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The Who's Tommy not working


WillK

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Hi,

 

Bill delivered my first Pin this morning and we turned it on, it lit up and played half a song. Started flicking through the menu to put it on free play and then the DMD went blank and the music stopped. The leds continued to flash.

 

Off and on, and a slection of leds come on and the flipper buttons flash rapdily but no music.

 

Checked all the ribbons and replaced 2 fuses that looked a bit dodgy (don't have a multimeter to my name yet) the DMD flashed on for a couple of seconds on the next On, but quickly died again.

 

Can anybody help? Or does anyone know of a technician in/near Shepparton that could get me up and running?

 

Thanks,

Will

 

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@toads - Thanks for coming round today and diagnosing a few things:

 

The plunger solenoid was jamming on as soon as we flicked the power on, even with the coin door open.

 

We disconnected the control wire to it and that stops the solenoid coming on, but the machine still won't boot up.

 

Could that point to a bad transistor? The coil diagram points to Q5 on the PPB. That's a TIP36c, though I haven't checked it with a multimeter yet.

 

Would a transistor stop the machine from booting up? Or is there somethign else going on too?

 

Does anyone have any ideas of what to try next?

 

Thanks!

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The plunger shouldn't engage with the coin door open. Has the high voltage interlock switch been bypassed or fiddled with?

 

A bad transistor can cause a coil to lock on so that's a possibility. It wouldn't cause the machine to stop booting up, though.

 

Seems like you may have power supply issues. What's the power supply like? Any bad fuse clips? Good, steady voltages?

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Thanks for getting back to me. This is my first pin so I'm pretty clueless, but trying to soak up everything people and google throw at me.

 

The coin door looks pretty fiddled with in general, so you might be onto something, there's a disconnected wire here:

523568209_highvoltagemaybe.thumb.jpg.08ed86b3cce8903af9bd910966ac6478.jpg

 

There's one bad fuse clip (my fault from yesterday's attempts). It wasn't booting up before, but at least the propellors on the plane toy tried to come to life. That's not happening today.

 

IMG_4714.thumb.jpg.a86633d2d62e279eb716c1fdead045d6.jpg

 

Power supply and voltages, I'm afraid I don't know really. I've lived at this house for 3 years and it does tend to complain when an electric heater is left on max setting too long but general computers, tvs, vacuums, aircons etc work without complaint. And I've tried it plugged into sockets in the garage and the house.

 

Here's the coil that jams:

514473121_coilinquestion.thumb.jpg.95b9bcad267afb89e6d8c38d8e31f354.jpg

 

Here's the fuse that blows:

 

IMG-4688.thumb.jpg.22b82f5b16f4ec7e2818bcb3adbbac0f.jpg

IMG-4689.thumb.jpg.7f67d359505f1421c2d0ec9a15afe889.jpg

 

And a very hard to read coil diagram for what, in my ultra limited experience, i gather is the one that jams:

IMG-4715.thumb.jpg.218a4fa2bf8b02a7238df284db0c23ef.jpg

 

Let me know if there's anything else I can send through that may be helpful!

 

Thanks again!

 

1192208030_highvoltagemaybe.thumb.jpg.ef72c6bf28cf39785c863e726638265c.jpg

1099021672_highvoltagemaybe.thumb.jpg.92152bd44c8e5f8172be20e42df88a3e.jpg

1155593993_highvoltagemaybe.thumb.jpg.4e3ff364839534692d4f707791aa6e66.jpg

IMG_4714.thumb.jpg.3e38ac74c235b296817c7005cf202823.jpg

63312699_coilinquestion.thumb.jpg.7ba724480dad628f9611df18a5713394.jpg

IMG-4688.thumb.jpg.22503a44f220fceb4de55cfd81bf92e5.jpg

IMG-4715.thumb.jpg.e57c8c2c0dd8642f13e671a2b90ffe94.jpg

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First issue is the interlock switch. It's the white switch below the green and black service buttons on the left of the cabinet when you open the door. It should be pushed in when the coin door is closed, but in your picture the bracket doesn't actually contact it. Therefore it has probably been bypassed as the coils would not work otherwise. What's the back of the switch look like? Turn power off when fiddling with it.

