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  1. Well, I finally got off my ass and finished painting and flooring. The games garage is nearing its final form. Just need to fix up my driving cab, get some posters on the walls and move in a kegerator 😁
    13 points
  2. A pinball story …. About 30 years ago I got a Gottlieb 1964 World Fair. …. at the time it was in fair (sort of) condition. I re-did the cabinet art, as it had been changed. I got a Shay repro, and went through the whole machine. It has been on its legs and playing since then. Then in about 2010 I purchased a NOS playfield. To be more correct it was a ‘second’ or reject playfield. It came with some small issues but there were lots of them. We started playfield touch up in about 2012…. and finally finished it in 2022 …. So, after all that I just had to swap the playfield over which I’ve now done. After a couple of weeks chasing small issues like centering the pop bumper spoons, adjusting some switches, resoldering anything that came loose etc etc it is now playing really well and reliably, just as it has all the years I’ve owned it. The new playfield ain’t perfect, but it presents like a new playfield and has clean timber and fresh colors in the paint. My 30 year resto is complete. I really like this game. It’s a players’ game and the backglass art is fantastically good. I’ve had lots of fun with World Fair since I first played it at The Crystal Palace in George St Sydney in about 1965.
    10 points
  3. Mine just arrived. Right on time for the weekend. Have to check the levels it feels like it might need a slight tweak.
    10 points
  4. I am fairly new to owning a pinball in this hobby (1 year), but am an old soul that has played from the mid sixties. I grew up in England, have lived most of my life in the USA. I have traveled the world with the Offshore Oil Industry and the Dept of Defense. The closest I ever got to AUS was a month spent in Southern Borneo, Banjarmasin. Last year, I bought a 1992 Bally WPC89 Doctor Who pinball that had a rough life being routed. I got a fairly good deal on it, seeing it needed a lot of work. I learned on the job repairing, restoring and replacing parts. I must say, it looks very nice now and plays awesome. Life long Dr. Who fan. Saw the First Doctor on a Black/White TV that my Nan had in London. The Daleks really scared me as a child and I have been hooked ever since. EXTERMINATE...
    10 points
  5. It has been 15 years since I last set up mame and it was such a mission for me back then. The set up I had was also not something I was ever really happy with but I was too scared to mess with it because it worked and I didn't want that to change. Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting namastepat. I had never met Pat before but he kindly reached out and generously helped a fellow AAer. All I need now is a PS/2 to USB adaptor and I will be back playing arcade games again. Pat is such a terrific guy and I am so grateful for his help. I feel very fortunate to be a part of this great small community that we have here.
    10 points
  6. Painted the bottom of the cab pics are as it was paint in the raw will have to do some tidy up on it Stencil was very sticky and left some glue
    9 points
  7. I don’t think I shared final finished photos of my OutRun restore. Here it is fully complete. It’s now running a PCB called SMARTIPI that plugs into the OutRun harness and plays OutRun, Canonball, Power Drift and Turbo OutRun. It took a couple of years to fully finish this restore but it was worth it in the end.
    8 points
  8. All the best for the new year guys! NNC finally got its all white Sanwa’s and netdimm and Astro finally got its marquee. Thanks to none other than the mayne @mR_CaESaR!!! Hope everyone’s well Tom
    7 points
  9. Spanish Lap by Lap full cabinet including legs free for pickup. Cabinet has a bit of damage but could be recovered quite easily. Backbox has a bit of damage but again I would call it recoverable. Would be an ideal candidate for a virtual pin especially with its interesting shape cabinet and legs. Pickup from Westlake 4074. Ray
    7 points
  10. Mystery Prizes Draw: Since MGL50 is the biggest milestone in MGL tournament history, and to celebrate this amazing 16 year journey, 2 mystery prize draws will be given away. 35 gamers were eligible at the end of the tournament for the 2 special mystery prize draws. All players had to play and post a score for all 11 games. The eligible players are listed below: The winners are drawn by chance from the eligible players. And the winners of the Mystery Prize Draw for MGL50 are … Tracey Congratulations! Your mystery prizes are as follows … 1. An ATARI Centipede Cap 2. Pac-man Playing Cards 3. Tech Deck - Sonic the Hedgehog 4. Super Mario Bros. Multi Tool 5. Pac-man Plate (8 inch) 6. Super Mario Scarf 7. Marvel Avengers Mystery Mini Blind Pack 8. Pokemon Pokeball Green and 9. Super Mario PEZ - Luigi Congratulations also to … wirre.the.man Your mystery prizes are as follows … 1. POP Splinter from TMNT 2. Super Mario UHU Glue Sticks Set 3. Pac-man Plate (10 inch) 4. Space Invaders Playing Cards 5. Super Mario Beanie 6. Tech Deck Street Hits - Sonic 7. Super Nintendo Notebook 8. Minions Folder and 9. Donkey Kong PEZ Candy and Dispenser I will send a PM to both Henrik and Tracey to congratulate them on their prize wins and ship them to their postal address. That is the conclusion of the MGL50 prize draws. Thank you to everyone who played all of the games in MGL50. OOO 🦗
    7 points
