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  1. Hi all, @yngbld and I have been working on some Taito Chase H.Q. PCB repairs and the subject has turned to using our analog Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes (CROs) for fault tracing. With far more powerful digital storage devices now available it seems to be a common misconception that analog scopes are useless against faults in digital circuits so I'm hoping we can debunk that myth and share a few tips and tricks along the way. We'll try and keep this topic on test methods but use the Chase H.Q. PCBs, working and not as our test subject for the moment. For anyone who isn't familiar with these units I'll begin by trying to summarise the controls. If I gloss over any details too much let me know and I'll try to address that in the next post. Most CROs have fairly standardised controls, beginning with display intensity, focus and scale illumination. The intensity will vary a great deal with changing sweep rates and triggering frequency so will often need to be adjusted along the way. The trace(s) only need to be bright enough to see clearly in the given light conditions, too bright and the beam will flare, the focus control will be unable to sharpen the image. Next the Horizontal display mode; these CROs pictured all have a dual timebase and delay triggers - meaning they can setup a trace of a regular trigger event then 'zoom in' on a small portion of that trace by using a variable delay and a higher sweep rate to display a small section of the original trace in greater detail. To begin with we'll just use the main, A timebase and set this control to 'A' The <Position> control shifts the traces horizontally on the display and can be used to centre the trace so neither side appears cut off and to vary the fine position of a waveform to align it with the graticule, useful for comparison of timing between two signals. Channels The channel mode switch sets the display to a single channel, 1 or 2, dual trace mode or 'add' which displays the sum of the two inputs. By using the invert switch on Ch. 2 we can also see the difference between the two inputs. Both functions can be quite useful for digital signals, not only analog for example if we have two signals entering an AND gate and we can't easily tell if they are ever both high at the same time we can 'add' them. The display will show a higher Voltage when both signals are simultaneously high. In dual channel mode the display will either 'alternate' or 'chop' between the two traces. in 'chop' mode the relative timing between the two signals is more relevant, both traces being drawn in a single sweep but at higher sweep rates the switching between traces can obscure some of the signal displayed so the most suitable choice is determined by the type of measurement. To begin with we'll start with just one channel and set the mode switch to Ch. 1. Trigger By this stage if there isn't already a trace on the screen it could be there is no relevant signal to trigger a sweep. Common trigger modes are Auto, Normal and Single. In 'Normal' mode there will be no horizontal trace unless the trigger conditions are met. In 'Single' mode only one sweep will occur when triggered, until manually reset. In 'Auto' mode the horizontal sweep will free run at the selected 'time per division' rate if the trigger conditions are not met. In 'Auto' mode the CRO displays continuously, although the waveform may roll across the screen until the trigger is correctly set there is an instant indication of signal presence and Voltage range. For most troubleshooting work this is my preferred setup so we'll begin with the trigger mode set to 'Auto' The signal source for the trigger circuit can be selected from Channel 1 or 2, an additional (external) input signal or 'line' which will trigger the CRO in sync with the AC mains - useful for looking at hum in linear power supplies for example. To begin with we'll set our trigger source to Ch.1 There are also different types of coupling or filtering for the trigger signal; AC or DC coupled, HF reject which reduces the high frequency sensitivity to allow triggering on low frequency content within the trigger signal and some CROs also have a specific TV trigger mode which triggers on either the horizontal or vertical sync frequency depending on the sweep rate selected. If there is no 'TV' trigger mode, the HF reject selection will allow the trigger circuit to reject the higher frequency horizontal sync and trigger on the vertical sync component in a composite sync signal. Finally, there is usually a trigger slope switch which will cause the trigger circuit to detect either a positive or negative transition. In the case of something like a composite video signal which is not symmetrical, has a varying average Voltage as well as a negative going sync signal a DC coupled negative slope trigger should be the most effective. For now though we'll leave it set to the 'default' AC, positive slope settings. Timebase The sweep rate which I've already mentioned is set by the larger knob, being the A timebase Time per Division control. By increasing or decreasing the speed of the horizontal sweep higher or lower frequency signals can be displayed and their period measured in milliseconds, microseconds or even nanoseconds for higher bandwidth oscilloscopes. In X-Y mode the display does not sweep horizontally, rather is driven in both X and Y axes by the external input signals as well as intensity which can be determined by an external signal applied to the Z axis input, often found on the rear panel of the CRO, if present. For starters we'll set our sweep rate to 0.5 milliseconds per division to view the CRO's internal test / calibration signal. So to recap our CRO would initially be set for 'A' timebase, Ch. 1 input, Auto trigger on Ch.1, AC, positive slope, 0.5 milliseconds per division. Probes Inputs to the Oscilloscope are usually via BNC connectors. For PCB troubleshooting a purpose made probe with fine tip and a removable clip for attaching to test points is ideal. Such probes are often '10x' or have a switch to select between 1x and 10x operation. A 10x probe actually divides the connected signal by 10 (so the measured signal is 10 times larger than indicated by the input range selected on the CRO). Some Tektronix models (and probably others), have a feature where the input range selected is indicated by an illuminated segment on the dial which changes when a compatible 10x probe is connected, automatically indicating the correct Voltage range. For most other models it is necessary to remember that with a 10x probe a voltage measured will be 10 times greater than indicated. For example to view a 5V logic signal with a height of 1 division on screen the 0.5V per division Voltage range would be used. For 10x operation there is also usually a frequency compensation trimmer on the probe or plug body which can be adjusted using the CRO's internal test / calibration signal which we'll cover soon. Signal ground In order to correctly display a signal the input ground of the CRO needs to be connected to the 0V circuit ground of the device under test. To keep stray or unwanted 'noise' signals to a minimum a very short earth link from the ground at the probe can be connected to circuit ground at some close point to the signal being tested. While this is ideal in theory it is often difficult to find a nearby ground point which the short ground lead can securely connect to. If the ground clip is not secure and slips off the ground point in use it can actually short out some other point on the PCB under test. To avoid the need to relocate the short earth lead and clip every time a new point on the PCB is tested, I prefer instead to use a longer earth lead directly from the CRO front panel ground point to the circuit ground (0V) on the PCB under test (see the green wire in picture above) and remove the short ground lead from the probe. Although some additional noise may be picked up by the longer ground lead the risk of accidentally causing a short to the PCB is reduced as well as the time wasted finding a new ground point whenever a different part of the PCB is to be tested. Cal / Test signal Most CROs will also have a small test point on the front panel, useful for checking the basic functions of the equipment as well as the probes and also for setting the high frequency compensation in the case of 10x probes. It is usually a 1kHz square wave and on this unit the level is 0.6V p-p. As I'm using a probe set to 10x ratio I'll set the Channel 1 Voltage range to 50mV per division. Initially setting the input coupling switch to ground and adjusting the vertical position to line up with the graticule (one line above centre in this case), then switching to DC coupling and adjusting the trigger level for a stable display we should see our test signal like so: At 1kHz a full cycle of our square wave test signal will take 1 millisecond - at 0.5 ms / div that should repeat every 2 divisions on screen and we can see some miscalibration either in our timebase or the test signal itself. Likewise our Voltage scale is reading just over 7 minor divisions rather than 6 as expected. In a laboratory situation this would be well outside tolerance and the CRO long overdue for recalibration but for troubleshooting work the exact readings are not so critical. Usually any logic level signals are simply compared with our supply and ground Voltages, which are set with a digital multimeter. Likewise any exact frequency measurements should normally be taken with a frequency counter rather than derived from the CRO display. Connecting a second probe now and switching to dual channel mode the second probe requires a slight adjustment to its frequency compensation to correct the rounded appearance of our square wave. These simple checks should be made regularly and can be done to verify the correct operation of the equipment if any test measurements seem incorrect. So, having set up and checked our CRO it's time to view some actual signals from our PCB on the bench, beginning with our RGB video sync signal. We'll connect our ground lead to the PCB ground and our Ch.1 probe to the composite sync output at C128. We'll also connect the Ch. 2 probe to the Red output signal, in this case at the video connector itself. Initially looking at Ch. 1 only, at 0.1V / div (10x) and our timebase at 10 microseconds per division, trigger set to DC, negative slope and adjusting our trigger level to show a stable image we can see the horizontal sync signal at the start of our trace, repeating towards the right of screen. This represents one line interval of approximately 60 microseconds. Switching to dual channel, chop in this instance we can see the red component of the video signal on Ch. 2 at 0.2V per division, DC coupled. This represents one line interval but the display is actually showing every line superimposed rather than one single line of video. To display one single line will require the dual timebase and delay trigger. Being a display of the video lines, the information seen on the display represents the (red) video from left to right of screen and the horizontal blanking period before and after horizontal sync can also be observed. Now changing our trigger mode to HF reject and our horizontal scan rate to 2 milliseconds per division, readjusting our trigger level to obtain a stable display we can see the vertical interval with the vertical sync to the left of display and again near the right. We can also see the horizontal sync pulses inbetween, faintly but in this setup those are ignored by our trigger due to the HF reject setting. Our Ch. 2 display now shows a frame of (red) video and every line from top of screen (left of display) to bottom of screen (right of display) with vertical blanking period either side of vertical sync, These trigger setups are useful for tracing faults which show up in fixed locations on screen, such as your vertical lines on sprites @yngbld - if you can get your oscilloscope to trigger and display similar traces, we're off to a very good start! The settings mentioned so far would equally apply to just about any 'standard resolution' game with RGB and composite sync output. Hoping this may also help others to get more from their old, analog CRO - for anyone following this in real time we'd like to stay on topic for the moment and not diverge into other issues or questions. If you've made it this far, thanks for reading and stay tuned for more advanced measurements to come. Regards, John.
