Williams A-Go-Go 1966

[Brad]

I thought I better put a placeholder in for my restore and for feedback, suggestions and help: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...ll-in-da-househttps://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...hlight=minipin

My big question is how do I match the colours when they're so faded?



Of course there is no key for the 2 locks on it so I cannot currently open it up.

I'm assuming I'll have to drill these out then replace?
Can you get original replacements for them?



Backglass is also very faded and in the centre a fair bit has come away. I'll have to replace this at some stage.

Can I treat with anything to stop it degrading anymore in the meantime?



Playfield, is to my untrained eye surprisingly good although one of the roll-overs? looks like it's lifted. Again not surprising for a 52 year old game thats been sitting idle for many years. I can take a closer look once I can get the glass off. The glass is filthy.









Unfortunately some clown cut the harness to the back-box, easily repaired but I'm not going near any of the electrics until way further down the restore path.

I've already sourced schematics for it so that's a start.



Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(

There's also a ball in the bottom shute



Cheers,

Brad

[vintage]

You can mylar the backglass and or krylon triple thick first


http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product...ze-clear-coat/

[Brk_oth]

Triple thick the backglass.

Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =(
There's also a ball in the bottom shute

The coin door on these are extra large, much larger than your normal coin door, as they were made for the large coin mechs which could sort 3 different coins.... I think you may have to try to restore it as finding a replacement would be like finding hens teeth.

Good luck with it, you have a big job ahead of you with all that cosmetic work.

[millsy56]

Blues used in my past Williams repaint may help.
http://pinballaustralia.com/missorestocabH.htm
http://pinballaustralia.com/paintmisso.htm
Maybe hammertone the coin door
http://pinballaustralia.com/bazrestoaproncoinH.htm
All lock barrels can be bought from Bunnings (cabinet hardware aisle)

[bingoman]

Looks like you got it from the tip Sorry couldn't help myself.Good luck with the resto.

[Brad]

Looks like you got it from the tip Sorry couldn't help myself.Good luck with the resto.

I'm honestly under no illusions about the state of it

Thanks for the tips guys, will be a lot of questions following on LOL

Brad

[wiredoug]

Drop down cabs need special legs. Did you get them? The front just 25 inch or so

[Brad]

Drop down cabs need special legs. Did you get them? The front just 25 inch or so

Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape

The outside are almost all surface rust

28" rear and 25" front

[wiredoug]

awesome theres a 200 set of legs there.. ( unobtanium) ... time to buy some vinegar

[ajfclark]

Yeah they came with them but holy hell they're in bad shape

They look better than the ones I have on Sky Jump. The worst started like this:


I tried all different things but the best result for least effort was evaporust:


Make a tube out of 90mm pvc that's slightly longer than the longest legs you'll ever do. Glue a fixed end cap on one end and a screw end cap on the other.

Remove the levellers and pop in 2 legs and something less than 5L of evaporust. Leave overnight. Check. Depending on temperature and the amount of rust, might take a couple of days. Possibly need to retap the threads.

I'd give the coin door a go in evaporust too.

24 hours later:


- - - Updated - - -

With the locks, if you really want to preserve the originals, it is easier to pick locks than people think. Double bitted it a bit of a PITA to learn on though. The blades that street sweepers drop everywhere make great improvised picks and torsion tools.

People say "Well what do you do once you've got the lock open? You still don't have a key". It's possible to pull all the pins from the lock once you've got the lock plug out of the machine so then you don't need any key, the lock just turns. I assume a locksmith would be able to make a key from the plug too.

[Autosteve]

Locks.....Flat screw driver with a square shaft.

Shifter on square shaft.

Insert screw drive tip in lock slot.

Gut against screw driver handle to hold in place and turn shifter down 90 degrees.

POP, your in and can recover all the parts except the barrel..

Takes about 5 seconds.

[Brad]

Wow that coin door came up really nice!

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll just use std barrel locks if you cant get originals. I won't bother with lock picking, as you've said what about keys.

Cheers,

Brad

[Brad]

So drilled the locks out today and found the original service packet inside along with a pack of fuses and a notebook with service dates on it and what they did. Service dates only go back to 1980 but very very cool!

Schematics, instructions, operator instruction, site instructions, coil instructions, spare game instruction cards, a myriad of score cards as apparently you can adjust it to about 10 different scoring methods. Also the remains of a rubber kit. I've taken closeup shots of everything in case someone is interested.



Brad

[illawarra_steelers]

cool, just saw this

game designer norm clark = winning. that guy was a legend designer.

seeing it has only one coin slot i would say she is originally from europe, probably a good bet one of tony turner's import as there were 3 (from memory) in one of his containers.

now - the legs, as doug said if you have the 25" for the front that is huge bonus as they are almost impossible to find. i would suggest evaporust then hammertone them, those williams legs come up looking awesome after that.

same goes for the door, they come up looking pretty cool with hammertone paint. the bolt heads will come up sweet putting them in a drill and hitting them with very fine wet and dry with some nifty.

front door decals are available from pinball rescue: http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

regarding the paint match, seriously i think too many people get too picky on being the perfect blue/red/green etc. if you can get a section around the 4cm square you can take the cab into bunnings (or the head with the guts/backglass out) and get them to paint match it. other than that, get colours close enough and go with that.

white base antique white.

nobody will ever look at the game and think, okay that blue is 1 shade too light/dark.

redoing that design will be easy. honestly wouldn't go with stencils, would go with tape - see my surf side resto.

the biggest pain will be joining up all those wires between the head and cab.

top rollover button is missing, either send me a pm with your postal address and i will send a new one or grab one when you are down here in a few months.

nothing that can't be saved and restored on this old girl.

look forward to watching the progress.

oh and welcome to the dark side

[ajfclark]

Sweet goodies!

In case my description of the dip tube I use for legs wasn't clear, here's a picture: