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Hey all. Some of you followed my restoration thread on Arcade Projects but I just want to share a few pics of the finished product here. This thread got me into Candy Cabs in the first place and I’m grateful for the local support I got to finish the machine. Thanks to @djsheep Candy Cab Club for some bits and pieces, @nidulans for some hard to get parts, @xb74 CQB Arcade store for many parts, @Highway Entertainment for the tube and chassis, Bills Transport and probably a couple of people I’m forgetting. This restore took about 120 hours and $1500-$2000 including full powdercoating, transport, tube and chassis, lots of parts, cleaning products etc. It’s really interesting to see where Namco saved money on this cabinet but also where they spent money - hence its rock-solid metal frame, fibreglass panels and decent monitor. The cabinet frame and fibreglass is quite impressive compared to other Candy Cabs of the era and wasn’t improved upon IMO until they went to steel cabinets with the Noir/Vewlix/Lindbergh machines.

Hi everyone, I released a Kickstarter project today on my fun new book covering the greatest arcade video games of all time. The focus is on gaming today in the 21st century. The book includes all things arcade with games in detail, gamer interviews, tasty recipes, competitions and leagues, crossword puzzles, trivia, comics, world records, 250 color pages, 600+ images, 46,000+ words, and a lot of fun. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1683549692/the-greatest-arcade-video-games It's taken me 5 years to research and write these intriguing stories. As a 10+ years member at Aussie Arcade I had to take a year off running the MGL last season and cut back on my gaming time so I could try and finish the book. After much hard work and 1000s of hours, the book is 99% finished and is now ready for Kickstarter. I hope you will back this project and enjoy the book. If you can spread the word by forwarding or linking to my Kickstarter that would be much appreciated. The book will only be published if the Kickstarter funding goal is met. I hope you all have a great day. Cheers Paul

Hey legends, me again! 😅 Hope everyone is well leading up to Xmas. Deja Vu I realised around two months ago now, that it had been around a year since the last saga with my restoration take on the lowboy I picked up, it was sent away about 6 months ago now and is with its new owner getting prepped with a new monitor and chassis. Nearly a year to lick my wounds, and I noticed a little something on marketplace. Only two pictures to go off, seller wasn’t an enthusiast either so hard to get details. Just “not working “ and running 8-1 boards. I procrastinated here, for easily a month. After my last experience with the lowboy I didn’t particularly want to be dealing with blown flybacks shorted yokes and tubes burnt beyond recognition. They all had CRT’s from what I could see, and looked to be some kind of Hankin clone Had a window of about 5 hours one day and just YOLO’d it. Destination was only 1.5 hours away. Met up with the sellers father who was an ex vending machine operator. Got taken out bush to a huge warehouse where they were stored . And there they were, probably sitting here for around 15 or more years. Operated in bowling clubs in the area in the late 90’s early 2000’s until the influx of LCD cabinets took place. Picking these up was definitely a memorable experience. The issue here was they were stored up high so how to get them down 🥴 The process involved looking for keys and the cutoff seatbelt buckles/fasteners that clicked in for the first of the three communal forklifts in the shared storage warehouse. If the fork lift didn’t sense a seatbelt fastened, the bloody thing wouldn’t start 😂 The forklifts mentioned were in three sizes, small medium and large. And around a 20 minute mission for each to find the key and associated belt buckle. Small forklift was first which got precariously driven inside the storage space, smashing into old vending and claw machines on the way. When old mate got it below the machines, the fork wasn’t high enough 😅 Try the large forklift now, same 20 minute search entailed. Got in in position and old mate lifted the forks, and in the process took out a huge chunk in the roof and smashed a fluorescent large light into a million pieces 🥴 There was some swearing involved throughout the whole process here on the sellers behalf. Last option was the medium forklift, same tried and tested process and this one was just right. It was like something out of bloody Goldilocks and the three bears. So in position under the cabinets I was instructed to “ride” the forklift up and get to the top area, and shimmy each cabinet one at a time precariously onto the forks which could only get about 90cm under the cabinets. Each cabinet also had a length of wood underneath for strength I suppose which made them wobble dangerously and not sit flat on the damn forks. As I rode the forklift down with the cabinet and myself on the end of the forks, I got scared at this point for both myself and the cabinets. If one of these toppled off, I had nowhere to go and would had a 90 odd kg machine come crashing down with me underneath it. It was quite harrowing. In the end we got them down , a few more claw machines and vending machines were jolted and crashed into as the forklift got backed out. Next mission was getting them in the car. Can you fit three tabletops in a 2003 VY holden wagon? Well yes you can! With the passenger seat down, the first of the three at an awkward angle sideways with the exposed metal end of the CP right near my head in drivers seat, and the remaining two sideways aswell , with approximately 5mm to close the boot. The seller also stumbled over a forklift prong here while we were loading up and half dropped a cabinet on his foot 😅 This was one to remember I tell ya, the whole pickup including travel was about a 6 hour mission. Seller was a nice bloke though god love him, and he reduced the price of the cabinets in the end too. And here we are home safely, I’m lucky to be blessed with a very understanding wife who helped me unpack. I suppose we are at the end of the prologue to probably the biggest undertaking I’ve done in the hobby so far I.e do my take on restoring three cocktails simultaneously….. Please forgive the huge first post friends and more to update very soon! Tom

Have a really clean Gottlieb Surf Champ from 1976. One of the most desirable EMs of all time. Only selling as I have 5 more games coming this month. This game is being sold as a non running project. A heap of work has been done mechanically: all mechs have been rebuilt, including the 16 score reels. All steppers have been stripped and parts cleaned, with new sleeves etc. The backglass is original and a solid 10. It's mint. Playfield has had day one mylar lapplied and is amazing. Has been stripped, cleaned and waxed. Some of the new parts on the playfield are new playfield plastics, rollover guides, bumper skirts, bodies and caps. New posts, spinner decal, flipper bats, star rollovers, all posts, drop targets (with new springs). Mint original score and instructions cards, score tray is one of te best I have seen. New flipper coils, end of stroke switches, coil stops and upper and lower flipper bushings. New coin entrance plates and labels. New inner and outer springs on plunger. The plunger had been polished. All new globes throughout the game installed. Cabinet is stunning and original except for back left of the head. This can't be seen while looking at the game. Front legs are polished, with new leg levers. This was an original Aussie delivered game so no stepdown transformer. Has correct back-door and original schematics. I'm asking $3,000 for this, must be paid for in full within 48 hours. Payment via pickup here at Bulli or direct deposit. Will update with photos over the next 24 hours. Any questions etc please ask.