    10 points
  2. And that's a wrap on the 2023-24 Australian Championship Series Tournament!! Congratulations to all 48 finalists on a stellar event, but in particular to first time ACS Champion Tom Casey from South Australia! Tom completed qualifying as the Number 1 seed and never looked back in the finals portion, playing some incredible pinball throughout Finals Sunday to stand on top of the summit at the end of the day. Special mention also needs to go out the rest of the Top 4, being Simon Peel as runner-up, Tony Cirillo in 3rd and Matthew Owen in 4th. All of you deserved your places on the podium after an amazing display and great scores across the day, which would have been more than enough to claim the win on any other day. In case you missed out on the qualifying and/or finals results, they can be viewed here - 2023-24 ACS Results ACS results have now been submitted to the IFPA for processing. With the ACS win, Tom now has the decision to make on whether he will claim the 2nd Australian spot for the IFPA19 World Championship in June. More news will be posted in the next couple of days! I'm sure everyone will join me in thanking the organisers of the West Coast Pinball Festival on being absolutely fantastic hosts of the 2023-24 Australian Championship Series Tournament. The entire weekend was an amazing spectacle and one of the must do events on the pinball calendar in this country. To Roy, Lance, Brett S, Brett P, Tammy P and all of the tireless volunteers, sponsors, pinball providers, technicians, and anyone else I have forgotten - congratulations on all the work that goes in to running a seamless event. Yes there were a couple of hiccups along the way, but all a learning process for future years. Thank you also for the amazing swag for all of the ACS competitors, something of which I think all players were incredibly grateful for (I know I was for sure). To Michael Bowyer and the incredible crew at Amusement Machine Distributors for once again being the major sponsor of the ACS, we cannot thank you enough for your contributions to competitive pinball in this country. Was great to have you in attendance and help present all 48 finalists with their Finalist Medallions, which was also a nice surprise for the competitors. Don't forget to hit up Michael @ AMD for your new Stern Pinball (or other arcade games for that matter!). The ACS was not the only event running in the last week in WA either - congratulations goes to all of the following event winners in the lead up and during the WCPF week/end: Yaboola Lands @ Planet Royale - Tom Casey WCPF Warm Up @ Planet Royale - Curtis Sahariv WCPF Friday Night Matchplay - James Drury WCPF Juniors Tournament - ??? WCPF Women's Tournament - Esther Ahronheim WCPF Flipp Off - Mark Baraldi WCPF Saturday Night - Gordon MacMaster WCPF Sunday Battle Royale - Kieran Braden Congratulations also goes to anyone who also picked up any of the Bounty awards during the free play sessions over the weekend as well. The medallions for those awards were also amazing! That just about concludes everything ACS related for the 2023-24 season. I would also just like to take a quick minute to say a big thank you to both Greg Siegele (SA State Rep) and Brett Smith (WA State Rep) who are both stepping down from State Rep duties after a number of years at the helm. Both gents have gone above and beyond in assisting and promoting competitive pinball in their states and it is great to see the position both states are now in as a result. And to Brett in particular - your last duty as WA State Rep was a big one, and you went out with a bang mate! Well done on a fantastic weekend. Stay tuned in the coming months in regards to news on the 2024-25 ACS event, which will be heading to Townsville in March 2025. Exciting things are coming - watch this space!! In the meantime, I hope everyone enjoyed the past weekend, safe travels to all and see you all again in the near future!! Jason Lambert IFPA Australia Co-Country Director.
    10 points
  3. Gauging if there is any interest in another pure EM meet here later in the year? Celebrating retirement after 42 years of fulltime work. Fair few new EMs from the last meet, including North Star, Colorama, Gold Strike, Classy Bowler, Drop a Card, Spot Pool, Double Shuffle, Grande Domino and Baseball. Located Bulli NSW which is approximately 40 minutes South of the Sutherland Shire.
    7 points
  4. Ladies and gentlemen, These boards are the final products, and it seems that most people prefer the green PCB color over the red for their machines. I'm offering a further discount for AA members on these Lamp driver Boards. We've received fantastic feedback from many customers who have purchased these boards. I want to extend a big thank you to everyone who has provided us with feedback; your input is incredibly valuable and greatly appreciated. Australian made lamp driver boards designed for your classic Bally and Stern pinball machines. This PCB is complete and ready to install, no need for any DIY assembly. It replaces Bally® AS-2518-14, AS-2518-23, A084-91612-A000 and Stern® LDB-100 and LDA-100. The board has been redesigned with a blend of surface mount devices & traditional through hole for the SCR’s and are easily replaced if the need ever arises. Designed to used over-rated the SCR’s giving you the peace and mind in regards to reliability. 3 test points (TP1,TP2 and TP3 ) are found to the center of the board for easy testing, with a +5v led showcasing that the board has power. Please note that this board uses the same size and length headers as the original Bally / Stern board. The led lamp operates on direct current (dc) voltage and is therefore not recommended for alternating current (ac) voltages. In the market, there are multiple manufacturers of led lamps designed for pinball machines, some of which are offered at a lower cost. However, it is important to note that the cheaper led lamps are only compatible with dc voltage, while others are designed for ac voltages. It is strongly advise purchasing ac voltage led lamps for your pinball machine. Price: Red Lamp Driver Board: $160.00 Green Lamp Driver Board: $165.00 Includes free delivery anywhere in Australia, international members feel free to PM me. Thank you! - Con
    6 points
  5. Arcade game pinball, an old-school craze, given new life as Gen Z dominates world rankings - ABC News
    6 points
  6. This thing is too cute for words: It's been around for a while, but new to me 🙂 https://circuitbeard.co.uk/2018/05/12/rombus-pinball-a-lattepanda-mini-pinball-machine/
    5 points
  7. PENDING Deadpool Pro Stern Pinball Machine, 08/2018, low-ish plays, 2nd owner, Very nice condition with no damage, No mods only mirror blades, Goodie bag intact, At this stage Prefer local pick up, easy access & can help load, Inspection & test ok, Further pics by request, Cash sale no trades or swaps, Rowville 3178 $9.5K firm
    5 points
  8. Cool topic! I'm on track to achieve < $5k for Anubis with nothing transfered in. Savings come from: Buying a wreck for parts and refurbishing. Buying a 2nd hand cabinet. Chinese electronics (non pinball specific) for control. 3D printing various parts, rather than buying (VUK, autolaunch, lifters, diverters, specialty playfield mechanisms. Refurbished computers and screens. No fancy connectors, direct solder, and connectors where essential. Open Pinball Project software / hardware design (open source/free). Mission Pinball Framework software (open source/free). Linux (open source/free). Open source/free compilers, libraries, and interpreters for microcontrollers. We shall see if the dreem is achievable, I'm tracking all the costs, including the poor decisions / unused. Construction time is lots longer doing it this way.
    5 points
  9. I saw you picked up a Cyber Lead in A-P. Nice job. I’d be interested in seeing a few more pics when you get a chance. I did a bit of work on my Cyberlead this week. I cleaned up the 2p panel with a bottom side de—rust and re-spray. I polished some of the fine scratches out of the top and put in a similar button colour scheme to the 1p panel I had in there. I also put in some rebuilt LS-40 sticks after trying some Sanwas first. Someone had hacked the wiring too - with some buttons diverted from the JVS-Jamma board straight from the Jamma to the buttons. I just used snap style connectors for now to rejoin them as I wasn’t sure why someone did this. There’re still a few mysteries to solve with this machines PC boards and what does what, but it’s working well for me at the moment after a bit of tinkering.
