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  • Funhouse- yet another funhouse restore thread.

    and why not, probably one of the best games ever made which usually gets over looked by some because of its lack of a DMD, don't be fooled though, this game has got almost exactly the same guts as games like Twilight Zone (I always assumed Funhouse was system 11 hardware).

    Turned the game on and it works fine, usual things broken, eyelids wont close on Rudy, CPU board has some battery corrosion etc Positive things however the Playfield has very little wear, cab is in decent nic and the alpha numeric displays are like new.

    First Pic of when the pin was first assembled


    Well to cut to the bones here's a few pics of where I'm at.
    I pulled the Playfield out of the cab wires and all, I then decided to separate the wiring, I've removed the solenoid and flasher harness, then the Switch but I've decided to leave the LAMP's on, they should be easy to plug and won't get in the way when we clear.

    Playfield out, the Mylar is intact.


    I've gone over it quickly with some shelite, it looks much better.


    Now I don't know what I'm going to do here but I have a feeling theres going to be a lot of touch up work involved.
    You can see how good the white is on the mylar part but when it meets the unprotected playfield its faded dull(same with the blue) and shit theres also a lot hair line cracks in the paint. Ball swirl marks need to be removed too.
    Close up shot of a section of the PF


    I'm not looking forward to removing the Mylar but it has to be done, the small arrows around the centre of the clock will need to be reseated too.
    Any tips, suggestions and comments would be appreciated.

    What needs to be done.
    Mylar Removed
    Inserts reseated.
    Playfield cleaned and touched up, Rudy also needs to be done.
    Clear coated. I'm actually a bit worried about this, 2 pac seems to have reaction to the bare insert plastic. We had problems when fixing a insert problem with STTNG where when the clear was applied directly on top of the bare insert it started getting tiny surface cracks.
    CPU cleaned up and mount remote battery holder, also reprogram the latest version of the roms (which is 2 meg instead of 1) (Done)

    What I want to do.
    New ramps
    New Trap Door
    New Cab Decals (long term)
    A new playfield would be nice but I can't really justify the price, and where's the fun and challenge in restoring?
    I'm sure there's heaps of other things I'd like to do, a game thats worth restoring.

    So from peoples experience I take it goo gone or De-Solv-It is the best way to tackle the mylar on a non diamond plated playfield?? I couldn't find De-Solv-It at bunnings.
    I will have to grab one of these magic erasers, be interesting to see if it can get the grime out of the paint.
    Last edited by Arcade King; 8th July 2008, 08:30 PM.

  • #2
    Hmm.. Mylar removal - my favorite !

    I think Creech had a go at removing the mylar on his FH with great results. He might have used freeze spray. I guess the key here is patience, and trial and error. The mylar on these playfields is thicker, and the adhesive is generally stronger. Having said that, I removed mylar off a Fishtales with minimum effort - just a hair dryer and some time took care of that..
    We are the largest supplier of Pinball Ramps in Australia.
    Distributors for CPR, Pinball Inc, Planetary Pinball, Starship-Fantasy, Ball Baron, Pincore, Cliffy Protectors, Superbands
    http://http://www.rtbb.com.au/
    http://https://www.facebook.com/RideTheBoneyBeast

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Strangeways View Post
      I guess the key here is patience
      Pfffft Patience! who needs it I tells ya, I say just give it the 1,2,3 heave ho rip.

      BTW I do recall Garuda (where ever the **** hes disappeared to) sayings hes used freeze spray on early pins with good success.

      .................I'm scared!

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      • #4
        Hi Guys, there can never be too many pinball restoration threads. Its get to see all these old girls getting the treatment that they truly deserve.
        Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

        Comment


        • #5
          My experience on Firepower (my 1st attempt at removal) I tried

          De-solve-it (from Bunnings ) lots of patience required, work real slow let the glue dissolve, use a blade of some kind, lifted paint otherwise

          Hair dryer, worked all right, left lots of residue, don't leave it in one area for to long or it can melt the paint (worse with a heat gun I imagine)

          Goof off, good for stubborn glue removal, harsh on paint, I wasn't comfortable using it as the main solvent for mylar removal, can melt the paint if left on for to long

          I wish I had of tried the freeze spray, might still do it on the pop bumper mylar (man they are stuck down well, but that's for another thread )

          Main thing I can say is be patient, walk away and come back if it's pissing you off
          "Beer, it does a belly good!"

          Wanted: Pacman Cab Next Project: Skinny MAME Cab for Samfoot, thread soon, no really. I might even do one on my Pole Position cab!

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          • #6
            Funhouse was also made as a system 11, the system 11 ones are the ones with the diamond plate playfields.
            WANTED

            Another Holiday
            .

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Strangeways View Post
              Hmm.. Mylar removal - my favorite !

              I think Creech had a go at removing the mylar on his FH with great results. He might have used freeze spray. I guess the key here is patience, and trial and error. The mylar on these playfields is thicker, and the adhesive is generally stronger. Having said that, I removed mylar off a Fishtales with minimum effort - just a hair dryer and some time took care of that..
              Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.

