Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

T2 mylar removal done and dusted within 2 hours

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • T2 mylar removal done and dusted within 2 hours

    I've started a new thread so I can hopefully show the process for start to finish. The first set of photos show why I decided to do it. These belmishes just pissed me off for a long long time (years) until you guys introduced me to all these things you can do to a pinney.

    Because I'm a tinkerer and can't help picking at things I did the following. The security pass insert has been raised and figured the artwork would have lifted with it (no brainer!!). So I was very concerned 1. its gonna lift and 2. this decal is not easy to find (if not near impossible).

    So I picked at the mylar where it had lifted on the playfield and thought I'd see how easy it peeled. No crap, it peeled like a sticker. So I kept going, very slowly, a couple of fingers to steady the hand that's peeling and fingers on the other hand pressing on the playfield right next to where the mylar was peeling off. I hoped this would add a bit of stability to the artwork, decals and lessen the chance of lifting them. My eyes covering endless areas of the playfield as I progressed to spot any artwork lifting.

    So here are a couple of shots of this process. It was slow but basically no gum residue (a bonus). I removed probably 70% until I felt too much resistence for my liking. BTW I freehanded the mylar off the security pass insert without a problem.

    Now I figured I've probably used up all my luck with the freehand method, so now its time for the freeze. I can highly recommend SUPER COLD 134. It comes in 400g can, adjustable nozzle for flow strength and costs $17. I bought 2 cans and probably only use 20mg because of the small amount of mylar left to remove.

    The first pic shows how to freeze the mylar and lift a corner. Then grab the mylar and just put slight tension on it. Don't try to lift it off, the minute you feel any force, just hold it there and spray. The next shots (thanks to wife) are quick successions of the process. When the mylar frosts then tension will lift a fair whack of it off the playfield. Then regain tension again and spray until the piece totally lifts off

    Note if you notice any inserts becoming cloudy, get the hair dryer onto them and they'll clear up.

    The freeze process (no bull) took me 3-5 minutes, and I figure if I did all the mylar, probably 10 minutes. But all the glue residue is left on the playfield. No artwork removed. Removed the glue with shellite.

    Here is a couple of before and after of the 'security pass' insert dilema. Also the only casualty of the whole process and this was done during the freehand stage.

    Once gum removed (15 mins) I wanted to see if there was any shine so quickly spread a little novus 2 and buffed. Here is the result. I will try out my 'treasure cove' kit before putting the playfield back together.

    The first photo is the only one using a flash. I couldn't demo the shine using the flash. Check the reflection

    BTW I don't recommend the freehand method as the prefered method. I think I was lucky more than skillful, but I'll take any compliments on my 'mastery'

    Thanks for watchin'
    Attached Files
    Last edited by pinball god; 15th August 2009, 09:38 AM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

  • #2
    nice, playfield looks great. are you going to re mylar or just a few coats of wax?
    I hope when i die, my wife doesn't sell my pinball machines for what I told her I paid for them.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by shootar75 View Post
      nice, playfield looks great. are you going to re mylar or just a few coats of wax?
      Thanks mate, no mylar as it caused too much stress planning and taking it off. Don't need that again. I'll wax it. It doesn't get a whole lot of play (100-200 games/year)

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well.

        My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.
        I hope when i die, my wife doesn't sell my pinball machines for what I told her I paid for them.

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice work there....Nothing worse than shitty looking mylar.. Who stocks the Super Cold 134 ?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by scratcha View Post
            Nice work there....Nothing worse than shitty looking mylar.. Who stocks the Super Cold 134 ?
            Got it from rockby electronics in Clayton Vic renver rd to be precise. They sell the crc brand $25+ so this I think is good value. More in the can, -51c, zero residue and you can adjust the flow via nozzle

            Originally posted by shootar75 View Post
            thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well.

            My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.
            Glad to help
            Last edited by pinball god; 15th August 2009, 04:19 PM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

            Comment


            • #7
              All I can say is


              WOW!


              Thanks for the thread and for so many pics and effort
              Regards

              Dez

              DSB Electrical
              DSB Electrical Facebook
              VAPS
              Vector Monitor Repro Parts
              Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

              Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

              Comment


              • #8
                Completed 3 coats of wax, and re-assembly of the playfield (mini shop of rubbers & GI globes, various touch ups) today. The playfield came up like glass and the game plays lightning fast. The playfield colours are richer and more vibrant.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I removed all the mylar from my T2 the other night, I used heat since the supplier of my freeze spray sent me the wrong item (luckily i noticed before I sprayed too much "foaming cleaner" on the mylar) and I wanted to get started.

                  The hairdryer worked but it took ages (about 1.5 hours), my mylar is in pretty bad condition (I'll be putting a post up about the process with pictures soon) so it was continually breaking and flaking off. My playfield underneath isn't fantastic either but I'm hoping it will polish up nicely.

                  I noticed you removed the factory mylar from in front of the targets the cannon hits (aboev the HK, on the yellow/white inserts), I did the same and I'm thinking about replacing it since that's a pretty high impact area, are you going to do the same?

                  Unfortunately, due to the degradation of the mylar/diamond plate (or my inexperience) I had a couple of bits of paint lift off and there's even a slight hump on one of the bits where the paint lifted and there is also a section near the flippers which has worn to wood. I don't think I'm up for paint matching and re-surfacing so I intend on re-mylaring the whole thing once it's all clean to preserve the playfield as-is, I'm more a player than a collector so I'm only interested in having a clean, playable game.

                  One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

                  Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

                  Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.
                  WANTED: T2 Plastics Set, T2 Speaker Panel, T2 Cabinet Decals, T2 Ramp Entrance Plastics, hell, just sell me a mint T2 and save me some time.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Im very interested in seeing you pics, good stuff!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hmm so I all I need a bottle of R134a from work and away I go a freeze off my mylar

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Scratch2k View Post
                        One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

                        Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

                        Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.
                        Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.



                        I hope when i die, my wife doesn't sell my pinball machines for what I told her I paid for them.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by shootar75 View Post
                          Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.
                          I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.

                          I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight.

                          Pictures
                          In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it.
                          WANTED: T2 Plastics Set, T2 Speaker Panel, T2 Cabinet Decals, T2 Ramp Entrance Plastics, hell, just sell me a mint T2 and save me some time.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Scratch2k View Post
                            I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.
                            I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight..
                            Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue. Just a plastic scraper, you don't need to apply much pressure at all so no fear of damage, you won't hurt your playfield as it is diamond coated.

                            Originally posted by Scratch2k View Post
                            In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it..
                            Mate my mylar was a disgrace, but under it was perfect. Couple of coats of carnauba wax and she'll be shi i neee!
                            I hope when i die, my wife doesn't sell my pinball machines for what I told her I paid for them.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by shootar75 View Post
                              Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue.
                              Yeah I used heaps of it. Breaks down the glue really well. you just have to go sloooow



                              BEEP BEEP Richie! They ALL float down here. When your down here with us, you'll float too!

                              Comment

                              Users Viewing Topic: 0 members and 1 (guests)
                              Working...
                              X