    5 points
  10. It's been a while since I had a new project 😄 A new thread means a new worklog for a new arcade cab! 😄 Back when I got the E2, I low key kind of knew that the OCD would eventually get to me and here we are today, the Blast City is up for sale and I'm now with a new cabinet that will pair up nicely with the E2 - the Sammy Atomiswave SD. It's not EXACTLY the same, but the shape is the same, so the OCD is managed 😄 I used to say, the Blast has too much history and work for me to let her go and given that it's my "novelty cab" for monkey ball and rhythm tengoku with Blast City specific wiring, I genuinely thought I was going to take it to the grave. Things change and going through 3 blast cities, I'm now wanting a bit of a sea change. I will deal with the custom blast specific wiring another way 😄 The image that used to trigger my OCD whenever I played 😄 I wasn't really in the market for a new candy cab a few weeks ago, but I got told about an Atomiswave being in stock for a relatively decent price in todays world, albeit not working. Me being me, I'm a sucker for project cabs - it's just my MO :D. Knowing the chassis was dead and knowing it's a wei-ya, I was very apprehensive about purchasing - going from a Nanao to a Wei Ya isn't the most ideal thing in the world. The decision to lock in the purchase came about when I was able to secure a Toshiba PF tube and chassis which commonly found in Sega New Net Cities and Sega drivers with a Naomi/Chihiro/Lindbergh. The cab arrived last week and upon first inspection, I was very surprised at how clean it was given its age. No major body damage, decals intact, atomiswave head not cracked. The E2 version of this costs more than the whole cab 😄 External observations As mentioned, the cabinet is in pretty decent condition, there's some scratches on the bezel which I'm hoping I can Novus 1/2/3 it out, but if not and it's really an eyesore, I'll just sand it down and give it a paint of gloss black, there's no speckle on the bezel, so a home job rattle spray should do. Everything else externally is intact, the marquee holder is there (albeit incorrect screw/washer), the paint doesn't have any major scratches/dents/chips or rust, the back door service door is in great condition, overall really happy with the purchase. Internal observations I didn't receive any keys for the cab and everything except the coin bucket was unlocked, so I had to get my trusty "universal key" out again 😄 Just like the external, I'm surprised to see internally, it had original tangs, the wiring is all original and there's no hacking and splicing up of the jamma edge, unlike my E2 which needed a bit of patching up. I'll need to make a new control panel harness, but that's not too bad and relatively easy to do, the PSU wiring is all OEM but I'm missing the PSU cover and DB15 breakout board to allow 15/24/31k all through the single vga cable - no major biggie, I can always rig up something for RGB input Chassis and tube wise, it's the default Samsung A68QCP tube found in other atomiswaves with the Wei Ya M3129D. Chassis looks manky, but I'm not 100% sure what's wrong with it just yet. Will get to it at some point So the to do list will be as follows: - Deep clean - Cut and Polish - Test PSU for 3.3v, 5v, 12v - Test Monitor - Test JAMMA and respective connectors (make a kick harness if required) - Test audio - Test marquee light - Replace Locks - Install new stick/buttons if required - Install a stereo amp - Maybe a speaker upgrade? - Complete a monitor swap and potentially send the Wei Ya chassis to JOMAC to have as a complete kit backup
    4 points
  11. Selling my Bride of Pinbot It comes with the following: New Titan Rubbers Art Blades All New Plastics Set Custom Instruction Cards Spinner Decal Purple Pincab Protectors New Balls LED's Topper Key Fob Plays perfectly Also with the sale comes these parts that ARE NOT installed as yet. A New Buthamburg Playfield from Germany A New left hand Main Ramp and Decals A New Heartbeat Ramp and Decals A Set of Cliffy Ramp Protectors A Full set of Cabinet Decals,which will make a stunning full restoration possible with this purchase. $9000 Firm ,for the lot,will not separate Thanks
    4 points
  12. Hong Kong The galleria at Victoria Peak. A Godzilla. This title is literally everywhere 😳
    4 points
  13. Been thinking if this is possible unless it is merely a re-theme. This question can be taken many ways because if you already own a machine and were to use it's parts, the costs would be low so then a better question would be could you make 3 identical machines for $15000 and that would take out the "rebuilding an existing machine" scenario. I guess the reason for this post has more to do with where savings could be made to lower the cost of a homebrew pinball. If you have managed to do this, please take the time to list what you already had and therefore had no cost for that part such as a transformer which would normally cost around $600 to buy if you didn't already have one. Ideas on how to save are very welcome even if you have no interest in ever doing a homebrew.
    4 points
  14. Nearly 5 years on, we cannot thank our current IFPA Australian State Reps for everything that they do to further and foster IFPA Competitions here in throughout the country. In case anyone is not aware, the current IFPA Australia State Reps are as follows: QLD - John Cosson NSW - Justin Withnell ACT - James Todd VIC - Ryan Cee SA - Greg Siegele WA - Brett Smith It is with great regret however, that following the recent ACS event in Perth, both Greg Siegele (SA) and Brett Smith (WA) have notified us of their intention to step down from their Representative duties. Please join us in congratulating Greg and Brett for all their hard work in growing the pinball communities in both states respectfully. With this in mind, we will need to organise for a new representative to take over the reins in both SA and WA in the near future. If you would like to nominate as a State representative for either South Australia or Western Australia, or would like to nominate one of your peers (ensure they know and agree), please email Jimmy and myself me at ausifpa@gmail.com. If there are a few nominees in each state, then it will go to a ballot for that state. Cut off date for nominations will be end of Sunday, 24th March (NSW/Vic time) With Tasmania now joining the fray and starting to run competitions of their own in last few weeks, we will also look at the idea of introducing a Tasmanian State Representative in the coming months as well. Jason Lambert & Jimmy Nails IFPA Australia Co-Country Directors
    4 points
  15. My The Greatest Arcade Video Games book has arrived looking forward to reading it 🙂
    4 points
  16. The last game Harry co designed for Williams Electronics Incorporated as they were known then in 1977. Used to play this game at school for sport.......The sport was squash but we spent more time playing Rancho and Jet Spin at the squash courts.😁 The sports teacher gave up trying to get us playing squash and figured pinball was a sport. He continued working at Stern till the early 80s, Full list of his creations....... https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?searchtype=advanced&ppl=Harry Williams
    4 points
  17. Whenever im on the old lap top the missus allways asks whats happening on AA n without fail she just asked me then n reminded me of something that happend a few months ago which i had forgotten about A couple of months ago the missus was seeing a specialist in Erina i used to live in Terrigal in the early 90s n was amazed at how much Erina had changed whilst the missus was in seeing the specialist i thought i would nick up to Erina fair n check out the shopping centre as it was a short walk i was walking thru the servo when i guy that was filling his car up said excuse me mate did you go to Pinfest pointing to my T shirt as i was wearing last years Pinfest T shirt I usually dont talk to strangers but i will make an exception if its anything pinball related he said he really wanted to go to Pinfest n had never been before n it reminded me of when Pinfest first started n i really wanted to go but never got there untill 2022 so im talking to this guy while hes juicing up his car n he sez he had been looking to buy a pin for a while n wasnt sure how to go about it so i told him that Pinfest was the best place to playgames n talk to people in the know to figure out what sort pin to buy he said he was after an older game with the score reels which i told him was an EM i then told him that if he got on Facebook he could get intouch with the Newcastle pinball association they could help him far better than i could i also told him to check out Aussie Arcade as well then within 2 minutes of entering the shopping center i get an AAAAAAAA Pinfest n thumbs up from a complete stranger walking the other way i was in the shopping center for only 30 minutes n in that time at least 5 other people gave a smile and a nod as if to say yep how good is Pinfest all this just from wearing my 2023 Pinfest T shirt
    4 points
  18. The february update is a large one. There are 137 images added to the archive, 35 zip files updated or added and 50 pdf files added. The set for Bally - Twin Win is completed. A lot of cards are added to Chicago Coin - Hi-Score Pool. I've received a nice scan for the Gottlieb - College Queens cards. Relay strips are added to Gottlieb - Far Out. Gottlieb - Wagon Train and Watch My Line are updated with the help of some new scans. I've added Gottlieb - Whirl-Wind, Wishing Well and World Beauties. A request came for Mills - Professional Baseball cards. Carny Priest told me there are a lot of Stern files available from the Pinball Universe. Most of them are in German. I've downloaded the files and added them to the website. He also updated some of his own files. Stern - Nine Ball files are added for the Self-Test and Coin Settings, Solenoid and Switch identification, Switch assignments. Stern - Seawitch now has a file for Self-Test Display Numbers card. United - Wisconsin has been added. A lot of Williams STD labels are added to the website. A new file has been added for Williams - Vagabond. That is all in a nut shell. The full list of changes is below. Enjoy and have fun, Peter http://www.inkochnito.nl 29 february 2024 changes New made or updated card files: Bally M-1509 cards added to zip file Bally Twin Win cards added to zip file Chicago Coin Hi-Score Pool cards added to zip file Gottlieb College Queens cards added to zip file Gottlieb Far Out relay strips added to zip file Gottlieb Lightning Ball cards added to zip file Gottlieb TKO zip file corrected Gottlieb Universe cards added to zip file Gottlieb Volley cards added to zip file Gottlieb Wagon Train cards added to zip file Gottlieb Watch My Line cards added to zip file Gottlieb Whirl-Wind zip file added Gottlieb Wishing Well zip file added Gottlieb World Beauties zip file added Gottlieb World Champ cards added to zip file Mills Professional Baseball zip file added Stern AC-DC German cards pdf file added Stern Aerosmith German card pdf file added Stern Avatar German card pdf file added Stern Avengers card pdf files added Stern Batman 66 German card pdf file added Stern Deadpool German card pdf file added Stern Elvira House of Horrors card pdf files added Stern Game of Thrones German card pdf file added Stern Ghostbusters cards pdf file added (special thanks to Carny Priest) Stern Guardians of the Galaxy German card pdf file added Stern Iron Maiden German card pdf file added Stern Iron Man German card pdf file added Stern Jurassic Park card pdf files added Stern Ledzeppelin card pdf file added (special thanks to Carny Priest) Stern Metalica German card pdf file added Stern Mustang German card pdf file added Stern Nine Ball Self Test and coin settings card zip file added Stern Nine Ball Solenoid and Switch Identification card zip file added Stern Nine Ball Switch Assignments card zip file added Stern Rush cards pdf file added Stern Seawitch Self Test Display Numbers card zip file added Stern Simpsons fuse label pdf file added Stern Star Trek German card pdf file added Stern Star Wars German card pdf file added Stern Star Wars Promo card pdf file added (Special thanks to Carny Priest) Stern Stranger Things cards pdf files added Stern Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles cards pdf files added Stern The Beatles German card pdf file added Stern The Mandalorian cards pdf files added Stern The Mandalorian Promo card pdf file added (Special thanks to Carny Priest) Stern The Munsters German card pdf file added Stern The Rolling Stones German card pdf file added Stern The Walking Dead German card added to pdf file Stern Tron German card pdf file added Stern Wrestlemania cards pdf files added Stern X-Men cards pdf files added United Wisconsin zip file added Williams Road Kings German card added to zip file Williams STD-62 label zip file added Williams STD-222 label zip file added Williams STD-270 label zip file added Williams STD-282 label zip file added Williams STD-283 label zip file added Williams STD-284 label zip file added Williams STD-285 label zip file added Williams STD-324 label zip file added Williams STD-329 label zip file added Williams STD-331 label zip file added Williams Vagabond zip file added Williams Wonderland card added to zip file
    4 points
  19. Well you have the runs on the board mate. If anyone can do it you can! Dave
    4 points
  20. Well we'll see I guess I am about to make a production ready version of the Pinfest skill tester. So a repeatable Cad / art / electronics / wiring loom /cabinet (custom) If it pleases the court I will log expenses for this endeavour. But if I can't do it for under 3.5k in parts it won't be viable.
