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I'm After Some Adjustable 5Volt Regulators

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  • #46
    While I see these regulators as a better alternative to using a standard linear regulator in a Bally/ Williams WPC, it is this post that I want to maintain and give others as much feedback as possible as these parts are tested. These regs have many early advantages. Adjustability and heat are two of them but the part that hasn't been tested yet is durability. Just how long will they last?.
    I do a lot of electronic testing and as always durability is always the hardest to test as it requires time and you can't speed that test up.
    I have kept data on what voltages I was getting when they were first installed and I can compare that to when the machines come back. I'm not bothering with heat range because heat isn't appearing to be an issue so any future heat, I would regard as a failure.
    Installation dates are in my data so I can see how long the part has been installed for as well as machine "time on" data stored in the WPC machine's own data after all, these machines aren't on all there life like they used to be.
    No good saying these parts were in a machine for 5 years but the machine was only ever on for 1000 hours of it for example.

    I'm no fan boy of anything really so this data is exactly as I see it now and into the future.
    If these parts fail, you will hear it.
    If they don't stop resets over time, you will hear it.
    If I detect any unforeseen problems, you will hear it.

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    • #47
      I’m after a 3A for my Dr Who.. Anyone have a extra floating about or interested in a bulk order? EDIT. Never mind. Didn’t realise postage was so reasonable. I’ve bought a couple more than I need if anyone needs one.
      Last edited by djc; 14 August 2020, 04:05 PM.

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      • #48
        Found a potencial problem with these regulators.
        If there is a partial short on the 5 volt line, these regualtors will not boot.
        This is exactly what I had today on a WPC. Put the regualtor in and it fires up straight away perfectly. Turn the machine off and then back on without letting it completely discharge, ( All LEDs go completely out), the machine wouldn't reboot. NO 5 volts. 12 volt is there on the regulator's input pin, ground is at the regulator but 0 volts on the output pin of the regulator. Let the machine completely discharge and it boots up straight away again.
        Took the 5 volts connectors off the Dot Display Control Board, Sound Board, Fliptronics Board, J116, 117, 118, the 5 volt fuse nad fuse holder and finally the CPU all one at a time trying to track down which board had a dodgy cap or something but couldn't locate anything wrong using this method.
        Looks like it's on the power driver board itself.
        Didn't have time or the parts to start replacing parts on the 5 volt line on the driver board so I put a linear regulator back in with the resistor hack and bingo, problem gone. Can now start the machine any time, no need to let it discharge first.
        I'm thinking there is a cap that is near dead and partial shorts on bootup unless it is completely dischanged and this is being detected by the electronic regulator as a short so it shutdowns down it's output to save itself.
        Shame I didn't have more time, i would have liked to have found exactly what the problem was so I could make a note of it on here but none the less I thought it worthy of mentioning this potencial shortcoming of these devices.

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        • #49
          Good to know, thx Steve. 5 of these just arrived for me, one is about to go into my Bally Viking to help power the 7 digit LED score displays.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by onetaste View Post
            Good to know, thx Steve. 5 of these just arrived for me, one is about to go into my Bally Viking to help power the 7 digit LED score displays.
            I don't think you'll have a problem with Viking. I ended up getting the day to track down the problem with this WPC machine when using one of these electronic regulators. The problem wasn't on the output, it was actually on the input.
            The output pin on the reg goes to 0 the moment you turn the power off however on this WPC board, the input pin, fed from the 12volt rectifed supply from bridge rectifier BR2 and goes through C5, a 15,000uf cap to smooth out the rectified supply. It is this cap, C5, that is continueing to supply voltage to the regulator's input pin until the cap discharges. When this input voltage drops to around 2.5volts, the regulator boots up fine but if it is higher, it won't.
            It's become apparient these regulators need to see virtually no voltage on startup at there input pin before they will allow any output after startup.
            I solved this problem by putting in a 12 volt 2 watt light bulb, (12 volt LED took to long), between the regulator input supply trace and the regulator ground trace. This is just a quick fix as the machine is being taken tomorrow morning and it is still on test but it does what i want it to do reliably, discharge the C5 cap in about a second when the power is switched off and now the machine can be turned off and on as quickly as you would expect.
            The ideal solution is a resistor across the + and - terminals on the bridge exactly like Bally SS did on two of the four rectifiers they use on there SS machines but this bulb will do for the time being.
            This is the WPC 5vDC regulation circuit.

            http://

            Pretty straight forward except it has a mistake or at least this 89 diagram doesn't quite line up with the version of the driver/ power board I am working on and there were 3 versions however, I think this is a printing error rather than a change done over the different models of this board.
            C9, the .33uf cap is actually wired between the output and ground, not the input and ground as drawn in on this diagram. Shame because it is the ideal location in the circuit to put in the part to dump the charged voltage that is causing the problem.
            I've got another WPC coming in tomorrow for a reg change and looking forward to seeing if this bootup problem is just a machine specific problem or common on all WPCs.

