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Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle (ACNC) Tips, Tweaks and Repairs...


MarkOZLAD

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I got my Spooky Pinball Alice Cooper's Nightmare Castle pinball NIB last year and I love it....but it hasn't been all smooth sailing and I thought I'd share some of the tweaks and minor repairs that I have made to mine to get it sorted.

 

I hope this thread can serve as a repository for other fixes people may have. I will start with a skeleton of my notes and add images etc over time to fill it out.

 

Problem 1: Ball ends up inside cabinet after released from Frankenstein

 

This used to happen very regularly when I first got the machine (note it hasn't happened since the latest 04 Feb 2020 code update). It was a total pain in the arse. I fixed this by raising the height of the Frankenstein platform in the settings

 

Problem 2: Only one speaker/crackly sound in two speakers

 

This one turned out to be a side effect of Problem 1 because we used a long piece of cardboard to reach inside the cabinet and retrieve the balls that had fallen into the cabinet. Fixed this by reinserting the long/thick black audio cable that goes into the output of the amp (has a 3.5mm headphone style jack). Will likely be securing this cable with silicon at some point in the future

 

Problem 3: Extra balls were being put into play when they shouldn't be

 

The game would quite regularly spit out new balls onto the "plunger" area when there was already a ball in play or if you left the machine sitting there it would end up with all the balls in the plunger area. Another symptom was that the game would put a ball into the plunger area when the machine was turned on. For me the fix was to re-seat the connections to the opto-coupler (I'll provide more detail later) for the drain

 

 

Problem 4: Lock down bar wouldn't stay down

 

This was only an issue for a short time when the game was brand new. The padding under the bar was stiff and would make it pop out. Over time with pressure the padding shortened and the lock down bar fits perfectly now

 

Problem 5: Left Flipper button fell out

 

I hit my flippers hard, other people make comments :-) Over time the ring on the inside of the left flipper button that prevents it coming out of the machine must have worn and the button started to fall out during play. I currently have a 2 cent fix in place where i wrapped the inside edge of the flipper button with sticky tape. It's pretty dodgy but has held for months now without issue. A more permanent solution might be some glue/glue+baking soda solution (or a new button of course) but I see no reason to change my fix at the moment

 

image3df203ae3a35ccd1.th.png

 

 

Problem 6: Left sling above flipper keeps firing when ball not near

 

I believe I have traced this down to worn rubbers. I'm actually a bit alarmed at how quickly the rubbers have worn on the slings. I moved the rubbers around and it alleviated the issue. New rubbers in order at some stage.

Edited by MarkOZLAD
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I too have had issues with ACNC

Firstly the speaker on the right of back box was never working on arrival....You actually need to take the plastic off when you strip a wire for connection.

Did that fix myself.

Have had switches require adjustment in the monster lock on both sides.

The Guillotine motor has failed.

The Ghost multiball switch solder has come off when the ball drops from the upper playfield.

@ stuffed flipper buttons?

Now the monster diverter is not working at all? And the monster motor appears to not work either...

Can't do a switch test since the new code as the flipper navigation works but the start button will not activate a test?

Not Happy Jan....

To make things worse their have been software glitches that slow the game down. The new code fixed this but only for a short time.

Now that I have returned from Pincade in NZ and spoken to 4 or 5 other owners of Spooky Machines this is not uncommon but I do seem to have one of the bad ones....

Now all I need to do is get some assistance from Spooky....

 

I am not holding my breath on that one.....

 

Otherwise when working properly it's a friggin awesome game

 

Putting up with it for now...Anyone else having similar dramas???

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When I first got the machine I fiddled with the Amp. I wasn't happy so I asked Spooky if they could provide the default setup on their amps.

 

My machine came with the Lepai LP-168HA amp.

 

Luke kindly sent me this photo to show me the defaults.

 

amp-photo.md.jpg

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I believe I have the same problem with the Frankenstein ramp diverter as DAG. Today I opened it up to see if I could work out the issue. I ended up getting sidetracked with cleaning the playfield.

 

When I went to play a game, the Left flipper wasn't working....Disaster!

