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bally globetrotter issue

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  • bally globetrotter issue

    first of all big thanks to all the people that had input on my first thread about the globetrotter. i've come a fair way with it.

    ok i had it working; and only because i didn't have replacement parts i bypassed the switch next to the flipper coils ( on my globetrotters). i now understand WHY these switches are there.

    for anyone who remotely knows what i'm talking about there's a leaf switch that's always closed circuit next to the flipper coils ( one for each flipper coil) and when the button is pressed the power goes to the coil and then the switch goes open circuit because it is pushed open circuit by the coil assembly. that IS supposed to happen.

    the reason for this is that the flipper coils have 2 coils inside them, one to activate, and then one to hold it there. of course bypassing this switch meant that the power was being applied to the main one all the time when the button was pressed. that's bad...

    long story short, the flipper coils get VERY hot and smoke and melt etc.
    i did have these one's smoking...

    shortly after they stopped working ( my housemate was playing the machine) and it was smoking so he turned it off.

    it blew the f4 fuse ( which has a 15A 250 volt fuse in it i might add) and now every time i replace the fuse and turn the machine on it instantly blows the fuse. this is really pissing me off as i've gone thru about 5 fuses so far just trying a few things...

    i've looked at the schematic as best i can and my understanding is that f4 fuse goes to the solenoid controller board.

    i've disconnected the solenoid controller board and it's still blowing that fkn fuse.

    has anyone got any suggestions?

    was fun for the few hours i DID have it working properly..
    i suppose the next thing to do would be to disconnect the flipper coils and try another fuse? disconnecting the bypass didn't stop the fuse blowing either.

    that'll teach me for being a dodgy impatient bastard. but it was a learning curve. oh and the diodes on each of the coils are to kill the negative magnetic field that is created from de-energising the coils.
    see i'm learning!
    The HillDweller

  • #2
    Everything is put there for a reason as you have now found out. Have a good read through the marvin web site and learn how to repair correctly. I'd say that at least one of your coils are a dead short for a start, better grab yourself a multimeter if you don't already have one.

    Another Holiday


    • #3
      Hi There, You will have to replace the 2 flipper coils, as these are now dead shorts causing f4 5amp slow blow to blow. Other concern is that the playfield fuse should have blown this is a 1amp slow blow. Other issue could be on the transformer board where the fuses are located, bridge rectifier br3 could have been blown. I hope you have learnt a valuable lesson here.


      • #4
        yea i'm thinking the bridge rec. no major harm done. a couple of coils to replace is no biggy. this thing wasn't working when i got it so anything is better than that.

        boxer i know you sell alot of gear on ebay. what's a couple of coils worth to you?

        mayby even a spare rectifier board / power supply. would be handy.

        do you run a shop or anything?

        how come your always parting pinny's out? lol

        i'll desolder those flippers and see if it still blows. i can't see how it can if they're not connected to the solenoid driver board. the only thing connected to the solenoid driver board is top right hand side where some op's removed the connector and soldered the wires directly to the board ( the J3 connector solenoid board) . i'll likely cut these and make a plug for them. i'd like to rebuild the boards and recap them.

        curious why the underplayfield fuse didn't blow. it's a 1amp. there is a couple of other cut wires under there. not sure what they're for.

        garuda might be so kind as to let me have a look under his globetrotter at the convention thing this weekend. i can take a couple pics then and figure out where they go. otherwise it's schematic reading time again!

        any way to test the bridge rec?

        i'll disconnect J1 and J3 of the rectifier board too and see what happens.
        will go thru and test all the voltages. learning very fast

        oh and by the way, your not a virgin poster now. welcome mate

        got a multimeter and just stumbled across that page tonight. will read it and read it and print it!
        The HillDweller


        • #5
          If you didn't damage the playfield with those volcanic coils you could probly consider yourself lucky

          ever seen magnet burn on a TAF? there's no getting rid of it


          • #6
            naah man it didn't get THAT hot...
            playfield is fine
            The HillDweller


            • #7
              Now you have your multimeter and have started reading the marvin site, you can start troubleshooting. If you use the multimeter correctly it will tell you which parts need to be replaced. Personally I'd be checking every coil, diode, transisor and bridge. As for flipper coils and bridges, save yourself any problems and only buy new. have most parts at a resonable price, some tight arses here might say that postage is expensive, but I can't fault their service and now only buy through them. Items usually arrive within 2- 3 working days.