So believe it or not, I am still working on the games room but here's our kitchen at the moment, so that is taking priority. Secondly all my machines are together again, These 2 EM's were finally picked up from @Timbo who has babysat them for almost 2 years whilst I moved twice and got space to have them back. Lastly this is a shout out to AA and all the good people on here. I have met and got to know plenty of great people through AA who I would have never known otherwise. Just like Tim. You all know who you are and I'm forever grateful that AA is here with us all for this very reason

Hi Gamers, Welcome to the FINAL video gaming highlight of the year ... MGL58 - ARCADE GOOSEBUMPS. All gamers worldwide are welcome to play. You can join in at any time. Please watch the trailer above for the official tournament launch with important competition details. Competition: The gamer with the most points in this tournament will be the MGL58 champion. There will be 12 games played over 8 weeks, competing world wide on the most challenging and toughest video games of all time. 4 games will be released at the start. Then 2 games 2 weeks later, 1 game 1 week later, 2 games 2 weeks later, 1 game 1 week later, and 2 games the following week for the finale. Games are only open for 17 days each, so gamers must play their best in that time and post their scores before the game is closed. At the end of each MGL, points will be accumulated for each gamer toward the World Championship of eSports Scoreboard. The highest score after the four MGLs are completed will be the undisputed World Champion of eSports for 2023. Prizes: Every gamer that plays all of the games has the chance to win the mystery prize. So if there are 12 games and you play and submit for all 12, then if you are drawn from the pool of qualifiers, then you will win the prizes. Whether you finish in the top half or the lower half in the tournament, you still have a chance to win. Prizes will be cash and/or arcade memorabilia. In MGL58, the mystery prize will be 8 prizes. Points system: The incremental points system will be used for each game. 1st place will earn 100 points, 2nd place 99 points, 3rd place 98 points and so on. All gamers will earn competition points for their scores. If there is a tie on the overall scoreboard, then a head to head game win count will be used to determine the final placings. For example, if two players tie for 18th place in the world, then whoever has scored higher per game on a head to head basis will earn 18th place and the other gamer will earn 19th place. If there is a tie also on head to head game count, the gamer who has the highest accumulated game score points will be the winner. Games: Games are nominated by the competitors and sent by PM to the Gamemaster. Games must be selected from 1973 to 1993, where trackball, steering wheel and dual stick games can be nominated. The number of games that can be nominated by each competitor is 7. The games to be played in the competition will be randomly drawn from the pool of nominations. Only unique games will be in the pool, as duplications of nominations will not be placed in the pool. The order of game play will be determined by the Gamemaster and each game will be released weekly for competition. If you would like to nominate games and have a say in what is played, please send them by private message (PM) to OOO by midnight Sydney time on Wednesday November 22nd. The number of games you can nominate is 7. The first 4 games will commence on Friday November 24th. All games from MGL51 to MGL57 are excluded from MGL58. These games cannot be nominated: 1942 Armored Car Baluba-louk no Densetsu Bank Panic Battlezone Black Widow Buggy Boy Jr. Bump n Jump Cabal Cadillacs and Dinosaurs Chase HQ Commando Continental Circus Cool Riders Crazy Kong Cyber-Lip Defender Dockman Donkey Kong Junior Exed Exes Flicky Frogger Galaxian Ghouls'n Ghosts Gyruss Horizon Ikari Warriors Jr. Pac-man Kangaroo Lizard Wizard Marble Madness Mortal Kombat Mouser Mr. Do's Castle Mr. Do's Wild Ride Ms Pac-man Nibbler Ninja Clowns Out Run Pandora's Palace Pang Phoenix Pickin' Pig Newton Pigout Pinball Action Pirate Ship Higemaru Ponpoko Pooyan Q*bert Qix Raiden II Rainbow Islands Roc n Rope R-Type Scrambled Egg Smash TV Snow Bros. Street Fighter II CE Super Cobra Tank Force Teddy Boy Blues The King of Dragons The New Zealand Story The Simpsons The Speed Rumbler Time Pilot Time Tunnel Tutankham Uniwar S Vendetta Vigilante Vs. Balloon Fight Vs. Mighty Bomb Jack Vs. Super Mario Bros Xybots Wardner Warlords Water Ski Wonder Boy Settings: The game settings will be posted in each game thread and gamers must ensure they compete on these settings only. No continues are allowed when submitting a score and must be played from the beginning of the game. No pausing allowed. No auto fire allowed. No stitching of inp files from save states. No cheats allowed. Any WolfMAME version can be used. Only the version 0.106 ROM set will be posted for each game and the equivalent for other MAME versions can be used. Games can be played at the arcade. You must ensure the arcade operator has the game at the MGL game settings for the submission to be valid. Submissions: Gamers are to post a screenshot/photo showing their score with initials in the game thread. Games are only open for 17 days and any score submissions made after the game is closed by the Gamemaster will not be accepted. Scores at aussiearcade.com will be combined with scores from twingalaxies.com to form the World Championship scoreboard. Gamers: Professional and casual gamers can play all or just some of the games. Gamers do not need to nominate games to play, they can play any game during the tournament. Streaming games and posting/sharing tips are encouraged, as is friendly banter in the gaming community. Striving for PBs, learning and playing the best you can are all highly encouraged. As all members at AA are registered, there is no additional registration process for the championships. Good gaming and good luck to all competitors. OOO

Game is now Sold ($10950).

Game is now sold. Thanks for the interest.