 

I inspected underneath the board, re-seating all the connectors nearby, didn't help. I messaged Chris from Spooky Australia and he told me to compare the coil resistances between the left and (working) right flipper. They both had around 135 ohms so the coil was still likely good.

 

I put the game together and for some reason played a game with the right flipper. (I was exasperated at this stage). Sure enough I hit the ball into the left scoop and it didn't shoot back out. This gave me a hint that there was some kind of power rail issue. I reopened the set and started following the wires. The left flipper coil is attached to orange wires that run all down the left hand side and go to the scoop punch out activator and others. I kept following and found that they all went to a circuit board behind the back glass.

 

81708C00-2307-4D54-A726-0961B8D5A8B7.md.jpg

 

I noticed that the two boards looked identical except that the top board didn't have a status LED showing (circled). I sent the picture to Chris and he told me to check the fuses. Sure enough the fuse just to the right and underneath the LED that wasn't glowing was blown.

 

The fuse part number was a T4AL250V - 4 amp slow blow fuse.

Jaycar Catalog No: SF2175

 

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/cartridge-fuses/6685972/

 

I ordered a bunch of fuses from RS Components and was almost content to wait the few days it would take to arrive (or head to Jaycar tomorrow) when I realised that CRT TVs have similar fuses. CRT TVs are my hobby so I went and checked a bunch of old chassis' I had lying around and quickly found the exact part. I installed the new fuse and we are back in business. :-)

Edited by MarkOZLAD
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Can't do a switch test since the new code as the flipper navigation works but the start button will not activate a test?

 

I noticed this on mine today. That should be reason to rush out a new code update in my opinion.

 

EDIT: I reported this bug to Spooky, they are aware and will fix.

 

Edited by MarkOZLAD
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While I'm on a roll, there have been some other things that I missed in my original post.

 

The screws on these posts can come loose. Keep and eye out for them and tighten them every time you open up the machine. I'm thinking some kind of silicon or nylon washer might be a good idea.

 

1315785E-959B-4F8E-AC00-9536DF5B539B.md.jpg

 

Also, the metal bars that come from the guillotine and run down to the side lanes can rise up and need to be pushed back in place.

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While I'm on a roll, there have been some other things that I missed in my original post.

 

The screws on these posts can come loose. Keep and eye out for them and tighten them every time you open up the machine. I'm thinking some kind of silicon or nylon washer might be a good idea.

 

1315785E-959B-4F8E-AC00-9536DF5B539B.md.jpg

 

Also, the metal bars that come from the guillotine and run down to the side lanes can rise up and need to be pushed back in place.

 

Looks like your rubbers are wearing quickly just like mine.....Reminds me of a song....

Theres a fraction too much friction...

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The Frankenstein Diverter issue has been a bit of fun. After blowing two fuses I replaced with a matching spec Jaycar sourced fuse and it hasn't blown since

 

B863D761-F027-49FC-B5CF-F1D48556228A.md.jpg

 

Fuse Type: bussagc 3a

Jaycar catalog no: SF2196

3A Quick Blow fuse 6.3X32MM

 

However...

 

The diverter isn't working properly. Using the servo utility I've been able to get it to move intermittently. It seems the FS5109M servo that drives it has issues or the driver board that drives it has issues.

 

Will chat to Spooky tonight, these parts are rare in Australia and prices on Ebay for shipping are outrageous.

Edited by MarkOZLAD
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HAVE YOU NOTICED THAT THE CLEAR RUBBERS BE THEY POSTS SLINGS OR OTHERWISE DO NOT CLEAN UP VERY MUCH?

Crap I was yelling again ...

I actually was told to stop asking for a manual from Lucas at Spooky.....He was dead set serious....So was I and I told him that you get a manual at dollars and sense in 60 different languages for a $2.00 item. They thought I was being unreasonable.

I would think in this day and age that I provided my email for all invoicing and payments thus I would think as a rule it would be easy to let all consumers / purchases that there is a new update / code coming but I find out thru those more tech savvy mates of mine.

