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Pinball Pool Restoration

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    #31
    Small update.
    All the cabinet work has finally been done and ready for painting.

    Click image for larger version

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    It certainly took a lot longer than normal due to the rebuilding I had to do on the back and front.
    The back box door required a lot of filling and sanding as it was made from reused timber. Some parts had three joins in them.

    Comment


      #32
      ...and you still have the bloody boat!
      looking to buy gottlieb electro mechanical pinball machines from any era

      Comment


        #33
        Another quick update, the base coat and the top coat done.
        The paint covered the wood repairs so all looks good.
        I have just added the speckle, now to let it dry for a few days then start on the stencils

        Click image for larger version

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        Click image for larger version

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          #34
          Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

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            #35
            First side finished, I had a few issues with the paint and the stencils that required a few touch ups. Not a 100% happy with the result but at least one side finished and clear coated.

            Click image for larger version

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            I'll give it a few days to set them start on the other side.

            And one side of the back box done as well.

            Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by thejudge; 9 February 2019, 04:07 PM.

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              #36
              Nice work Trev. Another pin well on the way to being saved.
              What sort of stencils did you use out of curiousity?
              http://www.aussiearcade.com.au/forum.../138-RAIL-WAYS

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by Railways View Post
                Nice work Trev. Another pin well on the way to being saved.
                What sort of stencils did you use out of curiousity?
                Getting the full experience with home made stencils.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Back from holidays and getting back into this project.

                  Paint work all done, it could have been better. The yellow colour gave me heaps of running and bleeding issues for some reason?
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Now starting to put things back together.

                  I cleaned up the power board by giving it and sand then sealed it as it's only particle board and it had some swelling here and there.
                  I also did the recommended addition of extra fuses to protect the small transformer. I only recently found out about this, I might have to do this to my Joker Poker.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  All the front parts de-rusted and cleaned up. The coin door came up nice, just have to add the sticker.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Still removing rust from some parts, so much rust on this pin. I supposed that is to be expected since the cabinet had some much water damage.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Paint looks quite good to me. Surprising how few of these machines lasted, Pinball Pool was everywhere and did earn very good coin. Probably would have helped if substitute CPU boards were designed and made earlier like a lot of the system 1 Gottliebs. I used to see many going to the tip after the boards failed which is a real shame because these are the vintage machines most of us learnt to play on.
                    While they may not have been everyone's favorite brand and type, the system 1s, they taught so many players to play pinball and to that, start a lifetime addiction.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I have just finished putting the power board into the cabinet.
                      I found that the power switch was faulty but luckily I had a spare and swapped them over.

                      Not having worked on the system 1 pin with the sound card, I just want to confirm how the connections go.

                      The picture below show 3 connectors, one obviously goes to the sound card, but the other 2 are male and female 6 pin connectors.

                      Click image for larger version

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                      I am thinking that if I use the sound card then the two 6 pin connectors join.
                      If I use the chimes then I plug the chimes connector into the female connector and the male connector will not be used. I assume I would also have to wire up the knocker into the chime connector as well.
                      Is that correct ?

                      I am also going to be using the P1-X4 board which also has an audio out, so I just wanted to confirm how it would normally go together before looking at the sound option on the other board.

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                        #41
                        Gee, I thought someone would have taken some pictures of there system one internals for you by now but no so this is what I have found that may help. Pictures showing the sound card and the harnesses but also something that may help explaining how to convert from sound board to chimes. Yes you want the sound board and I agree with that thinking but it explains what each wire does which should go a long way to help installing the sound board.....





                        Quote....

                        Substituting Chimes for the Sound Card.
                        Because of the sound card problems listed above, many operators take out the MPU controlled sound board and replace it with an older chime unit. Most players find this far more pleasing and consistent to the ear. All system1 games are downward compatible to chime coils. Be sure to use chime coils 12 ohms or greater. If coils with less resistance than 12 ohms are used, the driver board transistors Q26,Q27,Q28 will fail. If adapting a chime box from a Bally game, that should work fine as 50 volt chime coils will have higher resistance. Also don't forget to add 1N4004 diodes to the chime coil lugs, with the coil's power lug connecting to the banded side of the diode.