  11. The final tournament of the 2021 season has just been completed. 59 gamers battled their way in this challenging competition as follows: Congratulations to all competitors that played in this tournament. It was a tremendous effort to compete on 11 different video games. We had 1 new game never played before in MGL history, which was Solar Fox from Bally Midway. Donkey Kong and Pac-man were played for the first time since MGL31 from 2017, that’s just over 4 years ago. Bubble Bobble and Bomb Jack were far from B games, being excellent fun and challenging titles. Vanguard hasn’t been played for over 12 years, wow! In this tournament, 11 different gamers had at least one of their games drawn from the nomination game pool. These were from Ace1942, BandontheRun, Foot, HAL1973, Lasse.lo (2), Mappy24, NZL Berserker, redelf, SMK, wirre.the.man and ZNC. 5 gamers made their MGL debut. These were Bruzzi (best 452,910 on Moon Patrol for 1st place), Dk3champ (best 3,363,200 on Donkey Kong 3 for 1st place), JohnnyBee (best 613,560 on Bomb Jack for 8th place), Vtdmame (best 113,960 on Pac-man for 18th place) and Synappzz (best 1,822,700 on Donkey Kong 3 for 2nd place and MGL50 overall 4th place). That’s great gaming by all debutants. With 11 games contested there were 8 different game winners: Bruzzi (1), DaLar (1), Dbh (2), Dk3champ (1), Fly (1), GMU (1), Jerky (1) and Redelf (3). That’s one more game winner compared to MGL49, and two more game winners compared to MGL48. Congratulations to the game winners for achieving the high score on these games … I have updated the virtual trophies for the Top 3 … with the ultimate video game fire starter from Space Invaders … Champion: John McAllister 2nd: Donald Hayes 3rd: Shannon Hamill 32 gamers finished within a single digit of each other, which are 10 more than from MGL49. The competition was extremely close for most going into the last 3 games of the tournament. 17 gamers scored over 900 points which was a terrific result (2 more than in MGL49). 4 of these gamers scored over 1,000 points for an even higher distinction (2 less than MGL49). There were 3 ties in the Top 40 on the scoreboard. SMK and RichyS both finished with 904 points for 16th place. The head to head count was 7-4 to SMK and he took out 16th place, while RichyS took out 17th place. Bensweeneyonbass and Tracey both finished with 795 points for 26th place. The head to head count was 6-5 to Bensweeneyonbass, so he took out 26th place, while Tracey took out 27th place. Fire_Power and Lasice both finished with 745 points for 31st place. The head to head count was 6-5 to Fire_Power, so he took out 31st place, while Lasice took out 32nd place. Congratulations to John McAllister, who top scored with 1067 points, to win his 2nd MGL title. After a great start in the tournament, winning Games 1 and 2, he played at an exceptionally high level throughout, even with a major shoulder injury, to clinch it. He won 3 games, was runner up in 2 games, and has now played 123 games in the MGL. He now has 23 x MGL game wins, 3rd on the all time list, not far behind Robert Macauley with 27 wins (2nd place), and Andrew Barrow with 28 wins (1st place). Donald Hayes finished in 2nd place with 1,056 points, only 11 points behind the tournament winner. He won 2 games and was runner up in 4 games. His score of 3,327,100 points on Pac-man was outstanding, only 6,260 points away from another perfect Pac-man score. It was a very close competition for 1st place during all 11 games of the tournament. Shannon Hamill from Canada played in his first ever MGL, and finished in a brilliant 3rd place. His best scores were 1,822,700 points on Donkey Kong 3 for 2nd place, and 4th place on both Pac-man and Solar Fox. It was an excellent debut for a podium finish. Patrick Stanley finished in 4th place with 1,013 points, only 5 points behind Shannon in 3rd place. His best results were on Lunar Rescue with 17,720 points for 3rd place, and 115,480 points on Lady Bug for 4th place. It was a steady fine performance across all of the games in the race for vital WCE5 Championship points. Darren Mcgahey finished in 5th place with 998 points. His best scores were 5th place on Moon Patrol and 6th place on Lady Bug, Lunar Rescue and Pac-man. He has now amassed 12,697 all time MGL points, 21st on the most points list. Jeff Mikuska finished in a fine 6th place with 974 points, and played his 170th MGL game. His best scores were 4th place on Donkey Kong and 7th place on Lunar Rescue. He has now played in 20 MGL tournaments with a game average of 89.0 Daniel Larsen finished in a great 7th place, just 6 points behind 6th place. He won Bubble Bobble with 3,791,530 points, and was runner up on Bomb Jack with 1,544,960 points. Daniel increased his WCE all time points to 17,404, closely followed by Robert Macauley in 2nd place with 17,346. Charlie Milne finished in a very nice 8th place, 2 places better than in MGL49. With a total of 967 points, his best scores were 3rd place on Donkey Kong with 430,500 points, and 6th place on Solar Fox with 41,170 points. He has now played 91 x MGL games, only one tournament short of the magical 100 club of the MGL Centurions. Derek Broadfoot finished in 9th place, after a superb effort on Lady Bug of 216,630 points for 2nd place on that game. His next best was 6th place on Donkey Kong with 323,800 points. He scored at an average of 87.1 across the 11 games, 1.2 points better than his all time MGL average of 85.9. That’s a good sign of improvement. Robert Macauley finished in 10h place in his 37th MGL tournament. His best score was 3rd place on Bubble