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  1. It happened. Check out this smug arsehole! 😂
    16 points
  2. I realised I never updated this thread with new photos. It's been ages since the reno finished and I still haven't painted or put down new carpet tiles in the games garage 🙂 What I did do was organise all the machines and have my first games night in a while. Photos show the new garage and carport space, should have snapped a photo of the deck, that's where all the important drinking and discussion was taking place 🙂 Had just over 20 people there and the space held up well. Plenty of room on the deck and it's great to be able to flow down from the deck, into the carport with the projector setup and then into the garage with the games.
    15 points
  3. Hi guys, Made here in Adelaide these Jamma Adapters will allow you to play old school game boards in a Jamma arcade. Each adapter lists the games that will suit the games needed to play. Please check your Jamma pinout before purchasing. Cost $25 shipped anywhere in Australia. Capcom Classic Konami Midway Galaxian Midway Pacman Namco Galaxian Nichibutsu Terra Cresta Phoenix More to come. Thanks - Con
    13 points
  4. Happy Fathers Day to all the Dads out there. This is the 1st time in my memory that we haven't had any family gathering to celebrate but I did have a Zoom call this morning from both daughters and my grand-daughters (my little princesses) which was as great. I hope all you guys have a good day and celebrate as best as possible.
    13 points
  5. **** Nope. Can't do it. I'm going to finish it. This is going to be too nice when it's done. ***** Heartbreak time for me as I realistically decide that I am NEVER going to get around to finishing this. Beautiful Tommy ready for final push into collector quality territory. Cabinet is superb. Blinders work 100% Already has new armour, legs, lockdown bar, coin door. Pinsound installed. X-Pin main board. Flawless translite. Plus.. Kruzman cleared NOS playfield that I picked up from the man himself at expo a few years ago. Check the photos out just for PF porn even if you're not interested. His cleared PF's are USD1600-2000 on their own. $9000
    12 points
  6. Blowing up my machines
    12 points
  7. Just bought 2 sexy new themes for AA, Carbon a dark theme which is set to the default and Uniform a light skin. I think everybody will agree these are sexy as. Id like to change the background images to games rooms pics so post them up and I'll add them to the background. You can customise the skin using the icon on the left and switch to light mode with the icon on the right. Same thing goes for the Uniform Theme, switch to dark mode with icon on the right. Great for mobile phones and tablets. You can select any skin from the Themes drop down at the bottom of the site. Make sure to blame @Brad if you don't like them... 😄 Thanks again guys and girls, your donations have made this possible. Off for another Scotch.
    10 points
  8. I was looking at my assorted brown bumper caps and was wondering if the retro-bright process would work on them. As I had some remaining after replacing them with new in my Dracula, I thought I'd give it a go. If it does not work or fails spectacularly, no loss as they are likely to sit in a bag for years and then get thrown out.. These are clean, but yellow/brown. As the one on the left is somewhat darker, I will use it as the test subject. I put it in a sealed bag with some 40vol (12%) hydrogen peroxide cream and left it in the sun for the day - a warm sunny day. I kneaded it often to ensure no air bubbles remain settled on it which can lead to "marbling". I have a UV exposure unit I will try in the future to be a little more dialed in on exposure times. So at the end of the day, a rinse with water and the results: It is MUCH brighter - but there are some issues with this process. The heat stamped image (skull) was not impacted. The red starburst that is spray painted on has been lightened and is soft - it can be scraped off with a fingernail. On the underside, the "spot" from the GI bulb is still brown, but I also didn't spend a lot of time with it upside down. The plastic itself looks fine, no texture change to it. It still sounds the same when tapped as an untreated one so it looks like the plastic was not harmed. I have access to a small vinyl cutter so can cut a stencil and re-spray - that is something I will try later but in no hurry. Summary: It can work, however paint will get damaged and most likely need to be re-done. It may be fine for simple re-work like these caps - or disastrous with something detailed. I hope this is of interest to someone else out there.
