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Turning a CPR Firepower Playfield from Bronze to Gold.


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So finally got round to pulling the FP CPR Playfield I had stored away in its box in a dark cupboard after all these years, and was a little disappointed with how it’s cured and settled.

 

Quite a bit of graining and a bit of insert sink etc , so what else to do but block it back and shoot another coat of clear over it.

 

The before

 

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Bit of sink back

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Quite a bit of Graining

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After a couple of extra coats of clear,block and polish

 

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Following this one with interest.

Your thread is reminding me I have to pull my finger out and get stuck into my FP playfield swap soon.

Last time I looked at my gold CPR PF it looked ok so fingers crossed it still is.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

 

We would have bought these at the same time I recon when I used to lurk over on AP. Probably 5+ years or so ago !

 

 

 

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Couple of shots of the underside, starting to come together and waiting for some lamp sockets before tackling the GI braid.

Lots of cleaning tumbling and polishing of parts takes some serious time.

One thing I will say is don’t trust the underside dimpling some are way off, non existent and a few are spot on.

 

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Old yellowed Ball saucers going to be replaced temporarily fitted up for mech alignment

 

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Wow, I'd of never thought such damage simply by not using it in storage in a box. There have always been roamers about leaving NOS playfields for to long such as the paint drying out before the wood has cured causing the paint to chip badly when a ball finally rolled over it but that to my understanding was something like 15 years.

As for the inserts sinking or rising I ask why would that happen?.

Again, my understanding was this was caused by the heat created by the light bulb usually by idiots pushing the bulb up to high in the insert hole.

I'm thinking maybe these playfield copies may have more underlying issues.

I will say you have turned bad into good though. That playfield now looks amazing.

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  • 1 month later...

Been awhile too busy trying to finish this PF!

Embarked on a mission to rebuild the original Williams target assemblies rather than putting late model units in, I had a pile of parts form another PF also,

so chose the best and managed to build a nice complete set of 10.

The original parts manuals on Planetary pinball are gold for this for the switch stack arrangement

Procrastinated as to go the original bullseyes or the decals, decals won out and look fantastic imho.

 

Last pic of loom Re install, bit of a wash and a neaten up, replace of all diodes Mandatory

 

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Turning a CPR Firepower Playfield from Bronze to Gold.

 

Underside wiring Done Finally with Switch, lamp and solenoid looms reinstalled in that order As per Factory.

I used molex connectors on the flipper assemblies to allow ease of removal for maintenance/repairs.

 

 

7d1b6e35b8e58b0790196a36554c503d.jpg

 

 

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Edited by TUF-427
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Underside wiring Done Finally with Switch, lamp and solenoid looms reinstalled in that order As per Factory.

I used molex connectors on the flipper assemblies to allow ease of removal for maintenance/repairs.

 

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190824/7d1b6e35b8e58b0790196a36554c503d.jpg

 

 

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Brilliant idea with the molex connectors on the flippers. Great work mate. Can't wait to give it a whirl........[emoji1303]

 

sent from somewhere in the colony [emoji220]

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I'm not familiar with this era and it's hard to see from the pictures, but I'm not used to seeing wiring go direct to the EOS switch? Are both the whites soldered to the same tab of the EOS or something?

 

Most SS era machines run a normally closed Heavy duty EOS contact, that switches the transition from the high current power winding to low current hold, which puts both windings in series.

The cabinet switches are also heavy duty as they also switch the negative side of the initial flipper current.

 

Circuit probably explains it far better than I can!

 

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Yeah, i understand that, I'm just used to seeing the power and ground wire coming in to the coil and the EOS also being attached to the coil, so you end up with 2 wires on one of the coil lugs, rather than on the EOS.
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Yeah, i understand that, I'm just used to seeing the power and ground wire coming in to the coil and the EOS also being attached to the coil, so you end up with 2 wires on one of the coil lugs, rather than on the EOS.

 

Sorry mate didn’t mean to offend, Closeup of the wiring shows the white combined on the coil lug as you suggested.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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