Bobble with 2,210,060 points. Next best was 6th place on Moon Patrol with 196,610 points. He has now finished in the Top 10 for 37 consecutive MGL tournaments, which is an incredible accomplishment over such a very long time. Arcadinator finished just outside the Top 10 with a very nice 11th place after scoring a total of 950 points. His best score was on Vanguard for 4th place, next best on Bomb Jack for 5th place, and next best on Bubble Bobble for 6th place. He has now played 89 MGL games and scored 7,732 all time points. Pessimeister scored 944 points and finished in 12th place. His best finish was 3rd place on Solar Fox with 428,570 points and next 5th place on Lunar Rescue with 19,870 points. He also passed the 150 MGL games played milestone with 154. Jacob Spring didn’t miss a game this time and scored a total of 940 points for lucky 13th place. His best score was 4th place on Bubble Bobble with 1,966,450 points, with next best on Track & Field with 81,540 points for 5th place. He has now played in 105 x MGL games, joining the elite MGL Centurions, well done Jacob! Henrik Wiman played a really great MGL, always trying to improve his scores, and seeing the results really pay off. He scored 916 points and finished in 14th place. His best scores were 135,850 points on Lady Bug for 3rd place and 174,460 points on Solar Fox for 7th place. He has now played 80 games in 9 MGL tournaments. Svatopluk Halada played well to make the Top 15 with 905 points. His best scores were 4th place on Moon Patrol with 291,670 points, and 6th place on Donkey Kong 3 with 297,700 points. He has now played 64 games in 6 MGL tournaments, breaking the 5,000 points milestone, with 5,406. A special mention goes out to Wan1993, who has now scored over 5,000 points over 70 games in 8 MGL tournaments, with 5,060. To all gamers who finished in the Top 20, a big congratulations to you all, and those who just missed out or could do better, there is always a next time. Thank you to everyone who played in MGL50, this is for you to enjoy, and I hope you improved your gaming as much as possible. This was the final tournament of the 2021 season. It was a super terrific event, and an incredibly challenging year. The Mystery Prize Draw will commence shortly, followed by the WCE5 closing presentation. 🌴 OOO
    7 points
  12. What do you get when you give Valium to a lizard? A calmer, calmer, calmer, calmer, calmer chameleon.
    7 points
  13. Has anyone noticed that the world is gripped in a pandemic that affects not only supply of parts but also supply of labour due to sickness/isolation requirements and so on. Supporting a hobby of pinball games aren't going to be a countries main priority sorry to say. In this day and age you are taking a gamble IMO and you have to be patient. I've got a Fathom mermaid on order from Haggis here in Australia but they too are suffering from the worldwide pandemic. Be patient with each other. After over 50 years of working and now in forced retirement you learn that.
    7 points
  14. So... A Duck walks into a bar. He asks the bartender "You got any Bread?" Bartender says "Nah mate, this is a bar. We don't have any bread" The Duck says "Ah..." and pauses for a moment and asks "You got any Bread?" The Bartender is all confused and says "No mate, we don't have any Bread" The Duck pauses again, and says "Ah... You got any Bread?" Irritated, the Barman says "No. No Bread!" The Duck pauses, then asks "You got any Bread?" By now the Bartender has had enough. He says "No! for the last time we don't have any bloody bread! If you ask me again i'll grab you and nail your beak to this !@#$ bar!!" The Duck says "Ah... You got any Nails?" Bartender says "No" The Duck pauses for a moment and asks "You got any Bread?"
    7 points
  15. Really like the look of this game, and actually like the music. Thinking I’ll take one for the team and order one. Wish me luck! Havent heard of one other person interested. Might be a tough onsell - but maybe it’ll be bolted to the floor forever 😂
    7 points
  16. Only played this on Atari. Soon as I seen the title, I remembered that "Luthor destroys the Gond"
    7 points
  17. Happy new year! I wish everyone a happy and safe new year
    7 points
  18. All sorts of stats to go through and you keep coming up with great ones for all the players. You are the game master that's for sure, great interaction with all the players and games throughout the event. Great work Paul on another well run event. Thanks for all the hard work you put in to making it fun for everyone.
    6 points
  19. #107 landed woohoo! And yes, it is that good… 😃
    6 points
  20. Set up my game today, WOW great game! Insider Connect was easy, signed game into Wi-Fi - registered game online & good to go. 1st ball gets stuck in sling 😂
    6 points
  21. Yep, if anyone knows how to reduce the price of NIB LE's I'm all ears. Not proud of spending stupid money but the good thing about it is you can always make more. This really was a determined hard pass (even as a Rush fan) until I saw the design, the amount of music in it, and the LE cab art. I figure I'm doing my network of pinheads a favour as there isn't going to be many around. 🙂
    6 points
  22. Here's my biggest "stupid" which I somehow never learn from and keep repeating: 1) Enthusiastically jump up to the top platform, shooting all the way. 2) Super soak Kong until unable to do so due to incoming bee swarm 3) Merrily jump downwards to conceivably avoid incoming bee swarm. 4) Get hit by a bloody stinger on the downward trajectory. 5) Repeat!
