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T2 mylar removal done and dusted within 2 hours


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I've started a new thread so I can hopefully show the process for start to finish. The first set of photos show why I decided to do it. These belmishes just pissed me off for a long long time (years) until you guys introduced me to all these things you can do to a pinney.

 

Because I'm a tinkerer and can't help picking at things I did the following. The security pass insert has been raised and figured the artwork would have lifted with it (no brainer!!). So I was very concerned 1. its gonna lift and 2. this decal is not easy to find (if not near impossible).

 

So I picked at the mylar where it had lifted on the playfield and thought I'd see how easy it peeled. No crap, it peeled like a sticker. So I kept going, very slowly, a couple of fingers to steady the hand that's peeling and fingers on the other hand pressing on the playfield right next to where the mylar was peeling off. I hoped this would add a bit of stability to the artwork, decals and lessen the chance of lifting them. My eyes covering endless areas of the playfield as I progressed to spot any artwork lifting.

 

So here are a couple of shots of this process. It was slow but basically no gum residue (a bonus). I removed probably 70% until I felt too much resistence for my liking. BTW I freehanded the mylar off the security pass insert without a problem.

 

Now I figured I've probably used up all my luck with the freehand method, so now its time for the freeze. I can highly recommend SUPER COLD 134. It comes in 400g can, adjustable nozzle for flow strength and costs $17. I bought 2 cans and probably only use 20mg because of the small amount of mylar left to remove.

 

The first pic shows how to freeze the mylar and lift a corner. Then grab the mylar and just put slight tension on it. Don't try to lift it off, the minute you feel any force, just hold it there and spray. The next shots (thanks to wife) are quick successions of the process. When the mylar frosts then tension will lift a fair whack of it off the playfield. Then regain tension again and spray until the piece totally lifts off

 

Note if you notice any inserts becoming cloudy, get the hair dryer onto them and they'll clear up.

 

The freeze process (no bull) took me 3-5 minutes, and I figure if I did all the mylar, probably 10 minutes. But all the glue residue is left on the playfield. No artwork removed. Removed the glue with shellite.

 

Here is a couple of before and after of the 'security pass' insert dilema. Also the only casualty of the whole process and this was done during the freehand stage.

 

Once gum removed (15 mins) I wanted to see if there was any shine so quickly spread a little novus 2 and buffed. Here is the result. I will try out my 'treasure cove' kit before putting the playfield back together.

 

The first photo is the only one using a flash. I couldn't demo the shine using the flash. Check the reflection

 

BTW I don't recommend the freehand method as the prefered method. I think I was lucky more than skillful, but I'll take any compliments on my 'mastery'

 

Thanks for watchin'

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Edited by pinball god
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nice, playfield looks great. are you going to re mylar or just a few coats of wax?

 

Thanks mate, no mylar as it caused too much stress planning and taking it off. Don't need that again. I'll wax it. It doesn't get a whole lot of play (100-200 games/year)

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thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well. :023:

 

My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.

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Nice work there:):)....Nothing worse than shitty looking mylar.. Who stocks the Super Cold 134 ?

 

Got it from rockby electronics in Clayton Vic renver rd to be precise. They sell the crc brand $25+ so this I think is good value. More in the can, -51c, zero residue and you can adjust the flow via nozzle

 

thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well. :023:

 

My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.

 

Glad to help

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  • 1 month later...

I removed all the mylar from my T2 the other night, I used heat since the supplier of my freeze spray sent me the wrong item (luckily i noticed before I sprayed too much "foaming cleaner" on the mylar) and I wanted to get started.

 

The hairdryer worked but it took ages (about 1.5 hours), my mylar is in pretty bad condition (I'll be putting a post up about the process with pictures soon) so it was continually breaking and flaking off. My playfield underneath isn't fantastic either but I'm hoping it will polish up nicely.

 

I noticed you removed the factory mylar from in front of the targets the cannon hits (aboev the HK, on the yellow/white inserts), I did the same and I'm thinking about replacing it since that's a pretty high impact area, are you going to do the same?

