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Scratch Built Aussie Coctail Cab

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Discussion on building MAME cabinets.

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  • #16
    nice work! although two things to look at.
    1. the plug pack may overheat with its current mounting tucked into a corner on three sides
    2. if the plug pack is mounted next to the door opening, then the exposed part of the pins need to fully insulated or that area covered for safety. think kids.
    HookedOnDefender,TimePilot,CrushRoller,1942,Pacman [original ghost in the machine!] VIDS: DefenceCmnd, Defender(2),Stargate(2),Joust,Joust2,MoonPatrol,Ph oenix,PolePositionII, Pacman, MsPacman, DKJr, MarioBros, LunarRescue,SegaTurbo,FujiSpeedRace PINS: Gottlieb Gladiators WANTED: Robotron, Sinistar, Maketrax, Timepilot & Defender Pinball! SOLD:Qix,Qbert TRADED:Gorf

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    • #17
      Originally posted by andykmv View Post
      nice work! although two things to look at.
      1. the plug pack may overheat with its current mounting tucked into a corner on three sides
      2. if the plug pack is mounted next to the door opening, then the exposed part of the pins need to fully insulated or that area covered for safety. think kids.
      Thanks for the feedback Andy. I'm happy enough with the electrical insulation of the plug pack - it's a bit hard to see in the pics but there are insulation sleeves over the slide on terminals where they fit the plug pack. Also the idea is that no one needs to be or will be in that section of the cabinet except for service work - that was my motivation for making the coin box accessible from the front through the hinged flap.

      The heat will be one to watch. It is 12V at 0.5A and a switch mode power supply, so an efficiency of say 95% so will have less that 1W to dissipate. Not the best arrangement with the back hard against the wood, I guess I could rotate the plug back so the back is up. I'll do a few finger tests to monitor, so thanks for bringing it up. The feedback is appreciated.

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      • #18
        That plug pack is the main concern here, besides that keep up the good work, I personally would grab a power point and stand off bracket like used on solid brick walls and then plug the power pack into that, much safer,neater etc
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Originally posted by dungbeetle46 View Post
          That plug pack is the main concern here, besides that keep up the good work, I personally would grab a power point and stand off bracket like used on solid brick walls and then plug the power pack into that, much safer,neater etc
          I looked at stuff like this and there are smaller versions of mounting blocks - things that are used in roof spaces of commercial buildings where fluro light fitting are typically plugged in for fast installation. Space is really at a premium in my cab - speakers are yet to go in.

          The steps I took are to solidly mount the plug back - it aint going anywhere with that strap and to insulate the terminals. It doesn't show that well in the pictures but the insulation rating on the terminal cover sleeves is equal to the rating of the wire insulation. The plug pack also has half the length of the pins that go into the power point insulated and finally I closed up the slide on terminals with pliers so they aren't coming off.

          It's maybe not ideal and could be improved but I'm happy

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          • #20
            A few more pictures, this time showing the pc mount arrangement. I hacked apart an old pc case with a hacksaw, angle grinder and file and mounted this to the side of the cab. This was part of my desire to have it all modular so I could stick in a new motherboard if needed. I thought it would be neat to have what is effectively the rear of the pc case accessible from the top of the cabinet with the lid raised and the kb + monitor cable feed back down the hole on the left in the second pic. The smaller hole on the right allows the little cables for power + hdd leds + the pc reset button. Having done all the work, and it was a fair bit of mucking around, I'm not really sure it's worth it - the mounting is solid and upgradeable and has a spot to mount a fan, but would probably be ok just by screwing the pc bits to the box rather than using the frame, but I guess it looks relatively neat.

            The hard disk is tucked away below the motherboard and is held place with a metal clip, seen in the last picture.

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            • #21
              just athougtht here. you say your speaker amp plug uses 12v .5amp.

              your pc power supply has some spare HDD/FDD connectors with 12v & ground already. remove the plugpack, make up a joiner and run the speakers off the pc power supply. safety problem or perception is removed completely, and saves some space for you!
              HookedOnDefender,TimePilot,CrushRoller,1942,Pacman [original ghost in the machine!] VIDS: DefenceCmnd, Defender(2),Stargate(2),Joust,Joust2,MoonPatrol,Ph oenix,PolePositionII, Pacman, MsPacman, DKJr, MarioBros, LunarRescue,SegaTurbo,FujiSpeedRace PINS: Gottlieb Gladiators WANTED: Robotron, Sinistar, Maketrax, Timepilot & Defender Pinball! SOLD:Qix,Qbert TRADED:Gorf