Williams Soccer vintage pinball machine from 1964. One of the last 5 ball manual lift games released. Set on free play. This is one of the 'reverse wedgeheads' that Williams released into competition to Gottlieb's classic wedgehead design 4 years previous. This game has been recently serviced and plug in and play. I took this game in recently as part of a trade deal, so no room and out it goes. The backglass is original and amazing for a glass of almost 60 years. The game also features both backglass animation and 2 different team scoring. Cabinet had been resprayed before it got here, have refinished the front door and surround. Have just bought brand new legs for this game which also includes new chrome front leg bolts. The rear 4 bolts are correct and in great condition. New power lead and stepdown transformer. Have polished up the credit and flipper buttons to shine. Has original back door, though no lock. The lockdown bars end caps have been rechromed. The playfield is also amazing for a game of this vintage, no touchups. Just cleaned and left as outstanding original. All the playfield plastics have no chips or cracks, a few are very slightly warped from age. All the bumper bodies have brand new caps. Also features rare red metal flipper bats - very rare to find still on games of this age. Has a 5" bell installed in the back of the game, at the moment it has been disconnected (just one wire) as it's so loud! As with all games of this era there maybe a few loose globes or globe holders. AA price is $3,500 Payment within 48 hours via cash or direct deposit only. Happy to work your shipper of choice (Bill is mine). Photos to follow.

I too am surprised this hasn’t sold especially for that bargain price and NIB. I’m really enjoying my #44 mermaid and have no plans at all to move it on. glws Mark. All it takes is one buyer.

Still have 2 more games to clear. This working Gottlieb Card Whiz from 1976. One of best multi players. Game is complete, from the chimes, backdoor, correct leg length, lock for front door, proper leg bolts and correct lockdown bar. Will update tomorrow. Sold working with Pinball Resource repro playfield plastics, and other parts such as pop bumper cap, body etc. Playfield dirt looks like it's on the mylar. I planned to take it up as the playfield under looks mint. These old EMs that are working just don't come up for sale often. Asking $2200, any questions ask away. Last game will be a stunning Williams Soccer from 1964. Just waiting for new parts and some final cosmetic changes.

Chapter 5 Some Vinyl! My old favourite, the eBay vinyl!! Two to be used here from the same seller as last year. The lord of China vinyl I nickname this lad!!!! 😀 And the matte satin black for the front and rear of the cabinet The matte satin black says car wrap, but it’s used like the usual vinyl aswell So it was a shame here that I couldn’t use the different of the three cabinets, because that one had the removable sides like a hankin and I could of woodgrained those, and had the sides black. As per Hankin period correct exterior scheme. So there were a few problems if I wanted to use the above one. - It’s running a stepdown so you know a 10cm square footprint of vital space is being used -It’s quite smaller than the others, it’s like a mini cocktail 😀 With the sheer amount of crap I had planned to cram in this fully equipped beast, unfortunately it wasn’t an option So sticking with the Hankin panel theme I wanted it along the lines of this very nice one of user @Yobs on here. (Hope you don’t mind I use the picture mate) Just love that wood grain 🔥 So away I went preparing one of the other cabinets. This was all pre-wiring these pictures so please forgive the hiccup in the timeline. Light sand here all over to be certain surface was flat and free of any bumps And the more tricky parts first in the matte satin black, the face front of the cabinet where the CP wiring comes through , and the inner “bulge area 😅” I call it that the CP hides, but I like to do it anyway. All one seamless piece. Crude template was used. Love me a template. Funny when you see any 90 degree angles of the cabinet, in template form they look very odd, and I thought I’d messed up, but a bit of an illusion with the slanted angle the entire length of the cabinet is. I made sure the top and bottom 90degree corners were perfect fitting first. Carefully aligning the top angle I tacked and peeled the vinyl back only at that point and worked it into the corner , effectively holding the entire piece on. This ensured the entire way down the vinyl sat snug into the corner of the cabinet From there it’s simply peeling the rest of the vinyl downwards and smoothing out . Not even any need for a tool here just using my hand. A nice result, love the instant transformation you get with vinyl. The 2p side was a lot easier, as it doesn’t have the angle cutouts that the actual front door of the cabinet entails. Onto the rear of the cabinet applying vertically here, as the vinyl is delivered and stored rolled up, I find you need to work with whatever way the vinyl wants to “unfurl” or “unroll” when doing larger surfaces. If you go against it you’ll have dramas. Starting with a perfect straight edge is essential with the below, and it’s smooth sailing. When reaching the opposite side working the vinyl with a straight tool into the corner, and then trimming the excess. There’s no need for perfect measurements in between two sides when your working between two corners.As long as you start with that perfect first edge and let the excess on the opposite side creep up the other side and then trim. Although above it looks like the vinyl was unrolling horizontally, the entire surface is applied here and no backing is on there, hence the overhang curling as it has. Nicely trimmed here To the wood grain Please forgive the lack of pictures with the application. Also had to run some epoxy around the points in the routed valley to secure the T-moulding properly again. Was sagging in a lot of parts. Powdercoated legs back on here too, starting to see the progress made. Not true Hankin, but I was reasonably happy. Finale with the top. Lots of trimming here Had to stand this up against the wall for application in the end, with the vinyl and gravity helping it. Previous attempt trying to apply flat, ended in disaster, caused by the minute movement in the vinyl as you’re working across the huge hole in the middle. Ended up with huge creases. Against a wall and working downwards was the trick with this. Glass preparation and all back in place Love this auto Glym stuff, great glass polish. Designed to take water deposit marks from car windshields. Also great for polishing the face of CRT’s, or removing sprayed on worn and blotched anti-glare films on some monitors (hand polisher recommended for that) Hinges back on and monitor surround A before and after for comparison Just missing a hankin decal underneath and the black borders. For my take on it I’m happy though. Seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Next up…… the dreaded configuration of Groovymame and the chosen PC

Hi everyone, Just joined the forum, long time pinball fan from Adelaide. Caught the bug as a kid and saved like mad to buy my first pin (TZ) as a uni student in 2006. The hobby went on the back burner for a while as other life priorities took hold but rekindled the flame the past 3-4 years and the line up has grown a little. No surprises what my favourite game is!!! Reminds me of Magic Mountain which was a special place growing up for us South Australians. Looking forward to getting to know the community!

