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CABINET RESTORATION - TZ - to assist others


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I have taken a short break from my landscaping duties in the new house and just completed a Twilight Zone cabinet restore. As I have said before, there are many guys that do really nice resto work, and this thread is really to assist someone who is considering taking the step to have a go themselves. The following is my method, that I find works for me, but there are many other successful ways, from quick basic jobs to really high end mint jobs. I logged the times I worked on this job so you get an idea of how many hours go into restoring and re-decaling a cabinet. I just worked on it when I had the time over the last month, an hour here, 30 mins there, etc.

 

 

STEP 1 - TIMBER PREPARATION

 

Completely strip cabinet of all components including earth braid/staples. This cabinet was delivered to me stripped, except for earth braid and 1 x side rail. Instructions were to retain some of the original labels and the interior was to be all black. Remove artwork - this can be done several ways as some cabinets have printed artwork on timber and others have decals. TZ had decals, so I used a heat gun and scraper. Very effective, but they can also be removed with just a sander, effectively and quickly, depending on sander type and paper coarseness.

 

The left over residue adhesive requires removal and I did this with a small orbital sander with 60 grit. Then another sand with finishing sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit by hand. Once artwork is removed, I can now see the raw timber and it’s true condition. I use builders bog, PVA glue, clamps and timber screws to repair the cab to give it back its structural integrity and repair any damage, especially in the plywood that is so common with these 20-30 year old machines. This process can take a while as it’s just filling and sanding, filling and sanding, etc. This one was very good structurally and didn’t require a new base or it’s corners clamped. It did however need a few screws and glue in two of the corners - make sure you pre-drill a hole and countersink the screw heads well.

 

I also fill and sand many small brad nail holes (used during manufacture) inside the cab. This is just me and my OCD. I like the smooth look and feel, even inside the cabinet, but for most - unnecessary.

 

Underneath the cab, I fill any small holes in the edge of the plywood sides. This timber type is common for these small holes. I also use a quality gap filler and caulk the small area where the base meets the sides. Once again, not at all necessary as it’s the underneath of the machine but it’s the neat finish I am after, but many guys don't do it.

 

My last task before spraying is a final sand of the entire cabinet (inside and out) with 240 grit, then use the blower to get rid of any dust. This cab took me 9 hours just to complete the preparation, ready for priming/painting.

 

 

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STEP 2 - PAINTING

 

Once again, there are many ways for this to be done. Some guys just spray paint around the edges, some apply decals straight onto the old ones, some use just paint, some use a spray primer, etc, etc. I use my method as I feel my restorations are closer to high end, than average to good, and it’s just the finish I’m after. I spray the entire cab (including underneath) as I want the decals to adhere to a smooth and consistent surface of the fully dry enamel paint instead of just primer filler and/or timber. I mask up areas I have already painted to avoid overspray on the surfaces no decals are going. So again, this takes time. Personally I do the underneath first, then the inside, then the outside. Just do whatever works for you

 

I use a fast drying primer filler spray from SuperCheap Auto (2 generous coats). This helps to fill the fine grain lines in the plywood in preparation for the enamel spray paint. It also shows up any minor areas and imperfections that require more filling (similar to a painter applying undercoat to a surface). A very light sand with 1000 grit, then blower and wipe down with clean rag to remove any dust. I do this between the two coats also.

 

The paint I use is Dulux ‘Duramax’ high performance enamel. I have used other spray paints that all do the job, but I keep coming back to this Dulux type. I find the finish is just smoother and better overall but on the large flat areas, I recommend the Deluxe red nozzle that you can purchase separately at Bunnings.

 

I use ‘Satin’ for the outside and underneath the cab and ‘flat’ for inside the cab. On the headbox, I use ‘Satin’ all over. This stage took me 5 hours, so quicker than the prep at least.

 

 

(photographs will be posted)

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STEP 3 - DECAL APPLICATION

 

The paint on the cab MUST be fully cured and dry before this step is started. I usually wait at least 1-2 weeks, depending on climate/weather (I’m in Melbourne remember).

 

There are generally two methods of decal application: wet or dry. I know blokes that only use wet and swear buy it. I personally use dry and do it all at once with the help of the Mrs.

 

Trim any excess decal as working with the size you want to stick down is easier. Some titles require the decals to flow/line up to each other from side to front, so this may determine which side you start on. The TZ, I just started with the coin door/front. 'ALWAYS' fill the coin door hole with some timber as I can guarantee, you will most likely have issues if the hole is left open/vacant.