    6 points
  23. One day a man decided to retire... He booked himself on a Caribbean cruise and proceeded to have the time of his life, that is, until the ship sank. He soon found himself on an island with no other people, no supplies, nothing, only bananas and coconuts. After about four months, he is lying on the beach one day when the most gorgeous woman he has ever seen rows up to the shore. In disbelief, he asks, "Where did you come from? How did you get here?" She replies, "I rowed over from the other side of the island where I landed when my fishing boat sank." "Amazing," he notes. "You were really lucky to have a row boat wash up with you." "Oh, this ole thing?" explains the woman. " I made the boat out of some raw material I found on the island. The oars were whittled from gum tree branches. I wove the bottom from palm tree branches, and the sides and stern came from an Eucalyptus tree." "But, where did you get the tools?" "Oh, that was no problem," replied the woman. " On the south side of the island, a very unusual stratum of alluvial rock is exposed. I found that if I fired it to a certain temperature in a volcanic vent I found just down island, it melted into ductile iron and I used that to make tools and used the tools to make the hardware." The guy is stunned. "Let's row over to my place," she says "and I'll give you a tour." So, after a short time of rowing, she soon docks the boat at a small hand built wharf. As the man looks to shore, he nearly falls off the boat. Before him is a long stone walk leading to a cabin and tree house. While the woman ties up the rowboat with an expertly woven hemp rope, the man can only stare ahead, dumb struck. As they walk into the house, she says casually, It's not much, but I call it home. Please sit down." "Would you like a drink?" "No! No thank you," the man blurts out, still dazed. "I can't take another drop of coconut juice." "Oh, it's not coconut juice," winks the woman. "I have a still. How would you like a Jack Daniels neat?" Trying to hide his continued amazement, the man accepts, and they sit down on her couch to talk. After they exchange their individual survival stories, the woman announces, "I'm going to slip into something more comfortable. Would you like to take a shower and shave? There's a razor in the bathroom cabinet upstairs." No longer questioning anything, the man goes upstairs into the bathroom. There, in the cabinet is a razor made from a piece of tortoise bone. Two shells honed to a hollow ground edge are fastened on to its end inside a swivel mechanism. "This woman is amazing," he muses. "What's next?" When he returns, she greets him wearing nothing but a bandana around her blonde locks and some small flowers on tiny vines, each strategically positioned. She smelled faintly of coconut oil. She then beckons for him to sit down next to her. "Tell me," she begins suggestively, slithering closer to him, "We've both been out here for many months. You must have been lonely. When was the last time you had a really good ride?" She stares into his eyes. He can't believe what he's hearing. "You mean..." he swallows excitedly as tears start to form in his eyes, "You've built a Motorcycle?”
    6 points
  24. 6 points
  25. redelf 2443890 Had dreams of reaching kill screen, guess I'll try again later
    6 points
  26. This is the hot topic? not restores or helping people?
    6 points
  27. Pessimeister: 89, 200 I've honestly never played this before; what an odd game. It's like it's possessed by Satan's Hollow or something. My wild barrel trauma from DK is going to get worse it seems. 😄
    6 points
  28. I’m currently on a whiskey diet. I’ve lost three days so far!
    6 points
  29. The lower cabinet is now complete, added the flipper buttons, glass runners and new rails from @Railways, Thank you 😀 I also decided not to put the doubled sided tape under the rails, it is only for home use and it seemed sturdy enough without it. Things are coming along nicely, next step is to put on the legs, connect the head and work out the head hinges. btw, just wondering if anyone noticed that I painted the three bolts on the side to blend in, I thought it looked better than the black.
    5 points
  30. Quite easily my most challenging and difficult MGL with many great classic games where I felt way behind in knowledge and experience. Rob and Darren pushed me all the way but the inclusion of Solar Fox and Vanguard definitely saved my tournament in the end; the former of which I really enjoyed. It's also super humbling to be playing alongside arcade legends like the redelf and DBH. Thanks very much once again to our resident game master @OOO for truly making this a festival of fun for gamers. It's made for a memorable summer indeed. 🍻
    5 points
  31. It’s a fine line between time to improvement vs beers consumed, Despite going deeper into the game I have not increased my score. I do like beer 🍻
    5 points
  32. If you're like me, you digitise all your schematics when you get them and then work off the copy. I thought I'd quickly share the tools I use for this. Number one: Hugin: http://hugin.sourceforge.net/ This is a stitching tool that can be configured to work with multiple scans of a single sheet. There's a tutorial here: http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/scans/en.shtml Working off a digital copy is a bit shit sometimes so enter... Number two: Rasterbator: https://rasterbator.net/ This lets you upload an image, then specify how many pages of A3 or A4 paper you'd like to print it on, and then generates a PDF with overlaps and cut lines so you can stick it back together if needed. For example: Results in a very useful PDF of the image, neatly chopped up onto pages etc.