    10 points
  9. simple tool to remove/refit hard to get to bulbs 1 x shooter rod rubber 1 x coil sleeve
    10 points
  10. I got mine last week. This is the most addictive game I’ve come across. It is so good. Aside from it being a beautiful machine to look at I think it shoots really well. Loving the rules so far. Got a lot to work out with scoring though. My playfield has washers on the slings but that’s it. No pooling at the moment with about 100 games on it. I did make up some bushes for the troublesome posts that seem to pool/chip. Had a little tweaking of the right ramp gate to do as the ball kept getting caught between the ramp and the drum stick. All sorted now and not one Hang up since. The rubbers are absolute garbage. Sling rubbers broke after 30 games. I’d be getting some others now ready to change them over if you have one coming. I did have some creasing in the decal where the backbox hinge pivots. I’ve been in touch with Paul and this is all sorted and I’m happy. So as far as my first NiB purchase has gone I really couldn’t be happier. The game is amazing and I can’t see this ever leaving my possession. I will add I blew a 150mil song jackpot during November rain yesterday and could have cried. I reckon I was a few seconds away from applause jackpot but too far away from the level increase when I drained.
    10 points
  11. Got notified that my GnR is at the local depot ready for collection. My first NIB after 85 pins.
    10 points
  12. I had a random unexpected delivery last night. I wasnt expecting the machine for months so id just totally forgotten about it. I was under the impression that my machine was yet to be built. Unboxed. All posts had all the additional washers etc. Only had a couple of quick games, still needs slight tweaks to leveling but that seems about it.
    9 points
  13. I've edited the topic to withdrawn. I can't possibly not finish it. Just got to pull my finger out and get on with it. Restore thread coming!
    9 points
  14. Passing on Fathom Mermaid order for the original RRP to anyone who may have missed out as I have lost interest waiting for this game. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me. Thanks 🙂
    8 points
  15. Na we are still here. I read in a previous post how some people don't visit forums, For me i much rather here as the pinball scene on Fakebook is vile. People cant list machines for the prices they want unless they're in the "In Crew" Anyone dare to list a machine for 20k gets a ton of laughing emoji's and bagged out or has their post removed. BUT if you're a mate of these morons than its fine. They'll even comment / bump your post with GLWS or "this is a great price wont last long!" Forums shit on Fakebook and its popularity gang of keyboard warriors. It's always been kept real here.
    8 points
  16. yearly bump. remember if you need help, ask. there is plenty of help out there.
    8 points
  17. hi all picked this little beauty up last night.i presume its aussie made and i remember them in the 70s along mornington peninsula ,along side huge slot car tracks and old rifle games. drop your 2 cents into the top hole flick it from side to side with a bit of skill,to avoid the holes that swallow your coin,eventually if your good ,you get your 2c back.simple but fun.
    8 points
  18. Well I thought I’d wait a few days before I said and thing about this game, so here it is. I couldn’t be happier and this pinball was well worth the wait. Just amazing.
    8 points
  19. I put the first coat of black on then I went over the whole edge of the cabinet rubbing and brushing glue all the way round where the t-molding fits in. Top to bottom, both sides. Two coats. This will stop it crumbling ever again. I waited for the first coat of black to do this because If I needed to sand anything I wouldn't cut through the primer. It would just wipe off the top coat, and it did 🤙 When it was dry and super hard I recut the slot for the t-molding. This whole project is about the restoration and trying to preserve the history. It was never about the bling of new decals and fancy powder coating. I wanted to do it justice and also not be too precious with new set of glow-in-the-dark prints. Those prints are $1000NZD. With shipping, import duty, GST, probably $1500. I want to be able to move it, don't care who plays it and not have to keep it covered so that it doesn't fade. So....I masked up the side art with some delicate tape and its BLACK again!!!! 🤣
    8 points
  20. Morning 'straya! Broke out the big boy Rupes sander and smashed down that glass filler. Added a couple of small bits and blocked it down super flat and rolled on a couple of coats of high fill primer with a small 4" roller. I really love the automotive primers because they go on easy, dry super quick and sand really, really nice! Also a couple of coats of black on the base. Oh, forgot to mention that all the ply I have been using is H3.2 treated so if it ever sits somewhere damp again it'll be all good. But lets hope that doesn't happen 🤙
