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Mr_Staypuft's cocktail (56K warning)

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  • Mr_Staypuft's cocktail (56K warning)

    Well,

    I've got something new for the gamesroom...




    A Hankin cocktail, with Namco Classics II + 2 caroma stools.
    Got it from a nice bloke in Sydney who didn't know too much about arcade stuff,
    but knew enough about what Hankins sell for. (d'oh )

    Of course, I've got some questions...

    1. "Player 1 start" doesn't work.
    Tested the switch (continuity mode) and the switch is fine.
    Obviously there's a problem in the cable/connections.

    Hmmm... is there a 'trick' to undoing these connectors???



    I tried pulling them apart with 2 sets of pliers & got nowhere.
    I didn't want to attack it too hard, as the wires seem pretty brittle.

    2. Is it possible for this sort of joystick to be adjusted to "4 way" mode? How?



    3. There was a loose red wire - that goes to a "loop" on the side of the monitor.
    I assume that's a degaussing thing. But I can't find where it plugs into...?




    4. There's an on/off switch in the cab, above the volume control.
    It doesn't seem to do anything. Ideas?



    5. The front lock is missing, and I'll have to drill out the coinbox lock.
    Are all these locks the same size? Or do I have to measure something?



    6. The main reason I bought this particular machine was that it had 2 players/1 side.
    Yes- I know it's not the original setup, but wifey & I wanted to play 1943 together.



    The thing is, the joysticks are remarkably close to the glass edge.
    Is that always the case with Hankin cocktails?
    There doesn't appear to be much room to mount them "further" away from the glass,
    which is a pity was you can't really hold the joystick normally.

    7. Here's 3 piccies of the internals.
    If anyone has any suggestions on what could be done to tidy it up,
    or can identify any of the important components... (eg those 2 strange connections to the "floor"?)
    that would be great.







    8. Finally, the glass has lots of fine scratches, and the CP is a mess.
    Is any way to "fill in" glass - like you do with a scratched CD?



    As for the CP, I read of people sandblasting & powder coating.
    Any tips/guidelines for someone who knows nothing about this stuff?
    I'd be looking to pay someone to do it - I have zero tools/experience with such things.

    Thanks for any/all help.

  • #2
    One thing at a time

    Yay!
    1. Do the connectors have little tabs in the slots that need to be depressed before pulling apart?
    2. 4 way, shit yeh, undo the two little screws closet to the stick centre and shift to the right (flower shape thingy)
    3. goes somewhere on the chassis (hick)
    4. test swtich, not an on off switch I think

    That'll do for a start
    "Beer, it does a belly good!"

    Wanted: Pacman Cab Next Project: Skinny MAME Cab for Samfoot, thread soon, no really. I might even do one on my Pole Position cab!

    Comment


    • #3
      the transformer is arlec i have one of them i like them a lot

      Comment


      • #4
        The red wire/plug (deguassing coil) should go behind the white resistor at the top left of photo 11, but the power plug to it is missing anyway.

        The strange connections on the floor , the blue and brown wires is the on/off switch.. if that's what you're referring to.
        EM score motors wanted: nonworking or working
        Sega Sub Roc 3D periscope mech. needed except motors.
        Wanted, Mitsubishi 60" RP (vs 6041) complete TV gun assembly. (R Proj TV/monitors and parts taken away).
        Take Five pinball machine PCB wanted.

        Comment


        • #5
          of course the switch doesnt do anything its not hooked up

          Comment


          • #6
            grats on getting your holy grail cab Gabe

            Comment


            • #7
              Wow, another working 3 piece Kaga!

              Don't worry about the degusse coil, just leave it unplugged

              Nice pick up Gabe, enjoy your new toy

              Regards,

              Johns-Arcade.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Foot View Post
                One thing at a time

                Yay!
                1. Do the connectors have little tabs in the slots that need to be depressed before pulling apart?
                2. 4 way, shit yeh, undo the two little screws closet to the stick centre and shift to the right (flower shape thingy)
                3. goes somewhere on the chassis (hick)
                4. test swtich, not an on off switch I think

                That'll do for a start
                Thanks Foot -
                1 + 2. Will give those ideas a go.

                Originally posted by arcadus View Post
                The strange connections on the floor , the blue and brown wires is the on/off switch.. if that's what you're referring to.
                Oh - so it is!
                The unit has it's legs set so "low" that the base of the cab is virtually touching the floor.
                That's why I hadn't realised there was an on/off switch there!