I'm finally cleaning up and need to make some space, so selling a few things. This will be for a collector. If you don't like the price, don't bother commenting. I have an interested party in the states but would prefer for it to stay in Australia. Playfield was restored a number of years ago, probably a thread on here somewhere about it. All working fine as it should. a number of locals have played it. Comes with another new plastic set Has new complete flipper mechs, shopped and new titan rubber set. I would prefer you come and play test it before you buy, but Bill knows where I live No Trades please $18000

Selling off a few games to make space 1974 Taito Speed Race in good condition Works perfectly as it should Feel free to come have a game or two or send Bill to pick it up, he knows where I live I can deliver in Brisbane $2000

Also, the people 'investing' in machines have, I think, stopped. I think they were at the high end of the market, speculating that as the price would increase, it didn't matter what it cost, and you could play it till you sold it at a profit.

I will need to sample all varieties before making an offer here!

OK ... So I am out.

Chapter 1 Rundown of the three cocktails: Couldnt help myself the night of pickup, after work that evening I had to have a peek. What I had here was two identical cocktails (the leftmost two on the above picture) And one that was a little bit different on the right, it almost looked like a flatpack cabinet that someone had put together and was slightly smaller than the other two. With the removable sides panels that cover the ends of the CP a lot like a hankin. But more on this one later. Where as the other two looked more like a mass produced clone that a company may have distributed. For the two identical ones I was happy to see them both with identical Toshiba A51KSV22X02 tubes, with no burn in at all. A great discovery Quite tidy wiring wise inside too At first I thought they might have been computer monitors looking at the VGA connector setup. I was a bit confused here, and thought these might be 31k only, but the 8-1’s VGA wasn’t connected and it was getting RGBs straight from JAMMA. Also the VGA being connected to some type of pass through PCB which I later discovered was a video amplifier. Then I saw the remote board and it’s various adjustments, and thought to myself 🤔 This can’t have been a PC monitors front panel setup adjustments on this remote…. A further inspection gave me my answer….. A wei-ya chassis 😅 I wondered why Wei-ya did the VGA cable…. Possibly their solution to package all the wiring off the neckboard neatly ? And to conform with the signal booster? I’ve never dealt with these before, but I suppose it wasn’t a Kortek at with an exploded flyback . Appeared to be a (free voltage?) C3120(A?) chassis, which explained why the cabinet didn’t have a stepdown. At this point I confirmed some AC and powered on, to get a ticking from the flyback area. HOT was shorted so it needed some attention. Couldn’t find any info on this model specifically just it’s variations, the component density was pretty hardcore on these, and I did my research to learn about their fallbacks. Came across some valuable write ups from the man himself @Jomac (first link below) specifically with how the chassis’s need to be kept cool and the lead free solder that was used on them. https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Rodotron_666 And also some more interesting info about them in general from user @Pac-Invader here https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/wei-ya-cga-monitor-chassis-429h.455975/ …....So I reflowed the entire chassis, neckboard and remote board for peace of mind with leaded solder and the iron set quite hot. Confirming joints were not accidentally bridged with DMM along the way. You need to be a bit careful reflowing these as I discovered, some of the pads are incredibly close together , to bridge anything at this point and not notice would have been a nightmare to track down. And if I sent it for service I didn’t want to cause any headaches for Joe. Painstakingly over a few hours I got it done, and in the same night completed a reflow on the identical wei-ya chassis in the other cocktail. By around 2am I was seeing double from the sheer concentration 🥴 It had already been a big few weeks tearing down and starting to prep 2/3 cocktails, as well as the sheer amount of bits and pieces I was purchasing to get them up to scratch….was starting to feel mentally exhausted at the undertaking . Onto the ode to hankin now….. the first I was laser focused on completing

This is a very nice project Williams Spot-Pool woodrail pinball machine from 1959. Bring sold as a non working project. All the cosmetics are done, repro backglass installed. All mechanisms on the playfield fully rebuilt, lots of new parts, especially the flipper hardware, coils etc. so would need to be powered up (also doesn't have a stepdown transformer) and final adjustments done. All new flipper mechs, coils, just need end of strokes wired in. All the hard (and expensive) part is done. Backglass is a brand new Shay Arcade licenced backglass. Still in packing box). Cabinet had been professionally done before I bought it. Really amazing job. Also have done the following: new chrome flipper surrounds, with new nails, flipper buttons and credit unit have been restored and repainted a gloss red. Front door is almost mirror like, has new repro Williams round metal logo. The timber rails, lockdown bar and timber surround around the backglass have all be refinished. Has original cigarette holder on the left, has been cleaned up. Ball plunger has been polished up with new inner and outer springs Legs are correct length and in excellent condition with new leg levers and leg bolts. Playfield has been completely stripped, cleaned and waxed. There were a few inserts that needed to be refixed, which has been done. All original coloured playfield posts present. All the inner timber rails have been redone to match the side rails. Playfield features: new flipper bats and screws, all hardware on playfield is new, period correct stainless screws and washes. Original score card tray with repro score and instruction cards. New pop bumper skirts, springs, rod and rings, bodies and caps. Still have the original bumper caps that as still great that will come with the game. Pinball Rescue repro plastics (oh how they are missed), just installed. Has 5x new 1" bullseye targets installed. Brand new bell set from PBR (for 100,000 and million points). Asking $3,800

thankyou everyone. was very quiet as my wife has a terrible cold. so priority is penny's health. today also means only 12 months left until retirement.

For $50 , I’ll take them.

