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Hyper sports


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Alright package arrived my Hyper sports pcb Awesome

Hook it up turn in on

50867315_1089034794599822_454003280415031296_n.jpg50580470_292308581472304_8539324312291639296_n.jpgOh no!

my next step was to take a closer look at the 2 pcb boards there were a couple of little

scratches but i got the multi meter out and found all traces were ok

Then i think i may of spotted the culprit

50853157_347745629287846_1019980790643032064_n.jpg49913137_379601472843780_6292182437883543552_n.jpg

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First thing is always to measure the the 5v rail voltage at the board (not at the PSU), those big Konami boards are thirsty and can drag the 5V down enough to cause issues.

 

Second thing is to remove and reseat all the ribbon cables, and pull all the daughterboards out of their sockets and reseat those (with the power off obviously) - that can chase away a tonne of craziness due to bad connections.

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The daughterboards are usually stuffed into IC sockets, and can be very tightly stuck due to the number of pins involved. I'd check that they haven't been soldered in though.

 

Hard to tell with corrosion, it can be an issue, or it can look horrible but still work fine.

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So i unplugged the ribbon cables and put them back in the daughter boards seemed pretty tight so

i left them. Turned it on now just have a black screen.

I checked the power on the board where the edge connector goes and it was only 4.5 and 5.2 at the

power supply im using an adapter between my jamma harness and the board. I can see a spot on the

board just below the rail that says 5v should i jumper 5v to it or turn up the power supply?

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My original track and field has a pretty big drop (no adaptor, original harness). I run 5.3 at the supply to get 5 at the board. It's higher than I run any other game but has worked like that for a few years. I'm going to install a switcher with hypersports soon so I'll see how that effects it.
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The drop is related to losses in the wiring (wires too thin) and resistance at the contacts. Often this is due to using a modern eBay harnesss with an old board (they have hair thin power wires and are really only suitable for the modern XX in 1 boards that either draw next-to-no current, or required a PC power supply if they are beefier).

 

 

Basically 4.5 is too low if you are measuring at the edge connector, because you will get normal drops across the board set too. While you may have 4.5 at the edge connector, by the time you get to the remote areas of the board that will have sagged to 4.1 or lower. Most TTL is only reliable at 4.5v to 5.2v, so starting with an absolute max of 4.5 means you will be into the realms of thing-not-working from the outset.

 

Running Jumpers to the 5V test points on the board is a decent idea, but I would buzz through that it really does connect to the 5V rail before you hook it up.

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Alright so i attached a jumper cable and all i got was a black wavy screen i checked the voltage again

and it was still a little bit low so i turned it up a little bit and boom she came to life.

The graphics are a bit funny and dull though could it be that the game graphics roms are buggered?

[video=youtube_share;nv7kVo-dQ4A]

50928381_793887804302594_4236147620097032192_n.jpg50940253_412928922782804_5479603388876324864_n.jpg

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Heres a pic of a couple of rom chips theyre mitizibichi with the raised square window i read in another

post you said they ar prone to crapping out

50706009_290186058362109_1424132729250775040_n.jpg

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