Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Taito Speed Race resto

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Taito Speed Race resto

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20180908184713.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	295.1 KB
ID:	1906551

    So here they are, my two latest boondoggles. Speed Race and Space Rider, they'll side up nicely next to my mame machine once I (hopefully) get them back in operating condition. For now the best thing I can say about them is that they are complete, without any obvious evidence of electrical carnage taking place inside. In fact the pinball machine looks surprisingly good inside for something that is a decade older than I am. It looks unmolested with a mint backglass, but the same can't be said for the Speed Race cabinet. It appears as if someone has added an aux power supply circuit for the CRT, although I'd be lying if I said I knew what these things are supposed to look like inside.

    I've decided to embark upon the restoration of the Taito first as it seems less daunting at this stage. This thing was sold to me as a 'dead screen' deal, but I'm not so sure that this is the case. When I power it up I get a dead screen, that familiar crt whine, a glowing neck and the time/score panels seem to be functioning. So nothing on the display and and no sound. One thing I did notice was when I turn off the power, a white dot appears in the middle of the CRT before fading out.

    I do intend spending the rest of the night combing out of this forum whatever chunks of wisdom I can find, but a little kick in the right direction would be much appreciated. Does this smell like a CRT fault or an issue in the logic somewhere?

  • #2
    Here's a scan I did of the original manual...

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...lVyTVZmMjJ1RGM
    Namco Starblade - Taito Cocktail 14" x 3, 20" x 2 - NZ SI PtII Upright - Chase HQ DX, Taito Top Speed - Taito Grand Champion - Taito Safari - LAI SI Head to Head Cocktail - SI Cocktail Clone x 2, Pong Clone x 3

    Comment


    • #3
      Sweeet. Thanks dude.

      That's just what I needed to sort out this rat's nest. The more I look, the more I find. Someone had been keeping this thing on life support, doing surgery with whatever was close by. I think I can see at least 3 'eras' of wiring here.

      Comment


      • #4
        Welcome to the world of arcade restoration

        Comment


        • #5
          Cheers mate.

          It'll make a nice change of pace from cars and bikes.... At least these things aren't covered in 'vintage' grease. And I get to learn all about digital electronics.

          I have kinda been putting it off. In the workshop, once things get beyond 'replace the blown cap', it's time to order a replacement. Somehow I don't think that's going to be a viable option here.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SeaJay View Post
            Cheers mate.

            It'll make a nice change of pace from cars and bikes.... At least these things aren't covered in 'vintage' grease. And I get to learn all about digital electronics.

            I have kinda been putting it off. In the workshop, once things get beyond 'replace the blown cap', it's time to order a replacement. Somehow I don't think that's going to be a viable option here.
            Mate, you have exactly the right attitude for this sort of stuff.
            There are many instances where you really have to find a ton of previous info / failures and fix it yourself.
            The Taito has plenty of support and info, the Atari, not so much.
            I applaud your enthusiasm and I'm sure there will be a ton of enthusiastic supporters on the forum here where any questions can be answered.
            I am not an arcade guy but I think your Taito problem may be a board issue rather than a display issue.
            Neck board lights and video decay dot indicates to me that it thinks it's doing what it should, however I am not an arcade guy.
            Ask me a pinball question, (not Atari )

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by raysco View Post
              I am not an arcade guy but I think your Taito problem may be a board issue rather than a display issue.
              Neck board lights and video decay dot indicates to me that it thinks it's doing what it should, however I am not an arcade guy.
              Ask me a pinball question, (not Atari )
              I'm inclined to agree. At this stage I'm hoping that it's an issue somewhere between the board and the CRT. Who knows, it's a mess in there, I might get lucky.

              Comment


              • #8
                More than likely a logic board issue, you can double check by connecting the video output from the PCB to any TV (CRT or LCD will work) via the AV input. I've never tried it but I'm guessing that you could conversely connect a console with AV output to the monitor input and see if it displays an image.
                Have you confirmed the board has +5v at the chips?
                Do you own a logic probe? It's essential if you plan to try to fix this board yourself but without a schematic or chip numbers it's not an easy task.
                I'm guessing that the PCB will have the writing on the chips sanded off, Taito did this in the early years to stop the game being copied. This makes it very difficult to know what's expected from the chip inputs and outputs.