Chapter 9 The finish line….. finally Safe to say this things fully equipped and the amount of wiring is just a bit silly!! 😅😅 -Dual ultimarc spinners -Ultimarc ultimate I/O (not sure if this was necessary I thought it was required for two spinner set up, but in the end one spinner had to be connected to it, and the other on a USB interface, so possibly could of had both via USB). I wasn’t entirely sure how to set up in the first place so I got it just in case. -J-PAC -9010 Optiplex with Crucial SSD and Corsair DDR3 -Can connect JAMMA PCB if required and no need for any connector swapping player control wise -Four 120mm Noctua fans with fan controller -Meanwell RT-25A -Dual mono from JAMMA edge with potentiometer or Stereo with 12v amp for PC and shielded speakers -Service and test on “custom 😂😂” bracket -Wei-ya chassis full reflow and serviced Everything had built up to this, and getting organised to put the top back on Once was happy with everything, on it went this was a nice moment And P2 side A final polish from my helper And some pure darkness colour calibration results Bitter sweet to be at completion Quick video of scrolling through the attract frontend https://imgur.com/a/uOPqjal Probably the biggest spruce up I’ve ever taken on. The amount of hours and money, was a bit crazy. This thing is definitely one of a kind Although I’m relieved to say the least, all the kind and considerate comments and encouragement from this great community and all you legends here made the whole thing worthwhile. Off to play some Arkanoid now 😅😅 More updates to come on the next cocktails within the next week or so and thanks everyone for following along -Tom

i think you will find "shitty 70s masonite" is the correct technical term. marine ply is the proper answer. you're gonna choke on the cost of a full sheet but normal ply at least is good advice. i would have thought it would be less than 12mm (6-9?) but either way is the proper way to go.

wise words. the market is shot to bits now. im seeing (9-12k covid$) games sitting unsold at 5-6k. You're competing with 'i wont buy anything at the moment' not 'negotiable pricepoint' so lowering it further would be foolish panic. It isnt "drop the price" time its "wait patiently for the right buyer". time. itll come..

I confirmed with Joey that he is still supporting Australian and New Zealand customers. 🙂

The point of putting more up is? If a member is genuinely keen they can request more and I'll happily send them a whole bunch. But for the would-be tyre kickers one pic will suffice.

Fm Towns Marty II + Tatsujin Oh (Truxton II) $1400 Works perfectly Pick up in Vic.

LOCATED IN W.A I'm clearing out a whole bunch of games ( currently in storage) of mine and my mates. I'm listing as a big lot just to make it easier to post. Most are U.S imports with a couple of LAI. cabs marked in there. I'm just trying to see who is interested and if people are keen they can message me and I'll pull the games out of storage, get better images and do a thorough test again to ensure everything is good. It just seems the best way to clear out more than one game at a time as I have limited space at home to test the games. I'll post a few photos and if people are interested then just msg me and we can go from there Konami fisherman's bait - $2000 Sega sky target - $3500 Gauntlet dark legacy - $3800 Final furlong - $3500 Atari Vindicators - $1500 PENDING Atari Stun Runner - $1500 Virtual fighter - $2500 Track and field - $2800 Street fight 2 CE - $5000 Mortal Kombat - $5000 Taito chase HQ - $3000 PENDING TMNT in big blue LAI - $2300 SOLD NBA jam in big green LAI - $1300 I can't wrap and pallet but I'm happy to drop off to a depot to save shipping cost. Anyway msg me if anyone is keen and we can go from there.

Close Encounters Of The Third Kind EM - Update Starting to reassemble the drop target bank with the new parts for CETK. I was fortunate enough to carry out the work at the GoatShed, where Graham has completed this task many many times. So under the mentorship of Graham & Kim, I started to re assemble the unit back together, however I appreciate their expertise as I learn this task. The A-517 Springs are attached the drop bank target chassis Then followed by A-18895 spring attached to the Drop target. The Gottlieb parts catalogue called for a A-12178 Spring and this is replaced now by part number A-18895 We will use an old drop target bank for reference, and also I have taken plenty of pictures prior to disassembly The A-517 & A-18895 look really similar straight out of any unmarked packet. Or if you have disassembled your drop target bank and are wishing to reuse the same springs then: The A-517 is called out in the Gottlieb Parts catalogue is the lower spring (Drop target bank chassis - Trigger). The A-517 is slightly stronger spring, you can tell by the feel, and on close inspection it is a slightly heavier gauge in manufacture. The shaft is placed into position early, just to hold all of the triggers in place whilst all of the other parts are fitted back into place. With now all of the parts assembled back into place, all screws are tightened, and a manual test of the drop target bank is completed with some slight adjustments to ensure that it operates very easy. With this now completed, the unit will be placed back onto the playfield soon once I can complete a few more tasks. All of the existing consumable parts have been kept for spares, and this refurbishment work to the drop target bank may seem excessive, however the drop target bank (and other parts) were removed from the PF to allow transport and refurbishment to the PF itself, I wished all the removed units and parts to be in the best condition before remounting back onto the PF. The GoatShed youtube channel has a library of helpful videos, and watching a few videos on drop target bank repairs was really helpful Drop Target Bank Video here Next: Roto Target refurbishment

Selling my popeye in beautiful condition Wide body machine colour pin2DMD 6 ball multiball LEDs throughout mirror blades full Set of titan silicone fitted Immaculate PF Spinach can light up Mod powder coated white armour and legs strong rebuilt flippers very clean boards Very tidy inside and out plays fast any questions please feel free to ask based in Caulfield Victoria Priced to sell

