Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Head to Head Battle Pinny

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by thegrunta666 View Post
    Yeah see if you can track it down, would be interested o what they did. The playfelds will pivot up at the ends from the centre ,so both ends will open up. That also helps if I put the display tower thingy in the centre.
    found it but my memory about it was incorrect. The issue he was looking at was the mitred joins and not the hinge.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...an-custom-game

    Click image for larger version

Name:	474460-i.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	34.3 KB
ID:	1810515

    Click image for larger version

Name:	475304.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	72.5 KB
ID:	1810516

    There is a 3 way also here -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/to...ay-jungle-lord
    Last edited by Koops; 4th December 2015, 08:46 AM.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by pocketmoney View Post
      Cool project, apart from losing the flat surface to rest your beer on why not replace the single piece of playfield glass with two pieces that join in the middle. That way the glass profile can better match the playfield angle like in traditional Pinball. Of course reflection angles might be a big issue if the room is brighter than the playfield. The glass could meet in the middle with a plastic joiner. You might get away with traditional lock down bars this way too.
      Just a thought.
      Yeah , have had a look at doing that, would make life a lot easier.....But there is an old version of this out there that is like that. However my highly skilled beer drinking design team and I have decided the flat glass is the better way to go. We did not like the channel that has to be run in the centre to support the glass. Also the more annoying problem of your beer sliding off the glass mid battle !

      Click image for larger version

Name:	head to head pinball.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	112.6 KB
ID:	1810527

      Comment


      • #18
        Battle Pinball, working out the electronics ....If trying to put together the machine playfield , timber work etc is a challenge, then you have to come up with the electronics to run the thing. As stated before I shall be using a combination of Picaxe chips and arduino's to do the works.
        To keep it simple..( now that's a slight understatement ) I shall break parts of the game play into thier own sections, with basically a dedicated processor chip to run them, with minimal inputs and outputs to the other processor chips. Today I have been drawing up what I need to make for the roll over targets and their outputs . The outputs will light the lamps under the target when hit ( simple ) Then when all targets are hit, the processor will fire off a function. ie Reverse the individual players flippers, disable the attack or save magnets, make the flippers misfire, all sorts of nasty things that will effect both players !

        I have attached the first draft of the circuit I will create, then I need to write the software on the Picaxe to make it all work, what fun !!!!!

        Click image for larger version

Name:	Roll Over Switch Schematic.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	115.7 KB
ID:	1810541

        Comment


        • #19
          Good onya thegrunta666 awesome project coming along nicely.
          Budgie

          Comment


          • #20
            Some circuit feedback if you want it. You might want to check the datasheets for BC547 current rating - not enough to drive a magnet, maybe have a look at logic level mosfets as the drive device. Also it's a bit hard to read but are you fusing the lamp drive (or is it a terminal designation?) and not the magnets? Need Vcc to the picaxe.

            What's the philosophy behind a mix of picaxe and arduino? To me arduino have better programability and with your distributed processing model you could use the serial coms nicely for keeping track of the scoring from all the different processing points.

            Great to see you documenting this - keep it up, it's a cool project.

            Comment


            • #21
              I agree with your suggestion to use arduino only but I hadn't thought of using serial coms for the scoring. I'll have a leonardo board for each section of the playfield and a Mega for scoring and display. Only because I'm used to using them.
              I guess it comes down to what you're more comfortable programming?



              Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
              Last edited by BIG Trev; 6th December 2015, 05:39 AM.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Fire_Power View Post
                Some circuit feedback if you want it. You might want to check the datasheets for BC547 current rating - not enough to drive a magnet, maybe have a look at logic level mosfets as the drive device. Also it's a bit hard to read but are you fusing the lamp drive (or is it a terminal designation?) and not the magnets? Need Vcc to the picaxe.

                What's the philosophy behind a mix of picaxe and arduino? To me arduino have better programability and with your distributed processing model you could use the serial coms nicely for keeping track of the scoring from all the different processing points.

