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  • #16
    OK some questions coming from the spray painter within.

    Using primer / filler. really no need to use a separate filler after wads, can use the primer / filler again.

    IT may have changed since my apprentice days, but if you do use a separate filler it was always had to be primed over the top again, ie. don't paint directly over filler. Thus using primer filler in the one product, no need for this.

    Also, unless using 2 pac primer / filler. I'd let if dry for at least a week, this makes sure the solvents are out and allows for sinkage to occur. Seen plenty of paint jobs done where you can see sink back because of this in the final paint job

    Also I'd sand about at least 150 or 240 grit over the 80 grit, before the primer filler, most likley find no need for 2nd application of the primer / filler.

    With your painting, are you talking enamel or arcrylic?
    Could be me, but I'm a bit pandentic for this.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Savage View Post
      OK some questions coming from the spray painter within.

      Using primer / filler. really no need to use a separate filler after wads, can use the primer / filler again.

      IT may have changed since my apprentice days, but if you do use a separate filler it was always had to be primed over the top again, ie. don't paint directly over filler. Thus using primer filler in the one product, no need for this.

      Also, unless using 2 pac primer / filler. I'd let if dry for at least a week, this makes sure the solvents are out and allows for sinkage to occur. Seen plenty of paint jobs done where you can see sink back because of this in the final paint job

      Also I'd sand about at least 150 or 240 grit over the 80 grit, before the primer filler, most likley find no need for 2nd application of the primer / filler.

      With your painting, are you talking enamel or arcrylic?
      Could be me, but I'm a bit pandentic for this.
      No, you are correct mate. You need waiting time for sink backs unless you are very confident in your workmanship.

      I agree again. I wouldn't go near any MDF/particle board with 80grit and infact I don't sand it at all before the first prime. Then I do the filling and then build up from there and my final pre-top coat sand is done with 400 and then an 800 grit. Only then will I top coat if I am happy.

      If using a single paint system I like to rub it down with some 1200 and then buff to get the shine rather than relying on the gun/can. 2 pot has a shine from the gun.

      Here are some pics of satin paint on the Gauntlet cabinet.





      Call me pedantic also, but it is the Hot Rodder in me.

      Comment


      • #18
        great thread! i know crap all about painting other than I generally get covered in it the moment i take a lid off a can. thanks for the tips.

        Comment


        • #19
          Nice Spacies
          "He who laughs when things go wrong ... has just thought of someone they can blame it on!"

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by mwren View Post
            Definitely watching this series.

            Question about removing a used monitor from it's case, in so far as I have always thought that this is a definite no-no because monitors can hold electricity even when unplugged.
            Isn't there a danger of electrocution if you are not a professional?

            Also, with the spraypainting, and especially a final gloss coat, best that the temperature is not too cold and/or that you get some residual warmth into article being painted for best results.

            Look forward to the series,
            Thanks, Michael

            monitors can and do store electricity when unplugged

            the screen is basically a large capacitor and that is where the majority of the electrical charge is stored

            when removing the plastic case, common sense prevails. trust me, its a piece of cake to do

            easiest way to do it is place the screen face down on a table with a towel on the table so you dont scratch the front of the tube

            next, remove every screw in sight

            next arm yourself with a large flat blade screw driver cos your going to need it as a pry bar and split the case

            generally the case splits just back from the front of the tube, you will see the join easily

            remove the back of the case

            to get the front off, there is usally no more then 4 screws that attach the front plastic to the tube

            there is absolutely no reason at all for you to touch any of the electrical circuits inside the macihne

            if you go poking and proding stuff u know nothing about your asking for trouble

            use your brains, dont touch the circuit boards, you have no need to any how

            have i made it clear enough for all?? i hope so

            dont touch any electrical circuit boards

            trust me it can be done easily and safely and with out touching circuit boards

            hope fully i have drummed it in to you all

            if not, re-read my post untill you get the general feel of this post

            dont touch any electrical circiut boards
            rc forums looking for cabinet pc atx power supply for 12/5 volt for mame cabinet and turn it on
            if your new to electronics and

            Comment


            • #21
              Thank you @_Z for clearing that up for me.
              I have been looking through the forums and seen where quite a few people have removed the plastic cases before installing monitors. I see tho that that is ALL that they have done.
              Just the plastic.

              Mick

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by mwren View Post
                Thank you @_Z for clearing that up for me.
                I have been looking through the forums and seen where quite a few people have removed the plastic cases before installing monitors. I see tho that that is ALL that they have done.
                Just the plastic.

                Mick
                no worries Mick, trust me mate, it aint tough

                but hey look if your not confident enough to do it, just buy me a return airfare to where ever on the planet you live and i will come do it for ya!
                rc forums looking for cabinet pc atx power supply for 12/5 volt for mame cabinet and turn it on
                if your new to electronics and

                Comment


                • #23
                  NEAT Wiring in a CAB

                  Week 2 How to do neat wiring in a Cab
                  Last edited by dezbaz; 25th July 2009, 06:33 AM.
                  Regards

                  Dez

                  DSB Electrical
                  DSB Electrical Facebook
                  VAPS
                  Vector Monitor Repro Parts
                  Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

                  Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Things needed

                    clips
                    cable ties
                    connectors
                    wire
                    soldering iron
                    tape
                    heat shrink
                    Stickybacks

                    The secret of neat cabling is getting the wires to the correct length


                    Don't try to cut corners if the wires don't reach

                    In Aircraft maintenance we were told roll (ie twist) a wiring loom around a hinge rather than fold it, as the strands break in time otherwise.