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              • #22
                Originally posted by andykmv View Post
                just athougtht here. you say your speaker amp plug uses 12v .5amp.

                your pc power supply has some spare HDD/FDD connectors with 12v & ground already. remove the plugpack, make up a joiner and run the speakers off the pc power supply. safety problem or perception is removed completely, and saves some space for you!
                Thanks Andy, that's a very neat elegant idea

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by andykmv View Post
                  just athougtht here. you say your speaker amp plug uses 12v .5amp.

                  your pc power supply has some spare HDD/FDD connectors with 12v & ground already. remove the plugpack, make up a joiner and run the speakers off the pc power supply. safety problem or perception is removed completely, and saves some space for you!
                  The only problem with this is feedback.

                  test before installing as you may find the speakers will get feedback from motherboard and will hiss, not sure why but they often do.
                  cheers

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                  • #24
                    You have a Slot 1 CPU and Mainboard still working... WOW!
                    The Pinny Parlour likes this post.

                    The Pinny Parlour Welcomes you to Aussie Arcade.

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                    • #25
                      Nice effort so far and it's great to see a scratch built LAI/Taito style cocktail.

                      May I ask that if you are concerned about heat, how many (if any) fans are you installing? 4 x 75mm fans would be great and if you are wise in where they are located you'll get some serious airflow happening.

                      Regardless of what you do there will be a bit of heat buildup, but obviously fans will help to reduce that somewhat.

                      Cheers,
                      Chris
                      www.ozstick.com.au

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by The Pinny Parlour View Post
                        You have a Slot 1 CPU and Mainboard still working... WOW!
                        Not strictly! I have since changed it. When I was mucking around with front ends I was having all sorts of problems achieving what I wanted. This setup was an old pc running W98 and Game Launcher as a front end, which gave me lots of features I liked. I've also cheated a bit with different pictures, look closely at one of the others and it shows a different pc fitted - the cutout to get to the panel is much bigger.

                        ---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

                        Originally posted by OzStick View Post
                        Nice effort so far and it's great to see a scratch built LAI/Taito style cocktail.

                        May I ask that if you are concerned about heat, how many (if any) fans are you installing? 4 x 75mm fans would be great and if you are wise in where they are located you'll get some serious airflow happening.

                        Regardless of what you do there will be a bit of heat buildup, but obviously fans will help to reduce that somewhat.

                        Cheers,
                        Chris
                        Fan wise I've got the one in the psu that draws in and another 75 mm hacked from a psu that blows right up the guts of the monitor, these both draw from outside. I also have one which blows across the cpu and finally, after one monitor failed which I suspect was down to heat after leaving the cab on for many hours I now run the monitor to shut down after a shortish time.

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                        • #27
                          Here's some pics of the speakers going in. This was a logictech setup. I mounted the woofer pointing down out the bottom of the cab. The mounting is a bit agricultural, due to the unusual shape - just some brackets with cable ties. I ripped the volume control out of it and extended the wiring to be adjustable from the P1 side, this seems nicer than software to me. Finally the tweeters are mounted in the cabinet ends. The little circuit boards are blue leds which I just cable tied out of the way - too new school to use on this cab for me.

                          I also cut a reset button out of a pc case and kept the hdd power leds to be accessible from the P1 side. It's painted black to blend in and despite the rough paint job it blends in ok.

                          The keyboard controller is an iPac and it's mounted under the shelf surface.

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                          • #28
                            On the plug pack question, I also have one just sitting in a corner. It's lasted 6 years or so now and has never looked like it was going to overheat. Mind you, it only powers a small speaker set...
                            Danny Galaga- the man with no signature...

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                            • #29
                              With all the electricals and fitting of bits sorted out I stripped everything out and painted the cab. Filled all the screw heads, holes and gouges then primed with an mdf primer and finally painted using a brush in semi gloss black enamel. This is a heart warming step to see it looking close to finished.

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                              • #30
                                Some pictures showing the side panel. I wanted to be able to completely remove the panel for clear access. This ruled out hinges so I screwed the bits of pine you can see in the pictures on the inside of the removable panel. To install the panel it slots up and then swings in and clips into the ball bearing clips. The long bit of wood along the bottom supports the weight of the panel. The clips are pretty strong so I routed some finger grooves in the base of the cabinet.

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