                Originally posted by Extra Ball View Post
                grats on getting your holy grail cab Gabe
                Thanks EB.
                Once I get it up & running, I'll have to challenge you to a game or 10.

                Originally posted by Johns-Arcade View Post
                Wow, another working 3 piece Kaga!

                Don't worry about the degusse coil, just leave it unplugged
                Thanks JA...
                and everyone for your quick responses.

                If anyone else can help with these 4 'noob Qs' that would be great:

                5. The front lock is missing, and I'll have to drill out the coinbox lock.
                Are all these locks the same size? Or do I have to measure something?

                6. The joysticks are remarkably close to the glass edge.
                Is that always the case with Hankin cocktails?
                There doesn't appear to be much room to mount them "further" away from the glass,
                which is a pity was you can't really hold the joystick normally.

                8. Finally, the glass has lots of fine scratches, and the CP is a mess.
                Is any way to "fill in" glass - like you do with a scratched CD?

                9. As for the CP, I read of people sandblasting & powder coating.
                Any tips/guidelines for someone who knows nothing about this stuff?
                I'd be looking to pay someone to do it - I have zero tools/experience with such things.

                I read of our fine W.A. friends doing a bit of this, but I assume sending a CP to WA
                would be a bit costly..?

                Comment


                • #9
                  the chassis if it is a kaga or nanao has a extra bit the degauss plugs into it should be next to the square white resistor ill upload a pic of mine later i have a gaga denshi kz20en

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    the locks on these are all the same size

                    cp to get powder coated just take it to a local powdercoater get a price for sandblasting and powder coating I paid 30 bucks for my 2 to get done
                    the joystick cant really be moved from where they are you will see when you take off the cp
                    nice looking cab to
                    The best action is wrist action!!!!!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mr_Staypuft View Post
                      5. The front lock is missing, and I'll have to drill out the coinbox lock.
                      Are all these locks the same size? Or do I have to measure something?

                      6. The joysticks are remarkably close to the glass edge.
                      Is that always the case with Hankin cocktails?
                      There doesn't appear to be much room to mount them "further" away from the glass,
                      which is a pity was you can't really hold the joystick normally.

                      8. Finally, the glass has lots of fine scratches, and the CP is a mess.
                      Is any way to "fill in" glass - like you do with a scratched CD?

                      9. As for the CP, I read of people sandblasting & powder coating.
                      Any tips/guidelines for someone who knows nothing about this stuff?
                      I'd be looking to pay someone to do it - I have zero tools/experience with such things.
                      5. measure the lock barrell and that will be the one you need. (if you don't have it a 25mm lock is pritty much standard)

                      6. deal with it

                      8. get a new glass top made - take the top to your glasier who will cut out a new one.

                      9. dismantle the cp and take it to a powder coater who will sand blast it and recoat it with nice powdercoat (hinge and all)

                      cheers

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Do not take it hinge and all most Hankins I have seen just pull the top of the cp off 8 bolts i think it is just take that in
                        the rest (the dimply metal)should come up with hot soapy water and a scourer
                        also use some of the spray on cooking oil on the wood grain on the side with a soft cloth and let me know what you think of the result(use it on mine and worked a treat)

                        EDIT ***** just lookd at your cp and you may want to take the whole thing in didnt see the scuffs on the bottom bit) make sure when you get it back the hinge still works dont let them powdercoat it solid
                        The best action is wrist action!!!!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks everyone

                          PS:
                          Originally posted by Davefjedi View Post
                          cp to get powder coated just take it to a local powdercoater
                          get a price for sandblasting and powder coating
                          I paid 30 bucks for my 2 to get done
                          $30! That's much better than I feared.

                          OK (noob hat on) what do I ask for?

                          I googled "powdercoating australia" and got this site:
                          http://www.duluxpowders.com.au
                          ....which has 9 million options.

                          Is there a particular "coat" or "colour" or "style" (that I should ask for)
                          ..that matches what we're trying to achieve?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My legs were black satin, they just stuck em in with the next run
                            "Beer, it does a belly good!"

                            Wanted: Pacman Cab Next Project: Skinny MAME Cab for Samfoot, thread soon, no really. I might even do one on my Pole Position cab!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Satin Black is the go Gabe (As pointed out by Foot). Besides, most powder coat places run satin black as a standard colour and asking for a particular colour will require a special order of the powder and will cost a lot more.

                              Regards,

                              Johns-Arcade.

                              Comment

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