped didnt :( 4 of the 5 screw holes had come off which were still fortunately intact, but I think the sag is what caused the wires to be severed. Since they were still all intact, I was able to bond it back using the super glue and bi carb soda trick The weirdest part of me was the fact that I pronged the blue and yellow points and they have continuity to each other.. As well as the red/green points on the unit. The other two points don't have continuity to each other though. Finally should there be more sensors? This is really a strange one and I think the screen is just faulty :(
    1 point
  18. Mate, considering the price and avaliability of backglasses like that Star Trek and your ability to do excellent translites, maybe that is something you would think of?. Not like there isn't demand and lets face it, there will always be idiots that say to themselves, "I'll just put this backglass on the siderails for a second and be careful":o
    1 point
  19. The broken glass wouldn't be the problem - its just glass IF it hasn't interfered with the touchpanel underneath the black adhesive strip - hard to tell from the pic. That wiring might have been severed before? or do you think you did it? Your driver board is OK because it can be seen by Windows. Its definitely your touchscreen overlay / wiring. If the wire wasnt damaged before hand. If you have a meter test for continuity on the resoldered wire. If thats OK then check the flat cable between drive board and touch screen - it my be protected by glue. Typically you buy the overlay with the flat ribbon cable. Diagnostic doesnt look good :( Let us know how you go Cheers
    1 point
  20. Used to play 20c a game for heaps of 90s fighters in the mid 90s at north ryde rsl. They had a games room with classics like street fighter 2, fatal fury, snow bros and mortal kombat. My parents would hand me and my bro $5 while they went off to watch a movie, would last us for hours. Cheap babysitting in hindsight lol
    1 point
  21. What does intuitive mean.. how do u even say that word..
    1 point
  22. LOL. Well at least it wasn't as bad as this ... :lol
    1 point
  23. As one of Leighs closest neighbours and a Penrith local I suggest that Leigh invites just me to play, adhearing to social distancing guidelines.:p
    1 point
  24. Ah sorry about that, i thought i had shared it, have now checked sharing permissions and it should be accessible now
    1 point
  25. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z8AvResGxbtUMCrIpZdnAd45yEFtbYYD/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/14sBp5CPRTyqVhi0dfcszKlU_TuVIq9fi/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/17iHydO7fuUbjf_oZTB4CsqqJAkZ6YC2_/view?usp=sharing
    1 point
  26. Damn you Covid-19 I should be getting ready for a great weekend of Pinball & Mates
    1 point
  27. Just finished my Tz znd Creech replacements as well, few tweaks, hard to photograph lit up.
    1 point
  28. I have sold machine , but did find a couple of pics .the one of lock down is close to true , but doesn't come up as good in pic , nicer in real life . The Other One of machine, its a darker pic . No where near that dark , more gold . Probably not the best example of result. But thats all i could find.
    1 point
  29. I did gold and black hammer tone on LOTR and it looked great . At that time i thought if i was going to do my TOM i would go down the same road . Very happy with outcome
    1 point
  30. Take 2... My idea on an alternate to the original...
    1 point
  31. I'm looking at making them locally Grunta soon, sick of waiting for pinbits etc. I have quite a few title profiles ready. Ive hand made my own for a alot of games (including Centaur shooter lane). I will be getting more material and talking to laser cutters over the next month or two to look at options. Im not as techo as RPZ but the ones I have made have made me full hard !
    1 point
  32. Those grades of stainless used for shims will dent/bend fairly easily (304 / 316), these are the wrong grades to resist deformation. This is like what was originally used on The Hobbit which were the subject of a service bulletin and update. http://www.atlassteels.com.au/docume...Aug%202013.pdf 301 sheet is suitable, but full hard will be more difficult to work with (cut). Half Hard 301 stock about 0.25mm thick is what I would use. I can't guess what JJP used for their updated flaps. https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1217425160...CABEgIuXPD_BwE Blackwoods is good for convenience, but for some things you might need to pawn some teeth and a kidney to pay the premiums Lol The other thing is, these days, you can find Laser Cutting services whom will supply the material and cut to your desired outlines. By laser cutting this way saves work, schmick finish of cuts (and no deformation from mechanical cutting or shearing), and means you could go the Full Hard 301 grade (of a thinner guage even). For this though quantity saves $$$ so a job lot would be a good idea.
    1 point
  33. The moral to this thread was to show the learners that not every fault the machine displays is accurate. In fact sometimes can cause more problems due to a false interpretation. We should do more of these as a training game. Well done @gt-ray .