    8 points
  21. 52100 After OOO posted the Retro Gamer article on Sunset Riders, it reminded me that I have all the Retro Gamer magazines, so why not pull 'em out as I play each game? Just to add an extra dimension to the hobby, but also for clues on how to play 🙂
    7 points
  22. Received my Gunners yesterday and all I can say it's amazing. I actually feel it's a pin that gets better and better as you understand it. Live and Let Die is the best music pin song I've ever experienced. After @Tastysirloin telling me it's amazing for almost a year, I agree with him 👍
    7 points
  23. Rebuilding my second pinball using an Arduino. Thought I'd share my successes and set backs. I'll post progress reports as I go otherwise this will need an index. In real life I've almost finished this but still ongoing. I started with just the base cabinet of Big Town, a 1978 Playtime machine. Early SS. The back box was missing so no electronics or score display, just a base cabinet. The play field is in excellent condition but I'm confident it is an overlay due to the bonus light covers looking like they are under a clear film. All the working parts under the play field are in good condition and will come up nicely after a clean and service. I'm still only new to the arduino and it's idiosyncrasies so this is also a story of my learning them and hopefully to help others understand them and not spend the time I did sorting out what should work and what doesn't. The first step was to strip out all the parts and wiring I wasn't going to need mainly to see what I'd need in the way of inputs and outputs on the arduino. He's the board stripped and my LEDs and wiring added. The only parts replaced on the board were the resistors for the flippers. As for the LEDs, I used 1 single strip of WS7811. It was a strip of 100 and wasn't needing them all so it was easier to leave some in circuit and not use rather than cut the wires and spend hours rejoining them. You can see 3 cable tied to the wire on the right hand edge. A right angle bracket and a cable tie holds them perpendicular to the play field. I did number them after this pic was taken for future reference - I highly recommend that step! Before I could think about building a back box I had to find out if I could even have four score displays. This game only has 6 digits per score so I bought some 7 segment displays as 2 x 3 digits. Of course I couldn't find any in Stralya so went to Aliexpress. Picked some up dirt cheap. The MAX7219 chips came from Jaycar. I built up 6 digits on a vero board along with the MAX7219 chip. I know, I didn't need a 100K pot but I wasn't sure of the resistance needed and I had these sitting around the workshop. Bonus is it allows the brightness to be adjusted. As you can see the MAX7219 is on the wrong side of the board so I have a flat surface on the display side for mounting. I connected it to a MEGA and with some software got it displaying. Good start. I built a second and tried to set up as daisy chained with Data Out going to Data In on the next MAX chip. Absolutely no luck getting it to work. After too much time spent on that I got the shits and modified the code so the displays weren't daisy chained. They used a common clock signal but had different outputs for their data and chip select. This was going to use an extra 6 digital pins so dilema number one - I wasn't going to have enough digital pins for all the rollovers and targets. Only solution I could think of was to use a UNO to control the scoring and a MEGA to control the machine with serial data transfer of the scores between them. I moved the 2 displays to the UNO and tried sending player one and player two scores to it. Short story is I eventually got it working using serial comms via Tx and RX and serial.write(). Encouraged, I built the 3rd and 4th displays plus a 5th one which only had two single digits - credits and balls. Hot tip - you can't upload code to arduinos when they are connected via TX and RX. I found that solution accidentally but did read about it later. Now this is where I made a mistake - I had this score sending, receiving and displaying working perfectly, UNO to UNO as my test. I decided to incorporate the sending scores code into the MEGA which was going to control the pinball machine. It had software on it from my first pinball project. Loaded it up, ran it and started getting garbage on the displays. Via monitor window I could see my Serial.print() statements in the MEGA code were sending unwanted data to the UNO! Researching I found I couldn't use Serial.print() when using serial comms via TX and RX. Bugger. Researching also showed the MEGA has multiple serial TX RX ports so simple solution is to use Serial1.write() for my data sending and use the next pair of tx RX pins. Wrong, supposed to work but buggered if it would work for me. Still getting bad data sent. More research and I discovered wire.h library. Gave it a try and nothing sent, more research and discovered