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20" LAI Cocktail Restore - Roxbury

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  • 20" LAI Cocktail Restore - Roxbury

    My next project will be a restore of this LAI 20" cab. I have received it as not-working.




    Front Panel has some water damage and is a bit damaged. Will need to be replaced. The wood panels with the control panels attached & speaker panels etc are horrible and will also need to be replaced.



    From the 2P side.



    Inside the cab from the front. I have noticed that both the Neutral and Earth wires use the same type and colour wires. Don't want to get those mixed up, will change this as part of the restore.



    Side, with vinyl lifting.



    Bootleg Time Pilot PCB.



    Solder on the PCB edge connector. Yuck.



    PCB has some corrosion damage. I think I will put the PCB to the side, and think about trying to fix that later. Ultimately something else will end up in this cab.

    I ran a few tests to determine what is working in the cab.

    - Power supply is getting 240V
    - Monitor is getting 110V
    - Power supply is not outputting anything

    I will test the PCB on my test rig later.



    The non-working power supply. Has been bashed a bit, will bin it.



    This at least has a good tube.



    No screenburn.



    Taking the control panels off, view with panel open.

    Made a quick rig to try a JAMMA pcb in the cab (as it is not JAMMA wired), with a working power supply to see what the tube picture is like. I only hooked up the minimum 5V, ground, red, blue, green, & sync to test.



    The picture is excellent! That was a surprise.



    View of the chassis.



    Another view of the chassis.

  • #2
    ya know, this unit isnt too bad

    a bit of TLC and it will come up nice
    rc forums looking for cabinet pc atx power supply for 12/5 volt for mame cabinet and turn it on
    if your new to electronics and

    Comment


    • #3


      Fired up the Time Pilot PCB in the cab. I was very surprised to see it work, only problem is the player and enemy sprites have been replaced with small circles. Maybe this won't be too much effort to fix?

      Comment


      • #4


        Starting to remove bits and pieces to start work.



        Top down view with tube removed.

        Comment


        • #5


          Top panels removed. Will make new ones to replace these.



          Front door to be replaced due to water bloat damage.



          Clean up for everything begins from here. Will be slow going for a while.

          Comment


          • #6
            Good photo's and write up

            You might want to think about replacing the monitor chassis, those old kanga deshi (spelling) chassis ( with the flyback in the metal box) will just go really quickly had two go in one week in the same type of cocktail. ( The flybacks go up in a cloud of smoke )
            So while you have everything out I would replace the monitor chassis as well, just to save time later, if budget permits.

            I have the exact same CT (used to have 2) Crazy Kong with original CP artwork, sold one and kept the good bits from one to make it a worker $80.00 all up for both miss those days.

            Look forward to the restore, have mine awaiting a new chassis from Joey when I can get around to it.

            Does yours have a power off/on button on the cab. both mine were straight to mains
            sigpic

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DKong View Post
              You might want to think about replacing the monitor chassis, those old kanga deshi (spelling) chassis ( with the flyback in the metal box) will just go really quickly had two go in one week in the same type of cocktail. ( The flybacks go up in a cloud of smoke )
              Yeah I was thinking about that, I thought I would do it for sure but then the picture came up so good! I don't think this is a Kaga Denshi chassis, although it has the same looking flyback in metal box. I might ask Jomac for his opinion.

              Originally posted by DKong View Post
              Does yours have a power off/on button on the cab. both mine were straight to mains
              No power on/off on this either.

              ***Edit***

              After consulting Jomac, this is a Kaga Denshi chassis, and I should replace it, as the Flyback will go up in flames spectacularly when it does.
              Last edited by Roxbury; 4th April 2010, 03:45 PM.

              Comment


              • #8


                Removing the grill revealed so much filth that it plugged up the whole space for airflow into the cab.

                The fan fell apart on removal. Probably explains why it was disconnected.



                Some metal parts screwed to the bench ready for rust & corrosion removal with a grinder brush.

                Comment


                • #9


                  By my calculations this game raked in about $18,000 in its life.



                  Wasn't sure if I was going to almost gut this cabinet, but I have now.

                  Comment


                  • #10


                    Removed this side of vinyl as it was lifting. Will replace with some chalkboard vinyl.



                    When I removed the vinyl, there was heaps of glue left on the chipboard. I figured this should be removed for better adhesion of the new vinyl. You can see the glue in the pic. The way I removed the glue was by:

                    - Applying general thinners with a rag to the glue, rubbing until the glue was removed.
                    - Cleaning up left over stickiness with methylated spirits.
                    - Giving the side a wash with warm soapy water to finish off.

                    This method worked well for this job.



                    All glue removed now.

                    Comment


                    • #11


                      In the previous picture where the glue was removed from the side, there are 4 screw holes on the bottom. These are not standard, and I wondered what they were for. There has been some type of repair to hold the side to the base. One of the screws put in ran into another screw as pictured. I removed this screw as it was not really needed. To assist putting on vinyl later, I will fill the holes.



                      I used Sellys Knead It to fill the holes. This was my first go with this stuff, it is really good.



                      Next time I use it I won't overfill too much - this stuff is tough, and is not like sanding off a bit of skim coat! The finish is really smooth.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Great worklog Rox, a great imsight so far into restoring a cocktail, which i would love to own one day soon. Keep it up mate, Love it!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by giova_sf_fan View Post
                          Great worklog Rox, a great imsight so far into restoring a cocktail, which i would love to own one day soon. Keep it up mate, Love it!!
                          Thanks! Progress will be a lot slower now - back to work after holidays

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            next time you fill holes with knead it, run paint scraper over the top to get rid of the excess

                            when it sets, it is as hard as concrete as you have discovered
                            rc forums looking for cabinet pc atx power supply for 12/5 volt for mame cabinet and turn it on
                            if your new to electronics and

                            Comment


                            • #15


                              Received a replacement Jomac chassis. I will probably get rid of the transformer in the cab, as these chassis have an inbuilt isolation transformer, and auto detect voltage input (~100 - 240V)



                              Time to put some vinyl on the side. I haven't done this before, so its the first time. Firstly I wiped the area over with a tack cloth to remove any dust & residue. I cut a square of vinyl that was a bit bigger for the area to apply then trim. I then scored the back of the paper, to expose about 8cm of vinyl sticker.



                              After researching different application methods for adhesive backed vinyl, for the size of the piece and the fact that I didn't need to line up any holes or edges I chose to go dry. I started out putting the top piece about 1cm over the top. Then used a squidgee to methodically push the vinyl onto the side, slowly ediging further to avoid air bubbles.



                              As I sqidgeed down further, I pulled the backing off the vinyl a bit further each time.



                              Now all vinyl attached. Time to trim back.



                              When using a sharp knife to trim bck the vinyl along a wooden edge it is easy to dig the knife into the wooden edge just a little along the way, meaning things may not be completely even.

                              To ensure a straight cut, I got a metal straight edge and clipped along the edge but had it slightly over by a mm or so. I then used a metal ruller to run along the edge, pushing firmly to push the straight edge to exact alignment. Using the sharp knife, I cut the vinyl against the metal straight edge, ending up with a perfectly straight exactly where needs to be. For the rounded corners, I carefully cut around them free hand.



                              The finished application - I am happy with the result. I will need to sort out some holes, that will be easy though.

                              Comment

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