    1 point
  34. WE HAVE A WINNER- CONGRATULATIONS.
    1 point
  35. As a youngen i used to pay 60c for street fighter 2 and $1 for 2 plays. Then as time went on $1 a play became the norm
    1 point
  36. I am officially COVID-free, got the testing results SMS today, so I'm still in. See you all there.
    1 point
  37. PM;s have been sent out, please let me know if i missed anyone
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. It's been two month from my last report. Now both june and july posting in one report. The three System-9 games (Comet, Space Shuttle and Sorcerer) got their Tech Charts now. Bally Spy Hunter has gotten a total review and is complete with score insert strips. The same goes for Williams Word Cup, complete with score strips. Over time more games will get these score strips added. A few coil wrappers are added on request. A lot of minor changes in some files, mostly corrections. Just take a look in the listing below. Enjoy pinball and stay safe, Peter http://www.inkochnito.nl If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal. 30 june 2020 changes New made or updated card files: Bally 4 Queens zip file added Bally Spy Hunter cards added to zip file Gottlieb Bronco cards added to zip file Gottlieb score cards added to the listing Stern Big Game Tech Chart corrected Williams Comet Tech Chart corrected Williams Magic City cards added to zip file Williams Sorcerer Tech Chart added 31 july 2020 changes New made or updated card files: Bally Dr. Dude Tech Chart corrected Bally Hi-Lo Ace zip file added Stern J-25-450 34-4500 coil wrapper file added Williams A-15016 coil wrapper file added Gottlieb Big House zip file corrected Stern Disco zip file corrected Williams Comet Tech Chart corrected Williams Dipsy Doodle cards added to zip file Williams Expo cards added to zip file Williams Skill Pool card added to zip file Williams Sorcerer Tech Chart corrected Williams Space Shuttle Tech Chart added Williams Terminator 2 cards added to zip file Williams World Cup cards added to zip file
    1 point
  40. Well mates. This is it. Time to raise a glass to the joy, mayhem and fun that would have been the opening night of BPAC 2020. But fear not, we have a bunch of content coming your way plus our new merch store is now live. Please check out the link below for a run of never before seen tees, plus classic posters and marquees. https://bpac.bigcartel.com/ Also please keep a close eye on our socials in the coming days and weeks as BPAC joins up with Tyson from Pinball, Arcade & Retro TV (PARtv) to bring you a swag of interviews with the winners, specials guests and legendary humans behind BPAC 2019. PARtv is a new and growing video content creator for classic pinball, arcade and retro gaming. Be sure to jump on their new page and show them your support. facebook.com/groups/911468836032322 If you can drop by Newstead Brewing Co too. The amazing souls from Newstead were set to be the greatest hosts we have every had. Bring on 2021 mates!! Stay safe. Stay well Big love, the BPAC Massive
    1 point
  41. Thanks to all that have liked and responded to my first post of my restoration. I appreciate all the offers given and will take all of them up when needed so you will hear from me if you haven’t already! See below for the next instalment. The parts pile was building and still being added to. I needed to start doing something to start the build. I didn’t have a cabinet but had a shagged playfield but did have a used translite and speaker panel so decided to start making the speaker assembly first just to get started. I removed the panel from my Getaway and used this as the template. I measured the MDF thickness and sourced the timber. If you know your T2 machines you know the speaker panel is different than all the machines after it, the viewing panel is actually lower on the T2 and the DMD is held in position by 2 brackets not the just the 4 Speaker type screws. The brackets would be impossible to find I thought so I just modelled the Panel on the Getaway just dropping the viewing panel. I had sourced all the screws, T Nuts, H Channel and speaker mesh which required painting Red. I used a router to recess the areas for the mesh in my panel and then used the router bit in a drill press to recess the T Nut positions. The speaker mesh I had was for WPC 95 so had to trim, paint and stapled into position when it came to it. I didn’t have any speakers and thought best to try and get original speakers. Placed a wanted add here on Aussie Arcade and @Manny65 came through with a set from a TZ and some useful information regarding the soundboard. Once they arrived, I fitted everything prior to painting to see if there were any issues. It all fitted so painted everything up. Once Paint was dry, fitted all again but had a problem. The speaker mesh pattern is different when rotated 180 degrees and I fitted one side different to the other! hard to notice but I did! and changed accordingly. I had sourced a second hand DMD and fitted with a secondhand Wax Cardboard backing. I did a test run in my Getaway and all good I had a working panel! I tried to buy an original U channel which the speaker panel sits in but sold out so bought some Aluminium channel from Bunnings and painted up which come up great!
    1 point
  42. You've really got to search for it, not noticable during gameplay, so luckily not a huge issue for most people. After detailed searching, I can see some 'waves' on Black Knight, Iron Maiden, Guardians of the Galaxy, Star Wars LE, Aerosmith. Which makes sense to only go back to around there, as that is pretty close to around the time Stern cut ties with their old playfield manufacturer.
    1 point
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