the serial pins are different on the MEGA to the UNO example I was working off. Changed to the SPI and SCL pins on the MEGA and BOOM, had it working MEGA to UNO still with all the Serial.print() statements in place in the MEGA code and no errors. An added bonus is code can be uploaded while they're still connected unlike with using Serial.write(). Beer time. Now about the data sent. I wanted to keep it simple. None of this send player number, send ball number, send score player etc. I decided to incorporate all that data into one data packet. To send the player number,ball in play, credits and the score I used an array of 10 characters. Array cell 0 - Player Array cell 1 - Ball in play Array cell 2 - Credit 3 to 8 is the score - Array cell 3 - 100K Array cell 4 - 10K Array cell 5 - 1K Array cell 6 - 100 Array cell 7 - 10 Array cell 8 - 1 Array cell 9 - 48 So Player 2, ball 4, 1 credit and a score of 234500 is sent as 241234500. 48 is the end of data. At the receiving UNO I parse out the data and send to the displays. One data packet sent, keeping it simple. They're sent as char so a simple matter of subtracting 48 from the the received cell and boom, you've got your integer value. After the simple conversion from char to integer the rest is simple. 0 to 2 is simple. The score almost as simple - score = (cell[3]*100000)+(cell[4]+10000)+(cell[5]*1000)+(cell[6]*100)+(cell[7]*10)+cell[8] Cell[0] (Player) determines the chip select so which display the score is sent to. Hot tip time (my learning curve) - You can't upload to arduinos when they are connected via TX RX and you're using Serial.write(). You can't use Serial.print() when using Serial.write() via TX RX. The MAX7219 needs a 10uF and 0.01uF cap across the supply voltage close to the chip. This is written in the data sheet but it's on page 10 of 17 so very easy to miss, as I did. Next time I'll show the building of the back board and installation of the displays.
    7 points
  24. A Vampire bat returns to the cave with his face, mouth and teeth all covered in blood. All the other bats now excited from seeing his face, and after a futile nights feeding asked where He got it all from. "Follow me!!!" He says and out they flew over the hills, across the river and into the dreaded dark forest. "See that tree over there?" He says. "Yes! Yes!" came the excited replies........... "Well I fuck$n didnt".......
    7 points
  25. As most people know i was looking for a fathom and i purchased this shatter a few year ago out of desperation . I had buyers remorse for awhile thinking omg wtf am i going to do with this. have been rebuilding the cab
    7 points
  26. Part 2 - The back box. Now I had proof of concept on the scoring I started on building the back box. No idea of the size so I went with the dimensions of the last pinball machine I had here. It's a simple MDF box with right angle pine trim around the front. This provided a 5mm lip for the glass to sit up against and not fall out. It's on a small plinth. Ordered glass after measuring 15 times. Turns out it's a perfect fit. 15 times measuring seems to be the way to go. Maybe next time I'll get the glass first then build the box around it. The art work was tricky. All I had to go by was pictures on line. The final product is a patch work of several images found on line and stitched together and many hours on photoshop. There are several changes to the real thing but that's mainly to make my job easier and not go mental. No need to go into changes in detail. I would liked to have the artwork printed in translite but went with the cheaper option of officeworks ($12). The artwork isn't perfect and back lighting would have shown that. Here it is with the glass sitting over it. The diagonal lines on it are a reflection of the corrugated iron roof above. The glass backing board is 6mm MDF. More careful and multiple measurements of the score display locations and I was confident of cutting out the display holes. I painted black through and around the holes to hide the MDF from the front. A bit tricky mounting onto 6mm MDF so I built a mounting bracket out of scrap perspex. A flat base, 2 parallel pieces which the arduino sits between and then pieces on top of the parallel pieces but over hanging 1mm or 2mm to the inside. The arduino board simply slides in and stays there. The flat base was double sided taped to the MDF. All the parts mounted (temporarily for now), you can now see why the MAX7219 chips went on the wrong side of the circuit board. Oh, almost forgot, the red filter over the LEDs! Due to the design I needed something thin. What's thinner than cellophane - nothing. I went to the newsagents and picked up some cellophane for a budget breaking $1. I found 4 layers did the job so taped 4 layers to the backing board over the display openings. You can't tell it's cheap arse $1 cellophane and not transparent red perspex. There's a reflection of me in the pic looking very satisfied with the final product. To be continued . . . . . . . . . .