    4 points
  21. Hi everyone, The cascading water effect: Firstly apologies for the slow reply, been laid up crook for a while (bloody pneumonia) and then had to sort out some things on the property, don’t you hate it when life gets in the way of our hobbies!! Anyhow I studied the videos of the effect at the base of the waterfall and it looks like the light emanates from the bottom of each section of cascading water and then radiates outwards. So following a similar logic to before, the first picture outlines how I approached this. Lamp number 1 will illuminate the centre of the semi circle and then as the sequence progresses from 1-5 the light will catch on the next arc outwards until it reaches the edge, like a sunburst. Looking at the artwork you can see there are several semi circles which intertwine together to make the effect so the etchings have to follow to suit. The second picture shows this zoomed in. I must say that I find this part more tedious and less enjoyable. It is also the secondary effect in the artwork as your eyes are primarily drawn to the main waterfall. The video shows this effect in action. As you can see I’ve finished the main waterfall and now working on the cascading water beneath it and then will extend to the sides. Lots still to go!!! IMG_5062.MOV
    4 points
  22. Cost savings on multiple machines can be achieved with bulk purchases, and building them all at the same time cutting production costs, But one mistake could have consequences on the budget, And stay away from custom hard to produce and find things, like lockdown bars, operating systems, plastics, Trips to the parts house, A retheme based off an Altech , or system 2000 would probably get you in the ballpark… Ya, I bet it could be done, I would think double the budget over a longer period of time though would make for a better machine however given the amount of torture and abuse they are subject too, and would give allowance for testing and design ,You wouldn’t have to cut any corners.
    4 points
  23. Black Rose & Mary Shelly Frankenstein Tweaks continue with Black Rose but it is very playable in its current form. One of the mods that I have done is to install stadium type lights which are tied into the general illumination circuit. As good as Pinstadium lights look, I couldn't get over the cost. The nail in the coffin for me was that the Pinstadium App didn't work on my phone which is a modern Galaxy S22. To make my stadium lights, I grabbed a few meters of 6v LED light strips from Pinball Haus, as well as some 90 degree black aluminium edges from Bunnings. I made a wiring harness that got 6V from two different circuits and also added Molex connectors for easy removal. I went with white light on the Black Rose and Purple lights on the Mary Shelly Frankenstein. The room with both of these games is very dark and Black Rose was nearly unplayable without bringing in additional lights to illuminate the top area of the playfield. Now with the stadium lights not only is it much easier to play but the artwork really pops. If the folks at Pinstadium want to sponsor me then I would be happy to write a comprehensive review of their product. 🙂 Daytona USA #2 I was experiencing some power issues with the second Daytona USA cabinet. The first and biggest issue was that I was not getting AC from the transformer. Whenever I went to switch it on there was a strong mechanical vibration at about 50HZ. Given that this machine had been under water, there was a very real risk that something had come lose in the transformer and the vibration was indeed a 50HZ hum caused by the incoming AC voltage. Luckily there is lots of information about how to fix a buzzing transformer so I wasn't too worried. As it turns out, the mechanical buzzing wasn't the transformer, but the magnetic switch responsible for switching the high current. The part is a Fuji SC-03 Magnetic Contactor and you can see it in the bottom left f the image above. I took the transformer board out of the cabinet and fired it up on the bench and I could see the black switch in the middle of the device rapidly going up and down. If you have got other Sega cabinets (Megalo 410 comes to mind) the "thunk" sound when you turn it on is one of these magnetic contactors activating. Although I am sure they serve a very important purpose, you can bypass the contactor if needed. I ended up bypassing the broken contactor as a short term fix while I awaited a replacement. The next issue with the Daytona was a very tired DC power supply. When I fired the cabinet up, I would get a grey cross-hatching on the screen for about five minutes before the board fully powered on. Jomac came to the rescue again and rebuilt my DC power supplies for me. With the rebuilt PSU in place the game fires up first time, every time. I hope some of this information helps fellow backyarders!
    4 points
  24. SOLD Includes inner art blades Official Shooter rod Shaker motor Does have a nick in one of the side decals which is behind one of the headbox hinges. Happened in transportation but you can't see it when the head box is raised. Includes the latest Jurassic park MOVIE CODE with the current update! (Literally kills the lame stern one) Game works perfectly and is in very nice condition.
    4 points
  25. Congrats to both seller and new owner. Was very tempting....love the inspiration behind the game.
    4 points
  26. A guy is going on a tour of a factory that produces various latex products. At the first stop, he is shown the machine that manufactures baby-bottle nipples. The machine makes a loud' hiss-pop' noise.' The hiss is the rubber being injected into the mold,' explains the guide.' The popping sound is the needle poking a hole in the end of the nipple.' Later, the tour reaches the part of the factory where condoms are manufactured. The machine makes a' Hiss. Hiss. Hiss. Hiss-pop' noise.' Wait a minute!' says the man taking the tour.' I understand what the' hiss, hiss,' is, but what's that' pop' every so often?' 'Oh, it's just the same as in the baby-bottle nipple machine,' says the guide. It pokes a hole in every fourth condom.' 'Well, that can't be good for the condoms!' 'Yeah, but it's great for the baby-bottle nipple business!'
    4 points
  27. Repaired a while ago, was polishing today so thought I'd give it a quick clean up. New beer seal. Don't miss this opportunity to own an original repaired backyarder lockbar. These chances don't come along too often. Wheelie bin not included in the sale. I could lie and say its chrome, but it's not! $100 plus post
    4 points
  28. Hi all, In a slight variation on the 'Chicken or the Egg' riddle, this arcade machine repair began as just a game PCB. Some time ago I bought an Omori Shuttle Invader PCB in an incomplete state just to see if I could get it working. Having done that successfully the question arose; what to do with it now? It's not like a later, JAMMA standard PCB which can be placed into any generic JAMMA wired machine, the control wiring using both 'normally open' and 'normally closed' switch contacts being fairly unique to this machine as far as I know. That's not to mention the fact that this was a Black and White game which requires a separate colour overlay PCB in order to work with a colour monitor, which I didn't have at the time. The best solution seemed to be to make or adapt some existing cocktail machine cabinet with the necessary monitor and controls to run it. I had dismissed the possiblity of finding a correct cabinet to install my working PCB into. Being a Space Invader clone and not particularly valuable at the time, most of these machines would have been scrapped or converted to other games at some point when they stopped working so complete machines with original internals by now are almost extinct. Imagine my surprise when I received a message from a friend asking 'Weren't you looking for a Shuttle Invader?' with a link to one which was currently for sale. It was not too far away, not too expensive and not working but did seem complete and the most likely issue was its original game PCB, the very part which I already had a working replacement for. Thanks to @Ace1942 for the heads up! So here it is. Made in Japan by Omori Electric Co., Ltd and retaining the Japanese script on its control panels. These were imported into Australia by LAI, converted with 240V step down transformers and instruction cards printed in English. It carries the usual LAI identification plate on the cabinet. Inside it looks pretty original with the transformer providing AC secondary Voltages for the linear power supply (top right of photo below) as well as an isolated 100V AC supply for the colour monitor. To the bottom right of photo is the step down transformer added for Australian 240V mains supply. Here I've already removed the original game PCB which was sitting loosely in position, still connected to power and control wiring. When powered on very briefly there was no sign of activity apart from a few small lines on screen, these did seem to show that the original looking Toei monitor is still working at least. The CRT itself has no screen burn and may have been replaced at some stage. Also seen in the photo above is the elusive colour overlay PCB (part No. OEC-4B). It turns out the 16way ribbon cable which connects it to the game PCB wasn't plugged in so there was no hope of a proper video output even if the game PCB had been working (which it wasn't). So the PCB had probably been removed for testing at some point and just put loosely back in place when it all became too hard. Even though I already have a working Shuttle Invader PCB (which now also runs Omori's 'Sky Love' game) I'll still test this PCB on the bench to see what might have gone wrong and fix it if possible. It never hurts to have a second game PCB as a working spare. Shuttle Invader PCB Repair #2 Updated 17/2/24 On initial inspection one obvious issue was some clear packing tape had been placed over the top of the 2708 EPROMs. Carefully removing that the reason was revealed; one of the EPROMs ceramic packages had broken, a layer having come adrift along with the attached quartz window which allows UV erasure and the packing tape was just holding it in place. Fortunately, none of the fine internal wires which connect the IC wafer to the external pins seemed to have been broken when the chunk of ceramic came adrift so, after using my EPROM programmer to verify its contents against the known Shuttle Invader ROM file to confirm the component was still working I carefully refitted the broken section of the IC package with a drop of acrylic adhesive. Powering the board up on the bench there is just a faint pattern on screen accompanied by a high pitched warbling tone from the speaker which I recognise as the 'UFO flying' sound being stuck on. At least there is some sort of sync signal present on the composite video output or the NEC TV monitor would just display a blue screen. Those dark horizontal bands seem wrong though and may be spurious, incorrectly timed sync pulses. I'll have to check the composite video output signal with my oscilloscope to see if there is a problem with the sync timing. Sure enough there is a problem with the timing of the vertical sync pulses. Instead of repeating at a rate of 60Hz, approximately every 16 milliseconds they are occurring at just over 1 millisecond intervals, a frequency of nearly 1kHz. The monitor does not respond to vertical sync outside of a narrow frequency range so the additional pulses are seen on screen without triggering the vertical retrace. The vertical sync frequency appearing to be 16 times too high is significant; the horizontal and vertical timing signals are derived from the 5.545 MHz clock frequency using a series of 74LS161 binary counters. Each counter has 4 outputs which effectively divide the input frequency by 2, 4 8 and 16. At the completion of each 16 count cycle the carry output enables the next counter in the cascade to increment by one count, dividing that frequency further. With some additional logic to reset the count, the second 74LS161 in the sequence produces the horizontal sync and blanking signals which are then divided further by counters in positions 