here is an original photo from sydney 1941. bought this earlier in the year

Chapter 3 bits and pieces and some mains AC No mucking around with the old switching PSU here, Meanwell RT-125A all the way. Use these all the time. Magic little switching PSU’s Prepped it partially for the mains, a short set to branch off to the IEC, which would also be on a Y cable split and then run along the back wall of the cabinet to the PC, and a set dedicated to the chassis’s power. Chassis power branching off on an appropriate 3 way Prepping some metal parts below . Lots of rust throughout on every nut bolt hinge etc Got a bit stuck in the build here, very annoying getting the clamps that hold the glass onto the top of the machine back to bare metal because of how they’re shaped. Used combination of hand sanding and a dremel. Very rusted these were. Rust proofed and done gloss /flat black The actual stand off legs were also VERY annoying as you can see how rusted above, wire brush on a battery drill and thin sand paper to get in all around the inner circumference of these where the rubber meets the rounded metal “body”. Rust was deep down in these. Then masked around the rubber bottoms and rust proofed/ sprayed with silver kill rust epoxy. Not meant to be touched really after using this stuff, so not recommended for anything in a high touch area. It’s a good silver though and just provides some protection rather than bare polished metal finish. Good enough, and after seeing the offerings at Bunnings in the stand off leg department , I had to re-use the above. Next a solution for test/service and the volume potentiometer, again brackets I had lying around, not ideal but good enough. With the below from Bunnings to drill the 29mm holes to suit two MCA buttons. Would also serve to drill the holes for the spinners in each CP Sacrificial old school pine table here to screw the brackets down to hold things in place as I drilled. Unfortunately I don’t own a vice 🥴 After some horrible noise I got there in the end, did all three in one go for each cabinet to save time later. Came out ok and will serve the purpose Sandblasting and powdercoating prep and drilling Spinner holes- Spinner holes drilled out here, did it on the grass here which was awkward. Made a bit of a mistake here, I’d drilled the holes to suit left handed……And I’m right handed 😅. All it meant was positioning a few cm’s different how you sit at the CP, which wasn’t a huge issue. Couldn’t exactly have these central on the CP as the joysticks were there. 🤷 All good 😅🤦‍♂️ Had the next little problem here doing the three cabinets simultaneously. So as not to inconvenience the legend that does sandblasting for me, I had to get all three cabinets bits and pieces for sandblasting, all together at the same time. Which involved a combination of pulling monitors out, and setting the cabinets on moving trolleys. A bit harrowing on moving trolleys with the monitors still in there due to the piece of wood underneath the cabinets that didn’t let them sit evenly. Due to room had to put 2/3 cabinets on trolleys with monitors still in there , in order to take the legs off each. Got it all together in the end. Dawning on me the enormity of the whole process here Everything rusted AF which is all part and parcel of this stuff I suppose isn’t it 😅 Off to the bloody local legend that does my sandblasting at his home workshop, and he then hand delivered to powdercoaters for me. Few days later all done, started to see some progress now I was pleased. And all six legs Measurements taken here to be sent to Carson at Noodleshirt for the overlay’s Simple overlays for these, no button graphics etc etc. Wanted some LAI flair. Carson did good here and got em out in 48hours, bloody legend. Quite hard to apply these evenly and take into account each corner and top/bottom gap, while keeping it straight across the CP. Was happy with how these looked, definitely can see the progress of all the trouble I went to. This vinyl that Carson uses (orajet/orafol I think) is bloody resilient though, at one point I had to rip it off entirely and start again, and it was able to be re-used! And the joystick buttons combination I chose, using what I had on hand. Not ideal colour combination but all I had. Gettin there now Happy with that, and proceeding to the dual jamma I/O wiring

This is it-

Hi all. As per the Events Calendar, the Australian Pinball Open will be held in the Visions Room, Mantra Resort, Twin Towns, Coolangatta. Details for the event can be found auspinballopen.com Tickets can be pre-purchased for the entire event, or on the day at the door. Hope to see you there! Game listing for the Main and Classics: Main Event: Jetspin F14 Harlem Globetrotters on Tour Supersonic Walking Dead AC/DC The Shadow Venom Metallica Bond Pro Deadpool LE Mandalorian Prem Iron Maiden Pro Classics: Stars Mata Hari Hurricane Paragon Abracadabra Magic Castle Time Machine Transporter Jacks Open Centigrade 37 There may be changes depending on machines behaving of course!

Close Encounters Of The Third Kind EM - Update OK, now finishing up the Roto Target unit for CETK. After all of the polishing, the new Wiper Fingers, Springs and Braid was all installed. You would normally need to lightly file the area on the Wiper finger ready to accept solder, and using a slightly larger soldering than normal (say 80 watt) the braid was attached with ease. The Gottlieb factory cotton covered braid makes it a real nice job !!!! The Wiper finger holes were all cleaned, using a cotton bud and Isopropyl. The new Wiper Finger / Springs, now operate as they should without any delay nor any binding friction. So now after all of the cleaning and polishing its time to reassemble the Stepper unit. Slight filing of the Stop Pawl & Drive Pawl to remove any slight burrs (that may have occurred over the past 40 years) Using the Dremel, on the bore for the gear & shaft. The use of a Scotch - Bright bit to lightly clean the bore, then followed with a Cotton Pad bit to polish the bore, and lastly a few drops of light machine oil for the shaft. The Stop Pawl Lift is attached to the frame using the reference marks. The new springs are installed onto the drive lever (always handy to use existing pictures of pre dismantle) and well that was a challenge to that all was correct The new coil sleeve was fitted, followed by all of the remaining parts. NOTE: Critical adjustments/settings (using supplied manual document as a reference) Adjust the Stop Pawl Lift A-4185 with the Drive Lever at the rest position. The space between the Stop Pawl and A-4185 is 3/16" (4.7mm). Note relation of teeth on ratchet to A-4185 for a visual check. Adjust the Drive Pawl Lift A-4184 with Drive lever in "energised" position. Drive pawl should be clear spinning ratchet by 1/32" (0.8mm). Both pawls should be clear of ratchet at this position. The stroke of the plunger in coil is 7/8" (22mm) All work is now complete, with the stepper operating correctly and freely. Whilst this seems like an easy task to complete, I still made the odd error in reassembly sadly by not using my photo's, before correcting it. Minor adjustments in stroke length were made, and the unit is ready to go back into the machine, I am sure that there may be the odd very slight adjustment required. I really appreciate the mentorship of the GoatShed from Graham and Kim, thank you guys !! The GoatShed youtube channel has a library of helpful videos, and watching a few videos on Roto target repairs / servicing was really helpful Roto Target Serving Video here Next: Motor Board refurbishment including installation of Australian Transformer

Oh dear (sighing and counting to 10) 🙂 guys apologies, and again if anyone is interested in a really bloody nice fathom flick me a message and we'll go from there. The ad (I thought) was quite descriptive and accurate, but if my for sale post isn't done old mates way it must be the wrong way im gathering. Just trying to sell a nice pinball.

Tyre Kicker? Not me. However if I was to treat it like real estate then I'd pass right by it. We are not talking about a NIB. It would gain more interest with more pic's. IMO. Like showing a house with no price. Less info equals less interest. Just saying. I mean I know what a Fathom looks like. Just not this one. Either way here is your free bump for today.