    5 points
  33. Im in 🙂 Gotta sell Acca Dacca to make room for set up 🥺
    5 points
  34. Get rid of the battery holder and change the sram to an NVRAM. I sell them as does tangles. Clean up the corrosion. Use some bicarb soda and water to neutralise the acid, then thoroughly clean the area and use alcohol if you have some to remove any residue. Ideally tin the tracks that have been tarnished. A fibreglass pen is great for polishing the tarnish from the tracks if its too badly tarnished to solder. And finally if you really want to go the extra step, cover the traces again with a mask such as https://www.chemtronics.com/circuitworks-overcoat-pens which can be bought from many different places online.
    5 points
  35. Pessimeister: 259, 380 Made rack 30 but didn't quite reach the scoring heights I expected. I also tested the C64 conversion today for fun and got 350k. It's definitely easier and not as busy but the core gameplay is well realised.
    5 points
  36. Here’s the after progress of the Steering handle work. All parts were striped down, degreased and cleaned. Parts were repainted and then reassembled and greased. Some wiring had exposed metal so these were cut, soldered and heat shrinked. The bumpers that had melted were replaced with rubber blocks that were drilled and then cut to size. The plastic cover was cleaned, polished and the start button striped and cleaned too. Handles were scrubbed with a toothbrush and warm soapy water. The brake lever was missing and the only place I could find a dedicated one was in the USA. I managed to pick up an identical looking lever from an Aussie online motorbike shop (MX Store). Just a little work left to connect it to the brake pot. Lastly I added a ‘Turbo’ button as the plan will be to run a multi board in the cab that plays Racing Hero, Super Hang On, Hang On and Hang On Jr.
    5 points
  37. Fixed my wifi issues. Metal backbox is pretty much a faraday cage plus what seems to be a pretty poor wifi adapter even with its giant dual antennas (I wonder if they are fake). The head drops the signal by atleast 60%. So if your signal was marginal to start with it wont help, my access point is upside down roof mounted about 5 meters away from the top of godzilla. Used my phone which had significantly better reception and used it to understand what attenutation was caused by the back box and/or location of antenna. Inside : 92mbps. Default adapter position. Front : 227 mbps top : 233 mbps I didnt want to have to look at the antenna sitting on top of the machine so I moved it. Detach the adaptor and put the usb through the topper hole, reattach the adapter and zip tie to the back and see if that helps. Use a phone app to help determine you best position.
    5 points
  38. Yep. Like Aerosmith too. I'm totally broken. 🙂
    5 points
  39. Right now it looks like a negative test 72 hours prior to arrival will get me in and getting home isn't an issue so.... Flights and accomodation booked. Other comps paid for. Barring any last minute dramas I'm in
    5 points
  40. So another few days, and some progress. A few rubbers ordered as well as flipper bats and new buttons - one bat was smashed, and the buttons had been attacked with a ciggie lighter at some point. The playfield went back together well, I am glad that I could find some reference pics on the net to help out. The only item missing was a wire form from the return gate, so off to the shed to bend one up from some piano wire I happened to have. If you ever need to do this, be sure to add the extra bend underneath to prevent he gate from flipping "over" and getting stuck in the open position. You can juuust see it peeking out on the left side in the pic... I had a scare with the spinners. The painted on graphics are extremely delicate. I went to use a gentle bit of novus 2, but the paint instantly softened. Tried windex, same thing. Just used a cotton swab and leaned the white sections only. Luckily I didn't mess them up, but it was very close. With a few small items ordered, the PF is now pretty complete. All new 44 bulbs also installed, and sockets cleaned - although the under pf ones were still shiny. Really only the back box ones look crusty... Getting there:
    5 points
  41. Bit more progress, some changes needed but nearly together.
    5 points
  42. Come on stern what are you doing make a moterhead pin
    5 points
  43. 246100 New PB 👍 while taking a break from grinding Moon Patrol (rage quits by the billion!)
    5 points
  44. I know Rush from the drummer Neil Peart who is an amazing drummer. The music i dont care for but the drumming is insane. Unfortunately when the drummer is the most revered musician of a band by a long way it doesn't usually speak well for the bands songs.