                Great to see you documenting this - keep it up, it's a cool project.
                You are right the BC547 wont drive the magnets !!! It would fuse out very quickly. That's just a start for the circuit, I shall not drive devices directly off this board except for the lamps. The other outputs will be driving relays, so will probably us a BD139 transistor, these are a good one to use and dont go fizz easily. The final project will have LOTS of fusing ! I have watched as whole wiring looms have gone up due to one wire acting as a slow blow 20amp fuse !!!
                The use of the 2 types of processor are:
                1/ I have used Picaxe for years and am happy with the simplicity of "basic" language code. Also I have made some nice acid etched PCB's that i have made for numerous projects. These are very generic and can be used to do lots of applications.
                2/ Evolution !!!! It's evident that Picaxe will go the way of the Dodo, and Arduino and similar devices are the next step. So reluctantly I'm venture into learning C+ and evolving. Also the Arduino is perfect for the serial dot matrix displays I want in the project.

                Appreciate the feedback Fire_Power, all feedback is welcome !

                - - - Updated - - -

                So, here is the mock up of the end of the playfield. I think it works quite well and addresses the design issues I had.
                I'm still tossing up on where to place the scrolling displays. I do like them on the apron, but this will be an issue on the ball shooter side as the boards will sit into the space where the ball return will fire the ball !
                So, I'm looking at putting the static score displays for the red and blue teams on the left hand side of the apron plate. I will the incorporate the scrolling display in the flipper button cover, this puts the displays just under the playfield glass just up from the lock down bar. Also all the display hardware will fit under there easily. When you look at the picture, I have just placed the displays on the flipper cover to see if they will fit and look alight.
                The other important thing that this mock up does , is help determine the height the lockdown bar should be at ( 850mm ) to play the game comfortably ( Unless you are over 6ft !, but i'm not and this is my machine ).
                Oh never try to do a video when the dogs see a cat ! Also the missus pointed out that the dining table is not a work bench !!!! I pointed out that there is absolutely no "sign" in the house that say's that its not .....I shall be sleeping with afore mentioned dog's tonight
                https://youtu.be/EA6hoeXUzxk
                Click image for larger version

Name:	Above Playfield Up.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	106.8 KB
ID:	1810544Click image for larger version

Name:	Looking At Underside of front.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	136.6 KB
ID:	1810545Click image for larger version

Name:	Playfield View 2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	122.7 KB
ID:	1810546Click image for larger version

Name:	Playfield View 5.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	134.3 KB
ID:	1810547Click image for larger version

Name:	Side Playfield Up.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	1810548

                Comment


                • #23
                  You could also do a central "overhead" scoreboard like the marquees on the Alvin G machines, but more useful!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Yes that's also in the plan, it will show scores, messages and even thinking about a TFT screen each side with a camera aimed down on the playfield ( ebay $50 ! ) However I shall have to frame up some family photos to put on the wall !

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Project Update; Hi All, I have been working on the electrical schematics and design for the pinny. As you can see, I have decided not to put everything onto a napkin.....It all gets a bit tricky as the boards communicate by direct inputs and outputs, not serial comm's. So I have to think about this when designing the boards and allocating the inputs and outputs. This also impacts on how I write my software for the boards.... argh..... Now I know you will have a look and go " why is he using that transistor or resistors, they are the wrong type ! " and you would be right ! They are generic at this stage, and when I finalise the schematics , I will put in the appropriate devices, I dont want to put in all this effort to see a bigger fire works display than Sydney on New Years Eve ! ( no doubt I will release the Smoke Genie at some stage of this project ) So it's all going forward, but still has a long way to go ! Special thanks at this stage to [MENTION=11194]kress[/MENTION] for his feedback on my design and circuit query's.Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 11 Flipper Relays-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	87.1 KB
ID:	1811130Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 9 Magnet Button Board-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	73.0 KB
ID:	1811131Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 8 Side Lights Board-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	118.6 KB
ID:	1811132Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 7 Magent Targets Schematic-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	109.5 KB
ID:	1811133Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 5 Main Processor Schematic-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	84.4 KB
ID:	1811134Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 4 Main Processor Board-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	107.3 KB
ID:	1811135Click image for larger version