14A and 14B to produce the vertical timing signals. Checking the 74LS161 in position 14A, none of its binary outputs are toggling and the carry output appears to be stuck at about 2 Volts. This is causing the final counter in position 14B to increment on every clock pulse rather than once in every 16. Having removed the faulty 74LS161 from position 14A then installing a socket and a new IC the vertical sync signal now appears correct and the monitor shows a stable, blank screen. Moving on to test the signals around the 8080A CPU, power supply rails and clock signals appear present and correct but the reset signal does not appear to pulse high on startup or when the reset input is manually selected. Tracing the reset signal via the 8224 IC in position 9D to the 74LS38 open collector NAND gate in position 4D, used here as an inverter to provide an active low reset signal for other parts of the circuit - its output appears to be stuck in the high state. The resulting signal which reaches the CPU via a 74LS04 inverter in position 9F remains low, never resetting the CPU. Removing the faulty 74LS38 IC from position 4D then installing a replacement along with a new socket, the power on reset signal now appears correct and there is some CPU activity evident on its address outputs and data I/O pins. After reset the first action of CPU will be to read instructions, in this case from EPROM. Checking the signals around the 2708 EPROM at address zero, in position 13C its chip select input pin 20 is not active. Tracing that back via the 74LS42 address decoder in position 15D it appears that is due to address line AB10 being stuck high. Initially suspecting a faulty 74LS244 address buffer in position 8D the fault turned out to be an open circuit connection from the CPU pin 1 to the buffer input, pin 13. Upon closer inspection the PCB track had a patch of greenish corrosion on the component side where it emerged from under the CPU socket. Rather than attempting to bridge the inaccessable section on the component side I opted to add a wire on the solder side from the CPU pin 1 to a via (plated through-hole) which leads to pin 13 of the buffer IC. That gets the /CE signal to the EPROM working and it appears to be outputting data onto the bus when selected. Tracing back to the 8216 buffers in position 15F and 16F the data bit DBM6 is noticably less active than at the EPROM so there appears to be another connection issue. It turns out that is caused by a corroded pin 16 of the 2708 EPROM, which broke off when I removed the IC from its socket - or perhaps was already broken when someone had removed it previously. Repairing the broken pin by soldering on a spare pin cut from a faulty IC, the EPROM verifies correctly when checked with my EPROM programmer. Although the original pins are gold plated, moisture does attack any exposed areas and the steel pins eventually rust away from the inside. In this photo several pins are showing signs of deterioration but still intact for the moment. 15/12/23 I'm making an attempt to repair the original game PCB from an Omori Shuttle Invader machine. I already have another, working Shuttle Invader PCB to install into the machine but I'd like to repair this one if possible to have a working spare. I'd also prefer to use this one initially to test out the rest of the machine before installing my known good PCB. This one is in pretty poor shape with several areas having messy traces of previous repairs, it could be someone has already tried to resolve the most recent issue and may even have made it worse. So far I've replaced a couple of faulty ICs to correct the sync timing and CPU reset signals as well as resolving a couple of broken connections due to corrosion on the PCB tracks and IC pins. Having done that the address signals from the CPU and select signals via address decoding now appear to be reaching the EPROMs and their data returning via the bidirectional buffers in positions 15F and 16F. Now looking at the signals around the RAM there are issues in this area as well. That's not surprising - on initial inspection I had noted some obvious repair attempts with a number of broken tracks jumpered and generally messy soldering which suggests all of the RAM ICs may have been desoldered and tested or replaced at some stage. The dynamic RAM comprises 16 ICs, type 4027 each having a capacity of only 4k x 1 bit, making a total of 8k Bytes. Address lines are combined into rows and columns so there are row and column address strobe signals in addition to select and read /write controls as well as separate input and output pins for the single data bit from each IC. Checking their signal activity the first obvious problem is the row address strobe /RAS has an invalid, low signal level. This comes from the 74LS08 in position 20B so replacing that IC and retesting, unfortunately has not resolved the issue. The most likely cause seems to be a short circuit track or perhaps one of the ICs has a shorted input. At this point it seems prudent to test all of the connections to the RAM for continuity as well as checking for shorts between adjacent tracks. The majority of signals to the RAM are bussed across all 16 positions, the select lines into two banks of 8 ICs and the data input and output pins grouped into pairs. So, beginning with pin 1 of the 4027 in position 19C, testing the continuity to pin 1 of each other RAM IC and so forth, all of the expected connections seem to be present. I did note some of the interconnecting tracks and pads had been broken or lifted when the ICs must have been removed for testing, then repaired with jumper wires soldered in place to bridge the gaps. Next testing for shorts from pin 1 of the first IC to each other pin and so on, there is a problem. Pin 3 (R /W) is shorted to pin 4 (/RAS), as these signals are bussed across all RAM ICs the short could be anywhere within the RAM section on either side of the PCB. Fortunately turning the board over and inspecting closely I located the solder bridge which appears to be the result of a slip of the soldering iron when the previous repairer was removing or replacing ICs. As the PCB has no solder mask on either side it is easy to accidentally bridge two adjacent tracks, in this case the solder 'dag' spans three tracks shorting pins 3, 4 and 13 (/CS). That little mistake had apparently gone unnoticed at the time and from that point on the previous repair attempt was doomed. Without correcting that short any further components tested or replaced would have failed to make any significant improvement. Having taken a high res. photo of the affected area to illustrate that particular fault I can't help noticing a number of messy solder joints in that section of the PCB. Using the photo as a guide I've located a second solder bridge and, taking a close up photo from a different angle it can be seen clearly below: That solder bridge connects pin 2 (Data in) to pin 14 (Data out) and would cause a single bit error across every RAM address. This would have more likely been diagnosed as a RAM failure than a PCB short and it remains to be seen whether any or all of the actual ICs have survived these multiple shorted inputs and outputs. Powering the board on again - after correcting those two solder bridges - rechecking the signals around the RAM ICs the /RAS and /CAS signals now both appear to be present and correct. The Read /Write signal however is sitting between 1 and 2 Volts and just seems to contain a bit of noise so there is most likely some further damage caused by the previously shorted tracks. Tracing the R/W signal back to the 74LS00 in position 21B, replacing that IC cures the incorrect level but there is still no activity on its output pin 6 due to its input pin 4 remining Low. That turns out to be due to a faulty 74LS74 in position 22B, replacing that IC as well (having added sockets for both) restores the activity and at last we have some meaningful video on screen. That may not seem like much of an improvement but the random garbage has been cleared away and there is a recognisable zero character in the score area to the right of picture. The zero looks correct so at least some of the video RAM must be OK but the other half of screen has some corrupted character near the centre and a flashing bar in the laser base area, perhaps one bank of video RAM still has errors. - I'm not worried about the washed out appearance and lack of contrast, that is just becaause this PCB is configured to be used with the colour overlay PCB - its monochrome video output has an increased level of sync and reduced video level. Once I have this PCB to the point where the game appears to run I will connect up and test the colour overlay PCB using my NEC monitor's RGB input. 3/2/24 I'm returning to this Omori Shuttle Invader PCB repair following a pause while I completed some other, more pressing repairs and projects. To date I've found and corrected a number of issues with faulty ICs, corroded tracks and broken IC legs as well as shorted tracks caused by some previous, failed repair attempt by persons unknown. As I left it there were now some recognisable characters visible on screen but the program was still not running correctly, hinting at some remaining data or memory issues. The three banks of memory on the PCB are 8kBytes of program ROM (only 6kBytes are populated for Shuttle Invader), 8kBytes of dynamic RAM and 1kByte of static RAM. Although I've removed and verified the six 2708 EPROMs I'm not certain the program instructions read from them are reaching the CPU without error, the waveforms seen at the data buffers for this section show some invalid, low level signals. It may be these intermediate levels are only seen during bus idle time when no devices are selected but they could be due to a bus conflict where two devices are incorrectly selected at the same time, their outputs clashing and causing data errors with invalid levels. Comparing the timing of the select signals for the EPROMs and static RAM, which both appear on this section of the data bus along with the /DIEN signal which controls the direction of the data buffers I can't see any conflicts so for the moment I'll move on and look for problems elsewhere. The dynamic RAM comprises two banks of 4kByte, totalling 8kByte. The first 6kBytes are used for the video bitmap, the remaining 2kBytes presumably used as working RAM for the program in addition to the 1kByte of static RAM. Dynamic RAM was often used in video circuits of the era as it was less expensive than static RAM. The main drawback of dynamic RAM was the need for a refresh process to maintain its data but a video circuit which reads the data in a continuous cycle performs that function without the need for additional circuitry. To see recognisable characters on screen the video area of RAM must be working to some extent, being written by the CPU and read out by the video circuit. Any persistent bit errors would show as lines or dots on screen. Double checking the timing signals which are used within the video circuit to read the video RAM data and create the video signal, I notice that signal MA12 is not active. This is the highest level address signal used within the dynamic RAM area so effectively switches between the two 4kByte RAM banks as the video data is being read out. That problem turns out to be due to a faulty 74LS00 in position 15B so removing, socketing and replacing that I'm expecting a dramatic improvement to the image on screen. Powering on again I'm surprised to see the image looks much worse! Two thirds of the screen area now just contains a sort of dot pattern. Even though it looks worse it was a step in the right direction as it turns out one half of the dynamic RAM was never being accessed at all, the data being written to the upper bank then overwritten by other data. So now, we're reading the full RAM address range but the first bank is still not being written to. Tracing the select signal back to address AB12, the 74LS74 latch in position 7A is also faulty. Replacing that, adding a socket corrects the addressing issue and the screen has improved but the program is still not running correctly. This seems like a large number of simultaneous