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Corvette 1994 - Repair & Service Log

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  • Corvette 1994 - Repair & Service Log

    After being burnt out from pinball repair write ups and taking a bit of a break, I'm back with a new machine to cover. Corvette was released by Bally back in 1994 and had just over 5000 units made. The playfield is loaded with fun things that include 3 flippers, 3 ramps, a ball diverter, ball save kick back, a drag strip, pop bumpers, spinner, engine (that vibrates in play and interacts with the flipper buttons). Mix in good shots along with fun modes that include some great sounds and you've got yourself a fun game to play. I'm not a car person and have no interest in Corvette as a brand, but this is a fun game to play!

    When the game first arrived for its rebuild, it wouldn't boot and instead displayed the somewhat common "Check Fuses F114 and F115" error message. The owner told me the game had been booting, but then stopped one day after he moved it. Every other time I've hit this same error message, the fuses have been fine. This time was no exception as both fuses were removed, tested and found to be good. The game was switched back on and I observed the series of LED's on the board indicating the presence of power along this part of the circuit. There is a lot of information out there for this error and a nice diagram of the circuit here:
    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.ph...d_F115_message

    The board isn't getting its 12V. There's not a lot to it. Following this back along the board, I quickly spotted a repair that had been done sometime in the past.



    On even closer inspection I could see the jumper wire was no longer connected to the bridge leg. If you look closely, you can see the board trace that once existed is now gone (just below the BR1 printed text) which is what the jumper wire was put in place for.



    The board was removed and this fixed. While I had the board out, I went around the solder joints for each of the header pins and reflowed fresh solder across them. Several had cracked solder joints.



    Once I had the board back in the machine, the game now booted correctly to the attract mode. Next up I needed to address a few issues with the GI. While looking at the 12V issue above, I noticed a rather burnt GI connector. It was so crispy that the connector broke while being removed from the board (which I had to do for the 12V repair).



    Interestingly, the connector had wires from another game. It looks like it was cut off another machine and then joined up to the original GI wires in this one. My guess is the old connector burnt up and this one was quickly installed. Given its obvious fate, I'd say the header pins on the board were not replaced at the same time and the connector burnt out again.



    The old connector was removed. There were several unused additional wires that had been snipped off.



    There are two connectors for the GI and the second one also had visible burn marks. This one also needs to be replaced.



    When you replace the connectors, you need to do the header pins too. You may ask why not replace these while I had the board out looking at the 12V issue earlier - the reason for that was to remain focused on one problem at a time. I didn't need the GI plugged in to get the game booting so once I had resolved the boot issue, I felt confident to move on to the next issue.



    With the header pins and connectors replaced, the board was put back into the machine and tested. There was still one string of GI not working. This was eventually tracked back to a bad trace on the board. A small jumper wire was run between the bad trace.



    The board was put back into the machine (hopefully for the last time!) and now the GI was fully working. Next up - a flipper issue. The owner mentioned to me that the machine had a flipper issue where they wouldn't fire when the buttons were pressed and he had tracked it back to being the flipper board in the headbox by swapping in a spare flipper board. Swapping in the spare flipper board myself saw the flippers working again. But the spare board wasn't really spare since it's needed in another machine. So this one needs to be fixed. Manually moving the flippers when in switch test, I'd expect to see the EOS switches fire. They didn't. On the flipper board itself are a set of LM339 chips. These are used to translate switch activity and seemed likely to be the problem. Sadly they are not in sockets. The offending LM339 was removed and a new one installed with a socket. With the board back in the machine, the flippers were tested and now working correctly. The spare board could go back to it's rightful home too.



    With the key issues now resolved it was time to move onto some cleaning. Time to clean up the shooter rod.



    The tip was well worn, with the rubber half hanging off. This is at least better than machines where the rubber is completely missing and the shooter rod deformed from directly hitting a ball for who knows how many years.



