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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/20 in all areas

  1. I can see this is a massive hit with the people. As expected, everyone loves it!
    3 points
  2. Finally started the cab for the play football not sure if I’ll do it’s own thread I keep forgetting to take photos Also given the holly crane a tidy up shocking thing to photo so sorry for the heap I had to add Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3 points
  3. This will be a series of posts on how specific components work on a game board. Its purpose is to help you understand how the circuitry works. Feel free to add to the series if there's a topic you want to cover. First up: Reset! You'll typically see the signal defined as RESET with a bar over the top. In normal text like this where we don't have a bar over the top we write it with a slash in the front like this: /RESET. This bar signifies it's an Active Low signal. Normally the reset line is high (for most CPUs...) and you take it to logic low to reset the CPU and have it restart. Some CPUs will start up in a random state while others, like the Z80 will appear to be dead until you give it a /RESET pulse so without it the game will never start. CPUs do different things when the /RESET is applied. They set the internal registers to a known state, clear interrupts, and start executing the program code. Z80s and many others start at 0000h (h = hexadecimal address) while the 6809 looks to address FFFE and FFFF for the 16bit address of where to start executing code. So the first thing you check is for physical damage... the second, the clock, and the third is /RESET when a game doesn't want to boot. If you have a logic probe with audio, it's easy to hear the logic level change of low to high when the game is powered on. That lets you know the reset circuit is working. Some boards have a watchdog - if the CPU doesn't write to a location in memory, or do something else like read it to periodically reset the watchdog, the watchdog will reset the CPU. This is normal and signifies something else is wrong. More on that later in this series.
    2 points
  4. Dear all, I am attempting to build a dream arcade replica of something I always wanted since I was a child but could never play. I only managed to play Space Invaders on an Apple 2. My parents never let me play with the arcade versions. They were usually in dingy smoke filled arcades with undesirable hustlers (at least thats what my parents warned me). I am planning to build one. Could the kind people of this forum help me with the following, 1) Art scans for side, kick panel, CPO, screen, etc. (the downloaded scans I have found so far are not really accurate or sometimes low res) 2) Dimensions for the Japanese 1978 version cabinet (also available in the UK I think) including panel thickness. 3) Dimensions for the inside panels holding the CRT screen and one-way mirror. 4) Where can I purchase this one-way mirror or is it just plain glass with some reflective tinting? 5) Where do I get the striped edging for the cabinet panels. 6) Advice on which emulator would be the best to use (raspberry pi?). 7) Any other valuable info I can use for this build. Please refer to the pictures for the cabinet I am hoping to build and the CAD drawing I have made so far which is obviously not proportioned. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. BR, Daniel Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
    2 points
  5. Not sure if anyone else on here watches this every year, but the 2020 Revision party is on again - just this time all streamed because of reasons. Plenty of great old school computer (and console) demos, tunes and more. The stream is live here until Monday: https://www.twitch.tv/revisionparty with the schedule here [TWITCHchannel]revisionparty[/TWITCHchannel] Couple of notable things worth checking out from the weekend so far too - Old Skool demo comp - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=07h09m05s (there's BBC Micro and more too!) Amiga intro comp - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=05h23m13s "Copy that floppy" Demoscene preservation seminar - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=07h48m34s ASCII/ANSI/PETSCII graphics comp - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=01h18m36s Old Skool music comp - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=01h35m10s Modern animation/video - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589179638?t=02h57m56s [twitch]589179638[/twitch] Music Tracker comp - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589053870?t=00h15m57s [twitch]589053870[/twitch] Creating a better Amiga PSU - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/589188734 (with the guy who owns icomp.de) [twitch]589188734[/twitch] There's also a seminar on repairing old computers tonight (12/4) at 8pm on their Twitch channel, and more Amiga/old skool stuff starting at 6am tomorrow morning too (but it'll be clipped/recorded, so that's good!)
    2 points
  6. I have had a look at the schematic . I can't see how the game should start if the anticheat switch is closed but the replay button contacts are open (ie button not pressed) IF all wiring is per original design . I also don't know what the "metal bit" is you are referring to , but it seems that using the screw driver you are effectively closing (ie passing earth through) the anti cheat switch ? I would suggest with multimeter on continuity setting check that the following switches are closed ( with ball count unit at zero position and replay unit at zero position) .. 1.. ball count unit zero position switch, 2. replay unit zero position switch, 3. anti cheat switch . If any measure as open but look physically closed then clean the switch contacts . IF game is wired as per original design then game should start when replay button (ie start button) is pressed if those other 3 switches are closed .
