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Taito Speed Race Resto (I hope)


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Today my first video arcade resto project arrived. Its a Taito Speed Race Deluxe (1975) which was purchased on Gumtree as non-working.

 

I first saw the machine at a factory clearance sale held i. Melbourne some years back. I was curious about the project as Speed Race holds many fond memories for me as a child pumping many coins into the basic racer as arcade games first appeared. At the time the owner wanted too much for it and I was a bit nervous about taking it on. When it came up again I was able to convince myself that this was meant to be and also able to negotiate a price that I was more comfortable losing if all turns to shit.

 

I don't have much electronics experience but am able to do basic electronic troubleshooting as I have a Pinball collection which often requires troubleshooting. I have restored several pinnies so I sort of know whats involved and look forward to the challenges of this game.​

 

Im hoping the members of this forum will help me along my journey to bring this baby back to life.

 

First steps were to remove the monitor, which although it glows, I suspect may have some issues.

 

Once that was removed I removed the power supply and tested.

 

Here are some photos as I received it.

 

Let the fun begin !

 

@wiredoug

@taito

@SeaJay

@Kaizen

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Edited by AxedBandit
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The picture with the multi-meter looks like that is your video and sound connectors running to the monitor bit hard to tell from the picture.

 

the extra plug looks like someone has tried to hack in a pc power supply at a guess to power the board.

looks like you might be missing a power supply board.

 

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The picture with the multi-meter looks like that is your video and sound connectors running to the monitor bit hard to tell from the picture.

 

the extra plug looks like someone has tried to hack in a pc power supply at a guess to power the board.

looks like you might be missing a power supply board.

 

Yep - Rookie Mistake and yes - looks like I am missing a power supply board.

 

Anyone have any idea on the board number or pinouts?

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As by your photos Axle show on the ID plate the machine was originally 100 volts input & now has green dymo tape with 240 volts I'd say the missing transformer was swapped out once. Also @taito on AA here was doing one up too,

 

All the ones we did in Australia had a local 240-100 volt trany put in them and it got mounted on the wooden board mounted originally in the middle of the floor. Yours had a similar setup looking at the dust mark on the floor but looks like the wooden board with it's original taito transformer and power supply were swapped out for a caged power supply something like a Peter Chow....(the black cage thing in your picture laying on it's side).

The caged power supply is what we changed to when the machines were convertered. It is the better way to go because it gets rid of the original crude power supply Taito originally used. The Peter Chow was a far better power supply and it run off 240 volt or 100 and not just 100 volts like the original Taito. You still needed the 240-100 volt trany because while the power supply could run directly off the 240 volt local power which we did, the monitor chassis and the title header fluro tube/ ballast still required 100 volts and they were powered off the 240-100 volt transformer.

 

 

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All the ones we did in Australia had a local 240-100 volt trany put in them and it got mounted on the wooden board mounted originally in the middle of the floor. Yours had a similar setup looking at the dust mark on the floor but looks like the wooden board with it's original taito transformer and power supply were swapped out for a caged power supply something like a Peter Chow....(the black cage thing in your picture laying on it's side).

The caged power supply is what we changed to when the machines were convertered. It is the better way to go because it gets rid of the original crude power supply Taito originally used. The Peter Chow was a far better power supply and it run off 240 volt or 100 and not just 100 volts like the original Taito. You still needed the 240-100 volt trany because while the power supply could run directly off the 240 volt local power which we did, the monitor chassis and the title header fluro tube/ ballast still required 100 volts and they were powered off the 240-100 volt transformer.

 

 

Thanks @Autosteve

 

Im not 100% sure about the original being replaced as the plugs look original (regardless that someone looks like they have done a hack).

 

The challenge for me is by replacing the power supply I have no idea what voltages each of the pins needs and without any schematics i'm only going to be able to trace wires and guess the required voltage.

 

Do you have any idea on the type of Peter Chou trannie they would have used?

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This picture shows two plugs. The one with the stick on letter is original Taito. Any other plugs used in the base of the machine I would regard as non standard. There should be a different style but still Taito used around the monitor but they should still have the same style stickers on them.

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/filedata/fetch?id=2213454&d=1623040529

 

As for Peter Chow arcade power supplys, ( not transformers), I don't think they still go under that name and I'm not sure whether that game required the negative voltages....-5 and -12vDC. Look at the voltages on the existing power supply and it's wires. Taito use different wire colours for different voltages so you should be fine to trace what each voltage is.

 

The voltages you will require are 5vDC, 12vDC but you may require -5vDC and -12vDC as well. Not real sure about that. See if these terminals are on the existing power supply or if they are used.

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Hi, there is a manual with wiring diagram available for the standard version which is probably very similar:

 

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/T/Tato%20Speed%20Race%20Manual%20SP070029.pdf

 

This might help you to identify some of the wiring, power connections to the game PCB etc.

 

Regards, John

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Hi, there is a manual with wiring diagram available for the standard version which is probably very similar:

 

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/T/Tato%20Speed%20Race%20Manual%20SP070029.pdf

 

This might help you to identify some of the wiring, power connections to the game PCB etc.

 

Regards, John

 

Thanks John

 

The Deluxe version of this game is very different from the original. I think you are right that the wire colors in this manual may be a guide but the wiring is completely different.