faults and so many faulty ICs but several of these issues were probably caused by the previous 'repairer' who shorted a number of tracks on the PCB, no doubt causing additional component failures on top of whatever issue they were originally attempting to fix. Assuming that the dynamic RAM is now working for the most part (judging by the recognisable characters on screen) there still remains the issue of the 1kByte static RAM which may be faulty and could be causing the program to stall at an early stage. The problem here is there's not much activity in that area to observe so it's unclear whether the program is failing because of errors in the static RAM area or for some other reason, before the static RAM is even accessed. Neither of the 2114 RAM ICs are socketed so it would be preferable to test them somehow without desoldering or having to substitute known good RAM ICs. At this stage there are so many unknowns it seems worthwhile to develop a small test program to substitute into the boot ROM area which performs some known tasks and tests the dynamic and static RAM for errors from the CPUs point of view. Writing programs in assembly language is not my forte but a simple program loop to write, read and check each memory location can be incredibly helpful in situations such as this. My first attempt at a program to excercise the hardware on an arcade PCB was for the 6502 CPU in Missile Command, that program did no more than read every address from 0000 to ffff in a continuous loop. It did nothing with the data read, what it did achieve was to create some predictable activity on the CPU address bus which could be viewed on an oscilloscope enabling hardware faults to be easily traced. Missile Command already incorporates some diagnostic and memory testing routines so once initial addressing issues were sorted the inbuilt diagnostic software could be accessed and there was no need to develop the 'reading every address' program beyond that purpose. My next attempt at a test ROM, for the z80 CPU in Exerion by Jaleco was more ambitious. Exerion included no diagnostic software so I wrote a test routine which checked three areas of RAM, outputting results to that PCBs text layer, followed by a version of the 'reading every address' loop for good measure which also placed a character on screen for every address read to indicate continuing activity. Exerion Test ROM, 2021 - running in MAME For Shuttle Invader which is an earlier game using an 8080 CPU with a limited instruction set and only bitmap graphics ability achieving the same goal will be more challenging. Compared to the z80 instruction set, the 8080 has no extended instructions for data fill or individual bit operations. The original EPROMs on the Shuttle Invader PCB are 2708s with only 1kByte of storage so the entire program including any graphics should ideally be written to fit within a single EPROM. For a RAM testing program there is another limitation, the RAM itself can not be relied upon for the program to run. The entire program should only make use of the CPUs internal registers and the 'boot ROM' location for the program itself. That means no subroutines can be called or any data pushed onto the stack for temporary storage as these operations require a known good area of RAM to be set aside. The program I've written begins by filling the dynamic RAM area with data, beginning with all zeros then reading each address back and checking for errors. If all good it increments the data and repeats the process for every data value from 00 to FF. As most of the DRAM is video memory the resulting patterns should be visible on screen as the test progresses. At the beginning of each test loop a brief, low pitch tone should also be heard. If that completes correctly it does two more passes where the address of each memory location is written as data, first using the high order address byte of each memory location then the low order byte. The purpose of this last step is to identify any addressing errors where data may be written to the wrong memory location then overwritten by other data. If there are no errors a 'DRAM: PASS." graphic message is transferred to the video memory and a similar process commences for the static RAM area. As the static RAM is being read, each byte read is also written to an area within the video RAM area so the patterns read back from static RAM can be viewed on screen. If these tests pass a "SRAM: PASS." graphic message displays that result and the program moves on to a continuous 'reading every address' loop, also writing the data read to an area within the video memory so the activity can be viewed on screen. At any point during the RAM testing if there is a read error a high pitch tone sounds and the program continuously rewrites and re reads that memory location, announcing the result with a low or high pitch tone each time. Repeating the write and read of that particular memory address allows the problem area to be identified in circuit using an oscilloscope or logic probe. In the latest version of the test ROM the address, data written and data read back from that location are decoded and displayed on screen as a graphic message allowing a faulty RAM IC to be identified directly. So having completed the memory test program, confirming its operation within MAME it's time to run it on the actual hardware and see what it finds. Programming a spare EPROM and substituting it into the boot ROM position 1, powering on there is a low tone immediately followed by a high tone and an error is indicated at the very beginning of DRAM with data 00 written and 01 read back. This would correspond with the 4027 RAM in position 21C. Anticipating some RAM issues I had recently ordered a couple of 4027 ICs from a local supplier which have already arrived so, desoldering the suspect IC and adding a socket then installing the replacement we're ready to re test. Powering on again, this time the test routine continues for a minute or so and the 'DRAM: PASS.' message appears. I'd call that a success! the memory test has correctly pinpointed the single IC from a group of 16 which had some bit errors. Moving on to the static RAM tests and once again, failing almost immediately the screen indicates an error near the beginning of the static RAM address range with data 00 written and 02 read back. That error is within the lower 4 data bits, corresponding to the 2114 RAM in position 15C. Removing, socketing and repacing that IC and powering on again the test proceeds just a little further and another error is indicated. This time the data written is 10 and read back as 00 so that corresponds to the other 2114 in position 16C. So it turns out both of the 2114 static RAM ICs were faulty. As it happened, I could have just removed and replaced both of the static RAM ICs on suspicion and would have been right in this case but being able to test them without removing is by far a better method. In the case of the dynamic RAM, the previous repairer appears to have removed and resoldered every IC, failing to locate one faulty component and creating a number of additional faults in the process. With the help of my RAM test the single remaining fault was identified and faulty IC replaced without disturbing any of the other components. With RAM tests now passing it's time to refit the original EPROM and see if the program runs. Powering on again we have a working attract screen, the game coins up and plays, sounds appear to be working as well. Fantastic! The game runs at last but there are still some issues, after a while alternate strips of the video image begin to disappear but the game seems to still be playing correctly so that's probably an issue in the video output area rather than a more serious program error. We'll look into that next. 12/2/24 The Shuttle Invader PCB is running now with one graphics issue, alternate rows of the image are cutting out as the PCB warms up. This doesn't seem to affect the program flow or game play so would most likely be a fault in the video output section of the PCB. The video data is loaded one byte at a time into a pair of 74LS194 4 bit shift registers and then shifted out as video, each bit representing one pixel. A pair of mode control signals allow the shift direction to be reversed during flip screen operation. Checking the outputs of the shift registers, the one in position 18C definitely appears faulty. This is consistent with the symptoms, where one half of each character is missing so I'm ordering a couple of replacement ICs from a local supplier. Once those have arrived, removing and replacing that IC fixes the problem. We now have a working display. The next step is to set up and test the colour overlay PCB which converts the black and white image to an RGB colour signal, to drive the 14 inch Toei colour monitor fitted to the machine. Video and timing signals from the game PCB are fed to the colour board via a 16 way ribbon cable plugged into standard DIL IC sockets at either end. This was a common interconnection standard at the time but rarely seen in more modern equipment. A couple of the pins of the DIL header plug at one end were broken off so I've made up a complete replacement cable. That was one of the failings of this type of interconnection, the header pins which were no stronger than IC legs were quite fragile and easily broken if the cable was unplugged and left exposed. There was also nothing to prevent the header from being plugged in backwards apart from the pin 1 marking on the cable. The +5V and +12V supplies to the PCB and RGB outputs are connected within the machine via a double sided 22 way edge connector but also appear on a second, 16 way DIL IC socket so for testing purposes I'm making up a cable to connect via another DIL header plug, interfacing with the RGB inputs of my NEC TV monitor. The sync signal comes directly from the game PCB, using the original monochrome composite video output. 15/2/24 I've set up the colour overlay PCB from the Omori Shuttle Invader machine on the test bench along with the now working game PCB and it's time to see the game in colour for the first time. Expectations are high so, switching to my test bench monitor's RGB input and powering on, here's what we get: OK, so slightly less than expected - there seem to be two issues here. Firstly everything is red and apart from that some sections of the image are missing entirely. There are two possible reasons for the colour issue, both green and blue outputs could have failed or the colour PCB may be stuck in the 'laser base explosion' condition. Normally only seen as a momentary flash of red, when the player's laser / missile base is hit an explosion sound is triggered and a signal /outFCH is pulsed which changes the screen colour to red momentarily. The duration of the red flash is set by a 74121 monostable (one shot) IC in position 2C on the colour PCB, triggered by the /outFCH signal via a 74LS04 inverter. Checking those signals with the oscilloscope it appears the /outFCH signal is hovering at around 2 Volts with some glitchy noise as well. At the inverter output that becomes a repetitive pulse which continuously retriggers the monostable IC, resulting in the consistently red image. That issue appears to originate from the game PCB so, temporarily disconnecting the ribbon cable from the colour PCB and looking at the /outFCH signal on pin 9 of the 74LS155 in position 5D this is what we see: That's not as expected and the Voltage, between 0 and about 3V obviously not a valid TTL signal. The output should just show as a logic high, briefly pulsing low each time the player base is hit so the 74LS155 is definitely faulty. Fortunately I have some spares on hand along with 16 pin sockets so removing that IC and replacing, setting up again we have some improvement to the image on screen. At least we now have some correct colours but there appears to be a more serious issue as sections of the image are missing. In the Player 1 view the invaders are completely invisible at first, appearing intermittently as they advance while other details such as the scores and barriers are only partially shown. It seems that alternate rows of the image are blank. That would suggest