              To clean all the gunky glue off, just use goof-off but be careful as any paint that has lifted will continue to lift a bigger area around it. Only use it in areas where paint has not lifted. To be safe, just use heaps of desolve-it and let it sit for a while. Then wipe off with a clean rag. Do it again and wipe off with a different clean rag.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Creech View Post
                Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.

                To clean all the gunky glue off, just use goof-off but be careful as any paint that has lifted will continue to lift a bigger area around it. Only use it in areas where paint has not lifted. To be safe, just use heaps of desolve-it and let it sit for a while. Then wipe off with a clean rag. Do it again and wipe off with a different clean rag.
                gunky glue removal - That would do it.. Just to be sure - if you go down the path of using goof off, get the can - about the size of a cigarette packet. Dab some on a rag - never ever - on the direct playfield.... oh - and ensure the work area is well ventilated.
                We are the largest supplier of Pinball Ramps in Australia.
                Distributors for CPR, Pinball Inc, Planetary Pinball, Starship-Fantasy, Ball Baron, Pincore, Cliffy Protectors, Superbands
                http://http://www.rtbb.com.au/
                http://https://www.facebook.com/RideTheBoneyBeast

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                • #9
                  This is gonna be great to follow... I have a mylar removal in the future, so am keen to see how this goes.

                  And it may make AK slow down to human levels of restoration speed (for a day or two)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Creech View Post
                    Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.
                    +1

                    Freeze spray didn't do shit on my FH. Desolv-it worked great. You just have to take your time.
                    Only paint that came up was some of the insert letters that had already lifted with the mylar (stuck to the underside of the mylar bubble).

                    I'd use Shellite to remove the glue. I wouldn't let Goof-off touch my PF as it removes paint!

                    I also had the problem with the whites being a cream colour as well as the blues. Not sure if it can be fixed without repainting...

                    I tried some ME on the whites, but all I did was remove paint (esp. along the cracks). Others might be able to use it better, but I ran out of patience pretty quick...



                    In then end I just repainted the blues and whites!



                    The clear should cover up the hairline cracks (unless they're full of dirt). I had problems with small air bubbles on the inserts after clearing. Probably from the guy clearing it (and baked it). They did have small cracks too so that might have affected it.
                    Last edited by Mickey Juice; 9th July 2008, 04:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                    BEEP BEEP Richie! They ALL float down here. When your down here with us, you'll float too!

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                    • #11
                      Another for Desolvit, (and slowly) and for glue residue I used Isopropyl Alchohol
                      http://users.bigpond.net.au/BenWah/P...irepower1.html (incompleted webpage, I should get around to finishing that someday)
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mickey Juice View Post
                        +1

                        Freeze spray didn't do shit on my FH. Desolv-it worked great. You just have to take your time.
                        Only paint that came up was some of the insert letters that had already lifted with the mylar (stuck to the underside of the mylar bubble).

                        I'd use Shellite to remove the glue. I wouldn't let Goof-off touch my PF as it removes paint!

                        I also had the problem with the whites being a cream colour as well as the blues. Not sure if it can be fixed without repainting...

                        I tried some ME on the whites, but all I did was remove paint (esp. along the cracks). Others might be able to use it better, but I ran out of patience pretty quick...



                        In then end I just repainted the blues and whites!



                        The clear should cover up the hairline cracks (unless they're full of dirt). I had problems with small air bubbles on the inserts after clearing. Probably from the guy clearing it (and baked it). They did have small cracks too so that might have affected it.
                        Thanks for the info Mick, I think I will end up repainting the blues and White, I have a antique white colour (water based acrylic) I bought from Crazy Clarks.
                        It matches the white that wasnt faded real nice, I don't think I want to go with a white white if you know what i mean.

                        Originally posted by humpalot View Post
                        Funhouse was also made as a system 11, the system 11 ones are the ones with the diamond plate playfields.
                        Taken from IPD

                        Originally posted by IPD
                        Reportedly, about 200 of the first playfields made were manufactured with "Diamond Plate" covering. Additionally, several years later and due to dwindling replacement stock, a set of NOS replacement playfields was manufactured which also had the Diamond Plate covering, although these are also reported to suffer from having the red color 'bleed' around the center playfield clock.

                        Also, early production models of Funhouse have the Williams System 11 sound board (part no. D-11581) hooked up to the WPC board (via an adapter), because the WPC sound board wasn't yet ready for distribution.
                        So only the system 11 sound board was used with an adapter initially which probably accounts for the poor sample quality, shame they couldnt resample it for the WPC.

                        Thanks for all the input so far fellahs, appreciate it.

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                        • #13
                          "Ivory white" also matches old PF white very well, I found normal white just to white as well
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Looking good so far.
                            Try the different methods mentioned to remove mylar and see what works best for you.
                            Don't rush!!...or you could end up regretting it.

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                            • #15
                              theres that don't rush line again! I'm doomed i tells ya!

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