xxxx in 1 problem - into test/service mode on boot

[Mr Pubstuff]

i know this is probably a no brainer for many of you guys, but i got an issue with a cab ive had for a while running a 48in1 with wiring running everywhere. all ive done is finish tidying up all the wiring, make some brackets for the test and service switches that mount on the inside of the door and mount the psu properly. i plugged the 48in1 board back in to make sure it wasnt a 60in1 board issue, but its now doing the same on both boards, so it isnt a board issue. prob as follows.

 

when everything is connected properly, it goes into service screen/test mode. when i disconnect the test and service wires from the switches ive mounted on the inside of the coin door, it boots fine. as soon as i plug either one in, off it goes into service/test mode. coin switch is fine to leave attached, as connected or disconnected makes no difference either way.

 

im not sure if somehow mounting the switches on the inside of the metal coin door is earthing something that should be (microswitches arent earthed internally when screws are passed thru im assuming), but its giving me the shits as i cant see why this is happening especially since the switches report as open correctly with the multimeter and in test mode they are working correctly, but as soon as i plug either or both connectors on, into test mode it boots.

 

pic attached of inside coin door (yes, service and test wires are disconnected to allow me to boot and play it).

 

http://www.pubstuff.com.au/arcade/DSC07408.JPG

Edited December 26, 2009 by Mr Pubstuff
duh to me

[GIBO]

looking at your pic the ground wire is connected to the N/C terminal of the microswitch,move it down one and connect the service wire to the top of the switch ,idealy these should be reversed but for the sake of argument this will do

[Mr Pubstuff]

hi gibo, i'll try that later, but im sure i had the ground wires connected in reverse in an earlier attempt to stop it going to test). thanks for the reply and hopefully that may do it :)

 

ps: what does N/C stand for or mean for the sake of us electro-illiterates?

[GIBO]

hi gibo, i'll try that later, but im sure i had the ground wires connected in reverse in an earlier attempt to stop it going to test). thanks for the reply and hopefully that may do it :)

 

ps: what does N/C stand for or mean for the sake of us electro-illiterates?

 

Normally closed

 

connect like this ,sorry for the grade 2 drawing but you get the idea

Edited December 27, 2009 by GIBO
Auto Merged Double Post.

[Homepin]

hi gibo, i'll try that later, but im sure i had the ground wires connected in reverse in an earlier attempt to stop it going to test). thanks for the reply and hopefully that may do it :)

 

ps: what does N/C stand for or mean for the sake of us electro-illiterates?

 

 

N/C = Normally Closed - or 'closed circuit' or connected to the Common

 

N/O = Normally Open - or 'open circuit' or not connected to anything

 

C = Common - this is the terminal that switches back and forth as you click between the N/C and N/O terminals

 

The terms above refer to the switch in the static mode IE - with the switch actuator NOT depresed

[Mr Pubstuff]

grade 2 drawings are great for grade 1 terminology dumdums! :lol

 

i think ive been connecting mine to the g and the one above t , but i cant work out how in test mode it all reports as ok, but i'll swap em over to the drawing and hope for the best, but it would seem this would make sense and solve the problem.

thank you for the info guys :D

[Mr Pubstuff]

sorry guys, i thought i had bought this thread up to date :redface

 

yes, this swap of wires indeed did work and the kids have been playing like there is no tomorrow (and there is now, as i was thinking of moving this cabinet on, but due to their extreme happiness playing the old classics, its staying certainly for now)

 

many thanks guys!