    7 points
  27. A good mate of mine has 2 fully paid tickets for the AFL Grand Final in a private box at Optus Stadium with all food and refreshments included. Unfortunately it’s just his luck, he didn't realise when he bought them that it is on the same day as his wedding, so he can't go. If you're interested and want to go instead of him, it is at 2pm at St Joseph's Catholic Church, Subiaco and her name is Julie. 👍
    7 points
  28. Some 12 years ago I posted my Retro-Futuristic MAME cabinet in this forum. It was a curvy very different looking thing with a half spherical top to it and a rotating monitor. The project went on and on slowly losing momentum, never quite finished. It had issues, some of which I shared here, some of which I didn’t. The thread grew popular and LONG (to many pages) early on I posted almost daily progress with lots of detail of my ways of woodworking, painting and fabricating parts. I gained a lot of experience and learning along the way, problematically this also meant I became increasingly critical of my own early work as my skills grew. Circumstance happened to move against me and the project foundered lying under a tarp in a corner of my workshop. One day I pondered, “what if I could just fix anything and everything that bothered me about this project?" Issues like warping of timbers over many years, cracking of joints, aesthetics and functionality I no longer cared for. I’ve been a fan of retro futurism for years, I also grew up in arcades and around arcade machines in the late 70’s and 80’s. I was never much of a gamer I just hung out with my friends in these places, I have that nostalgic view of the golden age of arcades because I was there. The future that people in the post war US imagined in the 50’s and 60’s interests me. Movies like Forbidden Planet, posters, artwork and in particularly advertising from the period. I wanted to apply that baby boomer vision onto an alternate universe of arcade game design. A world where arcade games were conceived in the late 50’s right alongside the family television. What would it look like? What would promotional flyers and advertising look like? For this to be fun again the project had to have a strong theme, a (fictional) background and point of conception. When it was all complete I imagined the machine, the company that manufactures it, advertising brochures and ancillary props like a comic book and collectibles to go with it. I called the re-born retro-futuristic alternative universe multi-game playing machine……… If you know nothing of the original design (and who could blame you, it was years ago) no problem. Here is the design. Much of this is already complete. Over the coming weeks, I'll fill in the details of the build to date. I know it's a weird looking, non-conventional arcade machine. Here's a taster of one part of it complete: I have much more to show you, but gotta start somewhere 😄 Cheers Ond
    7 points
  29. ***SOLD*** Selling my Rick & Morty Blood Suckers Edition by Spooky #486 with super sexy Butter Cabinet. Only 2 or 3 butter cabinets in Australia - has to be seen to appreciate what a difference it makes. $17900 1st owner, 300 ish plays. As new HUO. Only 750 R&M’s made ever. Approx 20-25 in Australia. Now out of production. This game has every possible extra: * Butter Cabinet (direct printed cabinet with gloss clear coat)- only 2 or 3 Butter R&M’s in Australia. * Full purple powder coat legs/rails/hinges from factory. * Purple powder coated coin door from factory * Quiet power fan mod * Speaker lights * Shaker * Knocker * Updated monitor (better viewing angle and colour) * Sonic's Magnetic Reed Switches in the loops * Updated flipper bushings installed * Coin mechs * Blue Crystal mod * Spooky original art blades (not installed) Game is flawless. No errors or marks. Completely dialed in and plays perfectly. Hopefully Bill or Mark can deliver. Pm for more pics.
    7 points
  30. First decal on tonight. Here is a before and after shot Still need to trim it off but really happy with the results.
    7 points
  31. To all my fellow AAers
    7 points
  32. That is what this caper is all about. AA is here to bring enthusiasts and players together. I made most of the mates I have from pinball over a beer at a strangers house when they put on a meet. 🍺
    7 points
  33. Morning! Bog it up son! This is a fibreglass filler. It's really good stuff but blinkin' difficult to get out of the container and mix with the hardener. If you use this stuff have two filling blades ready cos you need to 'slice' it as you pull it out. Be very thorough when you mix it up because it just moves around in one big blob. Having said that once you lay it down it actually spreads quite nice and has excellent filling capabilities. So, a blast with the sander and it's time to Phil McCrackin Note the little bits of fibreglass. WEAR A MASK WHEN SANDING. I used a sander with a vacuum and a mask. Doubly safe! Below is the right hand side of the cabinet which was actually pretty good. It got a quick skim as well. It sands down real nice and will get a couple of layers. Oh, pro tip of the day! It's easy to work on if the area is at eye level. So....