Chapter 8 The home stretch and last battle with Groovymame DVI to VGA rocked up Sound amp in as well , I don’t love screw down terminals, wire I had was pretty thin gauge even making a wire loop and trying to clamp the wiring down was pretty flimsy. Just made up some dodgy little terminals for a more of a solid connection 😅 They worked though! 🤷 Very tight quarters now with the Optiplex really needed this to fit so I could get up and running, otherwise would fall back on suggestions from @narf_ @needlebat. Finally mounting the damn thing, what can I say this was a pain in the bum. Optiplex kept moving forward as I had to have it very hard against the back of the cabinet and the DVI cable being so hefty kept pushing forward. Also checking and rechecking clearance of the coin mech as I was going. And securing the mounts from the top side with a long screwdriver. They way the Optiplex was right back in there with the speaker so close it was very irritating I needed clearance for the mech, but also a decent clearance away from the anode Used some blue tape to signify round abouts where the mech was 😅 So with the door on it was very awkward to say the least 🥴🥴 And the final mounting position and the bloody thing was in With everything mounted now could get her inside One of the last odd jobs was put new micro switches in and do a fresh wiring harness for both sides on 12ways Cherry microswitch for the buttons and “ace make “ joystick switches. I think the joystick ones ain’t great, but better than what was on there. If anyone has suggestions on switches for MCA sticks that are a bit better quality please let me know! The cherry ones on the buttons feel very nice though! Love some crimping when you have a proper Japanese tool, I used to despise crimping but it’s nearly therapeutic now Player one side done nice n fresh And p2 side Tried to update Groovymame now, as some roms wouldn’t show, I’d downloaded them from here there and everywhere haphazardly, and didn’t quite get the grasp on certain roms working with certain versions. Thought I’d try get the latest groovymame version and just replace the entire folder….. That was a mistake, the big thing is the “mame64.exe “ that’s included in the image. I’d replaced the mame64.Exe with mame.Exe from the latest Groovymame version as that’s what it came with, and just thought I could rename the executable to mame64.exe Well it corrupted the entire thing didn’t it 😂😂. This was a 4am bedtime this night, as I painstakingly tried to get the original SSD back in the Optiplex with the minuscule amount of room available.It was firmly mounted in the cabinet and there was no way in hell I was taking it out anytime soon. This really sucked this part and I was quite exasperated. I had to boot back into UEFI with the computers original SSD to get to the original win10 install so I could wipe the Groovymame SSD to start all over again. As well as connect an LCD up to do most of the process. Once up and running again, I decided not to try and update mame anymore. The current chunksin v3 files had a recent enough version, there was no point in procrastinating anymore and being fussy about which version of mame it was. Proceeded to get the roms I needed all from one place only and the required bios. Cross referencing what bios I needed from another PC so as to not overload the mame roms folder with things I didn’t need. Successfully going back and forward from the attract frontend to the windows 7 interface here, changing resolution with keyboard shortcuts in the display settings, so you can see dialog boxes etc. This software side of it is very very clunky . No fault of the developer, it’s just how it is and requires a process. Getting back to 640x480 above Shelling the attract.exe to get back into the arcade frontend With roms placed in, and associated bios, I launched the frontend and rebuilt the collection database. The bloody thing worked, and every title was working along with its associated preview in the title attract frontend selection. From here on out I let sleeping dogs lie, Arkanoid and the spinners were working, and the small handful of titles I wanted worked. Onto the finale…..

Personally I think the moment you brush touch, add new plastics, paint the legs it’s no longer original anyway so why not upgrade the machine to its best instead of replicating the cost saving measures used at the time on a commercial machine. I’m guessing you’ll repaint the cab so I’d go the ply as well and make it stronger at the same time. Also if you had a cab with the “weet-bix” back in it on terrible condition you wouldn’t put the same crap in the back would you?

I’m getting a vibe here that original sometimes isn’t best.

Definitely not going lower than this @Railways . It’s crazy but not completely unexpected. I think leading up to Xmas is also a bad time. Got a lot of headwinds lol. No doubts it’ll sell at this price - got a few sniffing around now.

have decided to keep and finish the last of the restore

Times are changing indeed. $17,800 for a Godzilla LE on gumtree. I think the days of 20k+ prices are done. 👏

Andy and I both bought ours at the same time. Now we just spend weekends drinking in each other's garages 🤣

Chapter 7 The interim Quick one today , vinyl the two identical cabinets doors prepped quick sand with 240 to get flat and remove sticker residue. and replace locks with some I had lying around. All three cabinets came with no keys which is a pain, because I had to modify and space out locks and (tangs?). And a quick look at the mechs Both wei-ya and hopefully can be set to 20c This face plate looks very cost effective 😅😂, but as long as it works this will be fine for now. Apparently Ive set the dips accordingly but not sure what the two spare dip switches do on this one 🥴 If anyone can weigh in I’d appreciate that. And the other, this type has the spring loaded part where you put your choice of coin in Not sure if this one will work, as I had to remove a restrictor for 20c to pass through, and unbend the metal (clamp?) a bit so 20c would pass through and not get stuck in the top most section of the mech there. Possibly not designed for lower denominations….. Anyway 😅 vinyl the doors and put the mechs and locks in This one went smoothly Vinyl behaved itself Taking a tiny bit of corner wood here too while trimming to make sure it doesn’t catch on the other re-vinyl surfaces that it meets up against. Onto the second, felt wrong the whole way, can just tell when the vinyl has had a minuscule movement. More my error than anything, but started creasing from the get go and I foolishly continued. Once going over the coin mech hole it was all over. Had to restart Fail 🥴🥴 If it doesn’t go on a certain way over holes like this your going to have a drama every time Running low on black vinyl now, so last chance. Cut the vinyl the opposite way this time so it rolled downward, and reverted to my tried and true “vertical application technique “. This technique only comes out for the troublesome applications!!! 😅 Applying the vinyl over the coin mech top side first Yes a compelling action shot, the wife begrudgingly took 😅 Was relieved I got it on there, as I’m pretty much out of black vinyl Came up pretty good they did! The wait continues for the DVI to VGA cable, for the final mounting position of the PC…. Hope everyone’s well 🙏