 

I use this exact method………….and yes, it is this easy after you do a few:

 

 

 

 

Make sure the timber is free of dust and any particles. I use isopropyl alcohol to wipe the surface down thoroughly just prior to decal application. I then use a felt edge plastic art card to swipe across the decal as the Mrs lowers the decal in a smooth ‘rolling’ method. DO NOT apply decals if kids running a muck near the work area or outside on a windy day as you could easily have dust and small particles getting stuck under your decal.

 

Using a metal straight edge and sharp scalpel, I trim the decals up ensuring I leave a substantial gap (2-3mm) from the edge of the cab to the decal. I have seen some people cut the decal too close to the edge and can have issues. I like a little gap so the edge of the decals don't catch anything if the cabinet is ever placed down without the legs on, etc. I then use a rubber art roller pressing quite hard at the same time as going over the entire decal with a hair dryer to ensure the adhesive is activated and decals stuck down well. Be careful not to overheat the decal causing shrinkage/damage. If you trim the decal up after the hair dryer, you will have edges residue long the edges where you trim, making that hard to remove or cover up.

 

I take to the corners with a ‘Poska’ paint pen to hide any minor imperfections or slight adhesive residue.

 

Time taken for decal application (including earth braid, original labels, base of cab mesh grills, etc.) was 3 hours.

 

 

 

 

SUMMARY

 

This cabinet was 98% stripped of components and in very good condition structurally. This is reflective of the 17 hours it took to complete. Some of my previous projects have required a lot more work and many more hours as it all depends on what the work includes.

 

Materials cost around $140 - $150 (spray paint, spray primer filler, sand paper, masking tape, filler/bog, scalpel blade, etc.). Using a paint gun will be more cost effective but I like using the cans.

 

I hope someone can get something from this. As stated above, there are many ways to skin a cat and this is what works for me and what I’m familiar and comfortable with. My first cabinet resto/re-decal (The Getaway) 4 years ago didn’t turn out that well, but as long as you learn from your mistakes and from the many resto threads here on AA, you’ll improve like I did.

 

So best of luck if you have a go yourself, and if advice required, there are many members here I’m sure will be happy to provide same, including me.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

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Outstanding "How To". I learnt a lot. This part of restoration I have never had a need to do but I'm sure I will one day. Thanks for shareing your knowledge.

 

Thanks heaps Steve. I haven't done a cab restore / re-decal since my own MM conversion 18 months ago and have since seen and heard a few AA members and pinheads ask about it. I really like the restoration side of the hobby, probably more than playing for some reason I cannot explain. Just hard trying to fit it in whilst so many other outstanding jobs to do at home.

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Top work Glen, thread has been featured and stickied.

Just a suggestion for future reference when uploading a stack of pics try using this method https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/t...ad#post2142439

It will save you having to embed all those pics :)

Thanks for contributing to the site!

 

Yes, will do. Since the site was upgraded with the new look, I haven't posted many pics. Will definitely read and address for next time. Cheers.

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  • Administrators

 

Yes, will do. Since the site was upgraded with the new look, I haven't posted many pics. Will definitely read and address for next time. Cheers.

 

This should make it easier for you and having an upgraded account you get unlimited attachment space.

Keep the pics coming :)

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Fantastic thread, thanks for taking the time to share. Curious, when you said that you cut the decal 2-3mm from the edge, I can understand on black edge decals but how would you cut the decals that have artwork all the way to the edge?
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Fantastic thread, thanks for taking the time to share. Curious, when you said that you cut the decal 2-3mm from the edge, I can understand on black edge decals but how would you cut the decals that have artwork all the way to the edge?

 

Thanks for the comments.

 

Yes good question. If the artwork (colour other than black) goes all the way to the edge I would just trim/cut the decal at about 2mm, like i did with my MM (see pics) as the lightening should line up pretty well (very rarely mm perfect). Lining up the artwork does depend on other parts of the decal lining up also, like the start button and shooter rod/launch button, etc that should take priority. If the artwork is black around the edges, then I would go closer to 3mm like I did on TZ as less noticeable with black. Either way, I like to leave a little space or gap between the edge of the cabinet and the trimmed decal so the decal is more protected from people brushing past or other items.

 

I have just measured the MM and it is 2mm. The TZ is 3mm. The standard factory artwork (decals) on TWD I have is 2-3mm also but not real even on every edge. Some edges the decal seems to have been cut closer to the edge than other edges, so a little inconsistent - understandable given mass produced in a factory.

 

It's up to you and personal choice. Some guys trim them really close to the edge, like 1mm and can do it really well.

 

 

 

 

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