    7 points
  34. I never ended up doing the troubleshooting thread as @rayscosorted out a number of issues by replacing a couple of bridge rectifiers. He's a good man 👍 I put the handles on and am pretty happy with how the black trim looks. I still have to sort out a elevator/crane issue but other than that it's playing nicely
    7 points
  35. Sweet! With those repairs done, I stood it up for a photo shoot Time to seal this sucker up! Two epoxies there. The left ones are timber sealer. The right one is a no-sag thick paste for the filling. Both 1:1 and dry hard, especially that Woodlok! The timber sealer is designed to penetrate the timber and lock it up and bond everything back together. It penetrates well because it is thin. I poured it on the cabinet and used to brush to bring it down it to the areas that needed it. So you can see in that pic what I am dealing with and why I chose to do it this way with the extra base right out to the edges. It's a freaking mess! If I tried to fill and shape that with bog, it'll just break off with the slightest knock. You will also see why I added that extra wide blocking strip behind the kickpanel cos that'll stop the epoxies from disappearing! For this kick panel I am going to fibreglass fill it and there is a plastic strip that goes across this area on the front but I'll still make it mint. It's well soaked but'll be hard in 24 hrs 🤙
    7 points
  36. After finding this thread and seeing that no one had any "new" bushings for mca sticks. I 3d printed my own new bushing from TPU, 15% infill density and the lines pattern got it almost identical to the original rubber bushing.
    7 points
  37. I don’t like the Facebook groups the moderators on there aren’t worth a grain of salt compared to the guys here. Things get out of hand in a hurry and it’s just a breading ground of wankers. It seems you can’t have a different opinion on there without getting shouted down but rather here a different view is a discussion.
    6 points
  38. I’ve lost interest almost completely over the last year or so. Wether it be life has just beaten me down so constantly the last 5 years, having to sell everything I own only to see prices then double/triple, be priced out of the market to ever buy back in, or be it something else. Its ok seeing all the new machines coming out and GZ looks goodish. Nice world under glass, art colouring is too much, just like the last few Sterns. Yeti as usual. Mechs a plenty as usual and KME pushes the limit again. Unlike that lazy, recycling Zeplin Richie MF Doubt I’d be seeing one any time soon.
    6 points
  39. no tempting swish video trickery... but it's coming..........
    6 points
  40. Still prepping the cab It is coming up nice And then some more prep and sanding Sanded
    6 points
  41. Really agree with you Pete that the lockdowns haven't helped. I had to take retirement earlier than I'd like to have done in March last year as work had dried up and take it from me no matter what the "experts" tell you that employers are looking for trained, qualified, reliable mature people is an absolute crock. Anyhoo, the last 18 months haven't been exactly what I dreamed of retirement being like after 50 years of working BUT I have a great wife, great kids and lovely grand daughters who love their Poppy. It also helps that I have pinball as a hobby (IJ, TAF, Playboy all done) along with house reno's to keep the brain churning so I'm very grateful for that. On the bright side, middle of next month hopefully we'll be able to get out and about again, visit the daughters and princesses and start touring again in the 'van. Onwards and upwards - thanks for the vent.
