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Sega Universal Upright conversion


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Some may have seen the Gumtree add for this cab that's been around for some time.

 

I ended up paying the seller 150 instead of the 350 it was listed for so after a 150km round trip and I've got my newest project!

 

The day started with a trip to bunnings to hire the ute..

 

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A crap load of tolls and extending the trip by 30 mins due to a wrong turn in the city... I finally got it on the back of the ute!

 

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Have to give mad props to the seller who helped me get it on the ute, it would've been quite challenging by myself as this is HEAVY AF! Heavier than the astro that's for sure!

 

After getting home and completing the initial analysis, it's safe to say she's pretty banged up :)

 

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Have no idea if it works (and won't know for a while as it has been outside and it's leaking water [emoji50][emoji50][emoji50]).

 

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Unfortunately, there wasn't a Naomi inside. It looks like a Konami Python system 16 with pro evolution soccer (according to the tag)

 

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Audio board looks pretty corroded

 

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As does the sega i/o?

 

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Found a few of these whilst trying to strip :)

 

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Never worked on a Sega universal before it took me a little while to figure out how to remove the backing so I could find where the water was leaking from.

 

After a good 20 or so mins, I finally got the back off only to find EXACTLY the same tubes I have on my current astro cities and my spare 29 inch (I didn't realise they were 31khz compatible?)

 

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Found the wet patch!

 

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The Nanao MS-2932-S chassis

 

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The plan is to chop this down to make it a sit down but I have no idea how I will be doing that, I think I'm way out of my depth in capability.

 

The good:

 

- got it for 150

- no cracks on the cp

- no major damage

- I now have a Sega universal - I might do repro art from a new net city :)

 

The bad:

 

- no marquee :(

- rust on a big part of the base

- cp is 4 button layout and the start section had been increased from 24mm to 30mm! Who does that!?

- nfi if the chassis works - I'm not really too worried about anything else as I will probably just end up using a DC for this cab

- I've never worked on a Sega universal so there's a lot of learning to do (but that's part and parcel)

- will be filling, sanding, wet sanding and everything you can think of

- no dedicated work space to do all of this - was doing it on my drive away

 

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Ended the day pretty much a big chunk of the cab stripped and ready to be thoroughly cleaned!

 

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My biggest worry is how the hell I'm going to do the upright to sit down conversion.. I think I'm waaaaaay out of my depth here..

 

Need to obviously chop the coin chute, I just don't trust my cutting abilities :)

 

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Looking at th other stand, it appear there may be holes already but I'm not really sure what that's for.

 

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If any one has any recommendations (especially on Australia) about what body filler, paint primer and paint to use that'd be great!

 

 

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Just go to super cheap and buy a small tin of body filler, then prime with the SCA branded primer filler in a can, its way better than the septone crap they sell.

 

Have had some really good results with the dulux epoxy paint from bunnings

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-300g-high-gloss-white-epoxy-enamel-spray-paint_p1400820

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Just go to super cheap and buy a small tin of body filler, then prime with the SCA branded primer filler in a can, its way better than the septone crap they sell.

 

Have had some really good results with the dulux epoxy paint from bunnings

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-300g-high-gloss-white-epoxy-enamel-spray-paint_p1400820

 

Thanks.. Might pop into super cheap tomorrow..

 

Body filler is just for the plastic or can I use the same filler for the metal bits?? I'm an absolute n00b with filler and painting

 

I'll be getting that drill bit that looks like steel wool to get rid of the paint and rust..

 

Nice pick up @mR_CaESaR..TOOK my advise.I remember i got bagged about this cabinet because it was a piece of shit.Definately a ms2932 monitor.;)

https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/97847-Cheap-candy

 

Nah not cos of that thread.. I've been keeping my eye on this for sale post since Con put it up... I just didn't want to pay 350 that he was asking... I offered 150 the other day and he said yes.. So for me it was a no brainier.. I just hope I don't screw up chopping it down.

 

If the chassis doesn't work, it's no biggie, I've got a spare MS9 and tube so I'll just end up with another 15khz setup

 

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Thanks.. Might pop into super cheap tomorrow..

 

Body filler is just for the plastic or can I use the same filler for the metal bits?? I'm an absolute n00b with filler and painting

 

I'll be getting that drill bit that looks like steel wool to get rid of the paint and rust..

 

 

 

Nah not cos of that thread.. I've been keeping my eye on this for sale post since Con put it up... I just didn't want to pay 350 that he was asking... I offered 150 the other day and he said yes.. So for me it was a no brainier.. I just hope I don't screw up chopping it down.