a problem with the bipolar PROM which is used as a lookup table to define the colour for each section of the image. The PROM is a type 82S129 (or 74S287) and has a capacity of 256 x 4bits i.e. 256 nibbles or 1k bits total. In this application only 3 of the 4 data bits are used, one for each colour Red, Green and Blue. There are 8 address lines, the lower 5 are connected to horizontal timing signals MA 0 to MA 4, effectively dividing the screen area into 32 character rows. The other 3 address inputs select alternate regions of the ROM area for flip screen, laser base explosion and non active video (blanking) areas. A PROM can not be erased and reprogrammed so will require replacement in the case of any error or fault. The first step is to read and verify the PROM contents against the known file referred to within MAME for Shuttle Invader. Although I don't have a suitable programmer for these devices (and no modern programmers support them) they are not too difficult to read using my existing EPROM programmer and a custom adaptor to match the pinout of the PROM to that of a 2716 EPROM. The adaptor in the foreground is used for 256 x 4 bit PROMs such as the 82S129 while the other suits 32 Byte types. In this case 256 bytes are read and stored as a binary file, the upper 4 bits always being zero. So, reading the PROM from position 2B of the colour PCB and verifying it against the known 82s129.2b file there are some differences and the two files do not match. We can look at the contents of the two files graphically using the program 'YY-CHR' - in the known file (left picture), there is a simple pattern which represents the colours enabled for each segment of the video image. The areas in which only a single bit is selected, appearing here as a thin line would be the red screen which flashes up when the player missile base is hit. The image on the right shows the data read from the PROM on the colour PCB. It seems the content would have been the same except alternate data locations now read as all zeros. This seems more likely due to some internal addressing issue within the PROM rather than a fault in the fusible link array but either way the faulty PROM can not be reprogrammed and needs replacement. To replace a faulty PROM there are three requirements; a blank PROM of the same type or equivalent, a suitable programmer with correct adapter for that particular component and the correct data file to program into the blank PROM. I'm confident that the reference file I've used to verify the original PROM is correct but don't have a blank PROM or suitable programmer to create the replacement. The main concern with purchasing a small quantity of blank PROMs is that many items which are listed for sale online as new parts actually turn out to be second hand parts reclaimed from old PCBs. In the case of bipolar PROMs any second hand item will be useless, having already been programmed and impossible to erase and reprogram. As for programming, there are some older type EPROM programmers with suitable adapters to program bipolar PROMs but these are now extremely sought after and seldom come up for sale. It may be possible to build a homebrew programmer for a specific PROM type but in order to reliably program these devices there are very precise conditions of pulse timing and current required. A few 'hacks' which I've read about to achieve this would be very hit and miss at best, with a high probability of programming failure and wasted devices as a result. Fortunately I've found someone who can not only supply a blank PROM but also program it with the data file I already have, saving me the extra trouble and expense of attempting to program it myself. Within a few days the newly programmed PROM has arrived by post so fitting it to the colour PCB and testing; the colours, flip screen and red flashing now all appear perfect. Thanks to @Skybeaux for the PROM and programming! 17/2/24 The Shuttle Invader PCB is working well and colour video output looks good so the board repairs now seem complete. There's one modification I'd like to add while I still have them on the bench, that is to also run Omori's Sky Love game. I have already done a similar modification to my first Shuttle Invader PCB so this will be similar except for the type of EPROM used. Shuttle Invader originally uses 6 x 2708 EPROM totalling 6k Bytes and Sky Love requires 8k Bytes. My previous modification used 8 x 2716 EPROM to contain the two ROMsets, in this instance I'll adapt one of the currently unused PCB ROM spaces to fit a single 27128 EPROM which will accommodate both entire ROMsets. Here I've desoldered the PCB pads to install an IC socket in the unused ROM 6, position 11E on the PCB. The 27128 is mostly pin compatible with the 2708 but, having a 28 pin package does require an additional 4 through holes as well as a few track alterations. To make room I've removed C130 which is a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor used as a bypass to reduce high frequency noise, between +5V and ground. I'll relocate C130 to a nearby pair of through holes which connect to the same points, using a monolithic capacitor of the same value which is physically smaller. I've drilled 3 additional, 1mm holes for the 28 pin IC socket - the existing PCB tracks which pass through those points need to be cut either side of the new holes and bypassed with wire. I also need to cut those power rails from pins 19 and 24, before installing the 28 pin socket. Tracks cut, 28 pin IC socket installed and wire added. The wire restores the connection from CN2 to the reset input of the 8224 clock / timing generator IC in position 9D. I've also installed the smaller monolithic capacitor as replacement for C130 to the nearby through holes which connect to +5V and ground rails. On the solder side the blue wires carry the /ROM ADDR select signal and additional address lines A10, A11 and A12 to the 27128. 10k Ohm pullup resistors added from +5V to /PGM and A13. The A13 input will be used as the bank select signal, a small DIP switch to ground will select the Sky Love game. DIP switch added, 2 in 1 EPROM programmed and installed, original 2708 EPROMs removed. The modification could easily be reconfigured to support a 27256 EPROM, DIP switch position 2 would then be used to select additional, diagnostic software. The PCB will also still work correctly with the new EPROM removed and original 2708 EPROMS refitted. So I now have two working Shuttle Invader PCBs, both also capable of running Omori's obscure Sky Love game. The next step is to get back to the machine, test the monitor and power supply which both appear to be working to some extent and possibly overhaul those if required before refitting the game and colour PCBs and tidying up, checking controls etc. To be continued... Web Resources (External Links) - Omori Shuttle Invader and Sky Love running on a Shuttle Invader PCB - Youtube Shuttle Invader Part II Flyer - flyerfever.com Sky Love Flyer - flyerfever.com - Colour version - More machine and PCB repairs to come. Regards, John
    4 points
  29. Hi All Color sorted turns out the boards edge connector is a slack fit and has side play . So eye balling the alignment while fitting works fine now . Removed coin Mech blanked the hole and added coin in switch and wired it to coin in to switch-2 leaving coin in switch-1 circuit intact which includes a board . Only noticeable issue left is a slight waving of the screen .
    3 points
  30. Got mine in the mail a few days ago. Congrats to Paul! Your passion for these old games is second to none.
    3 points
  31. First thought in my head was it looked like a walking Robot dog. Funny how ones mind works.
    3 points
  32. Hi @yngbld , Yes you're right that the triggering on the CRO only applies to the horizontal sweep. The horizontal (x axis) represents 'time' and selecting the sweep rate sets the scale of time per division from seconds to microseconds. And the vertical (y axis) represents Voltage so the CRO display is a graph of the instantaneous Voltage Vs. time or signal vs. time At slower sweep rates we can see details in our signal which have a lower frequency or repetition rate. Turning our horizontal sweep knob clockwise increases our sweep rate and displays a smaller time per division, revealing details which have a higher frequency or repetition rate. At any sweep rate, to see the signal clearly without 'rolling' we need a trigger point, either within the signal itself or another timing reference with the same repetition rate as the details we are trying to view. So the TV trigger mode applies specifically to TV / video signals and is included in some CROs as TV / video servicing would be one of the most common applications for a CRO. Video signals are quite complex as there are two simultaneous timebases contained within the video signal, Horizontal and Vertical (not the same as the horizontal and vertical axes on our CRO) - even more complex in the case of composite colour signals for television but we will stick to non-interlaced, monochrome or RGB signals as used in arcade machines... As we know the raster image displayed on most arcade screens is built up line by line, the 'horizontal' line rate is around 15.7kHz so repeats about every 64 microseconds. About 260 -262 lines are traced out by the monitor ( a few near the top and bottom of screen are blank ) then a vertical retrace must be triggered and the process repeats, from the top. This takes about 16 milliseconds resulting in a 'frame rate' around 60Hz. Of course the video signal does alter from line to line and from each frame to the next as it is a moving image but in many cases there are common elements which repeat in the same position each line or each frame. - A lot of fault conditions also occur in a fixed location on the display so being able to trace these errors back to their source is the point in question. I'll try to illustrate the Hsync / Vsync triggering, using a basic TV test pattern; Here I've just connected a monochrome, composite grey scale test pattern to the test bench monitor. As we can see, each line is the same and consists of a pattern which steps down from white to black in 8 steps. Using our TV trigger, at 10 microseconds per division we can see the CRO locks onto our Hsync and displays the contents of each line. Even though the display is showing multiple lines superimposed the image is clear as every line is the same. This is composite video so the levels we can see are: sync 0V, black 0.3V, white 1.0V grey inbetween 0.3 and 1.0V. Using the same signal but changing our sweep rate to 2 milliseconds per division and adjusting the trigger level until the display is stable we can see the CRO now just triggers on the Vsync which is the brighter patch on the 0V line at the left and right of display. The faint trace between those is made up by the horizontal sync pulses. We can now see a full frame of video beginning with Vsync, a few blank lines then all of our 'horizontal' lines until the couple of blank lines at the end of frame and the next Vsync repeats the cycle. Although the pattern above just looks like continuous Voltage levels we can expand that display using our 'x10 MAG' button and see the individual sync pulses and lines of video. The x10 MAG control just causes the horizontal sweep to overscan and we can use the horizontal position control to scroll along from the beginning to end in more detail. ( It should normally be OFF and just used to zoom in on a trace for more detail. We can zoom in even further using our second timebase and delay trigger but that is a more advanced topic.) So having expanded our previous image we can see the longer Vsync pulse followed by some blank lines then some of our active lines showing the grey scale from white to black and horizontal sync pulses inbetween each line. (I've turned off the room light to see this a little clearer in the photo) - All of the images here are displaying the same signal, just looking at different features; within a line, the overall frame and showing part of a frame in greater detail. Hope that helps to clarify the CRO timebase and triggering on specific time scales within a complex signal. Regards, John.
