Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×
  • 0
IGNORED

Lethal Weapon Flasher Issue


yngbld

Question

Hey Guys :

 

I have a weird flasher issue with 8R on my LW3 on occasion when in diagnostics they may flash but slowly diminish to nothing .Upon reset and re entering diagnostics I have no activity at all. It shares Q39 with the knocker and no deal on either. I replaced both Q39 and Q31 and a 7408 J# on the original board for good measure and no change so opted to slot in my TMNT CPU and PPB board thanks to @arcadeking for his help on changing jumpers and still no change with new boards except to flash once and diminish again. Slotted old PPB back in replaced existing relay and re flowed entire board to no avail I checked for continuity from CN11 to J1 alongside with both d8 and d16 diodes seem OK , J9 direct to flasher bulbs and J2 to knocker all have continuity Voltages across flasher bulbs are registering sub 32v also voltage from P/S to J6 indicating 32 volts on pin 7 red wire but nothing from,4,5 however they seem to be controlling the bulbs?. There is patch work from J5 to CN8 looks intact however not getting any voltage readings from fuse F1-4 on PPB? .All other flashers and coils fire, knocker will fire if shorted at ground via q39. Also temp disconnected knocker but no change to flashers Any help would be greatly appreciated as i'm lost! 🙄

 

cheers in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
Nope the flashers don't fire when grounded, but i noticed when grounding other coils they didn't either so I dont think anything of it?, as for the flashers there's 4 3 in the playfield and one in the backbox, none of the flash...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
As you have tried multiple boards with no difference in symptoms, the issue must be on the playfield or elsewhere in the cabinet. Wiring in the cabinet all good? Have you reseated all of the connectors that supply the flashers and coils on the MPU board? Double checked the fuses?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Hey Ocyen cheers for keeping on attacking with me mate. I re flowed all the pins on the ppb board and checking continuity from all relevant points from bulbs back to J connectors and and checked C11 back J1 when they cross over from mpu to ppb all seem fine fuses f5 and f6 on ps seem ok f6 on ppb showing 32+ volts the knocker did show a bad diode so replaced it and made no difference which make me think at least for the knocker maybe something else up the line may be buggered which takes me to Q5 but that cant be, two ppb boards both having q5 knackered even then doesn't explain flashers showing a slight pulse then dying two separate issues that share the same line from cn11 to J1 then split into two different tracks with all relevant components showing correct readings yet still buggering up!. Head scratcher ..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
Go into flasher test and select "rotate" I think they call it. This has the flashers test one after the other. Through memory if you select one and lock it just to that one flasher,( repeat) the rate does alter. Not sure if this is what you are experiencing but can't hurt to mention. Also with the knocker coil with the blown diode, presume the transistor is gone as well as a coil without a diode or a shorted diode usually blows the transistor immediately.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
cheers lads for the help: update rechecked cn11 wires showed slight corrosion even though we had continuity decided to re solder with new connector. victory at least with the flashers ! so thanks for the inspiration @ocyen , knocker seems to blow f5 on ppb and takes out other coils so looks like i will be taking out q5 and replacing, bizarre two separate problems that shared the same transistor!, with it being good hopefully q5 fixes the knocker @Autosteve keep you posted 🖕
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Progress - that's good!

 

 

What do you mean when you say that you resoldered with a new connector? CN11 is an IDC connector - there shouldn't be any solder involved.

 

As for the mention of corrosion, can you post a picture of the board? CN11 is directly underneath where the batteries will drip. If CN11 was corroded, it is likely that there is corrosion elsewhere on the board which is causing at least some of your issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

All sorted guys: Coil was knackered and did take out q5 re the corrosion all good Ive got aLithium and cn11 is down below so must of been from previous owner having done something all else looks fine. I didn't have the original .156 type molex so improvised with one from jaycar hence the solder, in the end conculsuion i would treat each issue separately as opposed to assuming that the were both caused by the same thing. Lesson learnt! thanks again for the input.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...