    5 points
  45. I've been asked to repair a couple of original arcade machines so I'll document their progress here. I'm reluctant to take on too many of these repairs at once due to limited space and time. As we know such repairs can be VERY time consuming so I'll stick with machines which I can approach with some confidence and hopefully provide a successful result within a reasonable time frame. At this stage I'm only looking to service and repair the machine electronics, leaving any cabinet restoration tasks to the owner once the machine is repaired and fully functional. Machines or game boards which I'm most likely to consider taking on include ones which are the same or similar to those which I've already researched, repaired and possibly have existing test setups for, such as: Pong and Pong clones such as Mirco Challenge, Space Invaders and Invader style games e.g. Space Fever, Missile Command and similar Atari PCBs like Centipede, Exerion and other pre-JAMMA titles such as Moon Patrol. So here we go! First cab off the rank is this Nintendo Space Fever B&W cocktail machine from 1979. It's a great candidate for repair and also for restoration as it's all there to begin with, it is significant and fairly rare as well. An Invader style game with some unique variations, even enhancements it's definitely not just a direct copy of Taito's Space Invaders. It is a rather understated and largely forgotten page in Nintendos evolution, during the 'Invader Boom' in Japan sales of these machines probably helped Nintendo on their way to creating more ground breaking games such as Donkey Kong only 2 years later. A lot of these machines were imported into Australia from Japan for a second run after their popularity there had peaked so there's probably more of them surviving here than anywhere else. This one reportedly isn't running at all so the first step will be to check each major section; power supply and cabinet wiring, monitor, game PCB and see if each is working or not. Beginning with a look inside to ensure nothing has come adrift it's nice to see the original power regulator is still present, many would have been replaced by now with a standard switchmode arcade power supply. A 100V stepdown transformer has been added to the power input wiring to suit our 240V mains. That needs a tidy up and some sort of shield added for electrical safety. A new power switch has already been fitted, turning it on there's a faintly audible hum from the power supply but no sign of life from the monitor and no sound from the speaker. Operating the micro switch on the coin mechanism results in a click from the coin counter but no other sound or activity. Trying the game start and controls now there's still no image on the monitor and no sound from the speaker, the sound amplifier is within the monitor so a monitor fault could cause the loss of both picture and sound. Interestingly, the 2 Player Start button also causes a click from the coin counter. Investigating, it turns out that button has been linked with a wire to the coin switch, making a rough and ready credit button. On the bright side, it didn't require any drilling or adding extra buttons to the machine but personally I'd remove the link and reinstate the coin mechanism which should be set for 20c coins. Measuring the power supplies now, the +5V,+12V, -5V and +24V are all present at the game PCB connectors.The latter is apparently only used for the coin counter which seems strange as 12V coin counters were readily available and could have saved some extra circuitry. So at least the power supply is working though I'll still check it for swollen or leaky capacitors at some point, a common problem with these apparently. It's difficult to tell if the game PCB is completely dead as the monitor isn't working and even the sound is via the amplifier on the monitor chassis so I'll try it with an external monitor. The video is monochrome, seems to have separate sync and would be 60Hz but I'm not sure if the Video is standard or inverted and the Sync negative or positive. There doesn't seem to be any documentation available for the B&W version so I'll have to work out the details specific to this model as I go. Making up a little video cable to try it with my RGB modified Sanyo TV using only the Green input and Sync there's no image on that monitor either. Looks like I'll have to make up a full test lead and troubleshoot the game PCB on the bench, also repairing the monitor separately. 20/11/21 So far I've tested the major parts of this Nintendo Space Fever (B&W) cocktail machine and it seems I need to repair the monitor as well as the game PCB also overhaul the power supply and tidy up the wiring. The original monitor actually uses an AV modded Black and White TV chassis, complete with no longer required IF stage inside a metal shield and a combined power switch and volume control. Tracing the input voltage it turns out that power switch has failed. Fortunately it is not required as the machine's main power switch is used to turn the monitor on or off, along with the power to the game PCB. To correct the fault I simply bypass the switch with a wire link on the solder side of the chassis PCB. That gets the monitor running with a faint raster but looking closely at the PCB many of the electrolytic capacitors have a residue from some leakage around them. To be safe I've decided to make up a list, order and replace most of the electrolytics on this PCB using slightly increased Voltage and temperature ratings where possible to ensure longevity also cleaning up the residue in the process. Having done all that and using my usual test setup which supplies a RGBs signal from a multigame PCB, in this case only using the Green and Sync signals there is an image but the monitor appears to require a positive going sync signal while the test setup provides a more commonly used negative sync. As a result the image is shifted and the clamping circuit is not functioning correctly, the picture being washed out with retrace lines visible. I could make up an inverter for the sync signal from my test setup using a transistor but think I'll just put the monitor back in the machine until I've finished repairing the original game PCB which will provide the required positive sync signal. One final test before removing the game PCB and the monitor shows a good raster without the retrace lines, the game board may be outputting sync but definitely no video at this stage. 