 

Unfortunately, due to the degradation of the mylar/diamond plate (or my inexperience) I had a couple of bits of paint lift off and there's even a slight hump on one of the bits where the paint lifted and there is also a section near the flippers which has worn to wood. I don't think I'm up for paint matching and re-surfacing so I intend on re-mylaring the whole thing once it's all clean to preserve the playfield as-is, I'm more a player than a collector so I'm only interested in having a clean, playable game.

 

One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

 

Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

 

Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.

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One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

 

Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

 

Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.

 

Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.

 

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww287/shootar75/T2013.jpg

 

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww287/shootar75/T2027.jpg

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Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.

 

I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.

 

I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight.

 

Pictures

 

In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it.

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I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.

I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight..

 

Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue. Just a plastic scraper, you don't need to apply much pressure at all so no fear of damage, you won't hurt your playfield as it is diamond coated.

 

In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it..

 

Mate my mylar was a disgrace, but under it was perfect. Couple of coats of carnauba wax and she'll be shi i neee!

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Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue.

 

Yeah I used heaps of it. Breaks down the glue really well. you just have to go sloooow

 

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/6559/desolve1ed0.jpg

 

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/5003/mylars1th8.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Nice thread,

 

I'm going to attempt some mylar removal on my T2 today, i'm pretty worried about it to be honest, but the mylar is so stuffed in some areas it just has to come off. I polished the mylar with novis, the game plays i'd say about 30 to 40% quicker, my machine playfield was extremely dirty... played for hours yesterday, got my top score of 188 million, now I can't stop thinking about what it might be like without this scratched up mylar so i bought some freeze spray stuff from dick smiths yesterday and think i'll have a crack at it today..

 

I know mine wont be coming off in 1 large piece though, or even a few large pieces, it's all cracked up with holes all over the shop. Finger crossed.

 

Sorry about the size of the pic.. I'll shrink it a bit later on.

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/IMG_2863.JPG

 

Cheers,

Snippy.

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Heys,

 

Well i've done about 10%, the area that's the real problem is where all the crazy cracking is. The mylar is coming off tiny chips at a time, I can't get a run on it. What a pain in the ass, no stopping now tho! :)

 

Anyone got any idea on any tricks when the mylar is cracked all over the place ?

 

Cheers,

Snippy.

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Heys,

 

Well i've done about 10%, the area that's the real problem is where all the crazy cracking is. The mylar is coming off tiny chips at a time, I can't get a run on it. What a pain in the ass, no stopping now tho! :)

 

Anyone got any idea on any tricks when the mylar is cracked all over the place ?

 

Cheers,

Snippy.

 

It's going to be a real pain, sorry.

 

But this might help?

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=29891

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It's going to be a real pain, sorry.

 

But this might help?

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=29891

 

Man,

 

So i saw put it out in the sun, which translated to heating it up... This lead me to getting my wifes hair dryer - you would not believe the difference it makes. That might of just saved me about 5 hours.

 

The freeze spray just made the cracked section brittle, it was great for the large uncracked sections though... With this hair drier I have been able to literally scrape off a lot of the crazy cracked areas with a plastic ipod opening tool (yeah sounds stupid I know) I'll post some pics soon.

 

Cheers!

Snippy

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Gday all,

 

It'd be fair to say.... I'm pretty happy with myself :) Took me *all* day though..

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3307.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3308.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3309.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3310.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3311.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3312.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3314.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3316.jpg

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3317.jpg

 

 

Cheers guys,

Snippy.

Edited by snippy
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Haven't looked at my thread for ages and thought it would be dead but you guys have done some amazing stuff. I thought I'd be able to brag as having the best t2 in Oz but after looking at these jobs I'm shutting my mouth lol. Great seeing others having a go

 

Oh btw been thinking about putting some Mylar near the 5 bank targets as a precaution. Anyone sourced a supplier?

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