    2 points
  7. For both T2 machines that I have upgraded speakers on, I followed the Tony suggested way to wire up. Being 4 ohm speakers for the backbox with lpad. Cabinet for T2 only , I upgraded the size to 8 inch and kept the suggested 8 ohm speaker impedance. Also used a crossover. Sound is fantastic, I love T2 and the Arnie call outs , a speaker upgrade is a must in my opinion. I’ve also tried the pinsound option... wasn’t for me, went back to original board with my speaker upgrade . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  8. https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/pinball/pinball-aa/pinball-part-s-purchasing-co-op
    2 points
  9. normal dimpling,decal on switch plate in front of hulk slightly worn.
    2 points
  10. Necro bump... I finally got the doc to where I wanted it after a bit more work. It's 40 pages long and on the way to you. Edit: Thanks to another reviewer, it has more pictures, a minor tweak to the note about the DIPs and is up to 44 pages. :)
    2 points
  11. Wow I can’t believe you managed to save this what a top effort Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  12. Sold pending payment/collection
    2 points
  13. So after booting it up sounded all good, but there were under half of the feature lamps cycling through in attract mode. Can get most to work intermittently but they are very flaky. Started a game, flippers worked well, drops weren't resetting the first try most of the time, slings and pop bumper not firing. Next night I came back to it for a better look. Had a look at the drop targets and adjusted the back plate as it felt like things were a bit tight and this might be causing the targets not to reset the first time. After starting up a game the Q3 transitor on the driver board, the knocker, fried and exploded. The knocker was not connected when I got this game so maybe should have checked it out a bit more. Tthe right sling coil wrong and cooked the transistor, so with the wiring unsoldered from that sling the rest of the solenoids worked. The drops were resetting well and pop bumper working. In test mode the only issue that come up was the 3 of the 6 bank memory coils weren't dropping the targets, thinking this is due to mod I did to raise the targets slightly so will pull it out and adjust. The star rollovers still need a bit of work to get the inserts to move freely. Will give them another round of sanding , but feel like they might be catching on the lower part of the insert where I don't want to go near in case I break it.
    2 points
  14. I found this cab recently. Seems complete apart from top of joystick and CPO? Has anyone come across one of these and/or know the cab shape used for other games? I can’t find any pics online. It has what looks like the blue bootleg boardstack. I haven’t turned on yet or tested anything. I think it’s a good looking cab and one I will fully restore and enjoy. if anyone has owned, played or seen one in the wild can they let me know what the CPO looked like. I doubt it was like the cocktail as that’s very black? But the cocktail instruction I have are the same artwork. A mystery is the sideart underneath that LAI converted it from? A previous owner cleaned it off. Does anyone recognise it? The artwork was painted over with black. I can see “HA..� before artwork covers it and “88� above.
    1 point
  15. Slowly coming together. I’m back at work tonight so won’t be any progress for a bit I don’t think Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  16. They had one of these with Gyruss at Las Vegas in Brisbane. Such a cool cab, highly impractical and tall but unbelievably cool. And it is half the reason Gyruss it's still my favourite game today.
    1 point
  17. Edit- pics didnt go in order but you get the idea Ok heres a few pics, first one is original Lai upright but i think someone has either painted or stickered over the original artwork but i am pretty sure the other bubble dome cab is an original Moon Patrol which has good remnants of artwork on cp so i would assume be the same for a standard dedicated Lai upright
    1 point
  18. That signs mint 👌 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. @Rawdon negotiated with Marco for better shipping for us here in OZ about a year ago but I can't remember where the post is:redface. Failing that I started up a shopmate account as mentioned by @swinks and found it to be quite user freindly and the best thing is you can order stuff from multiple sellers and have it all sent to the one shopmate address where they will weigh it all etc. then give you freight quote for the lot. Shopmate is affiliated with Auspost.
    1 point
  20. maybe seem if this is possible https://shopmate.auspost.com.au/
    1 point
  21. There were some tweaks made to the shaker intensity, increasing it a bit (perhaps too much lol). There is talk of this being returned to more like previous. Looks like there will end up being a degree of choice in this, by staying with 1.4.0 ... alternatively some minor tweaks to the shaker settings, and possibly other aspects, will be available in the coming release of 1.4.1 Love the new lightshows! .... and the cycling Red/White destroy inserts are much more noticable than they were. :cool:
    1 point
  22. I used this one from RS Online. It was $37 when I got it last year. I have used the original pot and it works/sounds fine. Just the volume can't get to zero, I haven't looked into that fixing that yet. https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/speaker-drivers/0512796/
    1 point
  23. Hulk , Avengers LE exc backglass 10/10 cabinet 9/10 comes with new head side decal which needs applying.playfield 8/10 green light up flipper buttons and speaker surrounds,shaker, with nearly complete new plastics set. $7800 pick up nerang .
