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I've been considering 3d printer options....


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I've been considering 3d printer options.... for a while now :101:

 

 

I have been investigating and researching this a bit in the past few years. I have a friend whom does a bit of it, as well as CNC milling on a micro-mill.

 

I am a master fitter and machinist, currently training to program CNC machines.

 

Things have developed somewhat since I began researching... there is probably plenty of writing I could do here, but a few thoughts... considerations

 

-I think the dual head method is the way to go, using the PVA as soluble filler.

 

-Dual head vs Dual filament : Is dual filament really that messy?. Is Dual head result noticeably better?

 

-Heated/cooled enclosure? Heated bed? ... Both?

 

-Print volume?

 

-I would have thought the ramps/forming aspect may have a home here, given 3D printer could be used to print custom moulds?.

 

-What is going to be the most effective way to "sample" or "capture" the dimensions of an existing object? (and generating a 3d file)? M.S. k-nex?

 

 

Here are a couple of random references...

 

Jaycar ....

https://www.jaycar.com.au/pre-built-...inter/p/TL4090

 

Flashforge dual Head ...

https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/p...ge-creator-pro

 

PVA vids...

 

 

 

 

Scanning?

 

 

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i did alot of research last year into 3d printers using excel spreadsheets and the flashforge creator pro is the best printer for the pricepoint. Its a copy of the ultimaker if i remember right. Thats what i was going to buy but its heaps cheaper. Best price i could find was in South Australia from an education website.

It gets great reviews and has a large online community if you need help also.

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I'm going to give the Xbox 360 kinect scanner a go. It should be interesting.

For $17 It's worth a try. [emoji6]

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

I was considering a cheap ebay 3d scanner thats like $150, but I think I might do some more research on the Kinect scanner as well, now that I know you can use them.

cool idea

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are 3d printers any good at making useable small parts e.g like d-pads for example?
The finish isn't perfectly smooth and I wouldn't use parts made from PLA in a pinball machine where they're going to be hit by a ball but I'd say it would work for a D pad (I googled it [emoji16]).

 

 

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The finish isn't perfectly smooth and I wouldn't use parts made from PLA in a pinball machine where they're going to be hit by a ball but I'd say it would work for a D pad (I googled it [emoji16]).

 

 

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Thanks. I like the thought of making plastic parts but I have thought about cast moulding old school style. quite expensive from what I can tell. 3d printing good for models and parts that dont need strength from what i can tell. Is that what you think?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Yep

 

What's a d-pad?

 

:lol

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

*you could make a new opto interuptor for your judge dredd, or similar game... for example. That part is available though, but for unavailable parts has great potential...

 

up down left right on a controller

d = directional

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Thanks. I like the thought of making plastic parts but I have thought about cast moulding old school style. quite expensive from what I can tell. 3d printing good for models and parts that dont need strength from what i can tell. Is that what you think?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

up down left right on a controller

d = directional

 

It all depends on the material and how you slice the stl file. You can make a solid object from ABS with 100% infill which would be a lot stronger than a PLA item with 20% infill. That's one that has like an internal box section construction. See the pic below.

59a6e6104d71eac94f0a92afaa258fcc.jpg

 

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I have owned a 3D printer few a couple of years now (Rigidbot) but have only just installed dual heads BUT the precision of the print bed needs to be spot on for dual to work.My bed has a tiny warp so I can't get my two head setup to work.

 

Single head printing need precision but duel head need exact precision.It can be done but be aware it's a lot more work.

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Does your dual head setup use the common rail?

 

I understand there are different methods of arranging the operation of the two heads, mechanically... :unsure

 

Do two heads move in unison? or two heads moving independently?

 

Is it hard work trimming away the props using one material?

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On my rigidbot both head are next to each other and mounted on the same rail.This makes aligning the heads in the x and y easy but difficult to get them both level to the bed (z plane).

Removing support material can be difficult depending on the shape of the print but I always get a rougher surface left after removing the support.I just try amd make sure the piece is supported at a non important area.

There's a google page for the rigidbot if you want to see more.

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Just ordered the Prusa MK3

It will be my first 3d printer, though won't ship till Feb

(just under $1200 Aus) *Will probably also pre-order the 4 color printing add-on kit. It dose do 2 colour same layer printing without buy the kit, need to manually change the colour and it will keep going.

 

Red

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

** note previous model is reduced and has free shipping this weekend (and a 4 colour kit that can be bought)

 

I figured wait and get the latest one.

Red

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Just ordered the Prusa MK3

It will be my first 3d printer, though won't ship till Feb

(just under $1200 Aus) *Will probably also pre-order the 4 color printing add-on kit. It dose do 2 colour same layer printing without buy the kit, need to manually change the colour and it will keep going.

 

Red

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

** note previous model is reduced and has free shipping this weekend (and a 4 colour kit that can be bought)

 

I figured wait and get the latest one.

Red

Nice. What's the size of the print bed?

 

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On my rigidbot both head are next to each other and mounted on the same rail.This makes aligning the heads in the x and y easy but difficult to get them both level to the bed (z plane).

Removing support material can be difficult depending on the shape of the print but I always get a rougher surface left after removing the support.I just try amd make sure the piece is supported at a non important area.

There's a google page for the rigidbot if you want to see more.

 

This seems to be in line with my friends advice about what style of dual head printers to go for. The one he "wished he had gotten" was a dual head, but the two heads were fully independent, each with their own "home" Either End of the X rail. Dual feeders, heads, and independent control. This means they each have their own wiper and they print in the same coordinate position on the rail when they do. To correct the minor head height differences that will exist, the program uses an operator adjusted index (Z : height difference of head), this code gives the precision (maybe a program change could help out your dual head issues on the Z?). A bit like the lateral offset for the position difference of the heads.

 

Somehow the two heads either side avoids the lateral offset requirement? , both heads use the 0,0,0. coordinate in the program (just with the Z offset), zeroed in? . I guess this makes things simpler? . According to two of my good friends this type of dual head is the least headaches, and the way to go for efficiency... apparently? :lol

Edited by razorsedge
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Nice. What's the size of the print bed?

 

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lol, don't remember, around average...

https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/

Looked it up ( quote ) Great build volume – 11.025 cm3 (25 x 21 x 21 cm or 9,84 x 8,3 x 8,3 in)

(so slightly bigger than I believe 200mm commonly found on desk 3d printers)

 

 

Probably order this add on next pay

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/183-original-prusa-i3-mk3-multi-material-upgrade-kit.html

 

Red

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I received the Kinect 360 unit today from EB Games. A very professional transaction and a really well packed item.

But.

Why did no one tell me that I need a power supply with a USB pass through connector for the pc?[emoji38]

Oh well that's now on order.[emoji16]

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Nice looking printer

good build volume210mm x 297mm x 210mm (vs 25 x 21 x 21 cm iprusa MK3)

looks like it does very nice detailed prints.

 

 

My Prusa MK3 is still on order should ship later this month. I've also order the four colour upgrade kit (cost more than the last ALDI printer, lol)

That should ship in April. Looking forward to being part of the 3d printer club,

 

Red

ps order some filament from ink depot so will eventually be able to comment of the quality.

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  • 5 months later...
I haven't seen that one before.

 

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I watched a few more reviews and the print quality seems insane compared to other similar price printers.

 

What the hell ... *clicks buy*

 

 

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