 

Thanks

 

Axel

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This picture shows two plugs. The one with the stick on letter is original Taito. Any other plugs used in the base of the machine I would regard as non standard. There should be a different style but still Taito used around the monitor but they should still have the same style stickers on them.

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/filedata/fetch?id=2213454&d=1623040529

 

As for Peter Chow arcade power supplys, ( not transformers), I don't think they still go under that name and I'm not sure whether that game required the negative voltages....-5 and -12vDC. Look at the voltages on the existing power supply and it's wires. Taito use different wire colours for different voltages so you should be fine to trace what each voltage is.

 

The voltages you will require are 5vDC, 12vDC but you may require -5vDC and -12vDC as well. Not real sure about that. See if these terminals are on the existing power supply or if they are used.

 

Thanks again @Autosteve The original transformer in the cabinet drives 100V for the monitor and I am assuming a fluro light behind the marquee as well as outputting 9V at 5A and 9V / 17V at 3A - I assume to drive the power supply.

 

20210610_091326.thumb.jpg.f0b47e5c804d17d215d5dd1176a1d21e.jpg ​​​​​​​

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Axle some of these earlier PCB's required a +12vdc, +5vdc & a -5vdc. Can't say if Speed race did but you'll want to be sure. Also the Tranny outputs after being rectified will be lower if their DC measurements.
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I have done some basic diagraming to hopefully provide a schematic wiring diagram for my machine.

 

Plug B is the power input plug.

 

Now for the million dollar question - What wire feed what voltages to the board?

 

1790221098_SpeedRace1Master(1).thumb.jpg.fb0185a1923a7857d97c0a771399ff33.jpg

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Hi, the safest way to be sure is to double check the game PCB and confirm which edge connector pins go to the power input pins on the logic ICs

 

comparing your drawing with your photo of the game PCB it looks like pins 1,2 and 3 on the component side of the PCB edge connector are ground (black wires)

 

and I suspect +5v is the red wire which connects to pins 6,7,9 and 10 on the solder side of the PCB edge connector, with pin 8 being the keyslot

 

So if you use a meter (or even visually looking at the PCB tracks) you could check if these edge connector pins go to the Vcc (+5V) and ground pins on the logic ICs

 

- find a datasheet online for any of the logic ICs on the board to help identify the correct pins if that helps, most commonly for say a 16 pin IC +5 would be pin 16 ( top right pin, with the notch being the top) and ground would be pin 8 being the bottom left pin, diagonally opposite. A small dot indent next to the notch (top left) indicates pin 1.

 

If those two wires are confirmed as +5 and ground then I would suspect the orange wires on Pins 9 and 10 on the component side of the edge connector may be +12V but would double check where these connect to on the game PCB and steering wheel just to confirm. Most logic circuits without memory or microprocessor don't need +12V but this could be used to power the analog part (steering) or an audio amplifier on the game PCB or may be used for a 12V indicator light on the control panel.

 

If there was prior modification to the power wiring the 3 pin Molex style connector may have been used so the game could be powered by an off the shelf arcade type power supply with orange, red and black being +12, +5 and ground.

 

I don't think your PCB would have needed -5V but there is another way to double check the PCB:-

 

Look for the large electrolytic capacitors. These are usually used to filter noise and hum from the power supply rails. They have a + lead and a - lead

 

for a positive supply rail (e.g. +5V or +12V ) the - pin of the capacitor would go to ground and the + pin of the capacitor would connect to the + voltage.

 

If there is a negative supply (i.e. -5V) a capacitor would have its + pin connected to ground and the - pin would connect to the negative supply voltage.

 

- Obviously it would be preferable to find the correct documentation for your exact model or compare yours to another unit which is identical but if that isn't possible hopefully the above method will be helpful.

 

Regards, John

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I now have power to the main PCB and unfortunately no output to the monitor.

 

I have checked all of the resistors and capacitors and found one resistor that looks to need replacement and one capacitor that has a broken leg. The capacitor is a greencap with the marking "0.1 50WV" whic I assume mean "0.1uf 50V". Not knowing alot about capacitors and the different types, I am looking for input as to what type of cap I should replace it with?

 

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There also seems to be a spot on the board where a component looks to have been removed at some point (see attached photo). I suspect it is another capacitor...

 

 

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On JBTech's suggestion I have ordered a logic probe to start checking for activity at the chips.

 

Without a schematic this is quite a puzzle.

 

Any input gratefully received.wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==​​​

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Caps are Ceramic type, a dime a dozen, The Xtal is for a crystal so that's important & it's not a cap. If it's used you'll need to find out the fequencey eg, 4.7654mhz this is just an example don't look for this example. It's used to time the clock pulse on the i.c.
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Caps are Ceramic type, a dime a dozen, The Xtal is for a crystal so that's important & it's not a cap. If it's used you'll need to find out the fequencey eg, 4.7654mhz this is just an example don't look for this example. It's used to time the clock pulse on the i.c.

 

The wheels board which I believe is very similar uses a 4.75MHz as best I can see. I also saw @taito post where he was looking for one for his game which used a 14.314MHz crystal

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/a...for-speed-race

 

It looks like these are really not available any more so my repair activities are at a stand still :-(

 

Extract from the Wheels schematic:

981744223_ScreenShot2021-06-15at3_12_39pm.png.760a07baa9689e26579fd4124b0dddf9.png

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