    6 points
  42. Hi Gamers, Welcome to MGL49 - THE GOOD THE BAD AND THE DEAD, the 3rd video gaming tournament of the 2021 season. All gamers worldwide are welcome to play. You can join in at any time. Please watch the trailer above for the official tournament launch with important competition details. Competition: The gamer with the most points in this tournament will be the MGL49 champion. There will be 11 games played over 8 weeks, competing world wide on the most challenging and toughest video games of all time. 3 games will be released at the start, then 1 game each week, except 2 games after weeks 2, 4 and 6. Games are only open for 17 days each, so gamers must play their best in that time, and post their scores before the game is closed. At the end of each MGL, points will be accumulated for each gamer toward the World Championship of eSports Scoreboard. The highest score after the four MGLs are completed will be the undisputed World Champion of eSports for 2021. Prizes: Every gamer that plays all of the games has the chance to win the mystery prize. So if there are 11 games and you play and submit for all 11, then if you are drawn from the pool of qualifiers, then you will win all of the prizes. Whether you finish in the top half or the lower half in the tournament, you still have a chance to win. Prizes will be cash and/or arcade memorabilia. In MGL49, the mystery prize will be 6 x mystery prizes. If 70 or more different gamers play in this MGL, there will be 2 mystery prizes for 2 gamers, instead of 1 mystery prize for 1 gamer. If 100 or more different gamers play in this MGL, there will be 3 mystery prizes for 3 gamers. Points system: The incremental points system will be used for each game. 1st place will earn 100 points, 2nd place 99 points, 3rd place 98 points and so on. All gamers will earn competition points for their scores. If there is a tie on the overall scoreboard, then a head to head game win count will be used to determine the final placings. For example, if two players tie for 18th place in the world, then whoever has scored higher per game on a head to head basis will earn 18th place and the other gamer will earn 19th place. If there is a tie also on head to head game count, the gamer who has the highest accumulated game score points will be the winner. Games: Games are nominated by the competitors and sent by PM to the Gamemaster. Games must be selected from 1976 to 1995, where trackball, steering wheel and dual stick games can be nominated. The number of games that can be nominated by each competitor in MGL49 is in the trailer. The games to be played in the competition will be randomly drawn from the pool of nominations. Only unique games will be in the pool, as duplications of nominations will not be placed in the pool. The order of game play will be determined by the Gamemaster and each game will be released weekly for competition. If you would like to nominate games and have a say in what is played, please send them by private message (PM) to OOO by midnight Sydney time on Wednesday September 1st. The number of games you can nominate is in the trailer. The first 3 games will commence on Friday September 3rd. All games from MGL46, MGL47 and MGL48 are excluded from MGL49. Those games cannot be nominated. Settings: The game settings will be posted in each game thread and gamers must ensure they compete on these settings only. No continues are allowed when submitting a score and must be played from the beginning of the game. No pausing allowed. No auto fire allowed. No stitching of inp files from save states. No cheats allowed. Any WolfMAME version can be used. Only the version 0.106 ROM set will be posted for each game and the equivalent for other MAME versions can be used. Games can be played at the arcade. You must ensure the arcade operator has the game at the MGL game settings for the submission to be valid. Submissions: Gamers are to post a screenshot/photo showing their score with initials in the game thread. Games are only open for 17 days and any score submissions made after the game is closed by the Gamemaster will not be accepted. Scores at aussiearcade.com will be combined with scores from twingalaxies.com to form the World Championship scoreboard. Gamers: Professional and casual gamers can play all or just some of the games. Gamers do not need to nominate games to play, they can play any game during the tournament. Streaming games and posting/sharing tips are encouraged, as is friendly banter in the gaming community. Striving for PBs, learning and playing the best you can are all highly encouraged. As all members at AA are registered, there is no additional registration process for the championships. Good gaming and good luck to all competitors. OOO
    6 points
  43. Couldn’t sleep. So cleaned all the remaining parts on the bench and the previous “missing” wiring and associated switches. Ready to assemble to the ramps.
    6 points
  44. The LV is being launched on the 24th Sept (the prices below are USD)
    6 points
  45. I have a 4 Technics 1200 MK2 Turntables, and a 15,000+ piece collection... here's some photos for the beat heads:
    6 points
  46. Ha ha. Keeps kicking me in the nuts! I whacked a screwdriver down in the crack and poured in some slightly watered down glue until it wouldn't take any more. Then went up and down the tmolding slot (I'll need to recut it later anyway) doing the same thing and put those floating bits back in place. All the clamps on. Should be good! Oh, and a snap of the serial number on the top panel.
    6 points
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