                        Mount the chime box right next to the knocker coil in the lower cabinet side panel near the game's power switch.
                        Route the 25 volt power from the adjacent knocker coil lug (banded diode lug), which is right next to the existing sound board (and the newly mounted chime box).
                        "Daisy chain" the 25 volt DC coil power to all three chime coils' banded diode coil lugs.
                        Now move the following wires from the sound board connector to the chime box coils' non-banded diode coil lugs:
                        orange/black/black wire goes to the 10 point chime coil lug.
                        red/brown/yellow wire goes to the 100 point chime coil lug.
                        red/green/green wire goes to the 1000 point chime coil lug.

                        Remove the sound board from the game.

                        Here is just some great information regarding system 1 Gottliebs including a lot of mods that were being done shortly after they were pulled out of boxes by my company. Make sure you do fuse the small transformer or you will be sorry one day. Also take care of the grounding issues.

                        PINBALL Gottlieb System 1 Pinball Repair

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by Autosteve View Post
                          Gee, I thought someone would have taken some pictures of there system one internals for you by now but no so this is what I have found that may help. Pictures showing the sound card and the harnesses but also something that may help explaining how to convert from sound board to chimes. Yes you want the sound board and I agree with that thinking but it explains what each wire does which should go a long way to help installing the sound board.....

                          Quote....

                          Substituting Chimes for the Sound Card.
                          Because of the sound card problems listed above, many operators take out the MPU controlled sound board and replace it with an older chime unit. Most players find this far more pleasing and consistent to the ear. All system1 games are downward compatible to chime coils. Be sure to use chime coils 12 ohms or greater. If coils with less resistance than 12 ohms are used, the driver board transistors Q26,Q27,Q28 will fail. If adapting a chime box from a Bally game, that should work fine as 50 volt chime coils will have higher resistance. Also don't forget to add 1N4004 diodes to the chime coil lugs, with the coil's power lug connecting to the banded side of the diode.

                          Mount the chime box right next to the knocker coil in the lower cabinet side panel near the game's power switch.
                          Route the 25 volt power from the adjacent knocker coil lug (banded diode lug), which is right next to the existing sound board (and the newly mounted chime box).
                          "Daisy chain" the 25 volt DC coil power to all three chime coils' banded diode coil lugs.
                          Now move the following wires from the sound board connector to the chime box coils' non-banded diode coil lugs:
                          orange/black/black wire goes to the 10 point chime coil lug.
                          red/brown/yellow wire goes to the 100 point chime coil lug.
                          red/green/green wire goes to the 1000 point chime coil lug.

                          Remove the sound board from the game.

                          Here is just some great information regarding system 1 Gottliebs including a lot of mods that were being done shortly after they were pulled out of boxes by my company. Make sure you do fuse the small transformer or you will be sorry one day. Also take care of the grounding issues.

                          PINBALL Gottlieb System 1 Pinball Repair
                          Thanks for all the info Steve.

                          I'll start with the sound board or use the sound from the Pascal board, but if I don't like it I can go back to the chimes.

                          I still have a bit of work to get to that point but it's getting there.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            I now have finished cleaning up the insert board. I had to sand and seal the particle board as it was looking a bit ordinary.
                            I have also redone the connectors and have attached to the Pascal board.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            I repainted the front with a glossy white finish, hopefully that will help to reflect the lights onto the back glass.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            That completes the work on the cabinet, now to start work on the playfield.
                            Last edited by thejudge; 29 March 2019, 03:08 PM.

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                              #44
                              Looking good so far.
                              Those all in one Pascal boards are awesome, It funny looking inside a system1 that's running one and its like.. "where are the rest of the boards"

                              Comment


                                #45
                                I had an issue with the PF that I haven't had before and here was my solution.

                                Part of the PF had delaminated in front of the 'When Lit' insert causing a bump. Because the PF has mylar on it, which I didn't want to remove, I wasn't sure how to fix it.

                                Click image for larger version

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                                I came up with the idea of using a syringe with a needle, filling it with wood glue, and pushing it through the mylar and into the void under the delamination.

                                Click image for larger version

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                                Once I had enough glue in the void, I pulled the needle out, weighted it down and let it dry over night.

                                Click image for larger version

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                                I am very happy with the result, the PF is nice and flat and the hole in the mylar from the needle sealed it self with the glue.

                                Its not perfect but a lot better than it was

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