    The rod itself has some crap built up on it, which didn't allow for a nice smooth launch action.



    The shooter assembly was disassembled and cleaned. A new barrel spring, coil sleeve and shooter tip were purchased to replace the old ones.



    The shooter rod assembly was rebuilt, ready to go back into the machine. It now has a nice smooth feel when launching the ball - just as it should be.



    The old flippers buttons were looking tired from years of use. A new set were purchased to give the old ones a well earned retirement.



    With some nice weather happening, I decided to make the most of it by looking at the coin door. This one isn't in terrible condition, but needs a freshen up.



    The coin door and its parts were resprayed with gloss black and then a clear.



    I recreated the speckle effect across the coin door too.



    Something I do to all games I work on is create custom coin slot inserts. I'm surprised at how many people overlook little things like this. After a design was settled on, I printed them up to install.



    While I was happy with how the coin inserts came up, I wanted to add something a little extra to the coin door to set it apart from other Corvette machines. I decided to make up a small decal to install on the small panel in the top left.



    The coin door was then reassembled and installed back into the machine.



    It's amazing how filthy the lamp boards often get in our games. Corvette is no different in this regard. All lamp boards were removed for cleaning. This was also a good opportunity to replace the non working globes I noticed during earlier testing.



    With a bit of attention, they clean up like new. Each globe was also cleaned and any that had been marked as non working were replaced.



    The inserts often attract the filth too, which isn't going to allow the same amount of light through.



    A soft cloth and some Nifit make light work of it through. I went through each insert below the playfield, giving each one a clean. Most are easy to clean. It's only the arrow or small inserts that present a challenge.



    While working my way through the non working insert lamps, I noticed one of the sockets on the lamp boards was broken.



    I have quite a few spare lamp boards from parts boxes I've purchased over the years, so replacing it was simple.



    Installed again, the lamps were lighting up nicely.



    During initial testing on the game I noticed that some of the GI bulbs were out. In some cases it's the globes, but in this case a wire had come loose. It sits right below the upper flipper assembly, so has probably been impacted with some heavy vibration over the years. The wire was stripped and soldered back into place.



    I like to spend some time cleaning the bulbs in the headbox to help get the translite looking bright and colourful. It's one of those quick wins that don't cost anything other than some time. These bulbs weren't too bad, but there was some dust and filth built up on the surface. Any bulbs that had been marked as not working were replaced.



    Each one was cleaned, ready to go back in to the game. This is the sort of thing that drives my Wife insane. I'll fuss over cleaning 100 tiny globes, but can't be bothered wiping the kitchen bench down



    While I had the translite off to clean the bulbs, now seemed like a good time to give it a clean also. It's amazing how much filth can attach itself to the rear side of the translite over time.



    Giving it a gentle wipe down with some Nifit on a soft cloth, the filth cleaned away with ease.



    The plastic lift channel at the base of the glass was cracked and needed to be replaced. A new piece was purchased and installed to get the backglass rebuilt.



    With the bulbs and translite all cleaned up, the colours now look much better when lit up.



    That's it for the first update. Next up i'll be going through the apron area, the flippers and sling shots. From there I'll continue my way up the playfield. Normally I like to break the machine down into sections, that way I don't have too many parts off at once. But on Corvette, there are so many ramps and rails on this playfield - including a drag strip - that I may have to take the plunge and remove a lot all at once. We'll see. Until next time!
    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

  • #2
    None of your pix show can't see em!
    Gemini2544's 4th Pinball meet Saturday 21/03/2020

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Gemini2544 View Post
      None of your pix show can't see em!
      They show fine for me.

      Anyone else having the issue?
      Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

      Comment


      • #4
        All good for me

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Jesder View Post
          They show fine for me.

          Anyone else having the issue?
          I can see em
          live between the flip and the tilt

          Comment


          • #6
            Quality post [MENTION=8457]Jesder[/MENTION]


            Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Jesder View Post
              They show fine for me.