                Below is the databook for Midway Wheels which is very close to Speed Race, there isn't a schematic available for Speed Race that I've been able to locate.
                Though not exactly the same, they share many similarities.

                https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...TJiRXR0djJVUVE
                Namco Starblade - Taito Cocktail 14" x 3, 20" x 2 - NZ SI PtII Upright - Chase HQ DX, Taito Top Speed - Taito Grand Champion - Taito Safari - LAI SI Head to Head Cocktail - SI Cocktail Clone x 2, Pong Clone x 3

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's a good place to start for sure. I'll see what I can work out in the morning. I haven't done any diagnostics aside from looking at it and plugging it in as yet. I'm still holding out hope that it could be something simple like a power supply issue, it looks like that whole side of things has been messed with.

                  I did notice the sanded chips when I pulled the main board, thought it was odd. A logic probe is on my shopping list for tomorrow and I'm bracing myself for the dive into the intricacies of digital stuff. I figure this has to be a good place to start.

                  Thanks for the data, I'll add it to my files. A schematic for this thing would be awesome, google found me one for the Atari in 0.000012 seconds....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Jaycar sell a Logic Probe kit for $15 or you can order one from Ebay for about $30+

                    https://www.jaycar.com.au/logic-probe-kit/p/KD6100

                    This is the type I use.

                    https://www.jpmsupply.com/Logic-Prob...00-p/80311.htm
                    Namco Starblade - Taito Cocktail 14" x 3, 20" x 2 - NZ SI PtII Upright - Chase HQ DX, Taito Top Speed - Taito Grand Champion - Taito Safari - LAI SI Head to Head Cocktail - SI Cocktail Clone x 2, Pong Clone x 3

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Good luck with both projects,

                      It sounds more like a board fault as previously mentioned i tested the last B&W monitor I worked on using the AV plug from a vhs player perfectly clear black and white porn I mean boobs I mean Care Bears oh who am I kidding it was porn


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Kaizen View Post
                        Jaycar sell a Logic Probe kit for $15 or you can order one from Ebay for about $30+

                        https://www.jaycar.com.au/logic-probe-kit/p/KD6100

                        This is the type I use.

                        https://www.jpmsupply.com/Logic-Prob...00-p/80311.htm
                        Thanks for the tip. I went down to Jaycar, picked up a kit for the logic probe and put it together. Also dragged my old oscilloscope and bench power supply, so I'm all set up.

                        I hooked up my VCR to the screen (Austin Powers if you were wondering), and after extensive fiddling with the contrast, V-hold, brightness and focus, I was rewarded with this.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20180909171427.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	131.2 KB
ID:	1841030

                        Too dim, not enough contrast and seriously lacking v-hold. I can clearly see a number of swollen caps on the CRT board, so with my total lack of knowledge of CRT circuitry I'm going to assume those things are related. Any chance somebody has already complied a list of capacitors for this screen?

                        More interestingly though, when I hook the feed from the main board I get this:
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20180909175031.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	172.7 KB
ID:	1841031

                        Still same erratic, dim picture... But I guess at least some of those little black chips are still functional.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          After some further knob twisting and bypassing a few decades worth of shitty wiring I now have this:

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20180909184545.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	212.7 KB
ID:	1841034

                          A half-way functional machine. Maybe 'half-way' is being generous. After powering up and tripping the coin circuit the game runs with a stable picture, I have sound and the throttle is working. The score counter works as you can see by my hi-score of 242. However the timer is not functioning, there is no 'player' sprite and the left line of the road is faint. But hey, it's progress.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            So this is interesting. Broken lead on the bypass cap that sits between pin 14 (vcc I guess?) on every chip in bank 7 and earth. Because of it's position I thought that I may have broken it while removing the board, but I replaced it into the machine and got same results. Somebody has also (poorly) replaced a 555 timer in bank 10, but no continuity issues there.


                            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG20180909230337.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	181.1 KB
ID:	1841036
                            Last edited by SeaJay; 10th September 2018, 12:09 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hey! Love your progress so far! Cool game. Before you do any work on the PCB may I say clean all the pcb connection pads, inc score pcb. Nice work so far!

                              Comment

                              Users Viewing Topic: 0 members and 1 (guests)
                              Working...
                              X