    1 point
  24. Cheers guys, I am so stoked with the finished product. @Railways Thanks for your side rails, it made the pin look complete once I peeled off the protective coating. @robm Did a lot of things for the first time in this restore and was really happy I gave the minor board repairs a go myself.
    1 point
  25. Yep, if I can swing a 2 Tonne lift motor into place, I can move a big slightly heavy sign. Please note that I used Load Bearing Esky's. They are rated to two adults standing on them for footy watching purposes....safety first :D
    1 point
  26. hey mate i used this as a reference and found it pretty helpful http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#lamp
    1 point
  27. You've done a great job mate. Looks sensational Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  28. 10min Morty: "The Biggest mystery is if Rick can do a day without being an Asshole!" 13min Rick: "You're the Extra Ball Robot, you bring the extra ball." Also just realising how tall this topper really is! :o
    1 point
  29. I am not sure I'd play again for 1 point between 1st and 2nd 😆 And there already is a colour DMD, malenko did it after I suggested it as an option since he loves doing "firsts", it's up on VPU. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    1 point
  30. I'll play it again just to make Wob have to. I can't explain it, this table is very much a one shot wonder however I don't hate it. It is the most DMD like game by Jed rulings that I've ever played though. It does look very pretty and the VPX recreation was one that has been done very well. I'm confident it would be a really easy DMD colorisation project for someone as well. I think Wob may already have a dump to use as well.
    1 point
  31. RESMED to the rescue! It's fantastic a company that was started by an aussie, in Australia, is able to manufacture ventilators here in Australia. Hopefully our government and population learn from this pandemic the importance of manufacturing in Australia, instead of being totally dependant on foreign import...
    1 point
  32. 371,140 Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. Any improvement is a good improvement. It's a good sign of progress. Then there are cases where a gamer scores well once, and for the rest of the tournament they cannot get a higher score. :026:
    1 point
  34. When China starts to ramp up again Australia will benefit sooner than the US, there will be a decent bounce as things get back on track. The US is in for a rougher ride... >70c in July ;)
    1 point
  35. I've messaged Chris. Charlie is happy to hold off on Aussie production games until we want him to go ahead.
    1 point
  36. Got onto the playfield last weekend after doing some other prep work I used a heat gun to get the vinyl wrap off the rails. The glue residue remains and is still a bitch to get off. Had a few common issues appear that I found out about for the first time, First one was the clear blocking up the star inserts Initially thought this was major problem but with a lot sanding emery boards they nearly fit. Just tested with the swithes installed and they need a bit more sanding to move freely. The other one was that the decals for the drop targets sat a bit lower than original. Didn't want to buy another set of decals to fix this so added a 2mm bit of plastic to the mechto make the decals sit higher. I haven't done the 6 bank yet but will either do the same or adjust the drop target themselves. So have taken the drops off the playfield until I get the rails painted. Got onto the underside.I had the loom all marked up but half the labelling came off when it went through the dishwasher. Didn't really matter as its a pretty simple loom and had plenty of photos. Once the loom was on it came together pretty quick. Nearly got most things installed until I get an order from the US Flippers- awaiting 1 right rebuild kit and the three bushings. Also need to make the switch stack for the lower right flipper. Slingshots - one arm was broken, arm is very close to a WPC one. Ordered both WPC arm and foot. Foot was slightly different so ended up using the original stern with new arms on both sides. Just need to a couple of roll pins to finish off the slingshots.
    1 point
  37. Hey TNA owners, have you modified your game in any way from how it arrived from the factory to make the game play a tad easier? So I'm not the greatest player to start with, but this game is especially kicking may ass. The super bouncy rubbers and mega powerful slings and bumper make almost any wrong move on the lower play field fatal. I love this game, but there are times if Scott Danese had of been standing right next to me during some of my 'more frustrating' games I would have punched him in the face! I'm currently running the factory settings and have not yet changed the outlines. Has anybody else made / considered making adjustments to their game in any way to make it a little less brutal?
    1 point
  38. TOTAL ANNIHILATION Pinball TNA is now on location at the Lansdowne Hotel in Chippendale. Right next to it is an Iron Maiden pro if anybody in Sydney is interested in giving them both a spin. I must admit, I was tempted to keep TNA a bit longer before putting it out there, because my son and I were having so much fun playing it!
    1 point
  39. Yeah it's a genre. It's called lots of things. Sythwave. Outrun. Etc. I. E. What people In the 80s thought the future was going to go be like.
    1 point
  40. TOTAL ANNIHILATION Pinball I remember seeing that a while ago. I couldn't put my finger on what it reminded me of. Perhaps some randomish rpg game on steam. Edit : far cry : blood dragon? Retro futurism?
    1 point
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