 

The F8 fuse is blowing because the coil is stuck on. Fuse clips on F8 definitely good? Any previous repairs to the board evident? How did you go testing the TIP36? The F4 fuse is for lamps; shouldn't have any affect on the coils. You can worry about that later.

 

Regarding the power supply, I was referring to the power supply board (the one with the big heatsink), not your household power. Are you able to check voltages on the test points?

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Pretty sure that coil will kick if it thinks a ball is in the track in game over as it trys to return the ball to the trough. Is the coil cooked?. Any visiable damage?. Make sure the switch in the track is actually not jammed down or the micro switch has failed making the machine think it has a ball there. The kicker arm itself can jam the switch on with some Data East machines, worthy of checking especially if the machine was stood on it end in transport. Worse comes to worse take one of the wires off the coil, replace the fuse and see if the machine will start. That blown fuse may be causing the machine not to boot. High voltage interlock switch has probably been bypassed. Was very common for those that weren't aware you can pull the switch out to bypass it till the door was closed again resetting the switch.

Those fuse holders are rubbish as you found out and should all be replaced with better quality ones. You can have perfectly good fuses in place but the bad holders don't allow power through them.

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The coin door cut off switch looks pulled out past the door bkt? Which means power always on.

Push in holds power on, pull out with coin door open holds power on.

 

Q5 , D3 need to be checked, changed on the PPB.

Also check Q44 on the driver board. Could also be blown but most likely not.

 

Not booting will need to check the test points for 5v on power supply.

 

When it gets booting, check trough and shooter lane switches.

 

Sometimes a transistor can fail due to age, even if everything else checks out fine. So changing Q5 only may fix it.

 

Start there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The plunger shouldn't engage with the coin door open. Has the high voltage interlock switch been bypassed or fiddled with?

 

A bad transistor can cause a coil to lock on so that's a possibility. It wouldn't cause the machine to stop booting up, though.

 

Seems like you may have power supply issues. What's the power supply like? Any bad fuse clips? Good, steady voltages?

 

after a quick look at he the pin..

 

Totally agree here,hence my idea of disconnecting the coil which in turn stopped the fuse from blowing, to see if it would at least boot up the machine.

And I agree on the not booting up issues and going back to basics with checking the power supply voltages.

 

 

 

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The coin door cut off switch looks pulled out past the door bkt? Which means power always on.

Push in holds power on, pull out with coin door open holds power on.

 

Q5 , D3 need to be checked, changed on the PPB.

Also check Q44 on the driver board. Could also be blown but most likely not.

 

Not booting will need to check the test points for 5v on power supply.

 

When it gets booting, check trough and shooter lane switches.

 

Sometimes a transistor can fail due to age, even if everything else checks out fine. So changing Q5 only may fix it.

 

Start there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'm thinking the same.

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Remember gents this machine has just been delivered from interstate from what I understand is a reputable person.

he has offered half the price for a tech to have it fixed, so he sounds like a fair bloke to me.

 

Let's just wait for an outcome between the seller, his tech and the buyer before going any further.

As I've said to Will quite happy to help him or his tech however I can.

 

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I'm getting 18 odd volts AC on the input to the power supply board, as per specs.

But no 5 vdc on the test point on the board.

The 18vac leads straight into a diode bridge before making its way to the 5vdc regulator.

i couldn't find a point to test the DC out from the diode bridge, but looking at the top of the bridge rectifier I did find the bridge had burn marks into the circuit board.

 

i think the board needs to come out as I bet the back side is worse and probably needs a new bridge rectifier

What you think people...

 

b0404e1152a00609cfe1376ded0dac10.thumb.jpg.aed48b9eecc5a7d82902335813ecc6d4.jpg

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