Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×
IGNORED

Donkey Kong build


Recommended Posts

Finally making progress on my Donkey Kong Upright build after nearly 2 years of planning and waiting for my cabinet maker to get his butt into gear! Managed to get all the pieces CNC cut on black laminated mdf as I really hate sanding and painting!! I ended up using my Kreg jig with pocket hole screws to assemble the pieces after the cabinet maker failed to work out how to align camlocks on his machine. He also had issues with the files on classicarcadecabinets website so had to do a lot of modifying to suit his own machine. But anyway got there in the end. Still much easier than cutting all pieces by hand!

 

PG413jil.jpg

 

Started with the base:

 

cPAu5fDl.jpg

 

Attempted to use battons first, but that was too hard as pieces did not pull together nicely. Then remembered I had a Kregg Jig that should do the trick!

 

ryjWRqPl.jpg

 

Started with all the pieces that were flush joined at right angles such as the top and back top etc..

 

hYYWZFxl.jpg nQLBoCnl.jpg

 

Managed to get half the cab together and then needed some help. Massive thanks to @Crafty for coming around and being a human clamp for me! :)

 

ufXNJQol.jpg PrDI6sUl.jpg

 

Added some extra metal brackets just to be sure strong. I did glue everything as well as the pocket hole screws.

 

BnP6Olsl.jpg

 

Fitting the CP:

 

qTKVyE6l.jpg 3eKcWcrl.jpg

 

Already had the CP perspex cut and art done about a year ago so ready to assemble:

 

Cv1d30i.jpg Dd1Dh8F.jpg

 

Got a sign writer mate to wrap the cab in Blue Vinyl and apply the sideart. No painting for me! LOL

 

gfjv3s5.jpg z1Zbl0El.jpg

 

Installed a brand new repro Nintendo Coin door.

 

T5EEra2.jpg

 

Had to custom do the Art for the bezel and Marquee to fit exactly to the cab. Turns a couple of the cabinet makers pieces were about 4-5mm out for the front speaker panel so needed to adjust accordingly.

 

TOArGEPl.jpg

 

So nearly there. I mounted the screen today so just need to start on the wiring in the next week or so. Cab will be running a 19" 4:3 LCD with a 60in1 configured for Donkey Kong only.

 

iwzukwMl.jpg

 

Once this one is done I plan on doing more Nintendo cabs. Might do a Super Mario Bros one next with a PC running the NES version of SMB, but with all custom art..... Here's a sneek peek:

 

c9vYlJyl.jpg

cPAu5fD.thumb.jpg.1da05a77982369f4d3ce868c9e81c807.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks awesome man. Not interested in getting an original Donkey Kong board? Like from here https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=search&category=Board+sets

 

Thanks! Nah, don't really have any vested interested in "original" hardware. This thing will never be original as it is a home built machine. Just build these for fun. I will be installing a scan line generator though, just to help the LCD look a little more authentic!

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

awesome mate. Do you know how much the entire build will cost you?

 

Don't have an exact figure yet, but hoping to come in under $1500 for everything.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Here's a look at my custom full artwork set for the next cab. :)

 

UDoT2Ok.jpg

Edited by stuzza
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at wiring up the 60in1 this coming week. I have 2 coindoors on the machine. Does donkey kong use 2 coin mechs at all? ie. Do I wire up the coin mechs 1 and 2 to Coin1 and Coin2 on the jamma harness or will coin2 not be used on the 60in1 at all? Is coin2 only used for simultaneous 2 player games??
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at wiring up the 60in1 this coming week. I have 2 coindoors on the machine. Does donkey kong use 2 coin mechs at all? ie. Do I wire up the coin mechs 1 and 2 to Coin1 and Coin2 on the jamma harness or will coin2 not be used on the 60in1 at all? Is coin2 only used for simultaneous 2 player games??

 

I wired up both coin mechs to coin one and coin two, it's purely for two player mode for when you decide to play with a friend. Not sure with the 60-1 but I'm tipping it works the same

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Monitor mounted:

 

cvMFvL9l.jpg cSEr1fZl.jpg

 

DAxq11sl.jpg

 

 

LED Strip mounted:

 

HDRqJRTl.jpg

 

IEC Power socket mounted:

 

6rUgmzfl.jpg MYwNdwLl.jpg

 

Mounting the boards. Top is 60in1, middle is scan line generator, bottom is amp.

 

eU79Mkql.jpg

 

 

Anyone know what type of plug/connections I can use to connect wires to this Amp? Should have got one with screw in terminals. :(

 

DKgQGJJl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys! The cab is pretty much done, just waiting on some mesh to cover the back door hole.

 

Only one little issue I'm having is a bit of a hum noise from the speaker even when no sound playing? I tried swapping the amp but same problem. In my bartop I used a ground loop isolator to help with a similar issue but that was wired a bit different with a stereo amp and pc. Is a ground loop most likely the same issue or perhaps the speaker? Or is there a better way of wiring the amp/speakers? Currently have 12V to amp straight from power supply.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! The cab is pretty much done, just waiting on some mesh to cover the back door hole.

 

Only one little issue I'm having is a bit of a hum noise from the speaker even when no sound playing? I tried swapping the amp but same problem. In my bartop I used a ground loop isolator to help with a similar issue but that was wired a bit different with a stereo amp and pc. Is a ground loop most likely the same issue or perhaps the speaker? Or is there a better way of wiring the amp/speakers? Currently have 12V to amp straight from power supply.

 

Aren't you using a 60 in 1 in this cab?

 

Why do you need a separate amp?

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aren't you using a 60 in 1 in this cab?

 

Why do you need a separate amp?

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade

 

I was advised that a separate amp is better as it gives more boost and takes pressure of the 60in1 board. Also easier to turn a knob than the tiny controller on the 60in1.

 

Good point though, maybe I should try straight to speaker and see if any noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was advised that a separate amp is better as it gives more boost and takes pressure of the 60in1 board. Also easier to turn a knob than the tiny controller on the 60in1.

 

Good point though, maybe I should try straight to speaker and see if any noise.

 

I'm not sure who gave you that advise, but.....

 

The 60 in 1 is fine for what it is (we're talking about a $60 PCB after all). Just run the sound directly to the speaker and bypass the amp.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...