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  • Cocktail Renovation

    Hey,

    This is my first arcade restoration project. I figure I will learn a lot as I progress. I got rather low grades in all the workshop units at school, and that was 15 years ago, so I know I am going to suck every time I have to do something practical. I did however do well at tech drawing and I work as a software developer for a CAD company, so I should be good at the design side of things. I will have to measure 8 times, and cut once, very, very slowly.

    I bought the cabinet on ebay. I think it is a taito, however the control panels have been removed, and new ones added that protrude from the side of the box. They are pretty ugly and a small chunk of the cabinet was removed to insert them.

    These are the general problems with the machine that need to be fixed:

    1. Legs are very rusty
    2. Glass is very scratched, and painted black on one side ( I want to replace it with a smoked clear pane of glass)
    3. Top wood pane is in pretty bad condition.
    4. Control panels are ugly, and need to be replaced.
    5. Case is non JAMMA
    6. Power supply is return 10.5V instead of 12 and 5.3V instead of 5. (its very old and menacing)


    The cabinet came with a game, Repulse, 1985 Sega. It was quite enjoyable, but I killed it with static 2 days ago. I feel like I have committed a crime against the preservation of antique gaming, but I don't think there was much I could do, I was very careful with it and kept it in its bubble wrap.

    These are the photos of my work so far:

    http://picasaweb.google.com/jesse.ch...eat=directlink

    I've derusted the legs with pretty amazing results. I've cut a new top pane, but the inner left edge is a bit wonky, so i will try to sand it down a bit with a Dremel tonight.

    I also painted the black bar on the bottom of the cabinet with a can of dulux I got from Bunnings. It turned out pretty good, so I will paint the entire metal undercarriage like that soon.
    Last edited by jstr; 12th April 2009, 12:08 PM. Reason: Auto Merged Double Post.

  • #2
    Originally posted by jstr View Post
    Hey,

    This is my first arcade restoration project. I figure I will learn a lot as I progress. I got rather low grades in all the workshop units at school, and that was 15 years ago, so I know I am going to suck every time I have to do something practical. I did however do well at tech drawing and I work as a software developer for a CAD company, so I should be good at the design
    1. Legs are very rusty
    2. Glass is very scratched, and painted black on one side ( I want to replace it with a smoked clear pane of glass)
    3. Top wood pane is in pretty bad condition.
    Welcome to reno land
    Just keep makin' progress, never stop, or it will die
    Regards

    Dez

    DSB Electrical
    DSB Electrical Facebook
    VAPS
    Vector Monitor Repro Parts
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    Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

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    • #3
      Thanks mate,

      if any one has any pointers then please mention them. There is a good chance I am doing something wrong just because I am unaware of the alternatives.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by jstr View Post
        Thanks mate,

        if any one has any pointers then please mention them. There is a good chance I am doing something wrong just because I am unaware of the alternatives.
        Use primer / surfacer if painting, I actually use car spray putty as well. Then I sand using 240Grit white sandpaper and then use satin black not gloss
        Regards

        Dez

        DSB Electrical
        DSB Electrical Facebook
        VAPS
        Vector Monitor Repro Parts
        Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

        Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

        Comment


        • #5
          I bought a can of gloss, and a can of metal primer (the gloss had metal primer in it , but I just wanted to make sure the job was done correctly).

          Whats the difference between satin and gloss? Is satin slightly less glossy?

          Comment


          • #6
            If you use gloss then use 400 grit paper as the scraches will be visible on shiny gloss

            Satin is flatter, and more forgiving, and looks like plastic, where as gloss is shiny and reflective and unforgiving
            Regards

            Dez

            DSB Electrical
            DSB Electrical Facebook
            VAPS
            Vector Monitor Repro Parts
            Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

            Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

            Comment


            • #7
              Making good progress, keep it up. The drawing/ plans in one photo look nice - much better than I can do.
              "Beer, it does a belly good!"

              Wanted: Pacman Cab Next Project: Skinny MAME Cab for Samfoot, thread soon, no really. I might even do one on my Pole Position cab!

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the encouragement. I just spent 30 minutes sanding the inner square strait, and my girlfriend just wants me to work on one corner. She is extremely retentive and has taken the role of QA.

                So far I haven't done anything severer planning, except just transfer a few drawings i scribbled down to send to friends over msn.

                I need to order glass for the top. I got a few quotes here and there. Does any one know what type of glass to use? Would smoked glass be appropriate?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Clear glass if the surface underneath is perfect, smoked glass if not.

                  I prefer clear myself

                  It's a preference thing too.
                  Regards

                  Dez

                  DSB Electrical
                  DSB Electrical Facebook
                  VAPS
                  Vector Monitor Repro Parts
                  Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

                  Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I see. I might go smoked because I am missing the skirting for the screen (or bezel or whatever, I new to all the terms).

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dezbaz View Post
                      If you use gloss then use 400 grit paper as the scraches will be visible on shiny gloss

                      Satin is flatter, and more forgiving, and looks like plastic, where as gloss is shiny and reflective and unforgiving
                      I also found with GLOSS you will need to leave the top for 72 hours++++ otherwise every finger print will show if the paint is not 100% fully dried.
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Thats interesting. I've been wondering what paint to use the paint the lid. Would that also be satin?

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                        • #13
                          Finally replaced the lid:

                          Old lid:

                          http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

                          new lid:

                          http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

                          photo doesn't look that good, Ill take a photo in the morning with better light.

                          Used iron on edging, 15 mm ply wood, and satin finish paint.

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                          • #14
                            Big difference good 1!
                            Regards

                            Dez

                            DSB Electrical
                            DSB Electrical Facebook
                            VAPS
                            Vector Monitor Repro Parts
                            Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

                            Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yesterday a big parcel arrived at work full of all the goodies I ordered from GameDude ( Thanks Dorian for the AA discount! ). It contained a 48 in 1 board, some zippy joysticks, a new set of buttons, a psu, a harness etc.

                              I spent several hours trying to get dc out of this new psu even tho i can see ac power going into it. Either I am doing something wrong (very likely) or its a doa. I then decided to hook everything back to my old psu. The PCB said no more than 5.5v and i was getting 5.23v unloaded, so there was no problem there.

                              Wiring the cabinet was a bit of a pain, and I haven't wired up p2 yet. I haven't got the right spanner to open the control panels and monitor has a different socket, so i just riped all the wires out at the old non-jamma harness and then matched stuff up via continuality tests.

                              Then I booted it up, and YAY, works fine. Initially the screen was centred to far to the right but i adjusted that now.

                              When I can get into the control panels I will wire it up properly, and also restrict the joystick to 4 way. Things are looking good for my old cocktail cab now

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