                    A nice rolling loop is better than a kink.


                    Cable clips are only usable if you shorten the nails, or they will go through the side of the panel.

                    I DONT usually loom 240 Volt wires with Low voltage. I am referring to the 240 volt for the monitor etc.

                    Avoid using metal clips as it will rub through in time unless the loom has double insulation


                    Cable ties can be applied loosely at first to get the distances right till the basic shape is there

                    Joiners can be used (red inline) if needed, or just solder join and heat shrink the join. (IE: to get the exact right length)

                    Another easier way is to do a loop (See in the above pics)

                    It doesn't hurt to be a bit practical if time is scarce, most people are probably "time poor" I guess.


                    Next week I will go into the 240 Volt wiring neatly and safely.

                    I do ask that you please wait till then before discussing next weeks topic

                    Any questions please ask, and I am sure others will provide useful help on this topic too.

                    Thanks to all who replied last week
                    Last edited by dezbaz; 21st September 2009, 12:28 PM.
                    Regards

                    Dez

                    DSB Electrical
                    DSB Electrical Facebook
                    VAPS
                    Vector Monitor Repro Parts
                    Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

                    Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Good job D....
                      sigpic

                      For all your promotional requirements at guaranteed low prices ....
                      CUSTOM MADE PHONE COVERS, STUBBY COOLERS, KEYRINGS,
                      LANYARDS, WRISTBANDS plus MUCH, MUCH MORE !!!!!!

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                      • #26
                        a small tip for holding the wiring loom in place

                        if you go to somewhere like haymans or the likes you can buy some small square sticky backed device to attach cable ties to.
                        they come in a 100 pack and are about $30 per pack

                        the back of the device is sticky so it will hold to any surface and in the centre you can if you wish place a screw to hold it to the surface.
                        there is 4 small raised holes to attach zip ties too.
                        stick one of these do-dads to a surface and then put a zip tie from the wiring loom and attach to the do-dad and keep the wiring loom from floating free
                        rc forums looking for cabinet pc atx power supply for 12/5 volt for mame cabinet and turn it on
                        if your new to electronics and

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Nice work
                          "He who laughs when things go wrong ... has just thought of someone they can blame it on!"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Debs View Post
                            Things needed

                            clips
                            cable ties
                            connectors
                            wire
                            soldering iron
                            tape
                            heat shrink

                            The secret of neat cabling is getting the wires to the correct length


                            Don't try to cut corners if the wires don't reach

                            In Aircraft maintenance we were told roll (IE twist) a wiring loom around a hinge rather than fold it, as the strands break in time otherwise.

                            A nice rolling loop is better than a kink.


                            Cable clips are only usable if you shorten the nails, or they will go through the side of the panel.

                            I DINT usually loom 240 Volt wires with Low voltage. I am referring to the 240 volt for the monitor etc.

                            Avoid using metal clips as it will rub through in time unless the loom has double insulation


                            Cable ties can be applied loosely at first to get the distances right till the basic shape is there

                            Joiners can be used (red aniline) if needed, or just solder join and heat shrink the join. (IE: to get the exact right length)

                            Another easier way is to do a loop (See in the above pics)

                            It doesn't hurt to be a bit practical if time is scarce, most people are probably "time poor" I guess.


                            Next week I will go into the 240 Volt wiring neatly and safely.

                            I do ask that you please wait till then before discussing next weeks topic

                            Any questions please ask, and I am sure others will provide useful help on this topic too.

                            Thanks to all who replied last week
                            Awesome threads here dezbaz , thanks for putting in the time and the know how.
                            Adds a different dimension to the forum .
                            Keep up the good work
                            Maybe Mods can slot these somewhere

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by @lien_Zed View Post
                              a small tip for holding the wiring loom in place

                              if you go to somewhere like haymans or the likes you can buy some small square sticky backed device to attach cable ties to.
                              they come in a 100 pack and are about $30 per pack

                              the back of the device is sticky so it will hold to any surface and in the centre you can if you wish place a screw to hold it to the surface.
                              there is 4 small raised holes to attach zip ties too.
                              stick one of these do-dads to a surface and then put a zip tie from the wiring loom and attach to the do-dad and keep the wiring loom from floating free
                              The only problem with sticky backs is that they usually fall off over time. I would use a small screw in the middle to make sure they won't come off.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Stickybacks here (Thanks @lien_Z for the info)


                                It should be noted, check the length of the screws to make sure no disaster occurs by pinning through a finished laminate or painted surface

                                Maybe source a few different sizes and lengths of screw, and use the correct one for the purpose.

                                Bunnings sell 12mm x 10Guage, 12mmx 8 Guage, 16mm x 10 and 8.

                                The tiny guage (4 or 6G) x 10mm or 12 mm are the ones needed here, so the head of the screw doesnt get in the way of the cable ties going through

                                The ones below are great for attaching to 16mm panels as they are 12mm and have a needle point, so you dont need a cordless screwdriver



                                DONT USE THESE BELOW, as they are 20mm (Measured from the flat of the head) as they will even go through 19mm panels and destoy you masterpiece



                                There is probably a need for another discussion on this, one week . . .
                                Regards

                                Dez

                                DSB Electrical
                                DSB Electrical Facebook
                                VAPS
                                Vector Monitor Repro Parts
                                Amazing Arcading Facebook Page

                                Another AA Visitor. Stay a while, stay FOREVER!

                                Comment

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