    3 points
  33. AA updated to Invision Community 4.7.16 Released 03/12/2024 Key Changes This is our March maintenance release. This release also includes an important security related fix for Commerce users. New features: Pages Databases in Clubs Additional Information Security Resolves an issue in Commerce when tampering with filters could cause errors. Core Improved the efficiency when getting attachments for topic statistics. Improved the efficiency of streams when "Content I posted in" is selected. Improved the Internal Embeds system to show better error messages for deleted comments & reviews. Improved performance of invalidating member sessions when using Redis. Added new Moderator actions by action statistics section. Fixed Checkbox Overview Statistics not working properly. Fixed Moderator Activity statistics table not displaying properly. Fixed Warnings over time statistics table not displaying properly. Fixed Suspended users over time statistics table not displaying properly. Fixed saved charts not displaying data correctly when custom form filters are used. Fixed Geographical Charts CSV download not generating properly. Fixed an issue where creating an activity stream in the ACP could be missing the clubs filter. Fixed an issue where the badge title would be shown as hash value in translated notification emails. Fixed an issue where the Posts Per Day Limit was also used for private messages. Fixed an issue in the members/warnings endpoint where the POST request could fail while giving a member a warning if warning actions were present. Fixed an issue where deleting content may send a delete request to Community Hive, even if it was not enabled. Fixed an issue where 3rd party applications with a broken/missing versions file would break the upgrader. Fixed an issue where members with a false validation flag would be unable to login. Fixed an issue where the Google Maps Autocomplete Integration could display an error message. Fixed an issue where not all clubs may be shown on the member profile clubs page. Replaced the hardcoded forum_id in the promotion achievement extension. Fixed an issue where the Signature Settings page couldn't be accessed to change the signature visibility, without permissions to edit signatures. Fixed an issue where new comment notifications posted in anonymous topics were showed as posted by an anonymous member. Fixed an issue with the post count value for the Mass Move /Mass Delete action. Fixed an issue where delayed deleted content from private clubs isn't shown in the ModCP - Deleted Content area. Fixed the default value for the Manifest related manifest_details setting. Fixed an issue where the guest group settings couldn't be edited. Fixed an issue where YouTube embeds may not lazy-load. Fixed an issue where the guest group settings couldn't be edited. Fixed an issue where admins with permission to manage stored replies could still not manage these. Fixed an issue where the club filters could cause an EX0 error when a not existing field was used. Blogs Fixed an issue where moving a blog entry and sending a moderation alert may cause an error. Forums Added new Solved Topics by Group statistics section. Added new Unsolved Topics statistics section. Added Top Solvers statistics section. Courses Fixed Enrollments statistics table not displaying status correctly. Fixed an issue where sorting the enrollments in the ACP by name would throw an error. Fixed a missing language string. Fixed not translatable module titles. Pages Added ability for database categories to be added to Clubs. Views are now tracked for Pages. Fixed an issue where pages were not reindexed after WYSIWYG blocks were added/edited. Fixed an issue where record thumbnails which were created via the REST API hadn't the proper thumbnail size. Platform Page views for pages will now be included in analytics reports. Fixed an issue with the post before registering flow when content was identified as spam. Commerce Fixed an issue with the subscriptions member filter. Fixed a broken default value in the businessAddress. Fixed an issue in the commerce categorySidebar template. Events Added organizer, eventAttendanceMode, and VirtualLocation to events JSON_LD. Fixed an issue where guests searching for events could see an error. Downloads Fixed an issue in the Downloads File Embed Template where the comment count was shown for files in categories without comments. Gallery Fixed an issue where the vertical image widget wouldn't show the image in Chrome. Fixed missing alt texts for event cover images. Converters Improved conversion of attachments in WordPress, Attachments will now be converted inside posts instead of converting to media files.
    3 points
  34. Thanks Lambo and everyone else who TDs, reps, etc. Couldn't happen without the people in the background. And IFPA results are live now.
    3 points
  35. Excellent story thank you for sharing !! Thank you for purchasing a T Shirt supporting towards a charitable cause !! I totally agree with you Pinfest can change people lives, and with our donation to a charity it is also adding benefit to the entire community. I also believe in the benefit of the pinball community coming together in a forum where we all can relate to each other in the same pastime whilst in a relaxed atmosphere.
    3 points
  36. Can I ask is the above thoughts towards a possible business venture or doing a couple of homebrews just for yourself ? I think based on the desired ceiling costs of $5000, it would be difficult if starting from scratch for a traditional machine especially given the strength of our dollar - given new cabinet, legs, brackets, boardsets, displays, hardware, plastic art and cut, getting custom parts made, cab art, glass, hardware for the cabinet / playfield etc, programming etc etc. For me: - I am not releasing designs yet but working on a different cabinet which has some negatives but also some positives - some will like it and some might like it - with the different cabinet results in a different playfield with an extra dimension and different options for play and design - hopefully something fresh - also with the goal to swap playfields and a system in the back for adding a second game to directly play against like game - or in the case of dukes of hazzard - one game is the dukes and the other is boss hogg and crew - designing and routing and 3d printing is right up my alley / wiring is mostly doable if something that I can relate it to, but programming is my handbrake and yes as KJS has said I have designed a tube time playfield (which is still on the project list and still a surfing theme but a different story line), and a dukes of hazzard playfield but my weakness is the fear of programming failure so just stop when it comes to the next step for me. I also have been super busy with mods but reallllly want to do a homebrew - the itch is getting bigger - for the unique cabinet / playfield I have another theme that would be a perfect promoter for what I want to do but still have quite a bit of designing and problem solving to conquer. - also I have had the dream of supplying my concept cabinet with a raw basic playfield, basic mechs ready to flip so a homebrewer can take the playfield out and add lanes, mechs, ramps, art etc but the flippers work, ball loading and launching mech work, scoring works. The home brewer can add mechs, art and program when they are comfortable. I also think games need to be more portable as imagine you could fit a game in the rear of your station wagon along with at least 3 people and easily carry up the steps to a friends place, get through a door way, as well as a few other benefits which I will not mention quite yet.
    3 points
  37. Hey Russ, loving your project as I always like to see how resourceful people can be when money IS an issue! Do yourself a BIG favour though - close up the PC case until your cab is complete, as you never know what you may accidentally drop into it in the meantime!!!
    3 points
  38. 3 points
  39. Great topic @Autosteve . I'm thinking this thread is going to evolve into a wealth of knowledge for each other to bounce off and gather resources. Onya Steve.
    3 points
  40. I have been wanting to do a homebrew for quite awhile but the programing has had me on pause for a long while. The elements I am hoping to start with soon are: 1. MPF for sure to get something up and running 2. been checking out Cobrapin board set and alpha numeric board - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1254-cobra-amusements/05162-cobrapin-pinball-controller 3. have mocked up a unique cab design reducing some of the parts and associated costs 4. and FINALLY reckon there is a chance if say you teamed up with at least 2 other like minded people and that way you split the costs and effort and then have 3 x homebrews all the same theme / layout out (1 for each team member) and if successful do it again and expand the collection and range. I say at least 3 people - 1 with the wood & 3d print skills, 1 with the art skills, and 1 with the programming skills, and maybe a fourth for the music / sounds - and then split the costs and effort
    3 points
  41. 3 points
  42. hi assuming this sold yeah?
    3 points
  43. Being a Japanese Candy from that era, It more than likely had Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. I’m leaning toward Seimitsu PS-14’s. Either those or OBSF/N-30’s. Sanwa buttons are featherlight with the Seimitsu requiring a small amount more force for activation. The general consensus is that the former is very suitable for fighting games and the latter suitable for all types of games. This page has some Excelena fit outs from users here which might get your creative ideas flowing: https://www.cqbarcade.com/pages/gallery I have a scattered mix of the two in my cabs and fight sticks. But if I had to pick one, I’d go the Seimitsu. Sanwa is great for fighting games but are also quite sensitive to the touch. You could always get Seimitsu for P1 and Sanwa for P2. That’s how a lot of arcades in Japan cater to player preferences - it will also give you an idea of what you like personally with some play time.
    3 points
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