            By the way, the adjustment pot on the regulator allowed me to drop the 5vDC down as low as 4.85volts and as high a 5.25volts measured on the CPU board under full load. I set it at 5.10volts as this machine has a history of blanking out and had previously had a resistor added to the regulator hack done on it before and it was still failing every 2nd game.
            This machine with it's assorted hacks, , has been performing the factory burn in tests for several hours now without any issues. Played about 20 games through it as well. Wifes getting the shits hearing that burnin test banging away in the garage but she knows I only do that on machines that have been pissing me off with intermittent problems.

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            • #51
              I thought it best to show some pictures of this latest install. Removed the heatsink seeing as no heat is generated and soldered the regulator to the board and being soldered means no bolts required. Was looking such a sweet install till I had to add in the light bulb to bleed off the cap voltage.
              The bulb I soldered to the regulator input pin and the regulator ground.
              No permanent hacks so if some fanatic wants it stock again, unsolder the regulator and re-install a standard linear regulator and a heatsink. I'd like to replace the bulb with a resistor, again, soldered to the regulator pins but let's see if every WPC requires something to bleed off the voltage first.

              http://

              And powered up so light bulb is now on. Bulb is under the black heat shrink so no light glare and doesn't run hot and is just a 12volt 555 bulb, wires straightened and insulated and soldered to the regulator.

              http://

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              • #52
                Great idea soldering it straight to the board! Thx for all the tips and photos, this is extremely helpful. What resistance on the resistor will do the job? (Not required for my Viking of course but interested nonetheless.)

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by onetaste View Post
                  Great idea soldering it straight to the board! Thx for all the tips and photos, this is extremely helpful. What resistance on the resistor will do the job? (Not required for my Viking of course but interested nonetheless.)
                  Soldering definately makes for a neater install and the bolts are only used on a normal install because the linear regulator is steel. These electronic regulators are a PC board and have solder tabs around the bolt holes. Just put a little solder on these solder tabs, bit of solder on the board and heat the hole with your soldering iron and it's done. Do the other bolt hole and the pins and your finished.
                  Your 35 Bally board would look sweet without that big massive heatsink Bally used but that is up to you. It certainly isn't needed, these regulators generate no heat.

                  I haven't looked at the resistor value required yet because I'm not convinced it is going to be required on every WPC machine.

                  I was sort of hopeing someone would chime in if they had a similar problem on a WPC or any make or model they fitted these regs to and seeing as no has, It makes me think this may indeed be a one off.

                  Easy to check, boot the machine up, turn it off and then back on within about 10 seconds although this WPC was within about 2 minutes, the machine won't restart, no 5 volts.

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by Autosteve View Post
                    I thought it best to show some pictures of this latest install. Removed the heatsink seeing as no heat is generated and soldered the regulator to the board and being soldered means no bolts required. Was looking such a sweet install till I had to add in the light bulb to bleed off the cap voltage.
                    The bulb I soldered to the regulator input pin and the regulator ground.
                    No permanent hacks so if some fanatic wants it stock again, unsolder the regulator and re-install a standard linear regulator and a heatsink. I'd like to replace the bulb with a resistor, again, soldered to the regulator pins but let's see if every WPC requires something to bleed off the voltage first.

                    And powered up so light bulb is now on. Bulb is under the black heat shrink so no light glare and doesn't run hot and is just a 12volt 555 bulb, wires straightened and insulated and soldered to the regulator.
                    I think its important to re-emphasise for people who haven't read the previous pages that you are using the PSU7 in here not the PSU5 which doesn't suffer from those issues as it was designed as a direct LM323 replacement. I've used close to 30 of the PSU5's now with no issues and highly recommend them.
                    Personally I prefer leaving the heat sinks on invert the screws and use a nylon washer to protect the tracks on the earlier model WPC 89 driver boards. The later ones already have the screws and nuts inverted and the track runs well clear around the nut.

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