 

If the chassis doesn't work, it's no biggie, I've got a spare MS9 and tube so I'll just end up with another 15khz setup

 

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If you need any parts for it..let me know;):lol

My advise get the chassis repaired if you going to put a DC console..Better picture quality which i have in one of mine.:DMs9-29s is good monitor for arcade boards but MS2932 is better for Dc set up.

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Looks like you could cut the main upright posts shorter to make it a sitdown if that is what you desire. Problem may be the balance though as the monitor may come slightly forward doing such a mod. May need to alter the placing of the weights in the base to counter act the monitor coming forward.
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Thanks.. Might pop into super cheap tomorrow..

 

Body filler is just for the plastic or can I use the same filler for the metal bits??

 

You can do both, give the area a good sand with some rough paper so the filler gets a good bite into the area.

and if your new to body filler

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I am unhappy to report that the chassis doesn't work! :(

 

It's got a collapse and like a crows feet on the left hand side.. I'm not really sure of that means the tube is dead too.

 

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I took the gamble and unfortunately it has not paid off :(

 

I'm still keen on a 31khz setup but tubes and chassis don't come up too often.

 

I'll keep cleaning and the see what my options are - i might go down the path of downscaling 480p to 240p with the Universal Video Encoder..

 

So I've just focused on getting this unit cleaned up..

 

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Whoever does this to Japanese panels should be shot! This is crazy! And to add, they made the 24mm holes into 30mm I'm assuming

 

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A nice filthy panel - pretty much the same on all candies I've purchased

 

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Testing to see if I can somewhat get the original colour back on the plastic with the retrobrite process - it's looking somewhat promosing

 

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After an hour of sunlight..

 

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The likelihood of that chassis ever working was basically nil. I imagine there would be some very severe track rot due to the exposure to water and weather.

 

Has Joey got back to you? It's an ms-2932 which he can work on, but it will cost you a very pretty penny. Joey has said that they are one of the most difficult chassis to repair.

 

I just sent Joey a Sanwa chasiss where the track rot was too bad to repair. I imagine your one would be much the same.

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The likelihood of that chassis ever working was basically nil. I imagine there would be some very severe track rot due to the exposure to water and weather.

 

Has Joey got back to you? It's an ms-2932 which he can work on, but it will cost you a very pretty penny. Joey has said that they are one of the most difficult chassis to repair.

 

I just sent Joey a Sanwa chasiss where the track rot was too bad to repair. I imagine your one would be much the same.

 

You never know - I was trying to be positive/optimistic (probably too optimistic :))

 

I did hear back from Joey and he said 31khz chassis are a no go..

 

I'm hoping he's got a spare chassis as I really want to keep this as a 31khz setup.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but would anyone know if I can just get any other 31khz chassis and work for the tube? Or do they need to be paired up accordingly?

 

 

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No, the tube will be specifically paired to the chassis. I know a guy in Brissie who has some 2931s stashed, he may sell one, not sure. If you're interested, PM me and I'll shoot you his details. However, you'd have to factor freight costs in also.

 

The 2931 is not VGA only like the 2932, it is auto-syncing tri-res 15khz-31khz.

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Well the retrobrite process definitely brought the original colour back!

 

Bezel after a clean...

 

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Bezel after about 4 hours worth of UV.

 

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Whilst it looks pretty good, I'll still end up painting it so I can patch a few holes/dents

 

I attempted to wire wheel one of the rust damaged doors..

 

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After a good hour or so of wire wheeling, the front now has all the paint and rust removed!

 

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I found something that works! Albeit only one speaker.. So a quick change of a speaker and the sound appears to be perfect! The volume knob works too!

 

 

Hopefully the next few days, I'll completely strip the cab to start the cutting of the legs this weekend.

 

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If you take the parts to a powder coating place they will sandblast and coat it for a lot less than it will take you to repair it , just my 2 cents
How much do you think it'd cost?

 

What paint do they use? I'd actually be keen on that.

 

I just want to make sure they use the same colour as what I would be using for the bezel.

 

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I just had a base for a jap driving cab done 8 pieces was $170 , as for colour Iam sure that won't be problem , I think powder coat is a lot more durable than paint ,

 

Cool. I might get a quote and see how much it'd cost. If it's under 200, I'm perfectly fine with that. The time and effort and the cost of primer, paint, it'd probably cost more :)

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