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Restoring a Terminator 2

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  • Restoring a Terminator 2

    One of my recent 'restorations' was a Williams Terminator 2 machine. Specifically, it was a sample machine that came in from Germany in a container.

    The machine was absolutely filthy - I think someone had smoked a carton or three of Cigarettes around the machine daily.

    It was a unique restoration for me in one aspect, it was to be a 'low budget', functional restoration for several reasons.

    The reasons basically involved the fact that the machine had been played to death and spare parts were not so readily available - the playfield was different from production and had no diamondplate, the backbox was different than the production backbox, and the lower cabinet artwork was slightly different.

    The game had missing and damaged or broken parts. Metal brackets were welded or glued together; the skull was glued in place, the PCBs hacked, and some parts were missing.

    Some photographs of the game:

    Game as received from Kirk Weaver

    400 photos of the game in restoration

    I don't have the 'final' pictures online yet as I needed a few little parts to finish the restoration yet - but it's real close to being completely done.

    Just a couple of my favorite photos from the restoration

    Playfield underside after stripping playfield



    Playfield underside after nicotine removal



    And finally, a short list of differences you'd find on a sample or prototype T2 versus a regular production model:

    Copyright info on cab - does not exist on production game
    Head color - production game is black background, early games are blue
    Lamp boards - red instead of green
    Drop target drop solenoid and bracketry - proto and sample games had the solenoid that allows the CPU to drop the target added after the game was designed. Wiring was hacked into the game, and the bracketry was hand made
    Gun cover - no decals on sample games
    Right ramp has no protectors on sample games
    Metal piece over 5 white targets is flat, no bend in it to add support
    Wireform ramps had some slight modifications - some hand bends on earlier ramps
    No lower GI circuit in backbox insert - holes are routed differently and the string is completely missing.
    No skull protector - had to find one from a parted game
    Lockdown reciever had no insulation on handle, which could easily short out to coin door lamps and take out a GI string fuse
    Prop rod had no insulation on handle
    No drop target decal installed
    Different insert artwork
    Different playfield colors
    yellow start button instead of white (white unique to T2, Hurricane)
    Speaker grilles are W logo instead of red
    Autolaunch solenoid cover painted flat black instead of gloss
    Gun handle had a different plating on it
    No backboard decal
    Hand welded trigger in shooter handle
    Slightly different plastics around skull (maybe)
    No artwork on right ramp
    Last edited by johnwartjr; 24th August 2008, 03:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  • #2
    Thanks for the links, John. Should keep me busy for a while !

    We are the largest supplier of Pinball Ramps in Australia.
    Distributors for CPR, Pinball Inc, Planetary Pinball, Starship-Fantasy, Ball Baron, Pincore, Cliffy Protectors, Superbands
    http://http://www.rtbb.com.au/
    http://https://www.facebook.com/RideTheBoneyBeast

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    • #3
      Awesome work. Very professional!

      Comment


      • #4
        watched this restore on your RGP thread, great stuff mate
        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by johnwartjr View Post
          One of my recent 'restorations' was a Williams Terminator 2 machine. Specifically, it was a sample machine that came in from Germany in a container.

          The machine was absolutely filthy - I think someone had smoked a carton or three of Cigarettes around the machine daily.

          It was a unique restoration for me in one aspect, it was to be a 'low budget', functional restoration for several reasons.

          The reasons basically involved the fact that the machine had been played to death and spare parts were not so readily available - the playfield was different from production and had no diamondplate, the backbox was different than the production backbox, and the lower cabinet artwork was slightly different.

          The game had missing and damaged or broken parts. Metal brackets were welded or glued together; the skull was glued in place, the PCBs hacked, and some parts were missing.

          Some photographs of the game:

          Game as received from Kirk Weaver

          400 photos of the game in restoration

          I don't have the 'final' pictures online yet as I needed a few little parts to finish the restoration yet - but it's real close to being completely done.

          Just a couple of my favorite photos from the restoration

          Playfield underside after stripping playfield



          Playfield underside after nicotine removal



          And finally, a short list of differences you'd find on a sample or prototype T2 versus a regular production model:

          Copyright info on cab - does not exist on production game
          Head color - production game is black background, early games are blue
          Lamp boards - red instead of green
          Drop target drop solenoid and bracketry - proto and sample games had the solenoid that allows the CPU to drop the target added after the game was designed. Wiring was hacked into the game, and the bracketry was hand made
          Gun cover - no decals on sample games
          Right ramp has no protectors on sample games
          Metal piece over 5 white targets is flat, no bend in it to add support
          Wireform ramps had some slight modifications - some hand bends on earlier ramps
          No lower GI circuit in backbox insert - holes are routed differently and the string is completely missing.
          No skull protector - had to find one from a parted game
          Lockdown reciever had no insulation on handle, which could easily short out to coin door lamps and take out a GI string fuse
          Prop rod had no insulation on handle
          No drop target decal installed
          Different insert artwork
          Different playfield colors
          yellow start button instead of white (white unique to T2, Hurricane)
          Speaker grilles are W logo instead of red
          Autolaunch solenoid cover painted flat black instead of gloss
          Gun handle had a different plating on it
          No backboard decal
          Hand welded trigger in shooter handle
          Slightly different plastics around skull (maybe)
          No artwork on right ramp
          looks great John, did you sand it or use a chemical to clean it?