              Anyone else having the issue?
              Fine here also
              you can always expect change in life..except from vending machines

              Comment


              • #8
                Got it, Ghostery was blocking them, Why this thread is a bit strange. All good now.
                Attached Files
                Gemini2544's 4th Pinball meet Saturday 21/03/2020

                Comment


                • #9
                  Looks good. Like seeing improvements by just using elbow grease.


                  Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've been busy over the last few weeks, working away on giving this lovely Corvette an overhaul. That means it's time to pause and give an update on the progress so far. In this update I'll be starting with the apron area and touring my up the playfield with pit stops at the flippers, slings, upper flipper and middle playfield. I'll try and squeeze in some work on the upper playfield area too. Time to get started. First up - the apron.



                    First step was to remove the apron and see what lay beneath. There is a thin layer of dust across the surface that's not easily visible in the photo. Overall though it's looking in good condition with minimal corrosion on the metal pieces.



                    The next step to was remove all the assemblies and parts from the apron area for cleaning. This includes the ball trough from below the playfield.



                    With everything removed, the playfield surface was cleaned. The loose filth was removed by vacuum first. Then the surface was cleaned with Nifti and finished with Novus 2 and then 1.



                    The first apron assembly to get a clean was the ball save kicker. A new coil sleeve and rubber grommet were purchased to replace the old ones. The rest of the parts were cleaned by hand or tumbler.



                    The ball trough was next up. First the trough was dismantled and each part cleaned. A new coil sleeve, rubber grommet and blue rubber disc were purchased to replace the old ones. Anything small enough for the tumbler went in for a clean while the larger metal pieces were cleaned by hand. A new star post and rubber ring were also purchased to replace the old ones.



                    Now that both the playfield and assemblies were cleaned, it was time to rebuild the apron area.



                    The apron itself was cleaned up and a new set of apron cards from pinballcards.com were printed up to install. The apron was installed back onto the playfield to complete the section.



                    My journey continues up the playfield, with the next stop being the flippers, slingshots and return lanes.



                    Something dropped on the playfield many years ago, shattering the glass and also damaging the left sling shot. One post is completely missing and the sling shot plastic badly broken on both corners. The metal rail that return the ball to the return lane was also damaged with one of its legs snapped. What ever hit it, hit hard. This is off for repair now. I'll need to source a new metal post for the star post, along with new sling shot plastics.



                    The sling shot and return lane parts were removed from the playfield for cleaning.



                    The sling shot assemblies were set aside for cleaning. The small metal parts from the sling shots went into the tumbler for cleaning. New coil sleeves were purchased to replace the old ones. All other parts were cleaned by hand.



                    The return lanes were up next for cleaning. All small metal parts went into the tumbler while the large ones were cleaned by hand. New rubbers and star posts were purchased, along with the missing metal post. A new set of sling shot plastics from a CPR set were purchased too. The other plastic pieces were cleaned with Nifti and finished with Novus.



                    The flippers were removed from the game and the assemblies cleaned. Again, all small metal parts went into the tumbler and the large ones cleaned by hand. New flipper bats, rubbers, bushings, plungers, sleeves and EOS switches were purchased.



                    The lower playfield area was cleaned and then the parts assembled back onto the game.



                    Finally some clear washers were installed on the sling shots along with the plastics.



                    Working on the apron and lower playfield areas was quite easy as you have immediate access to everything. But to start working on the middle and upper playfield sections, I need to start removing things. The first item to remove will be the large drag strip on the right side of the playfield. It comes away in two parts. The lamps make up the first part, and the strip with the cars is the second.



                    The left side has a small ramp that the ball save kicker sends the ball up and spits it out just above the upper flipper. It's actually a pretty neat little ramp and sets up a nice ramp shot. This will need to be removed next.



