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System 16/18 Suicude battery replacement.

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  • System 16/18 Suicude battery replacement.

    Just for the hell of it I'm going to document and have a go at replacing some of these batteries.
    Only 4 of my games have the battery, Golden Axe, Eswat, Alien Storm and Moonwalker.
    Took all my boards out today and tested them, all still working great which is amazing considering how old the batteries are in these things.

    Heres a few close up pics of whats under the hood on the FD1094 CPU.
    As you can see from the first pic they tried to be sneaky and sticky taped a wire to the top of the "lid" so if you rip the top off you'll rip the wire off the battery and suicide the game.
    I've cut that wire off and you can see a clear shot of the battery from both sides.
    Battery is a Maxell CR2032, I see you can get replacements but haven't found any with the tabs yet.
    Anybody know where you can get them?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    What did you decide to use for a power supply while you are replacing the battery

    Comment


    • #3
      I haven't done it yet mate I'm just going to document as I go. need to find the batteries with those tabs first, theres heaps on ebay and real cheap just no tabs. I wonder if its safe to solder on top of these things?
      What I'll do is make up some jumpers with another battery and clip it on to the wires in the cpu to keep the power going while I desolder the old one and replace it.

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      • #4
        Jaycar have 3v lithium batteries with tangs on themhttp://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...=&SUBCATID=430

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        • #5
          Excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that if the battery dies or is taken out then the board is dead, forever, even if you put a new battery in?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by elkor-alish View Post
            Excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that if the battery dies or is taken out then the board is dead, forever, even if you put a new battery in?
            Yes thats correct but some can be resurrected with a new CPU and unencryted roms,check it out here
            http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.htm

            Comment


            • #7
              heh, good ole' jaycar... 1 part number, but 3 different 'types' in the picture. All of them will work fine, not too sure about your chances of getting the metal lid back on with any of them though...

              As for the suicide wire, I dunno, it looks more like a ground connection for the metal lid (to make it a sheild) rather than a suicide tripwire - but it may have been a 'bonus' feature...

              Soldering directly to a cr2032 is a no-no... AFAIK they rarely explode, but the heat will melt the frail plastic seals and the battery will leak/die/suck...

              You could also use a battery socket, like on a PC motherboard...

              Oh another cheaper one is: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB2522

              BTW: the battery numbers tell you their size:

              2032 = 20mm diameter, 3.2 mm thick
              2430 = 24mm diamerer, 3.0 mm thick
              etc
              etc

              all single cell lithium batteries (non-rechargeable) are 3v

              Cheers

              Originally posted by GIBO View Post
              Yes thats correct but some can be resurrected with a new CPU and unencryted roms,check it out here
              http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.htm
              need to add an l to the end of that web page:

              http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.html


              Cheers
              Last edited by askjacob; 25th March 2008, 05:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

              Comment


              • #8
                Heres a better site, better news on it.

                http://www.segaresurrection.com/

                Virtually all the sega suicide variants can be resurected with their kits. The contain a normal 68K CPU and a couple of ROMS.
                Sic transit gloria Atari!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by askjacob View Post
                  heh, good ole' jaycar... 1 part number, but 3 different 'types' in the picture. All of them will work fine, not too sure about your chances of getting the metal lid back on with any of them though...

                  As for the suicide wire, I dunno, it looks more like a ground connection for the metal lid (to make it a sheild) rather than a suicide tripwire - but it may have been a 'bonus' feature...

                  Soldering directly to a cr2032 is a no-no... AFAIK they rarely explode, but the heat will melt the frail plastic seals and the battery will leak/die/suck...

                  You could also use a battery socket, like on a PC motherboard...

                  Oh another cheaper one is: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB2522

                  BTW: the battery numbers tell you their size:

                  2032 = 20mm diameter, 3.2 mm thick
                  2430 = 24mm diamerer, 3.0 mm thick
                  etc
                  etc

                  all single cell lithium batteries (non-rechargeable) are 3v

                  Cheers



                  need to add an l to the end of that web page:

                  http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.html


                  Cheers
                  Interesting thanks for your input. I don't think the wire is a ground personally, I don't see how having a ground to the lid is necessary considering the rest of the CPU is in a chunk of epoxy.

                  I thought about some sort of remote battery holder but I worry that it could get knocked around on the outside.

                  Originally posted by Womble View Post
                  Heres a better site, better news on it.

                  http://www.segaresurrection.com/

                  Virtually all the sega suicide variants can be resurected with their kits. The contain a normal 68K CPU and a couple of ROMS.
                  Yeah good on him for his work but I'd like to keep it original for as long as possible. I have plenty of spare CPUs and roms so I'd only need the file and $40 per game is a bit rich for me. Desuiciding is a much cheaper option and the system 16 hardware is very reliable.
                  A lot of those games are almost 20 years old so thats pretty impressive battry life compared to the CPS2 crap.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Arcade King View Post
                    Interesting thanks for your input. I don't think the wire is a ground personally, I don't see how having a ground to the lid is necessary considering the rest of the CPU is in a chunk of epoxy.

                    I thought about some sort of remote battery holder but I worry that it could get knocked around on the outside.
                    The ground wire is basically there to stop the FD1094 being damaged by static when it's being handled and to reduce the affect of it being an aerial.

                    Unlike the CPS2 equivalent, Hitachi decided not to include a reasonable capacitor in parallel with the battery, hence the moment you remove power the contents of the internal ram goes poof..

                    To replace the battery with a new one, you need two batteries. One as the replacement and one which you wire in parallel with the old one as a temporary power supply.

                    Important.. Make sure the cpu/board is NOT plugged into your jamma cab/test rig,etc else your grounded soldering iron will sort the battery if you touch the + wire.

                    The process goes..

                    1) Remove the cover a little bit so you can remove the ground wire that is taped to the cover with metal tape. (see pics above )
                    2) Solder two wires to the 'helper' battery. (I suggest using different coloured wire)
                    3) Solder the positive wire from the helper battery to the positive wire on the FD1094 as near to the case as possible. This is so when you remove the wires from the battery there is no change of you accidently desoldering the helper batteries wire.
                    4) Repeat for the negative wire.
                    5) Optionally check the voltages going into the FD1094 are correct.
                    6) Desolder the old battery taking care not to sort the wires.
                    7) Solder the positive and negative wires to the new battery.
                    8) Desolder the wires from the helper battery. Check that the voltages are correct.
                    9) Put cover back on. Usually there is enough stickyness to keep the cover on.

                    I've successfully used batteries with 3 tabs that stand vertically by fitting it inside the fd1094 upside down.

                    Originally posted by Arcade King View Post
                    Yeah good on him for his work but I'd like to keep it original for as long as possible.
                    Thanks

                    If you want to have a really stressful time, try replacing the battery on a Galeco World Rally board.

                    Chris

                    [edit: I've been intending to add a 'how to' guide on my site with pics on how to replace the battery on suicide boards.]
                    Attached Files

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