24/11/21 I've made some progress with the Nintendo Space Fever repairs, the Black and White monitor is up and running and now I'm setting up the game PCB to troubleshoot and repair on the test bench. I don't have the exact connectors to match the ones used on the Nintendo PCB but do have some Single in Line sockets with the correct pitch which will do. They don't incorporate the locking function but that is not required for a test setup anyway. Using my standard arcade PSU I've connected all the Voltges to the required pins on the CPU and I/O boards except for the +24V which isn't required, only being used for the machine's coin counter. I don't have the extra space on my test bench for the original Black and White monitor so I'll be using my RGB modded NEC TV, adding a transistor inverter to the sync output from the I/O PCB and sending the Monochrome video to the Green input only. Next the low level audio from the sound PCB goes to an RCA connector which plugs into the NEC TVs audio input. Having done all that and powering the PCB up I get - nothing. There's no Sync or Video from the PCB, quickly checking the supplies are present then the clock signal test points on the I/O PCB, these confirm that the main crystal oscillator isn't running. Powering it off again, a closer visual inspection reveals one of the pins from the 20.160 MHz crystal has broken, right where it emerges from the package and not leaving enough of a stub to solder on to. It's a common problem, the legs are often brittle and prone to corrosion. What's not common, unfortunately is the crystal frequency. 20.160 MHz doesn't seem to be a commonly used frequency and I haven't been able to find an exact replacement. I do have some readily available 20MHz crystals though, which are only about 0.8% lower in frequency and I can't imagine any real problems or noticeable difference so I'll try one of those. That gets the clock running, sync from the I/O PCB and even some video so let's have a look: Hmmm - not great but better than nothing. There's no movement, if the power is cycled sometimes there is some random 'garbage' added to the image, possibly just the contents of the RAM at power on. I'll start with a look at the signals around the CPU to see if it is attempting to run. At this stage I would usually remove and verify the EPROMs but as these ceramic package ICs have notoriously fragile pins I don't want to risk breaking any, I'll try to diagnose the problems in-situ first. Checking all of the signals around the 8080A CPU, power supply rails and ground are correct, clock inputs; 12V signals at approx 2MHz both present. The RESET line (active High) is Low so that is correct. Control signals, address and data lines are all active but not as you would expect for a running program - the waveforms are all very repetitive as if the program is stuck in some sort of a reset loop. Looking further to try and find the reason for that, all of the 4116 RAM ICs have signals on their address inputs, data inputs and outputs so no obvious problem there. Checking the EPROMs, all have signals present but some of the address lines are barely active which seems wrong, they all appeared more 'normal' at the CPU end. Looking at the circuit diagram, the address lines are buffered by some 74LS08 AND gates before arriving at the bank of EPROMs so I'll check those next. When I check the signals at the 74LS08 ICs it seems some of the logic levels arriving at their inputs are wrong, resulting in the loss of some of the address activity on their outputs. So the fault is not the AND gates themselves, rather a poor connection between the CPU and their inputs, most likely caused by a bad CPU socket or corroded pins. I'll have to remove the CPU from its socket to have a look. As these PCBs were installed in the machine, mounted to a vertical surface one side of the CPU faced 'down' and was fairly unaffected by dirt or moisture settling on its pins. That side looks pretty good.. Unfortunately, the other side which faced 'up' was very corroded with a number of pins so badly deteriorated they just broke off and remained in the socket. So the CPU and its socket both need replacement. As luck would have it, I do have an 8080A CPU in stock as well as some 40 pin IC sockets. The CPU isn't spare exactly, I've been keeping it to repair one of my own projects but I can use it here and try to order a replacement to fix my 'Shuttle Invader' PCB later. Replacing the socket and installing the 'new' CPU (made in 1979 according to the date code on the IC) the game is now up and running, fantastic! There seem to be a few issues still to solve, some of the sounds appear to be missing so I'll check those next. 28/11/21 Repairs to the Nintendo Space Fever Cocktail have been progressing well, better than most of my own projects it seems! The Black and White monitor is running, waiting for the game PCB to be refitted for final test. The game PCB is also running now except for a few of the sounds which are missing. With the PCB set on the test bench, so far I've replaced the CPU as well as the crystal on the I/O PCB, both had failed due to corrosion. Fortunately as most of the ICs are oriented the other way their legs seem to be less affected than those on the 'high' side of the CPU or the crystal whose leads were also facing upwards and prone to dirt and moisture settling on them. I've also placed labels over the glass 'windows' on all of the EPROMs, although they are not easily erased by sunlight alone (I did try that once as an experiment) sitting around for decades with the machine open might pose some risk to their contents, who knows? For my own peace of mind I've covered them anyway. To fully test the game operation I've added connections to the player 1 and 2 controls, from a DB9 connector to suit my Quickshot joystick. To test both sets of controls independantly without needing a second cable I've wired Left, Right and Button 1 to Player 1 inputs with Up, Down and Button 2 connected to Player 2, just using a wire link for coin input, start and game select inputs. Having done that, everything is working well apart from the few missing sounds. The Sound PCB has two main sections, firstly an 8035 Microcontroller with 2708 EPROM which provides all of the musical tunes, Invader marching tones and UFO Flying / hit sounds. This is working while the other section uses a SN76477N complex sound generator to create the shots, Invader hit and Laser Base explosion sounds. These sound effects are all presently missing. The SN76477 sound generator was produced in two package sizes, a standard 28 pin DIP and the smaller SDIP form as used here which has about 2/3 the footprint of the regular DIP outline. Checking the supply rails and the logic ICs before the sound generator, all look OK so the sound IC must be faulty. Once again its pins on the right hand side which face up when installed in the machine are very rusty so I imagine this would be the cause. I don't have a spare one in stock, there are some on other boards I have but 'borrowing' one of those would be a last resort due to the extra time and risk of damaging one in the process of desoldering and reinstalling. Instead I'll order a 'new' one (probably still reclaimed from old PCBs I expect) and hope it arrives without undue delay. Meanwhile I'll put the board aside and give that Power Regulator module an overhaul. There's no point returning the repaired game PCB to the machine if the power module is just about to fail so it's worth doing a bit of preventative maintenance. 