                    The drag strip was removed, which gave me access to some areas below. There are still two layers of ramps and a metal guide to get through before I have clear access to the playfield though. All these layers can make a game fun to play - but a real pain to work on!



                    The playfield in these areas is quite dirty, so it's good to strip this all back for a clean.



                    The left side is the same and I'm looking forward to wiping away that filth.



                    As I remove things I continue to find more and more bits of glass. Here some has found its way into one of the lamp sockets.



                    I finally had the middle section of the playfield stripped back, ready for cleaning.



                    A vacuum, Nifti, Novus 2 and Novus 1 work wonders and have the playfield looking clean again.



                    The first assembly from this section of the playfield up for a clean is the upper flipper. As with the other flippers, a new coil sleeve, stop, plunger, EOS switch, grommet, bat and rubber were purchased. The other parts were cleaned up and it's ready to go back into the game.



                    The large metal ramps and rails were cleaned by hand, while the smaller pieces went into the tumbler. A new star post was purchased, along with new sleeves and rubbers.



                    I wanted to remove two of the 3 ramps on the game. One of the opto switches has had its connector hacked so the wire is soldered directly to the pins on the female connector. I'll have to cut this for now so I can get the ramp off the playfield and return later to fix this up with new connectors.



                    Having two ramps removed now gives me clear access to most of the upper playfield. Lots of filth to clean up, especially around the orbit shot.



                    The kick assembly at the rear of the playfield was loose, which is due to a screw missing that would normally be holding the assembly tight against the rear panel. I should have a spare one to replace it with.



                    The metal rails and posts around the ramps were removed and set aside for cleaning.



                    The playfield area was cleaned up, removing all the filth and ball trails.



                    The kick assembly was cleaned up and set aside to go back into the machine shortly. A new coil sleeve and rubber grommet were purchased to replace the old ones.



                    It's interesting to see one pop bumper with no lamp inside it. There is a large red plastic piece which sits over the pop bumper cap, which would probably hide most of the light. So i'm guessing they didn't bother to add a socket for it.



                    The metal posts and rails were cleaned up ready to go back onto the playfield. As per the routine - small parts in to the tumbler and large parts cleaned by hand.



                    The playfield area around the ramps was rebuilt with new rubber sleeves installed. It's looking much better now!



                    At the top of the playfield are 3 lanes to spell ZT1. The red lane covers here are broken, with some parts of the side flap broken away.



                    The pop bumper area was stripped, ready for cleaning.



                    The playfield area around the pop bumper and lanes was cleaned up. As with before a combination of the vacuum cleaner, Nifit, Novus 2 and 1 are used. Now it's looking nice!



                    That's it for the second update. Normally I like to complete a section before finishing an update post, but this one is big enough already. Plus there is a 40 image limit per post here in AA and this one is sitting on 38. Not to worry as there are lots more photos to come for another post. Next up I'll get the final ramp off the playfield and remove the last of the upper playfield parts for cleaning. The pop bumpers will be rebuilt and the playfield put back together for testing.
                    Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Time for the final update on Corvette so I can get it back to its owner. At the end of the last update, I had removed everything from the pop bumper area and cleaned the playfield. The leaves just the upper left section of the playfield to strip and clean. This section is home to the engine. It's an interesting feature as the engine revs during game play by rocking left and right. It's used in a few different modes and also you can use the flipper buttons before launching the ball to have the game rev the engine. Beside the engine is also the 3 ball lock. It's normally covered by a large plastic engine piece, but I had removed that weeks ago so I get the rails and ramps off the playfield.



                      The cage around the engine is attached to a metal frame and is removed via 4 screws. You have to remove the cage to remove the ramp that makes up the rest of the engine area.



                      The ramp was removed next, along with the metal rails, posts and globes. The playfield is quite filthy but there is no wear or damage.



                      Now that everything had been removed from the playfield, I decided to clean it. The usual steps of Nifti, Novus 2 and Novus 1 made light work of it and the surface was looking clean again.



