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Gotlieb Funland

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  • looks good to me
    looking to buy gottlieb electro mechanical pinball machines from any era

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    • So basically you went with the lowest price in Melbourne and yours shocked you didn’t get the best job ? But now you’ve smeared their business name you’re happier?

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      • Originally posted by illawarra_steelers View Post
        looks good to me
        Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

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        • Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

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          • Because this restore has been so thorough and because the last lot of metal plating done turned out better (and cheaper) I can understand how you feel.
            I have cut a few more corners and saved dollars, but Funland is presented great. Better than original overall.

            Sent from my AGM A8 using Tapatalk

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            • a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.
              A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.
              To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.
              See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.
              Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?
              Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.
              Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.
              Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.
              But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.
              But wait, there's more.........

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Rich View Post
                a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.
                A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.
                To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.
                See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.
                Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?
                Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.
                Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.
                Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.
                But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.
                But wait, there's more.........
                Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

                Comment


                • Finally have the playfield off the rotisserie and started fitting the top and bottom apron pieces everything has either been polished up re-nickeled and powder coated, I even went to the trouble as explained in an earlier post to reproduce the manafactures certificate with the games correct serial number just to give it that bit more of the original look.
                  https://i.imgur.com/lS6yUTt.jpg
                  https://i.imgur.com/WAHt08y.jpg
                  Now the playfield back in place in the machine for the first time in over 12 months which is when I acquired the game in August last year, shooter lane guide indicator back in place and bottom apron back on.
                  https://i.imgur.com/nE3DC3q.jpg
                  https://i.imgur.com/GSm4dNx.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/kKNn4C4.jpg
                  https://i.imgur.com/IV04uAF.jpg


                  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                  Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

                  Comment


                  • Looks great

                    Sent from my AGM A8 using Tapatalk

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                    • Wow ... looking great . This game sure has been a labour of love and the results prove it

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                      • Looks nice well done


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        • Excellent job mate, well done. Looks amazing, so much better than the day you picked it out. What's your next project, or are you going to relax for a while?

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                          • Originally posted by Pinballer View Post
                            Excellent job mate, well done. Looks amazing, so much better than the day you picked it out. What's your next project, or are you going to relax for a while?
                            Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

                            Comment


                            • https://i.imgur.com/xkXITPM.jpg
                              https://i.imgur.com/YouuIEH.jpg
                              https://i.imgur.com/hvRBybo.jpg


                              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                              Putting out the feelers for my next early Gotlieb project

                              Comment


                              • The best part Rob is its a single player which is definitely my preference with EM's due to better game play .. imagine if it was 5 years ago .. cost of parts + postage from USA was much cheaper.


                                Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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