12/12/21 The Nintendo Space Fever cocktail machine I've been working on had multiple faults to begin with so I've been checking and repairing each major section separately to address one issue at a time. The Black and White monitor is up and running now, the game PCB set is also working except for a few missing sounds. I'm waiting on an IC to complete that repair so in the meantime I'll finish off the Power Supply and cabinet wiring. The power regulator module was working when tested but these units are known for deteriorating and leaking capacitors so I'll try to extend its working life by replacing those critical components before they completely fail. Opening the module up, the PCB is pretty crowded which doesn't help heat-wise. There are a few capacitors which have leaked some of their electrolyte onto the PCB which needs to be cleaned off and some which are discoloured due to being located a bit too close to heatsinks. Electrolytic capacitors don't heat up by themselves in normal operation but are affected by heat from other sources on the PCB such as power transistors, resistors and ICs. I'll replace the full set using a higher temperature rating, 105 Deg. instead of 85 Deg. also going for a slightly higher Voltage rating wherever possible to be on the safe side. As an added benefit the new capacitors are all slightly smaller than the originals they are replacing, providing a little more air space around them which will reduce their exposure to heat sources. Having done that, reassembling and re-testing all the Voltages look correct. Next issue to sort is the mains wiring. When the machine was converted to run on our 240V mains a stepdown transformer was added between the mains input and the original 100V cabinet wiring. Although this did work the stepdown transformer was neither fused nor switched and its terminals left exposed. After checking the original fuse holder and mains switch were sufficiently rated for 240V operation I've wired these to the primary (240V) side of the stepdown transformer so that is now switched as well as protected by a fuse and mains filter. Its 100V secondary goes to the input of the machines original transformer which provides the isolated 100V supply for the monitor as well as the secondary Voltages to the power regulator module. Connections from the mains input and to the stepdown transformer are now made using a row of insulated screw terminal connectors which allow for testing if required as well as easy replacement of the mains cable in case it becomes damaged at some point. I've also added a cable clamping grommet where the mains cable enters the machine. Lastly, I've folded up a heavy gauge metal shield to prevent inadvertant contact with the stepdown transformer terminals which I've also covered with heatshrink tubing. The shield is earthed to the body of the machine, strong enough to resist bending and without sharp edges. It's not fully enclosed to allow any heat from the transformer to dissipate. It all looks pretty functional and doesn't detract too much from the original appearance of the machine. Although very common in their day, so many of these machines were scrapped at the end of their commercial life, many others converted to later games or more recently 'upgraded' to a MAME setup, spoiling their originality. Readers of a sensitive nature should skip the next paragraph... I've also been reliably told that the metal tub which is the main part of the Nintendo cocktail cabinets was suitable for use as a planter trough or raised garden bed! So if you come across a machine like this one which retains all of its original components after more than 40 years, spare a thought for the many which didn't survive and are now pushing up daisies. 28/12/21 The replacement sound IC for the Nintendo Space Fever has arrived and having soldered it in (no socket due to its uncommon package size) all the sounds are present again, the game is fully working! It's time to put it back in the machine and check it out as a whole, the monitor hadn't been fully tested and may need some final tweaking. Double checking all the connections then powering it up, the monitor works but the picture is rolling. The Horizontal hold is a coil with a plastic knob which turns a ferrite grub, the Vertical hold is a potentiometer with a plastic shaft which would also have protruded from the back of the TV along with the brightness control but as installed in this machine they all face downwards and are quite difficult to reach. Anyway, the horizontal hold works fine but the vertical hold control is very touchy, apparently the contact between the metal wiper and carbon track (or perhaps between the wiper and centre pin) seems to be badly affected by dust or corrosion. I'll try cleaning the pot. which is not enclosed but if that doesn't help I'll have to replace it. After cleaning the Vertical hold potentiometer the issue is not resolved so for the sake of reliability and simplicity I'm replacing it with a new, enclosed 50k Ohm trimpot, mounted flat on the PCB which allows it to be easily adjusted using a TV alignment tool (tweaky-driver!) It's actually easier and more accessable than the original pot. which could only be turned by hand, reaching all the way under the monitor frame. That done, the monitor is working well, Brightness and Contrast controls are OK, the Volume pot. is a little scratchy but not too bad and is easy to reach and adjust. Player 1 and 2 controls are all working well. Start and game select buttons are a bit hesitant but will come good with use. Here the machine is reassembled and working, the Black and White monitor now miraculously displaying in colour thanks to the original multi colour tinted plastic screen which fits between the CRT face and the surround. Unlike the Taito versions which used coloured plastic gels adhered directly to the face of the CRT this one is rigid and shaped to match the curve of the tube. Double checking the power supply rails at the input to the game PCB after warming up all are still OK so the machine appears to be 100% functional. On that note I'm calling this repair finished and very happy with the result. And so, on to the next... Regards, John
    5 points
  46. Happy to help @Shock_And_Awe Like I said, it's just so much easier to set stuff up these days due to the amazing work that has been done by people to make install images for things like GroovyMAME and CRT_EMUdriver. Let me know how you go with the final stages of the setup with the J-PAC PS2/USB cable and give me a yell if you have any issues. It should pretty much work out of the box, as long as your J-PAC is set to default buttons, which it should be.
    5 points
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