                      The upper playfield parts were cleaned next. New red posts, lane guides and rubbers were purchased. All small metal parts went through the tumbler while the large rails were cleaned by hand.



                      Only a few assemblies left on the playfield to deal with. First up for this update is the ramp diverter.



                      The spring on the ramp diverter arm was broken, so a new spring was purchased. To replace it, the roll pin needs to be tapped out just enough to get the old spring out and the new one on.



                      The assembly disassembled and cleaned. A new coil sleeve and bushing were purchased. It was now ready to go back into the game.



                      The VUK assembly from the pit stop was up next. This was disassembled and cleaned. A new grommet and coil sleeve were purchased to replace the old ones.



                      The plunger also needed to be replaced as the tip was cracking, with a section already broken away.



                      The small kicker from the ball lock was up next. The metal parts were cleaned by hand and a new grommet and coil sleeve were purchased to replace the old ones.





                      With all the assemblies and playfield parts out of the way, it was time to deal with the pop bumper assemblies. All metal parts went through the tumbler for cleaning. New bodies, caps, skirts, lamp socket, sleeves and yokes were purchased. I'll be putting LED's in the pop bumpers as they are more durable and it can be a real hassle to replace bulbs in pop bumpers that are covered by layers of ramps and rails. Interestingly, one of the pop bumpers does not have a lamp socket. This is by design as it's mostly covered by a large red plastic piece.



                      The playefield parts from the upper section of the playfield were installed back into the game. The pop bumper assemblies were also installed back into the game.



                      The engine cage needed a bit of a clean, so I wanted to look at that next.



                      The small metal parts went into the tumbler, while the large parts were cleaned by hand. New rubbers were sourced to replace the old ones.



                      Now we're getting down to the final parts for cleaning - the ramps. First up is the skid pad ramp that sits opposite the upper left flipper.



                      The ramp was disassembled and cleaned.



                      The large ramp was next up for cleaning. It too was disassembled and all parts cleaned.



                      The plastics from the upper playfield area were cleaned next with Novus 2 and 1.



                      The two plastic pieces from the middle playfield section were up next for cleaning.



                      The engine cage was installed back onto the playfield, along with the skit pad ramp.



                      Then the first metal guide (from the pit VUK) was installed, along with the engine ramp. Now it's starting to take shape.



                      I noticed at this point that the red pit stop lamp was not lighting. I began by checking the obvious things like the bulb, the socket and connector. All looked good. I decided to put the game into single lamp test mode and have just the pit lamp triggering. As I cycled through the lamp numbers, I noticed that in several cases there were 2 lamps lighting. That's certainly not right and means something is shorting. I disconnected the Pit lamp and that fixed the issue of multiple lamps triggering. The molex connector on the pit lamp looked fine and no chance of shorting there, so I disconnected it and removed the whole wire. Then I spotted it - right at the very edge where the heat shrink on the wires ended was a nice cut through 3 of the 4 wires.



                      I removed the lamp board and wire from the playfield to fix. There were 3 exposed wires - one of which was barely hanging on.



                      The wires were cut, stripped, soldered and covered with heat shrink. I also changed how the wires fed below the playfield to ensure they would no longer be wedged between the ramp and metal rail.



                      The race lamps were the last piece to be cleaned.



                      With that, the final pieces were installed back on to the playfield and the game was ready for testing.













                      The game has cleaned up very nicely. I also repainted the black around the headbox with gloss black to freshen it up as it was looking worn. A few test games were played and a couple of small issues were found. Some switches needed slight adjustments (mainly the left sling), but other then that, the game was playing nicely. I'll give the game some more testing over the next few days and if everything stays good - it's ready to go home.
                      Eschew the standard. Turn the paradigm upside down.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Always a pleasure Reading your posts and sometimes dropping in and playing these games before returning to owner.
                        Keep up the good work it's always appreciated.

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