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2020 UPDATED - Importing a container of pinball machines: My Experience

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  • Originally posted by maxi View Post

    Cheers Alex!

    I'm using the standard opaques kit. I considered wicked colours, however a lot of that range is transparent and I wanted to go for opaques to start with. Adhesion issues are definitely something I'm looking to avoid

    Max

    Great to see you having a crack at the playfield mate. Just remember to check your colours by drying them first. I dab a bit on some clear sheet, set with a heat gun to get the finished colour, check over the art to match and adjust to suit. Some colours stay the same others get darker.
    Createx can be used straight out of the bottle in an air brush. They are thin enough. When the bottle has been opened for a while you may then need to start thinning.

    I’ll just add that I’ve found the transparent colours can sometimes be good to give a tint without changing the colour all together.

    Comment


    • Another big day in the 'workshop'

      So.... painting.....

      I started with the easy stuff. I took light boards out, and shone a light from underneath to see how damaged the inserts were around the edges. I gave the edges of the inserts a slight sand with 1200 dry, and then touched them up with a fine brush and black acrylic paint.

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      After having tried out my airbrush yesterday, I thought I'd just give it a shot today on the playfield.
      Against popular opinion, I thought $70 for a roll of frisket contact film was a bit rich. It's supposed to be like a really low tack book covering. So, I went out and bought the cheapest contact paper I could find from officeworks. It had terrible reviews for not being sticky enough. Perfect.

      I went ahead and laid down small sections, then spent an hour or so cutting with a fine blade around the areas to be painted, then removing sections of the contact where I wanted the paint to adhere to the playfield.

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      I focussed on the yellow sun-rays that had the terrible ball-swirls.

      The yellow I had was a little bit too cool for rays of the sun, so I tried adding a drop of red to 50 drops of yellow, and it came out WAY too dark. I laid down a base of that anyway since I had it, and I could lay lighter paint over it later. I then decided to take Boof Head 's advice and compare my dried paint to the original colour.

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      I achieved this by adding pure yellow when my dark colour was almost depleted, letting just the residual red colour the sunburnt yellow I was going for. It looked good. I added a drop of white to add some shine.

      I misjudged how much paint was actually needed, and I had to refill a few times to get a good cover.

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      I then realised I didn't have a heat gun to set it. Dammit. It's going to have to be a hairdryer at point-blank range.

      I pulled up the masking and frisket VERY carefully, and got a pretty clean edge. I could clean it up with a straight edge and a scalpel blade afterward. NICE! That looks great.

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      Issues:

      - The paint is a little soft, so I'll let it cure for a while and maybe hit it with a heat gun later.
      - There is a small raised edge where the paint ends. I'm hoping I wont damage the finish by sanding this before a clear coat? Especially if the paint doesn't feel that hard.

      On the whole, I'm pretty happy. I've got a few more issues to face:

      - I'm not sure how to go about the orange rays. They are silk-screened tiny dots forming a gradient. Unless I design a decal and have it made, which could cause issues come clear coat, I won't be able to achieve that effect. So, I can either change the colour of the rays and do a solid gradient, make a decal, or I can leave it alone and be happy with what I've achieved. The latter is looking very attractive at the moment.

      - Indy's shirt needs help. Same little dots issues. I recall FLEX did a good job of his with a decal that he cut out, and it didn't react badly with the clear coat either.

      - Shooter lane will get a coat of paint, I tried using a rotary tool with a sanding bit to try to get the swirls out but they are DEEP.


      Otherwise, I'm looking forward to getting this playfield finished. This is going to be a repair and protect, not a full restore. A semi-restore if you like 😆



      --- Max
      Attached Files
      The name's Max; Bond Max

      Comment


      • Good work!
        Hit the paint with a heat gun if you’re happy with it. It will set the paint straight away. Definitely wet sand the feathering but be careful. It doesn’t take much to ruin you’re good work.

        I think the only problem with the contact might be a bit of residue left on the playfield. It might have a different type of adhesive. Not sure. I’ve never taken the risk.

        one other little hint. Get some posca paint pens for the key lines around inserts. Much easier and doesn’t leave brush strokes.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Boof Head View Post
          Good work!
          Hit the paint with a heat gun if you’re happy with it. It will set the paint straight away. Definitely wet sand the feathering but be careful. It doesn’t take much to ruin you’re good work.

          I think the only problem with the contact might be a bit of residue left on the playfield. It might have a different type of adhesive. Not sure. I’ve never taken the risk.

          one other little hint. Get some posca paint pens for the key lines around inserts. Much easier and doesn’t leave brush strokes.
          Life saver! Thanks for the posca tip.

          Max
          The name's Max; Bond Max

          Comment


          • I've only used the Pentel Paint marker in black (instead of using a texta) from Officeworks but I've just done some googling and this Posca brand seems even better. Thanks Boof Head
            http://www.aussiearcade.com.au/forum.../138-RAIL-WAYS

            Comment


            • IJ Restoration Progress

              Apologies for adding to this monstrous thread, I'll probably split off future restores to separate threads as this one will soon get too big.

              Anyway, made some more good progress on the IJ playfield.

              I took a punt and ordered an overlay from PinballCenter as I would need to use a decal to fix Dr. Jones' shirt, which had suffered some flipper drag and a nasty touch-up. I was very reluctant to use the overlay, so my plan was in fact to cut out what I needed and ditch the rest, for fear of an imprecise fit on the playfield. The following issues presented themselves:

              1. I'm not as good with a scalpel knife as I thought - there's no way I'll get accurate cuts if I try to salvage bits and pieces
              2. These insert decals had white outlines, so replacing one meant replacing all for continuity's sake
              3. The colour accuracy (especially the skin colour) on the decal was suboptimal, so I couldn't use bits and pieces of the decal without a distracting colour difference.
              4. The decal was thicker than I thought. I'm hoping the clear coat will level it out, however I wasn't planning for as thick of a coat as I will end up needing.

              All of this considered, I decided to take a punt and apply the decal whole, after sealing the playfield underneath with one coat of clear. Application was sweet and the fit was fine.

              I then used the Darksoul KBS Diamond Clear method to roll on 2 coats over the decal (I will likely apply two more coats), thinned to 20% with solvent thinner. I won't go on about method since it has been documented elsewhere but am happy to elaborate if anyone is interested. A couple of things that I found:

              - I had read that the clear coat can affect the decal, so I did a sample on a bit of decal off-cut before proceeding and didn't have any issues.
              - The coating didn't go on as evenly or as thick as I had expected, it even looked like it left gaps where it went on too thin, but I figure better to go slow.
              - I used a high density foam roller (100 or 160mm)
              - I thinned to 20% to avoid solvent boil/bubbles during curing
              - I applied hardly any pressure during rolling and tried not to over-roll

              And.... we are at a point where the playfield is starting to look more 'alive'. It's a hundred times better than what I began with so I've got to be happy with that. Two more coats of clear before playfield reassembly.

              Hopefully the next update will be a finished machine.

              Also picked up a Pin2DMD from Wiseold which will hopefully make this pop! Never had one before so looking forward to it.

              Decal applied on top of clear coat:
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              After 2 coats of KBS (still wet):

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              The name's Max; Bond Max

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