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  • #16
    Guys i need a bit of advice i purchased new picture classification inserts from the USA but the quality of the reproduction is crap (picture on far right).
    i have scanned and cleaned up the originals using photoshop but i am having trouble finding where or how to have them printed.
    They are on translucent white plastic about the same thickness as a business card.
    There is a flourescent light behind which lights them up.
    Any advice appreciated
    Example of one picture showing what i mean, the colour is washed out as i did not copy all the layers on the middle picture.
    Click image for larger version

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    • #17
      Ok no one can help with ideas on printing the plastic classifications so I'll move along, I started receiving the re chromed parts back from chroming started reassembling the buttons into the control panel really glad I block sanded the buttons as they really pop up against the new chrome.
      One of the pics shows the button before and after being block sanded and polished.
      Hope you enjoy the update
      Click image for larger version

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      • #18
        Originally posted by faza01 View Post
        Guys i need a bit of advice i purchased new picture classification inserts from the USA but the quality of the reproduction is crap (picture on far right).
        i have scanned and cleaned up the originals using photoshop but i am having trouble finding where or how to have them printed.
        They are on translucent white plastic about the same thickness as a business card.
        There is a flourescent light behind which lights them up.
        Any advice appreciated
        Example of one picture showing what i mean, the colour is washed out as i did not copy all the layers on the middle picture.
        [ATTACH=CONFIG]85262[/ATTACH]
        Would having them printed on translite plastic, like a pinball backglass work?
        I had one of these made up for me for a home made pokie I made. Looked good.
        Click image for larger version

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        • #19
          Originally posted by thegrunta666 View Post
          Would having them printed on translite plastic, like a pinball backglass work?
          I had one of these made up for me for a home made pokie I made. Looked good.
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]85430[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]85432[/ATTACH]
          Thanks mate yes I have thought about the translite route but this is more like a plastic business card no glass or Perspex cover , I may contact a few printers who print the plastic cards and see if they can do it.
          Cheers

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          • #20
            I had to pick the worst Amp/TSU for my first recap, the amp alone has about 80 capacitors.
            All the selenium rectifiers have also been replaced I was advised to replace the 6x4 rectifier with a couple of diodes and a resistor on the TSU as this seems to be a common failure that takes out the expensive power transformer.
            I know it's expensive as I had to replace mine.
            The TSU transformer primary and secondaries have had inline fuses added for extra protection.
            Powered unit up using a dim bulb Tester with no faults evident.
            I have not tested the amp yet but it is looking surprisingly promising so far.
            Man this was a bitch to recap never again
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              Jukes looking amazing keep up the good work


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              • #22
                Any airbrush artists out there??
                I need to have the two channel plastis signs painted and I am definitely not an artist
                I had an airbrush artist have a go but he had a lot of trouble obtaining a crisp line between the white and red/green and in the end he gave up.
                The white writing is in an engraved channel.
                I also have a spare plastic that can be used to practice on.
                I'm willing to pay a fair price for the work.
                It's pretty much right in your face on the jukebox so must be a good job.
                The photos show a black background which is behind the plastics.
                First picture is the plastics cleaned ready to go, the rest are of an overseas restoration just for ideas.
                More than happy to answer any questions or take any advice.
                Thanks
                John
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Great work.

                  The chrome and polished buttons make it really pop.

                  Gordo.

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                  • #24
                    I've spent the last few days swapping the 60hz gear and worm drive to a new 50 hz set.
                    Absolute bitch of a job but done now, I couldnt find any information on the Internet so will add a few pictures, will hopefully help others.
                    The brake cam needs to be removed to allow the gear shaft to move enough to allow the old gear (pins removed)to be removed and new gear and worm drive to be installed.
                    When removing the roll pin from the brake cam the shaft needs to be rotated at the end or the roll pin will bottom out on the casing.
                    The rest is pretty straight forward.
                    Cheers

                    - - - Updated - - -
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by faza01; 29th May 2016, 07:29 PM. Reason: Doubled up

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                    • #25
                      I remember this job on my Seeburg C. Not an easy task.

                      I bend the shaft slightly while removing the roller pins. It took days of gently tapping the shaft to get it straight.

                      Well done.

                      Gordo

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                      • #26
                        Ok it's been a while since the last update, I couldn't find anyone willing to paint the acrylic channel 1 and 2 signs, I had a airbrush artist try but gave up after about 8 hours.
                        I bought an airbrush and had a go myself took me a long time but I am pretty happy with the result.
                        Now the cabinet can be reassembled pretty quickly.
                        A few quick shots.


                        Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

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                        • #27
                          Thought i would spend a bit of time and update/ finish this restoration thread, machine is now finished and working great, record speed is a little slow i think due to the 50hz gear i bought from the USA.
                          if anyone has a Aussie original gear please let me know.
                          Arduino remote control is working fantastic it controls the volume up and down record reject and the fourth button on the fob i used to switch the amp to ipad/spotify input.
                          ill add a few photos of the restoration up to completion.
                          Mech was torn down and cleaned,clutch serviced lubricated and all limits set.
                          Carriage rollers were replaced as they had flat spots and were dragging not turning, mech cover was patched and repainted really happy with the colour match.
                          New needles installed, records and printed title strips installed and it was finished.
                          it was a long project and i was told on several occasions the 222 amp and reciever is one of the worst to recap, i have to agree.
                          its a credit to the vendors in the USA that a lot of spares both new and old are still readily available for these old machines.
                          hope you enjoy the finished pictures.
                          cheers
                          John
                          Attached Files

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by faza01 View Post
                            I had to pick the worst Amp/TSU for my first recap, the amp alone has about 80 capacitors.
                            All the selenium rectifiers have also been replaced I was advised to replace the 6x4 rectifier with a couple of diodes and a resistor on the TSU as this seems to be a common failure that takes out the expensive power transformer.
                            I know it's expensive as I had to replace mine.
                            The TSU transformer primary and secondaries have had inline fuses added for extra protection.
                            Powered unit up using a dim bulb Tester with no faults evident.
                            I have not tested the amp yet but it is looking surprisingly promising so far.
                            Man this was a bitch to recap never again
                            You broke my heart
                            but i see a lot of this
                            i have just sent another 222 amplifier back to Perth
                            the SHFA-1 amplifier is a walk in the park
                            well if you like a 40 hour walk
                            i scrap jukeboxes

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