Name:	SHT 3 Topography-page-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	116.3 KB
ID:	1811136Click image for larger version

Name:	file-page1 2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	110.5 KB
ID:	1811137

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Battle Pinny Update. Question: When is a Relay not a Relay ? Ans: When its an Arc Welder !!!!!
                        I've had fun making a suitable power supply to run all the magnets and coils. good news is , I have succeeded, bad news is, maybe the power supply is a bit too good !. The old power supply would run the magnet OK off the relay contact. I tested the new power supply, I pressed the magnet activation switch, the magnet grabbed the ball, then WOULD'NT let it go ! My spider senses tingled and I ran across the shed to turn off the power to the pinny. ( really need to have that switch a bit closer )
                        I lifted up the playfield to find the relay melted But why? it worked fine before? So i checked all the wiring , all good...so I fired up the high voltage and checked it around the pinny, all good... So I pressed the magnet switch, it worked fine, then the relay energised, the magnet fired up, then I let the button go. Then I was rewarded with a might purdy Green Arc ! That was NOT going out ! So I ran again for the off switch.
                        Why is this so? The flyback diode on the coil is fine ...The answer is, that I have now got a very nice high power switch mode supply running the pinny coils. The air gap in the relay is not sufficient to open off the current to the magnet ( 9amps ) The supply then happily supply's more amps to overcome the air gap and keep the arc going !!!! This then nicely melts the relay in no time flat.
                        Solution is to make a nice solid state drive to drive the magnet of a 5VDC TTL signal. oh if you guys have any nice circuits for this, please let me know, or I will just copy the bally Williams circuit that does this... Hope you like the picture, a relay had to die for it !
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	Arc.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	98.4 KB
ID:	1811360

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          So now you've got the GI (green illumination) sorted... what's next..?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Hadn't spotted this thread before - will be watching with interest
                            The Barn - 2020 - 7th and 8th of August
                            SHPC - 2020 - Pukekohe

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by pocketscience View Post
                              So now you've got the GI (green illumination) sorted... what's next..?
                              Possibly the magical electrical smoke Genie trick........I'm sure that's to come

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by thegrunta666 View Post
                                Battle Pinny Update. Question: When is a Relay not a Relay ? Ans: When its an Arc Welder !!!!!
                                I've had fun making a suitable power supply to run all the magnets and coils. good news is , I have succeeded, bad news is, maybe the power supply is a bit too good !. The old power supply would run the magnet OK off the relay contact. I tested the new power supply, I pressed the magnet activation switch, the magnet grabbed the ball, then WOULD'NT let it go ! My spider senses tingled and I ran across the shed to turn off the power to the pinny. ( really need to have that switch a bit closer )
                                I lifted up the playfield to find the relay melted But why? it worked fine before? So i checked all the wiring , all good...so I fired up the high voltage and checked it around the pinny, all good... So I pressed the magnet switch, it worked fine, then the relay energised, the magnet fired up, then I let the button go. Then I was rewarded with a might purdy Green Arc ! That was NOT going out ! So I ran again for the off switch.
                                Why is this so? The flyback diode on the coil is fine ...The answer is, that I have now got a very nice high power switch mode supply running the pinny coils. The air gap in the relay is not sufficient to open off the current to the magnet ( 9amps ) The supply then happily supply's more amps to overcome the air gap and keep the arc going !!!! This then nicely melts the relay in no time flat.
                                Solution is to make a nice solid state drive to drive the magnet of a 5VDC TTL signal. oh if you guys have any nice circuits for this, please let me know, or I will just copy the bally Williams circuit that does this... Hope you like the picture, a relay had to die for it !
                                [ATTACH=CONFIG]88596[/ATTACH]
                                Ah yes...you can't switch a relay off with a dc level above 30 volts. AC only above this point to allow a zero crossing.
                                Pretty lights though..
                                fOr No rAIsOn

                                Comment

                                Users Viewing Topic: 0 members and 1 (guests)
                                Working...
                                X