Chapter 2 My take on Hankin exterior styling and some overall preparation Goal was to have a reasonably period correct machine externally, to have the two control panels populated with 1 joystick and three buttons each……. And have a spinner on each CP 😅 What can I say I wanted to play Arkanoid with a spinner 🤷 First was the plan to keep the chassis cool, and run two shielded speakers Did something I’ve never done, and bought a decent drill, to make the holes to suit the two 4” shielded speakers As I was budgeting I had to get the cheaper hole saw’s from Bunnings. A 102mm from the set to suit the speakers I didn’t want even shielded speakers anywhere near the monitor to prevent any purity issues which took the original grill cutouts/vents where the fans would go out of the question , as the cabinet was two player sided I decided to drill each speaker in each bottom corner of the second player side. Onto actually finding some decent shielded speakers I got a tip from my old mate @mR_CaESaR that Wagner online had some nice little ones https://www.wagneronline.com.au/4-square-shielded-speaker-105mm-8/daichi-classic-series/daichi-universal/speaker-drivers/audio-speakers-pa/sp4-30-7003/3086/pd/ Dai-ichi!!!!! 😀 They were no Pioneer TS-G1020F but the magnets are incredibly strong on those, unfortunately they weren’t an option. As for fans, I like the Noctua stuff. A bit more costly, and a little bit silly putting them in something like this….But I went ahead anyway, as well as a fan controller for them. Once holes drilled etc , everything was mounted, bit tricky with the fans, as I had to make sure they were somewhat centre on the pre routed vents. Air flow a bit reduced because of the way the vents were, but I wasn’t about to be trying to find a solution to that and thought at least some fans is better than no fans. Now for the spinners! I was bloody intent on integrating this into the build 😅 no matter the cost! ……and it sure was a cost 🥴 Ultimarc stuff Very nice quality these Spintrak rotary controls, with small and large weights to cover anything I needed. But how to interface these and actually get them working? My two options were either Groovymame or a mistercade here. I opted for the cheaper option of a Groovymame setup for the time being. I’m not particularly fond of a PC setup in a cabinet with every title known to man in it and “spoiled for choice” options it entails, but planned on running only a few select titles at a time, so as not to put a damper on the experience and joys of original PCB collecting. At the end of the day, the cabinet would be dual wired to instantly be switched to a JAMMA PCB setup when required. More ultimarc things 😅 J-PAC above to enable the PC Ultimate I/O to handle one spinner and the 1 & 2p and rest of the inputs. The 2p spinner was to be on a USB interface and connected directly to the PC Pretty much had my solution here to have two spinners working, but definitely a costly exercise. As I was dreading doing all the wiring I switched priorities and constructed a proper earthing plate set for the new IEC connector, as the original in the cabinet had no plate at all, which wasn’t particularly great. Found a few brackets lying around that fit nicely around the IEC both at 90 degree angles. The bottom was pretty simple as it was just a fixture to mount the connector. The actual original hole to accommodate the connector through the wood base was way oversized so this bracket set on the bottom had to be used. The bracket set inside the cabinet however needed to be prepped for the earthing bolt itself and one half slightly cut to sit hard up against the inner wall of the cabinet and also fit snugly around the earth enclosure of the IEC, and for added piece of mind have continuity across the two halves of the plates. Drilling a small hole where both came together and bridged with a small screw. The two plates had a very minuscule gap between them, so the screw to bridge them was required. Probably should have just got two reasonably thick pieces of metal from Bunnings and dremeled a hole to suit the IEC…..but you know me 😅😅 Now was to decide between doing wiring or removing rust from metal things. Both of which I wasn’t too enthusiastic about. Decided to prep some of the metal bits and pieces I could re-use over the next few day’s following.

Hi, that's a pretty obscure machine and as far as I know there is no documentation specifically for it. Many other machines have far better documentation and troubleshooting tips. But there are probably some good general guides to arcade machine troubleshooting - suggestions anyone? Arcade machines mostly can be thought of as a box with three main components; power supply, game PCB(s) and monitor. - and the wiring which varies from machine to machine but it is often simpler to pick up a signal ( say a power supply) at the point where it arrives at the other end, only having to trace the actual wires if something goes missing inbetween. Sometimes if everything seems wrong it is easier if the components can be tested or repaired separately. I do have one of those machines in original condition so may be able to help with a few details: If the original monitor chassis is still present it should be mounted towards the front under the CRT and look like this: At the closer end you would see the focus adjustment on the flyback transformer and just next to that the screen grid (G2, cutoff) adjustment potentiometer. That should be able to be adjusted so that those retrace lines visible on screen just disappear. I doubt it would make any change to the flickering. Note: there is a high Voltage on the connections to that potentiometer, which are visible in the photo. Best to use an insulated tool for these adjustments. If the original Logi Tec linear power supply is still fitted it would be mounted towards the back under the CRT as seen here. The power supply PCB is very similar but not identical to one used in the earlier versions of the Taito Space Invader cocktal machines. A better photo here More about the power supply repairs in my machine here: The 2A fuse is on the 14V AC secondary supply from the transformer, purple wires as seen below which I believe power the +12V regulator on the power supply module. The bridge rectifier for the 14V AC is mounted on the regulator PCB. Meanwhile the 8V AC windings are rectified just behind that fuse block and filtered by that large capacitor seen in the photo which carries the unregulated DC supply for the +5V regulator. It should have about 12V DC across those terminals and the AC (ripple) Voltage should be quite low, less than 1 Volt if the capacitor is working OK - I haven't replaced mine as it is still working fine. That unregulated Voltage then goes to the regulator PCB which provides the +5V supply. There is also a -5V supply from the regulator PCB. The best place to check the regulated supply Voltages is at the edge connector where they power the game PCB but the pinout on your machine will be different than the original as it has been modified to suit another game PCB, so best to search for or trace the correct pinout for your game. It may be similar to the original Scramble pinout but may differ as I believe that PCB could run several different games so may not match the exact scramble pinout. It should be possible to locate the +5V, +12V and ground connections on the edge connector, and also the -5V if used by that PCB. You should hopefully also be able to locate the coin input to the PCB, or even at the switch on the coin mech and measure if it is connecting to ground when the switch is operated. The other little board in your photos, near the front of the machine is a credit board which sits between the coin mech and game PCB, determines the number of coins per credit and has the service button, drives the coin counter etc. Is the attract mode running on your machine, from the video it apears to have frozen at one point? If it is frozen, start by double checking those power supplies and go from there. Hope that helps, regards John

Now you should sell it me so you can start your next project. Im here to help.......