I would not have any clients if I was so lack luster with my attitude...It is unfortunate as the machine when working is awesome.

At the moment it has lived half it's life turned off in the naughty corner.

I have also been sent various fix videos for a variety of things that are only going to be helpful if I have access to them when a problem arises.

This is not an ideal way when you have 30 guests around to play your collection and something fails.

For a company that thanks you for their support they have missed the return favor...

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I've had to do a fair bit of work recently to get my ACNC back up to scratch.....

 

All my servos were dead - Frank lock, Guillotine and Frankenstein monster. I had to replace the fuse and then it turns out the servo for the Frank diverter was bung. Got a new one from the Australian Spooky distributor. Installed it.

 

imageebd1b557a346f79e.md.png

 

After installation I had to go through the servo settings and get everything right again for both the diverter and Frankenstein himself. It was especially painful getting Frankenstein's bottom and top positions correct so that he released the balls onto the playfield.

 

After that I tackled the issue with the sound. I mentioned earlier on the thread that we had troubles with Frankenstein dropping balls into the guts of the cabinet and we were using a "carboard stick" to reach in and get them. By doing this we had broken the 3.5mm port to the amplifier. Due to this we were only getting the right channel intermittently. I fixed this by adding a 3.5mm to two RCA adaptor and plugging it into the RCA ports at the back of the amp. It was not that easy though, I had to move the amp so that I had room to attach the RCAs.

 

imagefcabebd5b4559420.png

 

So then we went to play it and the rubber broke on the right flipper. I was able to obtain a replacement off Spooky Australia and got a replacement and now we are away.

 

image.png

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Just ordered a rubber and post protector kit from Pinball Haus who are an Aussie Arcade sponsor. They now have a full list of the parts and I am sure can fix you up. I got mine as spares so I ordered clear bands for slings and purple flipper bands so I can jut replace as they go.

 

I got the list of parts from here...

 

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/in...p/view/id/1039

 

[TABLE=width: 1031]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl65]Product Name[/TD]

[TD=class: xl65]Model[/TD]

[TD=class: xl65]Colour[/TD]

[TD=class: xl65]Code[/TD]

[TD=class: xl65]Quantity[/TD]

[TD=class: xl65]Alternate Desc[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: Post Sleeve - Tapere.. Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-POSTST-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]6[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Post Sleeves - Stern Slim[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 3/8 O.D. Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-38OD-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]2[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch O.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 3/16 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-316ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]5[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 3/16 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 3/8 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-38ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]4[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 3/8 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 1 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-1ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]3[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 1 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 1 1/2 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-112ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]5[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 1 1/2 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 2 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-2ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]2[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 2 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: 2 3/4 Inch ID Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-234ID-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]2[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - 2 3/4 Inch I.D.[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: Flipper Ring - Stand.. Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-FLIP-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]2[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - Flipper Standard[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: Flipper Ring - Low B.. Ring Color: Purple[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Purple[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-FLIPTH-PU[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]1[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Rubber Rings - Flipper Thin[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=class: xl63]Titan Competition Silicone Rings[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Ring Size: Post Sleeve - 1/2 In.. Ring Color: G.I.T.D.[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Glow[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]CS-POSTDE-GL[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63, align: right]2[/TD]

[TD=class: xl63]Post Sleeves - 1/2 Inch (Stern / DE)[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

 

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Code seems to have changed a lot of graphics showing what to hit and where you are within gameplay but you need to have an extra set of eyes to see it as it shows for under a second.

The switch tests are back but the menu is still missing things.

The servo's are still stuffed. The Monster Lab Lock still is not working...

 

Time to contact Spooky....again

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A note for those updating code, all high scrores and settings pretty much get squashed. This is pretty crap I think.

 

However, the old settings get written to files on the SD Card that is used to update the code. I found my previous settings in the file "game_user_settings_1589373274" so I could redo my changes to coil strengths, servo positions, volume etc.

 

The old high scores were backed up in "game_user_data_1589373274"

 

Use Notepad++ to open.

 

image.th.png

 

imagea0b40e4e5d702506.th.png

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