          PS do you have a non currupt version of the game rom for a 25th aniver star trek
          Australian Distributors for Planetary Pinball, Chicago Gaming, American Pinball.
          Your one Stop Shop For New Pinball & Arcade Games.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi John,
            What did you use to clean the bottom of the playfield?

            Regards Derek
            Always interested in buying Sega EM (1966-1976) arcade games, parts & paperwork

            Comment


            • #7
              Great work.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Ballypinball View Post
                looks great John, did you sand it or use a chemical to clean it?

                PS do you have a non currupt version of the game rom for a 25th aniver star trek
                80 grit followed by 120 grit gave the best results.

                Some folks say the Crazy Clean foaming cleaner sold by pinrestore.com does a good job on getting dirt out of the woodgrain. I have not tried this yet, but I do have a junk Indy 500 sample playfield here (flasher locked on and melted an insert) that I could try it on. I'm quite fond of the crazy clean, nothing else I've used will attack the nicotine on pins and just 'melt' it off, yet it doesn't attack your skin. Just not real excited about spraying liquid on the backside of a playfield when a dry method works.

                I will e-mail you the binary I have for ST 25th, CPU 2.01. I've used it and it's worked fine for me.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the links and sharing the info..

                  interested facts on the proto T2...

                  great work..
                  _____________________________________________

                  INTERESTED IN GOTTLIEB VOLCANO and STAR RACE. IF YOU CAN HELP, WELL ITS A BONUS.......

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    wow some great work in that one. what is 'dawn' - the stuff that the coils were soaked in (some sort of solvent?)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      nice work!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by stuba View Post
                        wow some great work in that one. what is 'dawn' - the stuff that the coils were soaked in (some sort of solvent?)
                        Beat me to it Stu...

                        I just looked at all 400 pictures and it is an amazing job you have done there John.

                        Question time;

                        There's a lot of soaking going on... What do you use (as Stu asked) ? I'm interested in the soaking done to the bent contacts.

                        What did you use to clean the boards ?
                        We are the largest supplier of Pinball Ramps in Australia.
                        Distributors for CPR, Pinball Inc, Planetary Pinball, Starship-Fantasy, Ball Baron, Pincore, Cliffy Protectors, Superbands
                        http://http://www.rtbb.com.au/
                        http://https://www.facebook.com/RideTheBoneyBeast

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm really impressed with the amount of effort you put in to documenting this with photos.. really paints a good picture of the effort that goes into a restore such as this. Well done
                          sigh... one for the archives eh vbulletin?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Great resto,photos will certainly help me put mine back together. Took me ten minutes to find the photo i need.

                            well done
                            Craig
                            Things are looking up,but Ram Controls still Suck.They were until i got shafted by the Predator.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by stuba View Post
                              wow some great work in that one. what is 'dawn' - the stuff that the coils were soaked in (some sort of solvent?)
                              Dawn is my girlfriend and it's her task to clean my pin parts

                              OK, not really, but it sounded good for a moment.

                              Dawn is a brand of dish soap in the US. It's famous for its commercials where they show cooking pans etc soaking in Dawn and it drives the grease away. It has some other rumored uses, including mechanics saying you can soak tools in it to remove grease from them and prevent rust. It's also useful if a car drips oil in your driveway, you can soak the oil up, then pour dawn on your driveway and scrub, comes nice and clean like new. And it won't harm the environment as it is fully biodegradable.

                              It's made and distributed in the US by Proctor and Gamble. There are numerous varieties they make, the only one I've used that is safe is the original variety, which is blue. Some of the varieties have bleach and other more harsh cleansers in them, which would remove the ink.

                              The particular brand to use was actually provided to me by another collector. Some cleaners will remove the ink from the coil wrappers, the dawn does not.

                              I mix it up pretty warm, and let the coils soak for 2-3 days, then clean them with a stiff bristled brush. Any of the flux near the solder tabs that won't come off can be removed with acetone - just try to keep it off the wrapper.

                              After they soak, I rinse under warm to hot water, then blow them out with the air compressor. Sometimes the labels come off, they can be reglued using rubber cement, then I wrap a couple rubber bands around them to hold the wrapper around the coil while the rubber cement dries.

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