              Another Holiday


              • #8
                i have an alterntive theory

                is the case that when you press the flipper button the coil energises and then the F4 fuse blows?

                I had this on my X's & O's (Bally 1983) - tried all the things from Clay/Marvin's guide but in the end I found that my EOS (end of stroke - the sswitch that is activated when the flippe reaches the top of its arc) was fried and casued the fuse to blow each time.

                Look at the contacts on each switch on the flippers - if they are a grey/white colour chances are they are near the end of their life and should be replaced.

                If the coil was smoking you are better off/probably need to replce it as the inner windings have most likely fused.

                Good luck

                looking for:
                the baseboard for a Gottlieb Royal Guard
                Zaccaria Devil Riders Backglass
                Williams OXO, GTB Volcano


                • #9
                  Hi, Its good to see you are learning about these fine machines, try to read and learn as much as you can about the workings of the pinballs. To check the bridge rectifer, the bridge is basically 4 diodes in a square shape, using your multi meter on diode check, check the 4 sides one at a time, if one side is shorted it will show up as .003 which is a dead short. I have plenty of new bally coils for $15 ea and I also have new end of stroke switches if you want to replace them also. I recently bought out a large job lot of pinball playfields and heaps of spare parts and circuit boards. I also wreck a lot of machines that have no backglass or bad damage in the cabinet or playfield. I like to think that for every pinball that I wreck, it helps bring back 3 or 4 other machines that have not been working for a long time. Long live pinball.
                  Give me a call on 0407116736 if you need any advice or help with anything.
                  regards Tony from Brisbane


                  • #10
                    just an update for if anyone cares, i'm currently rebuilding the rectifier board with new bridge recs ( upgraded) with heatsinks, and new connectors ( these are a bitch of a job but still enjoyable none the less)

                    bridge rec 3 ( which controls the 43v dc to the solenoid relay etc was rooted.

                    good experience.

                    i think replacing all the connectors etc will make the machine very reliable and up the value.

                    will keep the thread updated.
                    The HillDweller


                    • #11
                      Exactly the same problem with my Gtb WChS. Solenoid fuse (48v DC) kept blowing, changed the BR and it all came good.
                      Out of interest the wires were soldered on the legs of the BR, seeing as the new onehad "spade" type connectors I used crimps on it so if it went bad again it will be easier to change.


                      • #12
                        i know what you mean but i dont think it's very hard to change if it goes bad again.
                        i have a temp controlled solder station and a solder sucker. there is one BR on this board that's been replaced with a BR with crimp terminals.

                        in all likelyness it WON't go bad again since it's beefed up AND heatsinked. i like it when things are better than new.
                        there's also a original BR on the board that i'll replace just for fun
                        The HillDweller


                        • #13
                          ok rectifier board is all done. new rectifiers, resoldered all the connections and new connectors. heatsinked rectifiers too.
                          tested voltages and all are good. fuse is no longer blowing but i'll wait until the solenoid board and flipper coilsand EOS switches are replaced before plugging everything into the power supply. solenoid board is next!
                          i suppose doing everything right and upgrading any dodgy stuff should yeild about 10 years of trouble free operation.
                          The HillDweller


                          • #14
                            Good Lad, you have done very well, I'm proud of you. Keep up the good work.
                            the boxerdog


                            • #15
                              alright, an update for anyone who cares. i've fixed / upgraded the solenoid driver board and also the MPU( about $50 worth of parts later). almost ready to go back in, just lacking flipper coils, EOS switches and a new pinball. also about time i cleaned the playfield and got the backglass triple thicked. that should be at least reasonably playable then, oh and not to forget the low amperage bulbs.
                              also picked up the second mata hari tonight. should be able to make 1 good one out of the 2 i have.
                              cant wait,
                              The HillDweller


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